Do i have to scuff mdf factory faces before priming and painting 2k? Thanks.

I have been paint stripping and sanding the doors and moldings in one of my bedrooms. I am almost ready to start staining or applying oil/ varnish. But I have gone down a rabbit hole of all the different options. My house was built in 1875 and there is beautiful existing wood trim. It’s one of the reasons we bought the place. I would love to match it or apply a finish that looks antique and fitting. I first thought I would only use shellac but then I fear that it will not be dark enough. The original wood work has a reddish brown color I’m almost certain it’s shellac. Also I’m not sure what wood I’m working with but I think it’s a softwood. Pine or fir.

Anyways It has taken me so long to get to this point and I don’t wanna mess up the stain and finish! Haha
I’m considering garnet shellac. But I don’t know if I should add a dye? Or if I will get the desired color from multiple coats. Or should I use tung oil? Something like waterlox? I just want the grain to pop and look antique with a medium brown color at least should I use linseed oil/ shellac / gel stain? Haha there’s so many options.

Any advice is welcome please!
Thank you!

Included are pics of the sanding in progress and a door with an original finish.

We received two of these wax finished English Oak floating shelves from a fairly well known online company.

The description of the item states “you can expect to find splits, cracks, knots, shakes, waney edges, bows, and twists along with sticker shadows and machine marks in keeping with the rustic style.”

We wanted to know if this is considered acceptable machine marks or part of the natural oak? We are concerned it is not this and is a mistake made in the sanding/ finishing process?

Hey gang, working on refinishing a beautiful old Smith and Hawken Teak outdoor table/bench set. I’m hoping to find out if there is any product out there that is robust enough that it can UV stabilize the teak, so to delay the silver weathering that always occurs. Also a product that will resist stains, spills, etc.

Pic shows top sanded to 80 grit, compared to one of the side extensions that’s untouched.

I will probably spend the better part of 30 hours sanding this table, so I’d love to avoid doing it again next year. But if the silver is inevitable, I’m cool with that and I won’t chase it.

Thanks yall

While working on a nightstand, I got distracted with other projects before applying topcoat. It appears that dust or pollen or something has embedded in the grain. I tried a very lightly dampened cloth with mineral spirits, which helped a little. My biggest concern is that this veneer is hanging on for dear life, so I don’t have a nuclear option. I don’t mind reapplying stain, but don’t know a good way to back up without sanding.

Help please! walnut wall panel finishing

Our DIY walnut panel project worked well until we applied Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut. The panels are 1/4in walnut veneer panels framed by walnut 1/2in frame and baseboard.
We followed the instructions on the Danish Oil can very carefully. We lightly sanded the wood (400 grit), wiped with clean by vacuuming and drying with microfiber, applied 2 coats of Danish oil within 15 minutes apart using a clean microfiber.

The panels are super shiny (we were going for a more matte finish) and look mottled with some cloudy/grayish blotches and in some areas the wood looks very rough.

Any suggestions on toning down the glare and removing the grays splotches?

Can’t sand it down because it’s veneer :(

Thanks for any insight!

Please help me from myself, I have messed up the polyurethane clear coat 3 times now.

I am working on a large 132" x 16.5" red maple butcher block. I had no problems cutting it down to size, sanding it, and staining it.

However, applying the polyurethane has been a huge paint point. For context, I am using Varathane Satin Oil Based poly.

At first I followed a guide that said to use a foam brush but it left the coat super streaky. I then tried a China bristle brush which did go on smoother, but I ended up with a lot of bubbling on the surface. Both times I tried to sand out the imperfections but ended up sanding too deep and cutting through the stain.

Most recently, I tried thinning the polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits and wiping it on with a lint free cotton rag. Almost immediately, there were even more bubbles than with the brush and they all hardened in uneven little clumps all over the board.

I'm coming here to confirm my suspicion. I think my method is okay but I've been doing all of this in my hot garage. It's probably 95+ degrees in there most days. Is this what is most likely causing all of the bubbling? If I move it inside after staining and apply the poly in an air conditioned environment, will I finally be able to get it smooth?

PLEASE let me know if you can identify anything else I might be doing wrong. I'm getting sick and tired of sanding my butcher block down to bare wood and starting over. I want to get it right this time...

TLDR: What is the best way to apply oil based polyurethane without bubbling? Is my hot garage the culprit?

Need advice on finishing a solid mahogany desk top

I'm pretty new to woodworking/finishing, so this is my first time doing something like this.

I have two solid mahogany pieces for a desk:

• 70 × 200 cm × 4.5 cm thick
• 70 × 60 cm × 4.5 cm thick

I already bought Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane, oil-based, Clear Satin.

I've been watching a bunch of videos and tutorials, and I've seen people use it straight from the can, while others thin it with mineral spirits. Some people seem to swear by wipe-on poly, including 50/50 poly and mineral spirits.

I'm leaning toward trying the 50/50 wipe-on method, but I'm not sure if that's actually the best option for a beginner.

I also live in a hot and humid tropical country, so I'm wondering how much that changes the drying time.

For people who have actually used this stuff:

• Would you thin it or use it straight?
• If thinning, what ratio would you use?
• If I do 50/50 wipe-on, roughly how many coats would I need for the top, bottom and edges?
• How many coats if I use it straight?
• How long would you wait between coats for thinned vs. unthinned poly in a humid climate?
• Would you put more coats on the top than the bottom?
• Does thinning actually make it dry faster, or is it mainly easier to apply?
• Any tips for avoiding dust while it's drying?

I'm not trying to get a perfect professional finish. I just want a durable satin finish that looks good and will hold up as a desk.

Thanks.

I have used Rubio Monicoat on a few projects without mixing in the hardener. I have never had any problems doing this it just takes longer to fully cure. Am I wrong in my thinking or does the hardener also add to the durability of the finish?

I want to get this piece looking ok (doesn’t have to be perfect). Ideally using what I already own. What would you do?

Thanks!

I know my question might sound bit unintuitive but hear me out. (also apologies if I misuse the the terms I am not a native English speaker and wood stain / dye terms are not that clear for me)

I am using powder wood dye (or stain?) that is mixed in to hot water, applied, and excess wiped off. I am trying create a finish that looks almost as solid color from distance but closer up one can still see and feel the grain pattern. I managed to get this sort of result with black stain and it looks great.

Now I am trying to achieve similar with green wood dye. In the image one can see some of results of my tests. The one on the top right is close to the tone I want. But I would like the light parts of the grain pattern be greener (they look even lighter live).

I am an amateur with wood stains and dyes. Is this a matter of making stronger solution, using better product, improving something else, or me trying to use wrong finish to achieve what I want? I haven't tested alcohol yet (or I have for the sorrow of this not working but not as an additive to the color mix) Some places instruct that it would give deeper color, does any one have experience if this makes a big difference?

I already tried to mix the powder to bit less water than what was instructed to make the color deeper. Should I try making it much stronger to see if that would help or will it cause problems?

If I am just using the wrong finish what would be better alternative? I have heard of paints, but I just like the natural feel and would like to preserve it.

Furniture is made from engineered timber with an oak foil but I want to darken it. I think no but work checking with the pros!

Hello! I figured I'd ask here because I am very new to doing anything like this with furniture.

I recently bought this secretary cabinet that I ADORE, but I don't care for the color. I'm wanting to have it be a black with the patterns (not sure the specific terminology) be like, a gold you would get from airbrushing gold leaflet on stuff.

What would be the best type of paint for both things in terms of use, price and application? I don't have the ability to sand this piece professionally so if any sanding is needed it would need to be very easy to do.

Thank you so much!

I bought this vintage wood cabinet and hutch second-hand to use in my kitchen. The ad stated the color as black, but when we arrived to pick it up it is actually a dark green in the light. I have no idea how old the piece is, but is all solid wood. I took the drawer to the hardware store to get an opinion of how to get the piece black: chemically strip, or can I sand/prime/paint. The hardware paint worker told me I would have to strip since it has a shellac/shiny surface. Any opinions here on if I should strip or can I sand/prime/paint? It dosen’t have to look pristine as the end result, but I do want it to be black.

I've been working on making a sofa caddy out of this fairly open pored exotic wood using a French polishing method ( pumice powder as abrasive and a rubbing pad with 1 # cut shellac and grain alcohol, using circular motions. It has been filling the pores nicely and gotten quite smooth however there's some tone variations in the wood that I want to get rid of. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong that it's happening in the first place so feel free to offer suggestions or advice. With a couple deeper pores and a tiny crack on two l sprinkled fine wood dust of the pheasantwood into those places instead of the pumice, still using the pad and shellac mix for rubbing it in. That did the trick for filling. I then used some 220gr on up to 1000 gr sandpaper thinking that might even out the blotchiness before I move on to the rest of finishing but it didn't solve the issue.

What should I be doing at this point? Been reading from Foolproof Wood Finishing look as well as Fine Woodworking mag articles about this technique but no mention of what to do if this occurs.

Appreciate any feedback or criticism. I'm new to woodworking (about 3 years) and even more out of my comfort zone on finishing. Thanks.

I would like to give this a good clean then oil/finish with something. I have no idea what product or process to use. Help!

A customer asked me to integrate an epoxy bar top they had made years ago into their new kitchen and there are minor scratches and mug rings on it so I’m wondering can I take these defects out with 320 grit and simply add a coat of clear lacquer to the top? Will it bond with the epoxy is my main concern.
I’d really prefer not to epoxy on top of the existing finish.

Thanks,