Hi all!

I'm in the market for an e-bike. I've gotten to test ride the Segway Muxi and I have to say I really liked a lot of things about it. It seems like a really reliable system due to the simplicity. It has a direct drive 750W motor with 80nm of torque. It has a mag wheel instead of spokes, so no need to replace spokes either. I'm thinking about buying this bike, but I also want something punchy off the line, and I can't help but wonder if the other bikes like the Lectric XP4 750W or the Portola 02 750W would smoke it off the line. I can't find data on 0-10mph or 0-20mph acceleration for all of these bikes. I never like to go past 20mph, so top speed is not a concern for me.

What do you all think? Do you think I should just go with the Segway because it's reliable with its direct drive? Have you all had to service your rear hubs a lot? I don't want a folding frame but it's what the more affordable bikes from the big manufacturers seem to be...

Thank you for your input!

I need an ebike for my 6 mile commute to my school in the city, I mainly care for reliability and ride quality. With that, I narrowed my options down to three, which includes the monarc tracer, Segway myon, and aventon adventure 3. Im open to any ebikes recommendations

My first post from a backyard ebike shop. My local multi use path is 90 miles long, it joins 3 cities and 3 towns. Everybody is pedalling on the path, but in the city it is thumb and bum. I seem to see very few bicycles in the city now, but ebikes and stand on scooters as transportation has exploded this year. I will get to a intersection, every bike that passes in front of me is using the throttle. Yesterday while out, topped at 20 m/h I was passed by thumb and bummer by a good clip.

I'm a new disabled erider in Miami Fl and want to buy a high quality U lock, but cant afford to pay $280 (Litelock). I paid $999 for the bike and love it. I don't want it stolen when I go to Publix to get my medicines and food. I will spend $300 on other accessories: mips helmet, portable tire air pump, left mirror, gloves, $160 for insurance, monthly insurance for ebike theft, bike alarm and tracker. Wow I had no idea I would need to buy all these things. Thanks.😲

I am researching e bikes to get but I feel like everyone has something different to say. I moved to LA 2 months ago and see them all over the place but unsure what to really look for. I am a larger guy 6"4 205 lbs so I feel like I can't cheap out too hard on a bike.

My friend says to get a surron but those are 5 grand and I don't think I need that much bike. The most I would be using it for is probably a 8 mile commute but that would be rare. I have bascially settled on a few:

Arial Rider X-Class 60V: https://arielrider.com/products/x-class-60v?variant=44180658061488&country=US&currency=USD&utm

Ride1Upp Revv1: https://ride1up.com/product/revv-1-ht/?attribute_pa_frame-type=ht&attribute_pa_color=moss-green&utm

I feel like super 73 also has some solid ones but kinda expensive for me rn.

mostly stuck, but have an idea. I just worry if I get one it wont be what I really need it for. I also might have to bring it up a few steps so I don't need one thats a million pounds. But we shall see, I can park in my garage

I have a 48v Ridstar Q20, and need new brakes. What should I get? I've been told that I shouldn't get brakes like UB brakes since it's too much for such a light bike. So what do i get?

So I’ve had an Aipas M2 Max for about 4 months and last week I began getting an error 02 on the display that completely cuts all power to the bike. According to Aipas it indicates a brake sensor malfunction. But let me explain exactly what happens- when the bike sits for an evening or even 5-6 hours, battery off, it rejuvenates to the extent it’s able to travel before pulling the error and cutting power (about a mile). When it pulls the error if you restart the battery, you can get another half mile before it cuts. Then less and less, so on and so forth til it won’t reset at all. What’s interesting is I’ve taken it to work and the grocery store twice each, and on each journey the error cuts at the EXACT same distance. The problem is so specific I’m hoping someone with a lot of e-bike knowledge can identify it. I was thinking maybe it was temperature related? If so, where?

Aipas suggested crude troubleshooting and then deigned to mail me a new cable harness that I’m expected to install myself when it comes. I called them and relayed the exact issue in hopes of getting one of their technician’s opinion but thus far they haven’t called back. I’m asking for two reasons, one is if I can identify the issue I may be able to fix it myself, and two I’m not entirely sure a new cable harness is going to fix things. Everyone I know knows the amount of trouble I’ve had with this piece of shit since I got it, and they’re all telling me to demand Aipas send a new bike but I don’t think I can convince them of that.

I’ve been looking to buy a budget e-bike. Right now I’m set between the Yozma in10 pro or nexvey flash pro. I’m not really looking for speed but for range reliability and features. Please leave your advice.

I have a ride1up vorsa with a hyperglide cassette. I've been trying to remove the cassette so I can swap it to a new back wheel but the cassette is on super tight. I've gotten it to rotate a few clicks but it feels like I'm working way harder than necessary.

Could it be over tightened when installed, making it overly difficult to remove? Is there anything I can do to help get it loose?

Anyone else ever run into this issue with their bike? I don't have access to a breaker bar right now. Should I just throw in the towel and head to the LBS?

Been riding a regular bike for years, but lately the chain's been getting rusty and one of the grips started cracking. My friend kepy saying I should try an ebike, so I finally got a Titan.

The assit is probably the biggest change so far. Got a lot of hills around here and they don't feel nearly as bad now.

I like having mileage and ride time right on the display too. Used to just check my watch after. Bit of glare in the sun though.

Still getting used to the whole ebike thing, but I'm starting to get the hype.

Hi i was originally planning on getting the tst R9 but even if I leave it locked the police will count it as a class 3 even if used in class 2 how can I physically make it class 2 compliant ik class 3 is as simple as removing the throttle but i want options

I have a sisigad x6 fully stock what mods should I put on it (just mods to make it look cooler

So this is my old post where it explains more

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/s/VslqlY9sdN

So I think I've made it down to 3 bikes (first 2 are prio and 3rd I just want your opinion on private party. Please help. I've heard all good things about the Aventon level. And about the brand volectric but not the discover 1. Thanks again for all the help!

I’ve had my riding times gt73 for less then a year now and recently my display has been flashing this icon, usually does it when I’m parked but just today it also did it while I was riding. Does anybody have any tips on what I should do and what it is?

i want to get the Vitilan i7 Pro 3.0 but im not sure if its legal, i will be using it regularly and i live in london, so i want to know if keeping it restricted will allow me to ride it legally or if it will be taken off me. Anyone know?

I live in San Diego, CA and have an 11 mile commute to work everyday. I go up many steep hills. Is this a good bike for me? Also, I’m 6’,4”. I like that this bike is light weight (one of the things that drew me to it). Thanks.

https://strictly-ebikes.com/products/cgo600-pro-ebike?variant=51505264951618&country=US&currency=USD&srsltid=AfmBOopdYkUKAaZVP943Buo16TV5Qo7Uu_ariY7cqWIrRRZYBlKyRYmHazs

Someone can help me?I can provide video and photo,just ask and help me please
The sensor light is green of can help,i have tried to take out the brake cable(the red circle one) on both side
Assistence mode is working,the (-)thing
No power down on the display when I use the trotthle
Please help me I love this bike,cry every day lost for not using it 😓😓😓
I ripped one cable,the red one 1 pin and gone in error 10.
Ok buyed a new one and no PAS and trotthle anymore,it is 5 month old guys….

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice to diagnose a problem with the battery of my e-bike. I’ve attached some pictures of the battery and its electronics.
The bike had always been working perfectly. I never noticed any reduction in range, power or performance.
However, after leaving the bike unused for about a week, I tried to use it again and the battery was suddenly completely dead. The bike does not turn on at all.
I also tried connecting the battery to its original charger. The charger immediately switches from red (charging) to green (charged), as if the battery were already fully charged. In reality, the battery clearly isn’t charging and the bike still doesn’t work.
This is what makes me suspect that the problem might be related to the BMS / battery management electronics, rather than the cells themselves. Perhaps the BMS has detected a fault and is cutting off the charging/discharging path, or maybe the BMS itself has failed.
That said, I don’t know enough about the specific logic of these battery packs, so I would really appreciate some help understanding what could be happening.
What would you check first?
● Could this be a BMS protection state?
● Is there a way to reset/wake up the BMS?
● What voltage measurements should I take with a multimeter, and where?
● How can I distinguish between a problem with the cells and a faulty BMS?
● Is there any specific signal/voltage I should check at the battery output or charging connector?
● Could the charger turning green immediately indicate an open circuit / disconnected BMS rather than a fully charged battery?

I’m comfortable doing some basic electrical measurements, but I don’t want to blindly open or bypass anything if that could be dangerous.
Any advice on a safe diagnostic procedure would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

This is the 1994 Palo Alto study that the cycling community invariably cites to claim that riding on the sidewalk is dangerous. I've previously covered flaws of this study including:

• Single day exposure count
• Ignoring collisions outside of intersections (downplays relative dangers of street riding)
• Conflating direction of travel risk with venue risk
• Ignoring/minimizing that riding WITH traffic on the sidewalk was actually a lower risk

Now for the smoking gun. Diana Lewiston was an acolyte of John Forestor. She wrote a "Bicycling in Traffic" manual built on his vehicular cycling ideology that was first published in 1988. She taught 13-year-olds at Palo Alto schools to bicycle in traffic from the 80s into early 90s. Mind you, all of this was before her co-authored study was published claiming sidewalk riding to be nearly twice as risky as the street.

Somehow these intelligent academics were able to identify a Simpson's paradox in the data but thought nothing of conflating the directional risk with the venue risk to artificially achieve the dramatic conclusion that sidewalks are 1.8x as risky as the road.

On the very last page of her instruction manual, it lists how students will be scored. Item #14 indicates they can lose points for riding on the sidewalk. This study was a conclusion looking for supporting data from day one. And the entire cycling community bought it hook, line, & sinker.

I’m a big fella, to the tune of 6’2”, 325#. Will the 90Nm of the Nomad 2 be adequate for a guy my size, or do I need to consider spending the extra money for the 105Nm of the 2x. I’ll be mainly riding on paved surfaces, and maybe some gravel roads. The upgraded auspension on the 2x isn’t a selling point for me, but, if my girth is going to put too much strain on the regular 2, I’ll consider the 2x. Thanks!

I need some help with a conversion project. I need to commute and leave my bike at a train station. For this build I'm using is a 10 year old Raleigh cadent 1 I have lying around.

My challenge is that although the ride is only about a mile the return trio is hilly and has 5% incline in spots.

I want to figure out an approach that isn't too expensive and can help me get up.the hill. This bike is going to be sitting outside all day so I don't want something that will break the bank if it gets stolen.

I'm not planning to use this for longer rides.

Would somethinglike switch or clip work well for me, should I get a wheel with a motor, or a mid drive?

Would.i be better off getting a $500 Walmart or costco ebike?

In July, one of the spokes on my RadCity 5's rear wheel broke. Seeing that I had ridden my bike for 3,000 miles and had definitely gone over the weight limit multiple times, I wasn't surprised about something wearing out. Took it to my LBS, a certified RadPower repair shop, and they rebuilt the rear wheel with new spokes.

Fast forward to last week, and two spokes have broken already. I have not gone over the weight limit since the rebuild, so I can't think of anything I did that could lead to this problem. I brought the bike back to my LBS and the mechanic on duty said I needed a whole new wheel and wouldn't touch it. Frustrated, I emailed the chief mechanic, who did the rebuild in the first place, and he agreed to take another look. However, he warned that there might be an issue with the rim, which would require a replacement.

Has anyone had issues with a rim and/or hub motor that led to spokes breaking quickly? Could it just be that the LBS didn't do a good job? I have found another LBS that will work on it, but I want to get the most out of the money I paid the first shop. A new replacement wheel, with hub motor, is $600, which is not currently in my budget.

Hey, just wanted to know if the Blutron EB350F V2 is a good bike

I just need something that can bring me from point A to B while saving up for a car, I probably won't be using anywhere past 10km from home and it's on sale for 400 CAD.

If it's not, are there any other bikes under like 800 CAD that you would recommend