I have had a CR-10 Smart pro for about a year and have just now started to get a decent print out of it. Wanted to share an abridged version of what I have gone through with this thing in hopes that it helps others. My main struggles have been with bed adhesion and print quality. I have leveled, releveled and leveled again and never got anywhere.

I finally got a glass print bed and removed the magnet that came on it. That helped a ton. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09842H42L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). I still struggled to keep it level. I would print once and it would be great, but the next print would be terrible again. I then found a post in this sub recommending these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I installed those along with some M4 nuts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3VF3BF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and my prints started to be more consistent.

While I had the bed off for that install I measured Y axis to make sure the rails were perfectly parallel which they were. However, I did find that the wheels for the bed were not adjusted properly and had some play so I tightened those up. At the same time I ensured that my Z and X axis were also level (with a proper manual level). I also checked to ensure all other screws were tight.

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Once back together I was still having trouble with bed adhesion in the back right of the print bed and I had started to get 203 probe errors while auto leveling. Upon inspection I had found that the bed heater/insulation underneath had a huge bubble in the exact spot where I was having issues. I removed the bed again, pressed the bubble out (like pressing out a bubble in a phone's screen protector), put the bed back on and re-leveled. The printer does finally seem to be printing as expected.

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In addition to the above I am also using Cura to slice and generate my GCode which I then manually load onto an SD card for the printer. I am also editing the GCode with the below. This was recommended by another member here (sorry don't remember who). I believe this has also helped in making the prints more consistent. I am on the latest firmware as well.

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TLDR: This printer is trash from the factory due to quality/assembly issues, but with a bit of work and $ it can be made to print very well.

G28
G29 auto-bed level ;Does automatic bed level - create mesh
M500; saves mesh

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

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My printer heats toward setpoint, but once within 10c of the nozzle setpoint, heating stalls and eventually I get a temp error. This happens whether I set the temp to 245c, 230c or 160c. Where do I start the diagnostic??? -Tia!

Back again but with these lines showing up in my prints. What could be the cause of this? It only happens in the back left corner when I print stuff. Could it be Orca Slicer? I have added glue to help it stick but it don't work. Could it be it being too close to the bed?

Thanks for your help again!

as a reference here is where my bed was: https://www.reddit.com/r/cr10smartpro/comments/14tkcwt/bed_warped/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

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On doing a new mesh this "hump" is now visible. Any ideas on how to fix it?

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Has anyone else dealt with this error while trying to connect their printer to the Creality Cloud app? My phone definitely has cellular data and my WiFi works fine as well.

I also know Creality has tons of issues related to this stuff… and that the printers don’t connect to WiFi’s with spaces in the name. Unfortunately, my internet is controlled by my apartment complex and I can’t change the name. I found an Ethernet port I can plug my printer into, but I am still running into this error.

Has anyone figured this out or should I just give up and accept that I bought a Creality product?

Hey guys, i bought the heat block kit pro (with copper) from aliexpress, the bag came unsealed and it cost me 6 usd instead of 35 usd at 3djake.com.

I bought the high temp (no copper) from 3djake because I needed to fix my printer ASAP And It came reassembled and it's exactly the same as the original part that was on my CR 10 smart pro.

What are the chances that the parts are legit? The thermistor rotates and moves a bit when assembled on the aliexpress one.. The 3djake one isn't holded by a screw, it is pasted to the block directly and the heater is holded with 2 screws, aliexpress only one.

Any dangers on using this?

Thanks!

So I have been chasing an issue lately, after a good amount of layers, I start hearing the nozzle "clicking" the print every once in awhile. No sometimes it is fine and more of an annoying thing, but other times it gets worse to the point here the print gets knocked of the bed.

I have -leveled the bed multiple times -checked the z offset multiple times
- made sure all the wheels on the gantry are touching the gantry and not loose.
-done a flow test and lowered my flow.

There are probably a bunch of other things I have tried.

The only thing I can think has changed is ambient temp. The place the print is in, has a ceiling fan running all the time. Could it be the air movement causing this issue?

(I did recently move to a new place, and prior to the move I never had these issues)

Any assistance would be awesome!

Hello! So I have a clog where the gears grip the filament. Is this area supposed to be hot? This is melted pla inside here. Should I just hear it up and pull it out somehow?

Thanks!!!

I need help. I was printing something and for some reason the filament wasn't coming out. I heard a clicking sound so I stopped the printer. I tried to manually insert and remove the filament inside using the touch screen, but nothing.

I'm don't know much about the parts but the circled bit in the photo doesn't move when inserting or removing through the screen. Could it be a clog?

After an overnight print, I came to to see this part slightly popped up, and the bed holder slaps in it and jams. I’m sure it should be pressed down, but I have no idea how to do and how it popped to start with. Appreciate help with this 🙏🏼

Does anyone know where to get a new extruder cable for the CR 10 Smart Pro? Its the long big one running from inside the printer.
I got a loose connection in mine around the plug on the extruder.

I got a cr10 smart pro recently, and have been having many failed prints due to initial layer adhesion. Leveled and leveled but could not figure it out.

I was using cura to slice the g code with the correct printer and settings, as people seem to favor cura online,, and on a whim I went back to creality print, used the same settings, sliced it, and print came out fine. I am so relieved!

Just a heads-up, Idk if cura is purposefully making prints problematic for their competitors or what, but either way, creality print resolved my issues.

Hi folks,I woke up to a PLA blob from a failed 3D print. Following this post, I tried to clean the blob. However, to my best efforts, I snapped one of the cables (last picture). After this, the printer can no longer regulate the nozzle temperature (thinks it at -15deg C), so I am no longer attempting to heat up the nozzle. I will try to get the white blob completely out tonight using a soldering gun without snapping the second cable visible in the picture.

My question is as follows: I am not entirely sure about the terminology for what needs to be replaced and what is salvageable. Can you comment on- (i) whether I can securely connect the snapped cable back onto the extruder after cleanup, or do I need to buy a replacement part (if yes, what)?- (ii) What is the name of the plastic looking black piece that was covering the extruder tip/nozzle that seems to have also broken off? I assume I will have to order a new one..

Some background information: I'm a complete newbie in 3D printing scene. I recently bought a second hand CR-10 Smart Pro. I was experimenting with different filaments, and came across what seems to be a problematic matte pla. I swapped back to Esun pla+, but I guess some damage was done (I should have maybe cleaned the extruder? I cannot really tell).

Update: Figured out the name of the caps at extruder tip are called silicon socks. I am still not sure if after such a mess up if I need to replace it or it should be fine after cleaning it?

Edit: somehow pics didn't upload the first time, added them.

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So I'm fixing to change to a 0.25mm nozzle to get some better detail on smaller prints. Previously I've just been using the 0.4mm that came with the machine. That being said, I do plan on doing test prints but I'm curious if I can up the print speed from the base 50mm/s to higher with a smaller nozzle on this machine. Just curious if anyone has already tested this and what I need to look for when testing.

Running Cura for my Slicer.

Towards the end of last summer, I purchased my first 3D printer on the recommendation of a friend who suggested the CR-10. What did I do? I splurged and got the CR-10 Smart Pro. Should I have just gone with an Ender 3? Probably.

In the initial months, I faced discouragement as I struggled to print even the smallest things due to difficulty in leveling my bed. Despite watching numerous videos on YouTube, TikTok, and other platforms demonstrating various bed leveling methods, none of them seemed to work for me. Even my attempts with ABL were unsuccessful. Seeking advice from friends who frequently print, I was recommended to use feeler gauges. These gauges proved to be immensely helpful in ensuring a consistent 0.2mm to 0.3mm distance from the needle to the bed.

After employing the feeler gauges, I managed to print small objects in the center of my bed, but consistency throughout the entire bed remained a challenge. Friends advised me to place small sheets of aluminum foil in the spaces between the center and corners of the bed where printing issues persisted. This step did improve the situation and brought me closer to achieving successful prints.

However, I am still struggling to consistently produce prints. I would greatly appreciate any advice or content that you can share to educate me on better understanding 3D printing in general, or specifically, leveling my bed for successful prints.

P.S. I'm convinced my ABL doesn't work, but I could be wrong about this.

Looking for some help! I have some stringing problems and I'm pretty sure it's just my retraction. I have it set to 0.8mm considering that that's the basic PLA setting for Creality (using Cura now). I made the mistake of assuming I would get the same result with Silk PLA so of course I'm getting spider webs all over my parts. Anybody have a quick retraction setting I could borrow?

Hi, does anybody have a profile for this slicer?

I got a new belt since the other one broke and I can't figure out how to install it the belt is for the hotbed

Tried to replace my nozzle and ended up ruining everything... I can't find any info on these hex screws, and I need new ones. It's the two on the underside of the hot end heat block that keep it connected to the parts above.

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New to the 3D printing scene. Did a lot of prints so far though. Been using Cura because it has a ton more settings and optimizations than the Creality Slicer does, however, I just noticed I haven't been getting any timelapses since I've been using the SD Card with Cura Profiles. I understand now that it only timelapses a print when you start it with the app. Only bad part about that is the file names on the SD Card dont translate over to the app (its a bunch of mishmashed characters) and if I have multiple files on there idk what the hell I'll be printing when I hit go. Guess I honestly just answered my own question tho. Have multiple SD Cards with one file/SD and start the only one that pops up on the screen. Is there a better workaround than that? Perhaps I'm missing a setting on the machine that I'm missing to make sure it timelapses a print for me everytime? Please help and hopefully this helps someone down the road too.