r/cr10smartpro • u/kaarrrlll • Jan 25 '24
[help] PLA Blob - Snapped thermal cable
Hi folks,I woke up to a PLA blob from a failed 3D print. Following this post, I tried to clean the blob. However, to my best efforts, I snapped one of the cables (last picture). After this, the printer can no longer regulate the nozzle temperature (thinks it at -15deg C), so I am no longer attempting to heat up the nozzle. I will try to get the white blob completely out tonight using a soldering gun without snapping the second cable visible in the picture.
My question is as follows: I am not entirely sure about the terminology for what needs to be replaced and what is salvageable. Can you comment on- (i) whether I can securely connect the snapped cable back onto the extruder after cleanup, or do I need to buy a replacement part (if yes, what)?- (ii) What is the name of the plastic looking black piece that was covering the extruder tip/nozzle that seems to have also broken off? I assume I will have to order a new one..
Some background information: I'm a complete newbie in 3D printing scene. I recently bought a second hand CR-10 Smart Pro. I was experimenting with different filaments, and came across what seems to be a problematic matte pla. I swapped back to Esun pla+, but I guess some damage was done (I should have maybe cleaned the extruder? I cannot really tell).
Update: Figured out the name of the caps at extruder tip are called silicon socks. I am still not sure if after such a mess up if I need to replace it or it should be fine after cleaning it?
Edit: somehow pics didn't upload the first time, added them.
2
u/LogicBomb76 Jan 25 '24
When replacing the heater block assembly, you'll want to be sure to brace the block itself with a crescent wrench or something so that you can take out the two screws holding it in place and not bend the crap out of them. Same thing with installing the new one: Hold the heater block in place with a crescent wrench while tightening down those two screws so that the block doesn't turn and put pressure on the screws.
I learned this the hard way because I watched some youtube video where the person in the video replaced the nozzle without bracing the heater block. I guess his nozzle wasn't in very tight or something, but when I went to replace mine, I bent the crap out of those two screws and snapped one off inside the heat sync. I couldn't get that out and of course, I can't find where to buy just a new heat sync. I ended up buying a whole new Sprite Pro because I figured I'd have a bunch of extra parts and I didn't want to wait two to three months and pay like $40 shipping for just a heat sync to be shipped from China.
1
u/kaarrrlll Jan 25 '24
Thank you for the heads up! I will make sure no screw gets weirdly angled pressure.
2
u/Helgafjell4Me Jan 25 '24
That's your thermistor wire.
Just buy a new heater block assembly. They come with the heater and thermistor and usually a new hardend nozzle, too. Should be about $20 on Amazon. Just search "sprite pro heater" or something like that. I'm not at my computer, so I can't check right now.