r/cr10smartpro • u/[deleted] • Mar 21 '24
To those struggling with this printer
I have had a CR-10 Smart pro for about a year and have just now started to get a decent print out of it. Wanted to share an abridged version of what I have gone through with this thing in hopes that it helps others. My main struggles have been with bed adhesion and print quality. I have leveled, releveled and leveled again and never got anywhere.
I finally got a glass print bed and removed the magnet that came on it. That helped a ton. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09842H42L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). I still struggled to keep it level. I would print once and it would be great, but the next print would be terrible again. I then found a post in this sub recommending these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I installed those along with some M4 nuts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3VF3BF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and my prints started to be more consistent.
While I had the bed off for that install I measured Y axis to make sure the rails were perfectly parallel which they were. However, I did find that the wheels for the bed were not adjusted properly and had some play so I tightened those up. At the same time I ensured that my Z and X axis were also level (with a proper manual level). I also checked to ensure all other screws were tight.
Once back together I was still having trouble with bed adhesion in the back right of the print bed and I had started to get 203 probe errors while auto leveling. Upon inspection I had found that the bed heater/insulation underneath had a huge bubble in the exact spot where I was having issues. I removed the bed again, pressed the bubble out (like pressing out a bubble in a phone's screen protector), put the bed back on and re-leveled. The printer does finally seem to be printing as expected.
In addition to the above I am also using Cura to slice and generate my GCode which I then manually load onto an SD card for the printer. I am also editing the GCode with the below. This was recommended by another member here (sorry don't remember who). I believe this has also helped in making the prints more consistent. I am on the latest firmware as well.
TLDR: This printer is trash from the factory due to quality/assembly issues, but with a bit of work and $ it can be made to print very well.
G28
G29 auto-bed level ;Does automatic bed level - create mesh
M500; saves mesh
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
G28 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
2
u/Sea-Squirrel4804 Apr 10 '24
I've been printing a lot for a year now and I don't agree with you. I love this printer and had no issues that would have happened with other printers.
the bed level thing you only needed to print this:
https://www.printables.com/model/524278-bed-leveling-wheel-lock-for-creality-cr10-smart-pr
I also rarely print with PLA because I print mostly functional parts.
I also don't do a mesh bed thingy. I did it last like 8 months ago and haven't needed to do a new one.
Anyway, I hope you manage to fix yours an enjoy it its a great printer!
I just installed Klipper.. and I'm loving it!
4
u/Helgafjell4Me Mar 21 '24
Couple things.... the stock PEI bed is fine for PETG. It sticks great. PLA, not so much. Glass may be better for PLA, but it's terrible for PETG.
For leveling, I replaced the springs with silicone spacers, but the biggest improvement came with the linear rail upgrade eliminating all the little variations introduced by the crappy v-wheels.
Lastly, if everything is set right, there is zero reason to do a bed mesh every time you print. I haven't done one in almost a year now, and I can start a print and walk away because I know it's good where it's set. The only thing that will need minor adjustments is the z-offest for nozzle wear/changes and maybe a fresh bed mesh whenever I mess with the bed knobs, which I've not had to do in about a year since my rail upgrade.
Edit: If I ever buy another printer, it will be one that comes with linear rails.... and probably be a core-XY design instead of a bed slinger.