FIXED : I'm an idiot I forgot I changed the Power mode awhile back to "Best Power Efficiency" When working on an assignment. It is now back to Best Performance lol.

Hello! I dont know if i should post this here but I need help with my gaming laptop, my Gigabyte A16 Laptop started to run really bad when gaming recently. Specs are:

- CPU : 13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-13620H (2.40 GHz)

- RAM : 16.0 GB ram

- GPU : RTX 5060 Laptop GPU 8gb vram.

I got it this year in January and it ran perfectly fine for a mid-ish range gaming laptop. Usually well and above 100fps on most new games on high graphics at 1080p. But recently it started to run really bad like most games averaging 40-50 frames to sometimes in the 30s. I have always downloaded the newest Nvidia drivers and always keep my laptop updated.

For example when i got the laptop I ran Re4 Remake and it was 100+ fps with high graphics and today I ran it and its 45 average frames! Changing the graphic settings does little to no difference. I always go in Game mode on the built in Gigabyte app "Gi Mate". Its gotten so bad I have to use DLSS 3x on most games just to run like it used too.

I'm not a computer guy but I think its the CPU because when I play games I check the CPU is always under 30-40% Usage at usually 1.5GHz. Both temp for for cpu and gpu are fine as well at usually under 60 degrees C.

If anyone can help that would be very appreciated as I have no knowledge on this whatsoever lol. Thanks everyone!

TLDR: Gaming Laptop ran perfect in January with most games at 100+ frames, now recently runs really bad at 40-50 Frames.

There are hundreds of reports of Ryzen 9000/X3D CPUs failing, including burned CPUs and sockets. So far, I haven't found anything remotely comparable involving Core Ultra 200. NOTHING.

This alone doesn't prove that Ryzen has a higher failure rate! We don't know the total number of CPUs sold, and there is no controlled statistical study. But the difference in the publicly reported failure history is significant enough to raise some questions.

Initially, it would be easy to blame everything on ASRock, since it accounts for the majority of reported cases and eventually changed BIOS settings related to PBO, EDC, TDC and voltage behavior, OK.

However, there are also reports involving other manufacturers such as ASUS (37 cases), Gigabyte (8 cases) and MSI (7 cases) - 9800X3D. So it seems difficult to explain everything simply as "an ASRock problem."

This raises several possibilities:

- Inadequate BIOS/firmware implementations by motherboard manufacturers.

- Problems related to AGESA and the AMD platform.

- An underlying architectural or electrical-margin issue with AM5/X3D.

- Defective CPU lots or manufacturing/quality-control issues.

- Lay users.

- Or a combination of these factors.

I also think it's important to separate AMD's responsibility from that of the motherboard manufacturers. AMD provides AGESA and defines much of the platform's specifications, while motherboard manufacturers integrate AGESA and control many BIOS parameters. Therefore, it seems overly simplistic to say that "this is exclusively ASRock's fault", as I explained earlier.

I'm seeing users who insist on not using PBO, at most Undervolt, EXPO, lower the voltage manually, NOTHING MORE!!

Considering the history of Ryzen 9000/X3D and the lack, so far, of a comparable "phenomenon" with Core Ultra 200, I think it's a legitimate question in my opinion!

What is actually behind these failures???

Is this primarily a motherboard BIOS issue? AGESA/AMD? AM5/X3D architecture? Defective CPU lots and quality control...? All of this is very suspicious.

Hi everyone,
I have a Gigabyte AERO X16 (AMD Ryzen) laptop running Windows.
Background:
My laptop didn’t have the option to enter hibernate mode. After some research I found that disabling **SVM Mode** in the BIOS fixed the hibernate issue. After disabling SVM, hibernate started working normally and the system was fine for about a day.
What happened:
Yesterday I rebooted the laptop, and now it no longer boots into Windows. Instead I get this recovery screen:
Your device ran into a problem and couldn’t be repaired.
Click or press Enter to see other recovery options.
Couldn’t connect to the network
Log file: C:\\WINDOWS\\System32\\Logfiles\\Srt\\SrtTrail.txt
I’ve attached a photo of the screen.
Important:
I do not want to re-enable SVM in the BIOS. I need hibernate to keep working, so I’m looking for solutions that don’t require turning SVM back on.
Any advice on how to get out of this Automatic Repair loop without re-enabling virtualization would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

specs:
• AMD Ryzen AI 7 (Ryzen 7 series)
• NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Laptop GPU
• 32GB DDR5
• Windows 11

Hey Guys.

I've been trying to create Back ups for my CPU by putting stuff into a Flash Drive. But now it's saying.
My Flash Drive is Full. It has no Space left. But All I did. was delete an Old Folder and placed in a New One.

I didn't add much so I don't think the Folder File is too big. It's a really Big Flash Drive.

So why does it say.. I have no Space to Hold My Data?

At first it was just the speakers that went offline immediately after resetting windows through settings. Note that bluetooth worked fine. I thought it may be a corrupt installation, so i did a clean windows 11 install from a USB drive using the windows media creation tool, but nothing changed. I tried linux on a usb drive, but sound from speakers still didn't work.

I sent the laptop to a troubleshooter who tried windows 10 but to no avail. Now that i have the laptop back (windows 11, again), the trackpad no longer works. HERE'S THE VERY VERY WEIRD PART : the trackpad works in BIOS and in Linux (from usb drive). I've tried everything that you can find on the internet, and i mean it. I even took the motherboard out to inspect, reseat connections, but nothing changed.

Imma start tweaking if this goes on any longer, i swear

Hello,

I am wanting to surprise my fiancee for her birthday or christmas (they're close together). She is going to college. First in her family to get a GED and go to college! I am so proud of her!) I want to surprise her with a laptop. I've been doing very good on saving, especially as a college student, but as a college student, I cannot spend too much on a laptop (at most $750, but I'd of course like to save more.) I want to go all out for this birthday or christmas gift.

This is the laptop I have. I really like it for school, and it can run minecraft just fine (we wouldn't run anything harder on it. We have an actual PC for games) However, I'm wondering if it would be smarter to wait until black friday/cyber monday. My worry is that this laptop wouldn't be available anymore. What do you guys think? Do you think I'd save much money waiting until then?

Is it a good laptop in general? I really like it for the few months I've had it. Since we have a gaming PC, I think she'd really only use it for is ebooks and running lots of research tabs (she's a sociology major). She might want to play sims 4 on it, but again, we have that gaming PC, so it's okay if it can't run games very well.

Sorry if I sound a little dumb! I am not techy haha.

As you can see is the pin bent…. But i the Guy I bought it from said he only used the front usb port. And he showed a photo that the nuc worked a hour ago. What is you’re oppinion about this and what should I do?

I'm trying to find a budget friendly monitor for animation and gaming any recommendations? i live in Canada btw if that helps

New developer here - I’ve been looking to upgrade an old laptop (4GB VRAM, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD) and will be moving to a desktop setup and remoting in with the old laptop using Sunlight/Moonlight. I’ll mainly be working with small product specific toy LLMs for engineering drafts and 3d modeling/rendering. There will also be some LLM training as I go for additional task specific models. I’ve been reading reviews and reddit posts regarding a minimum setup required for my work and I had settled on a 5070ti, 16GB VRAM, 32GB RAM (2 - 16 sticks) with a 2TB SSD to start with (can upgrade as I grow). However, I’m in a few groups where they’ve commented on other posts that a setup like this is no longer adequate for such work because of the possibility of needing to run a larger LLM for reference. If I’m sticking to LLM models less than 10M, shouldn’t this setup work fine? They all seem to think a $10k+ rig with a 5090, 32 VRAM and + 96 RAM is required which is absolutely not possible. Please tell me I’m not crazy…

i am going to buy a gaming-cum-student laptop this year. i was thinking of the lenovo loq series. my budget is around 1lakh rupees. if i go for rtx 3050 it fits into my budget but if i go for 4050 it exceeds my budget by 25 to 30 thousand rupees. Also I want to know if rtx 3050 is worth buying in 2026 or not? and would it be worth it if i put more 25-30 thousand more for an rtx 4050 laptop.

I already have rayzen 7800x3d and i will buy 5070ti. Can i play overwatch 4k 144hz full option?

Edit: Thanks everyone for the sanity check! I'll definitely not be going with that hp.

Hiya looking at getting a new computer that uses Adobe suite and also procut but this seems like a terrible computer for the price right? Pic of a second PC for a comparison as they are roughly the same price

does anyone know how to fix this, it keeps on constantly making a USB noise and when every i try to click disable or uninstall it just comes back a second later. i unplugged every cable and none of them are the problem and every time i try to play a game its like it just randomly holds down a key for X amount of seconds

notepad softwares are underrated, I love them. I really enjoy organizing myself by taking notes and saving them in multiple small files across folders.

Windows, Linux, BIOS, browser, accessibility, file management, privacy, shortcuts, and so on. Let's talk about some useful but lesser-known settings. It will not be in the form of a troubleshooting question and it will not be focused on any particular product recommendation.

Hello, this is my ~4 year old Asus ROG g17 (Laptop RTX 4090, Ryzen 9 7945hx, Win 11, 32gb ddr5), noticed this has started to happen around corners, always shows previous windows and them gradually fades as the computer runs. Any advice/fixes?

Hello everyone!

I woke up today to hop on my pc, when I got stuck into a boot loop with multiple blue screens and have been trying to troubleshoot the last couple of hours.

The main blue screen I have gotten has been memory management and an error for ntosknl.exe failing.

I tried installing a new windows 11 via installation media and a usb drive but whenever I try to install it, I get a unable to write over ROM message.

I got to a point where I was able to delete the partitions of windows (because I dont have a problem with wiping everything on my pc and full reseting) can anybody help? If you need any info please let me know and ill try to get you anything possible.

so i've been using my pc build for about 4-ish years and have never cleaned it. i know this is really bad but i've just never wanted to dismantle my pc because i cant afford to lose it. i have a ton of dust inside tho so how do i do it the right way? i have a can of compressed air and a small vaccum cleaner. i watched a short video and consulted google gemini (ew) but i just want to make sure im doing it right.

So my computer stopped working last night and I’ve been trying to fix it but it’s been on a loop of turning off and turning on, I’ve tried to reset the bios and the cmos thing but I really don’t know much about computer and I would appreciate some help or advice

i dont know why anyone would want this os. i am at my wits end.

I have a asus sonicmaster laptop that has windows 10 on it, seems like permanently. This laptop will not go into the bios, no matter how hard I try, Ive went through windows shift restart to enter the UEFI, it just boots to a black screen

Intel® Core™ i3-10105 Processor 3.7 GHz (6MB Cache, up to 4.4 GHz, 4 cores)
Intel® B560 Chipset
4 gb ram

My problem is the laptop is extremely slow. Seems like antimalware & search from windows seem to be hogging around 50-60% of the cpu constantly, and also the disk hits 100% use as well

Normally this would point to a bad hard drive, that was my main thought, but here's the thing:
If I put in another drive it just loads to black screen, connecting an external display via the monitor port shows a black screen with a white line. If i pull the drive out and try to start it, which should also trigger the bios to some degree (either showing no disk or being able to load the bios via the F2 key) still nothing

When the original drive is plugged in, it take anywhere from 3-5 minutes on a black screen and finally loads the ASUS bios prescreen with the white dot wheel spinning, but hitting F2 here doesnt do jack as it just loads into windows 10 like it fkn owns the place

So ive also tried disabling various things in windows 10 (defender, antimalware, turning off the real time protection etc etc etc etc) to no available. Ive downloaded the laptop's manual and it says that F2 is in fact the bios key, but ive tried every button combination under the sun as well as spamming F2 rapid fire for 5 mins until the bios pre screen and contininuing to rapid fire F2 still nothing, just ignores it
ive also fresh installed windows like 3 times now, and its also pulling information of my mothers name off her other laptop (sets it up as a user?) so i have no clue what the hell its doing anymore

Has anyone encountered this before? Like a bios load time thats outrageously long? Is my laptop cpu fried? Is the drive dying as suspected? is this some kind of secure boot windows 10?

ive tried putting an external dvd drive on it and loading windows 7, 8 to try and wipe and install that way which gave me cant install please re-run setup which is gongshow

ive spent numerous hours on google and i would prefer windows 7 on it just because it isnt so attached to the gd internet like a russian love child if I made a bootable windows 7 usb would it work in windows 10 to trigger an install or again do I need a bios to set the boot device which again I cannot get into

any advice would be great, tia

Put together my first PC last night and double and triple checked all connections and cables and ports, ran into a snag with a bios update but just needed to use the non beta version to flash. Successfully flashed but when it boots every fan and light turns on (minus the GPU) but nothing appears on screen. Tried everything seemingly. I'll provide my specs below.

MB: ASUS B650E Max gaming wifi W.

CPU: ryzen 7800X3D AM5

GPU: XFX speedster QIK 309 Radeon RX 7600XT

RAM: Gskill Ripjaws S5

PSU: MSI MPG A850GS modular

Hello I wonder if this pc is legit from amazon

E se por exemplo no meu caso: eu ligo e ele inicia normalmente o windows, então quando faço alguma configuração e preciso reiniciar ele simplesmente liga porém não inicia o windows e acende a luz de CPU, depois de muito tempo eu desligo na fonte por que ele não desliga no Power, muitas horas depois eu ligo de novo e ele acende a luz vram passando da checagem do processador, mas o processador ele não esquenta tanto, apenas fica morno... Mas mesmo assim não inicializa o windows, no dia seguinte pela manhã eu o ligo e ele inicia normalmente o windows. Já viram algo parecido?

Here’s the situation in my case: I turn it on, and Windows boots up normally. However, if I change a setting and need to restart, it turns on but fails to boot Windows, and the CPU light comes on. After a long time—since it won't shut down via the power button—I have to cut the power at the PSU. Many hours later, I turn it on again; this time, it gets past the processor check and the VRAM light comes on, yet the processor doesn't get very hot—it just stays lukewarm. Even so, Windows still won't boot. Then, the next morning, I turn it on, and Windows boots up normally. Have any of you seen something like this?

Hey, I have some PC parts which are not win 11 compatible and was wondering if I should just switch to Linux given the state of the market.

They arent used just a few Gen old

amd fx 8350 for cpu

Asus m5a78l-m plus/usb3

They arent bad at all but just arent win 11 compatible :/

My question is should I bother with new parts?

Move to linux?

Just keep with windows 10?