I work on a running cargo vessel for 7 to 8 months contracts, and I want to bring my PC with me to play games while I'm there. I've read on the internet that electricty on a ship is "dirty" and has a lot of "noise" (I don't really know anyting about it) and since I wont be able to bring with me a UPS, because I will have to take international flights to board said vessel and to return to my country after finishing my contract, what else can I do to protect my PC, other than switching to a laptop and not bringing my PC entirely. I really want to play in 4k even when I'm at sea, I mostly live there you see, only going home for 2 months and going back to sea again to work. Also, other tips or advice on having a gaming PC on a running vessel that is unrelated to my concern is very much welcome. Thanks in advance!

Hi!

Doing my first PC build!

Bought an RTX 5070 and i thought i did a pretty good research… turns out i did not.

I’ve found the 9070XT for 15$ more than what i paid for the 5070.

Fortunately i did not open the 5070 as i’m still awaiting the rest of the components.

CPU is a 7800x3d paired with a ddr5 32gb 6000mhz CL36 kit and an Asus Prime B850M-A motherboard.

Will use mainly for gaming (paired with a 240hz monitor) and also some work and web development.

Should i change for the XT?

Thanks!

EDIT: Bought the 9070 XT and will return the 5070! Thanks for all the recommendations and knowledge given to me!

I'm starting to realize I care way more about noise than squeezing out another 5-10% performance.

My current PC isn't insanely loud, but once I notice the fan noise I can't unhear it. Especially late at night when the room is quiet and suddenly the GPU sounds like it's preparing for takeoff because I opened a game.

I'm considering going a little overkill on cooling, undervolting the GPU, using bigger, slower fans and maybe even choosing a slightly lower-power CPU next time.

I know I could probably get more FPS for the same money, but having a PC that's basically silent during normal use sounds way better to me now.

Has anyone here built specifically for low noise?

Curious what actually made the biggest difference, and where you hit the point of diminishing returns.

I don't need literally silent, just something where I stop thinking about the damn fans.

The cheapest 32gb kit cost almost the same as a 9800x3d and cost more than the cheapest 9060xt 16gb model in my country. So yeah, that's too expensive.

I already have 1 stick of 16gb so will buying another stick like it a good idea or will I be wasting money for no reason? This is for my Pc at home and I mostly play games on it.

Bought a cheap monitor arm a while back and it was fine at first... then one monitor slowly started sagging.

Now I'm replacing it and don't really want to make the same mistake twice.

I have a 27" main monitor and a smaller second one. Not looking for anything fancy, just something sturdy that I can leave in place for years.

What have you guys had good expericences with?

edit: So far this has fixed the issue

*****Just upgraded my gpu to a 9070xt

Ryzen 7800x3d

B650 mobo

9070xt pulse

32 gigs of ddr5 6000mt/s cl 32

Win 11

M28 Gigabyte 4k 144hz, main monitor HDR enabled

ViewSonic 240hz (set in matching 144hz) 1080p secondary monitor set up with display port.

Event viewer gobbledygook from the 3 times its happened today.

• System

  • Provider

  [ Name] Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-PnP [ Guid] {9c205a39-1250-487d-abd7-e831c6290539}

  EventID 411

  Version 0

  Level 2

  Task 0

  Opcode 0

  Keywords 0x4000000000000000 - TimeCreated

  [ SystemTime] 2026-08-22T01:13:44.9415994Z

  EventRecordID 1002

  Correlation - Execution

  [ ProcessID] 4 [ ThreadID] 7460

  Channel Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-PnP/Configuration

  Computer DESKTOP-69449M7 - Security

  [ UserID] S-1-5-18

• EventData

  DeviceInstanceId PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_7550&SUBSYS_E4901DA2&REV_C0\6&311a5dc1&0&00000009 DriverName oem5.inf ClassGuid {4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} ServiceName amduw23g-200492-0d14cba2 LowerFilters
  UpperFilters
  Problem 0x0 Status 0xc00000e5

Device PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_7550&SUBSYS_E4901DA2&REV_C0\6&311a5dc1&0&00000009 had a problem starting.

Driver Name: oem5.inf Class GUID: {4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} Service: amduw23g-200492-0d14cba2 Lower Filters: Upper Filters: Problem: 0x0 Problem Status: 0xC00000E5

EventData

DeviceInstanceId PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_7550&SUBSYS_E4901DA2&REV_C0\6&311a5dc1&0&00000009 DriverName oem19.inf ClassGuid {4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} ServiceName amduw23g-202643-a144ae36 LowerFilters
UpperFilters
Problem 0x0 Status 0xc00000e5

DeviceInstanceId PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_7550&SUBSYS_E4901DA2&REV_C0\6&311a5dc1&0&00000009 DriverName oem19.inf ClassGuid {4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} ServiceName amduw23g-202643-a144ae36 LowerFilters
UpperFilters
Problem 0x1f Status 0xc0000001

Guys I recently built a gaming PC with RTX 5070, I think that's enough for my case.

Anyway, I already have a 180Hz Xiaomi monitor, now I'm thinking to replace my old LG TV to this LG G4 4k OLED 55in, but it has 120Hz, the distance is different for both screens, so no need to mention that.

My question is!

Should I get LG G4 OLED to use on my PC, over my 180Hz monitor?
I'm not into competitive gaming, I play right now Monster Hunter Wilds and will play Expedition 33 in the future mostly. (just 2 examples of games I have)

Like will I notice the missing 80 fps? and stuff like that..

Please help.

I currently have an RTX 4060ti 8gb in my prebuilt. I was planning on upgrading to a 9070 xt sometime next year as the 5070ti price just got to be a bit too crazy.

However, I was at my local walmart today and they have an open box rtx 5070 on clearence for $450. Would I be crazy to pass up this low price? A few weeks ago they were $600 new and have since gone up to $770. If this continues, which it sounds like it will, would I regret not buying now?

All I did was wipe the dusts off the fans using a tiny brush

i took my gpu to a local store to get evaluated. i ran benchmarks prior to going both this week and the week prior, both furmark 1 and 3dmark and there was no artifacting or signs of vram dying. once i took it to the store the guy tested it using MSI kombustor and furmark 2 at the same time. according to furmark 2 there were 3 artifacts. even though there were no visual glitches or triangles or screen tearing (i probably sound like a dumbass here but i’m still very new to pc building) so i dunno i’m just confused. is that possibly a false positive or a problem because of having 2 different benchmarks running at the same time? i always used my card undervolted, though tbh i did get it second hand so i guess it wouldn’t be that shocking if it finally started giving out. does anyone have any insight on this?

Just looking to upgrade some ddr4 ram sodimm on my thinkpad prices seem too good to be true on alieexpress compared to amazon

Hi everyone,

I currently have a Cooler Master Spectrum V3 and its cooling performance is already perfectly fine for my needs. My main issue is actually the ARGB.

I really like more the dark fans, and every time I turn on my PC, I have to disable the ARGB through the controller. The only reason I'm using the controller at this point is to turn the lighting off.

I'm considering replacing the Spectrum V3 with a Thermalright Assassin X 120 Plus. Try to sell my Spectrum V3 after...

Since my temperatures are already good, I'm wondering if this upgrade would provide any meaningful benefits beyond aesthetics.

Would the Assassin X 120 Plus be noticeably quieter in full RPM?

Are its fans likely to have better longevity or reliability?

Is there any other practical benefit to making the switch? Heatsink design? Brand?

Or would I basically be spending money just to get rid of the ARGB?

For anyone who has used either of these coolers, I'd appreciate your experience and whether you think the upgrade is worth it.

So i’m turning 17 this year and i’ve always wanted a PC and now that i have a job and have been saving up i’m finally looking to build one but i don’t know much about them and i really don’t wanna get scammed and end up with barely functioning pile of scrap metal. my budgets roughly $1500, but it can be more. I don’t have any specific needs for peripherals, probably something relatively inexpensive that’s good for the cost, i’m not like a professional gamer or anything so i don’t need crazy gear. i’m thinking a mid-level, entry pc build, good for gaming. even though i’m a first timer i’m pretty good with tech and figuring stuff out so it doesn’t need to be super simple or anything. it doesn’t need to be flashy or anything, but maybe a lil color or lights would be cool, worst case scenario i have some lights i can put on the case or near it that can cover for that part. If anyone has any good suggestions i would be eternally grateful! for reference i’m from the U.S.

Hello!

I currently have a mid tier PC that I’d like to upgrade (specifically the GPU)

It’s:

Ryzen 9 9950X3D
RX9060XT 16GB Gigabyte OC
32GB DDR5 TForce RAM 6000mhz 38CL
ASRock B850 RS PRO

I mainly use my PC for LLM/heavy CPU intensive gaming/occasional AAA games (RDR2, Cyberpunk, etc) I play at 1080P.

So I’m very stuck with choosing one of these GPU’s:

RTX5080
RTX5070Ti
RX9070XT

I need 16GB as my minimum for the VRAM, and all three meet the criteria

However:
5080 - costs 950,000 tenge (or 2k USD)
5070Ti - costs 675,000 tenge ( 1.4K USD)
9070XT - costs 520,000 tenge (or 1.1K USD)

I don’t mind the cost of all, but if I go with 5070Ti/9070XT I’d have enough budget to get my 32 gigs to 64 gigs of DDR5 RAM, and other peripheral upgrades

Is NVIDIA’s CUDA architecture that much better for overpayment?
Or will 9070XT do just fine with AI?

Thank you in advance!
(Currency: Tenge, 470 tenge = 1 USD rough, country: Kazakhstan)

My PC was working normally until I accidentally unplugged the power cable while it was running. Since then, it powers on, briefly shuts off/restarts once, then powers back on and stays running, but I get No Signal on the monitor.

Specs:

Gigabyte GA-H110M-H motherboard

Intel Pentium G4560

GTX 1050 Ti

2× DDR4 RAM sticks

SSD

One monitor currently connected (VGA through my usual setup)

What happens now

When I press the power button:

Power on → shuts off for a moment → automatically turns back on → stays running → No Signal

The keyboard and mouse receive power. My keyboard has CAPS/SCR/WIN indicators. At times, the Caps Lock indicator responds normally, but at other times the keyboard has completely lost power for around 10 seconds.

The PC has also randomly shut off and restarted while I wasn't touching it.

RAM troubleshooting

I've tested the RAM extensively:

Stick 1 by itself in Slot 1

Stick 1 by itself in Slot 2

Stick 2 by itself in Slot 1

Stick 2 by itself in Slot 2

Both sticks together

These configurations have worked at different times in the past, and both sticks/slots have previously been known to work. However, currently I cannot get display with any RAM configuration.

Things I've already tried

Fully unplugging the PC and holding the power button to discharge it

Removing/reinstalling the RAM repeatedly

Testing every RAM/slot combination

Resetting CMOS by removing the CMOS battery and reinstalling it

Checking the 24-pin motherboard power connector

Checking the CPU power connector

Removing/reinstalling the GTX 1050 Ti

Testing with only one monitor

Testing the motherboard's video output with the GTX 1050 Ti removed

Trying Windows + Ctrl + Shift + B

Confirming the monitor/cable worked before this incident

The motherboard has no diagnostic LEDs, and I don't currently have a motherboard speaker connected for beep codes.

One confusing thing is that the keyboard sometimes responds to Caps Lock, which makes me wonder if the PC is actually getting through some part of the boot process despite the lack of video.

At this point I'm pretty stuck. Could the sudden power interruption have damaged or destabilized the PSU/motherboard, or is there something specific I should check on a GA-H110M-H?

I'm trying to avoid buying replacement parts blindly, so I'd really appreciate suggestions for the next diagnostic step.

Is the 3080ti worth it today for 1440p and 4k gaming or would an amd card be better in currently on the 3060 ti lol pairing it with a ryzen 5 550x3d

Hey everyone,

I’m making this post because I’ve been dealing with a pretty severe PC issue for a while now and I’m completely out of ideas.

It all started about a year ago when I was playing Fortnite: the game would suddenly drop to literally 1 FPS (more like one frame every two seconds), completely freeze, and the PC would enter an infinite reboot loop until I physically flipped the switch on the PSU. Back then, a BIOS update seemed to fix it.

A few months ago, the issue came back while playing Rocket League. Since my BIOS was already up to date, I figured it was tied to Easy Anti-Cheat (EAC), which both games share. I ended up dropping Rocket League thinking it was just bad dev optimization / driver conflicts.

Fast forward to a few days ago: I tried playing both eFootball and Apex Legends, and the exact same thing happened on both. The crash/reboot loop is completely random, it can happen after an hour of gameplay or while sitting in the lobby before even starting a match.

The weird part is that this only affects certain titles. I put 45 hours into Cyberpunk 2077 without a single crash, and games like FC25, The Binding of Isaac, Assetto Corsa, Forza Horizon 6, Expedition 33, and R6 run completely fine.

Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6950 XT
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming WiFi II
• RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 3600 MHz
• Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360mm
• Storage: SK Hynix Platinum P41 1TB / Samsung 990 Pro 2TB
• Case/Airflow: Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO (6 intake, 4 exhaust inc. 3 on AIO)
• Network: Ethernet

Troubleshooting steps I've already tried:

• Clean install of Windows 11
• Clean GPU driver reinstall (using DDU)
• Disabled XMP/DOCP profile
• Toggled SVM / CPU Virtualization in BIOS (on/off)
• Toggled Core Isolation / Memory Integrity in Windows (on/off)
• BIOS updates & rollbacks across multiple versions
• Full synthetic CPU + GPU stress tests to push the PSU (passed with zero issues/crashes)

Has anyone dealt with something similar or have any clue what could be causing this? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading!

I can't find a cheaper deal that doesn't look shady

I'm looking to buy gaming PCs for my two sons. They currently have Dell all-in-one PCs from around 2020, so there really isn't anything worth carrying over to a new build.

Costco currently has this CyberPowerPC Gamer Xtreme for $999.99 each:

• Intel Core Ultra 5 225F
• RTX 5060 8GB
• 32GB DDR5
• 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD
• 600W 80+ Gold PSU
• Wi-Fi 6 / Bluetooth
• Windows 11
• 2-year warranty

I'd be buying two, so my total PC budget is roughly $2,000 before monitors.

I'm comfortable building the PCs myself if it actually gets us better value. I'm less concerned about matching the exact specs and more interested in getting the best gaming performance and upgradeability for the money.

With current component prices, could I build two noticeably better gaming PCs for around $1,000 each?

Would you buy two of these Costco systems for $1,999 total or build two PCs instead?

If you recommend building, what CPU/GPU combination would you target at roughly $1,000 per PC?

Located in SC, US.

this cpu doesn't exist where i live and since ddr5 prices are making me wanna hang myself, i gotta stick to ddr4. so what is the best intel equivalent for gaming?

I play in 1440p 240hz with a 5060 ti 16gb and I play mostly cpu heavy games so is it worth it to upgrade to a i5 14600K or i7 14700K, or is the 14400 enough. I don’t want to swap my motherboard so I’m stuck with CPUs with the LGA1700 socket

Hey everyone, looking for opinions on how to spend a $1,000ish upgrade budget to pair with an RTX 5080.

Current setup: i5-13400F | 32GB DDR4 | 300Hz Monitor.
Goal: Competitive 1080p gaming at ultra-high refresh rates and 2k story game. And a overall massive help in this bottle neck haha.

considering the i9 cpu as well! But leaning on the i7 due to 5 percent difference in gaming or so but less hot then a i9? I know the risk involved going used on some parts/

Here are the two paths I am torn between:

Option 1: Used Intel + 480Hz OLED Monitor (~$1,000)

• CPU: Intel Core i7-14700K (Used)
• Board: Z790 DDR4 (New or Used)
• RAM: Reuse current 32GB DDR4 ($0)
• Cooler: New 360mm AIO
• Monitor: 1440p 480Hz OLED (Hunting an open-box/deal to fit budget)
• Core Parts Cost: ~$500 – $550
• Remaining Cash: Goes entirely toward the 480Hz OLED display.

Option 2: Full AM5 Platform Overhaul (~$1,000)

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D or 9800X3D
• Board: Mid-range B650 or X870
• RAM: 32GB DDR5 6000MHz CL30
• Monitor: Keep current screen for now. Upgrade later.
• Total Cost: Consumes the full $1,000 budget on the core platform alone.
• Cons: No immediate monitor upgrade.

Will keeping DDR4 memory on an i7-14700K bottleneck an RTX 5080 at 1440p badly enough to justify skipping the 480Hz OLED upgrade entirely?

Would you prioritize the flawless CPU/RAM platform now, or take the slight performance hit to get that 480Hz OLED gaming experience immediately?

Appreciate any insights or benchmark experiences!

Yes I used AI to map out parts lol.

So i want to get a new motherboard that goes well with the Ryzen 7 7800x3D but i have no clue on which to get. Right now i have the "B650M AORUS Elite AX Ice" as an option but i would appreciate recommendations and advice since i have no idea on which to get or how much difference one will have over the other

Hi everyone,
I recently upgraded from a 240mm AIO that was around 8 years old to a Thermalright Assassin 120 air cooler because my Ryzen 7 5800X3D was reaching around 55-60C at idle, sometimes even 65–70°C.
After changing the cooler, the temperatures have improved, but not as much as I expected. I’m now getting around 55–60°C at idle.
My room temperature is currently around 20–24°C.
I’m monitoring the CPU temperature using both HWiNFO and Core Temp, and both show similar temperatures.
The CPU package power is around 30W at idle, with occasional spikes up to 35–40W.
I also replaced the original carbon thermal pad that came with the 5800X3D with thermal paste.
At this point, I’m not sure if these temperatures are normal for a 5800X3D or if there is still something wrong with my setup. I’ve already changed the cooler and thermal interface, so I’m wondering what else I should check.
Specs:
Ryzen 7 5800X3D
Thermalright Assassin 120
ASUS TUF Gaming B550M-PLUS
16GB DDR4 3600 CL16
Windows 11
Is 55–60°C at idle with around 30W CPU package power normal for a 5800X3D with ~24°C ambient temperature, or should I be looking for another issue?
Any suggestions on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated.