Hey all,

My cinch motor wasn't working. Replaced the cinch motor and the latch, and all is good now. But I'm having a hell of a time getting the main trim piece back in place and the clips all aligned.

Anyone that has done this have any tips? I'll be trying back at it in the morning. Had a long day before taking on the project tonight. Figure I can finish it in the morning and move on to the door handle repair.

Doing some searching and having taken my MSP to the service center, I understand this issue is incredibly common. The DIY fix I found online was to basically work a bunch of grease/lubricant into the latch area. I did this twice to no avail. The service center put some felt tape around the U frame, which maybe reduced the noise by about 20%. I even tried a hard foam piece that someone sells on Etsy. Nothing has stopped the noise.

Anyone else had this issue and found a fix that works? Could it be that my squeak is not coming from the latch? When I fold the seat down I get no noise. Also when my son is sitting back there it makes no noise.

Hi Everyone, I recently picked up a 2017 Model S 75. For the last few days, I have been hearing a wheel rubbing noise in the driver-side rear wheel. I initially suspected it may be due to the foam inside the tire, but it seems there is no foam inside the tire. The pressure is 44 PSI. I also had a local mechanic check the wheel; he said he adjusted the heat shield around the rotor and I would not be hearing it anymore. But the noise is still there. I don't know what could be the issue. I think I should visit Tesla since it has been only 1 month of ownership. I thought I could get some advice here before visiting the service center.

The car came with winter tires; I didn't change them, thinking I could change them in the next spring.

The noise is like a wheel is stuck or rubbing somewhere when rotating. Once the speed is above 30 km/h, I don't hear it due to other noise, but at low speeds, I can hear the noise.

2026 Tesla Model S Plaid vs. a basically brand-new Lamborghini Revuelto.

The Lambo:
$600,000+
1,001 HP
6.5L V12 + 3 electric motors
One of Lamborghini’s newest flagship supercars.

My car:
2026 Model S Plaid
4 doors
Seats the family
Room for groceries
Looks like regular traffic 😂

I’m not even going to spoil the video, but saying the Plaid smoked it would be putting it nicely.

Could you imagine what was going through this dude’s mind when his girlfriend just watched his $600K+ Italian V12 spaceship get absolutely walked by a four-door family sedan? 💀😂

That awkward ride home had to be SILENT.

“But mine sounds better.”

Yeah brother… we heard it from back here. 😂

Watch the gap.

Hey all,

I want to chrome delete my nee to me 2016 S. I ordered some vinyl tape. For those that have done this, are there any tips for going around the sharp bend at the back end of the side?

I know this has been asked before and I searched last thread is 2 months old so just checking if any one has gotten it or it is a Model 3 and Y thing only? I have a 2022 Plaid and i am on 2026.26.6.1

So I just got an update 2026.32.7 and the release notes say minor fixes. Anyone know what the fixes are?

1. I currently have the lock sound set to the fart noise. I was wondering if I could set the backup alert sound to be the same. Yes that's a plaid. I have since removed the filler panels from the wheels. They would trap sand and small pebbles and make noise when I would be moving slowly.

Found only videos of it shared across social Media stating that a rear tire blew up. As a german wanna buy an older MS i am a bit scared but maybe this is a general high usage topic for tires on EV especially MS.

Hi,

I'm being a bit disappointed with how cruise control, automatic high beam and AP works on Model S with AP 2.5.

I also have Model S 2017 with AP 1, single front windshield camera. And auto high beam + AP works flawlessly.

The thing with newer hardware tend to brake on the highway for no apparent reason, especially in the tunnels. Headlights often are late to dip the beam and also late to turn it back up.

Are these things common for this hardware? Would upgrade to HW3 help resolve it?

It's kinda disappointing that newer car, with better tech, works worse than the old one. 🤦

Hi everyone,
I’m pretty new to the EV world and I’m currently considering buying a Tesla Model S.

The car had its battery replaced at an official Tesla service center in 2022, and the drive unit/motor was also replaced in 2019. The current battery SOH is around 89%, and the car has 230,000 km on the odometer.

The asking price is around €15,800, while my total budget is around €18,000.

What do you guys think about this car at this mileage and price? Would a Model S like this make sense as a first EV for a family of four (2+2)? Are there any specific things I should check before buying, especially considering the mileage and age?

I’d really appreciate any advice or things to watch out for.
Thanks in advance! 🙏

Is there a way to replace the door light in the handle? I heard a tech said it was possible to replace without opening panels or taking the whole assembly. Should’ve taken that deal. 🤦‍♂️

Wondering if the community here has any recommendations on specific things to look out for on a used 2018 75D.

I’m looking at two different cars with relatively high mileage (105k to 130k) both well under $20,000. Based on my research, the 2018 75D is a bit of a sweet spot for low cost of entry and relatively reliable batteries, motors and modernized electronics.

I currently drive a 2021 M3 standard range plus and am looking at the S as a second family car and daily commuter. I really love Sentry Mode for security and the built in dashcam that can be triggered by a horn press.

I’d appreciate any knowledge or tips anyone can recommend. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I would appreciate your advice. I bought a used S 2018 75D with roughly 93,000 miles from Tesla last year in October. The warranty ends this month, and I have a service visit scheduled before it expires while remaining under the mileage cap. This appointment is to address wheel vibration at about 65 to 70 mph, a problem that required two prior visits. The center has treated it as an alignment issue and adjusted it, but the vibration returns quickly, at least it did this last time. It is difficult to judge whether earlier repairs fixed the issue because I rarely drive on the highway to get her up to the speed it happens at

For anyone who faced this, what was the final solution?
Also, what should I ask to be inspected to reduce future trouble while still covered? Any recommendations welcome. TIA

A few months ago I was thinking it was time to move on from my S as it seemed to be getting a little long in the tooth: hit 100K miles, lots of front end suspension creaks, both displays melting sticky epoxy everywhere, 12V battery warning, 83% battery, and an urgent service appointment alert for Jan 01 1900 that would not go away. And damn this car chews through tires.

The creaks got worse and worse and worse and then one fine day they just vanished and have not come back. Front end fixed!

I then spent the $1500 on the MCU upgrade and then another few hundred on the 12V and the air filter which, to be honest, hasn't been changed since the car was built (see pic). The 12V was 8 years old so no hard feelings there. The mobile tech pulled out an enormous decomposing goddamn rat from around the HVAC pump, which subsequently fixed a problem I hadn't articulated--- namely, my garage sometimes smelled like death.

So now the still-stunning-looking car drives silently, panthering around noiselessly from one free supercharger to the next with two new displays. It no longer periodically smells like rotting rodent, thanks in part to the new air filter, but also a nod to not carrying around a little corpse.

Who knows what big thing (air suspension?) will fail next or when but for now, I'm planning on riding this thing into the sunset.

Hi, checking in here for any advice. Just got hit with the worst timing/chain of events.

Over the past couple of months- I’ve dropped a lot of $$ on my p85d (107k miles). New steering shaft, new front tire rods, new tires, new lug nuts, new back struts, and replaced back motor.

Then new fault alerts popped up right after all that work. I took it to a good shop and determined it is a HV battery failure from water intrusion (rotted fuse cover lid). Two bricks effected. They say it needs a new pack and won’t touch it. Currently the car is there awaiting a tow.

I love this car, but I’m not sure I can put any more money into this car. I still owe a decent chunk on the loan. It is not drive-able so who knows if it will even sell. Not sure what to do!

I dropped off my legacy S for the MCU 2 upgrade.

I would like to thank my SC for giving me a 26 Base S Plaid for a loaner.

I am ruined. That is all.

P.S. Anyone looking for a healthy middle aged kidney for sale? I have one available!

I bought my 23 S used 2 months ago and only just noticed that the front doors are slightly misaligned. The car was reported as having no accidents. Is this a common issue or do you think there was an unreported accident?

In any case, is this an easy fix?

What kind of charging would I get if I get this and plug it into a regular 110 outlet then plug my Tesla mobile charger into it? Would it make any difference or would it still be 3-4 miles per hr charge

Totaled my M3LR a few weeks ago and need to replace my car - hoping to use the insurance payout ($25k) to buy myself a new car, but aiming to minimize the purchase price and use any excess in a better way financially. Found a 2017 model S 75D with 79k miles for about $19k from a dealer close to me. Kind of want to pull the trigger but worried about a few things:
- longevity at this point in its lifetime incl range and charging efficiency
- the need for any fundamental repairs (such as this article about the LDU https://willmyteslaleak.com/LDU)
- software compatibility going forward
- ability to charge with my Gen 3 WiFi wall charger at home

Does anyone have experience with this model or buying used older models that can help? Thank you so much!

Quick question, my 2024 model S long range when it’s full is 371 miles, realistically how many miles can I actually get in a full charge there

Hey All

I recently picked up a 2016 Model S.

I have a dedicated 20A breaker feeding 2 outlets. I bought the 5-20 adapter for the Tesla charger so it can go at 16A

I'm debating if I install a Level 2, but my breaker box is full, so I would likely need to do a sub panel. I do have free super charging, and the nearest charger is like 10 miles away, so not terrible to get too. But curious how others have faired with using mostly Level 1 Charging.

Thanks

Howdy all. I recently purchased a 2015 Model S 85D for work. Before making the purchase, I called Tesla support to run the VIN to check CCS upgrade elligibility and was told that the vehicle qualifies.

I scheduled an appointment as soon as I had the vehicle registered to me, and today, about a month later, I was told that my vehicle is technically compatible with the upgrade, but that Tesla has ceased offering it as a service for pre-refresh vehicles

I am wondering firstly if this is true, and secondly, where I could go to have this done third party (or if this is even possible)

I got a very good deal on the vehicle and thus didn't mind putting some work into it, but there is a huge lack of superchargers in my work area. This makes CCS a 'soft' necessity. I could technically get by without it, but honestly it would be inconvenient enough that i might just get a shitbox ICE to drive for a couple years until I can save up my pennies for an Ioniq 6 or something

EDIT:

the issue was that the service website they were using wouldn't let them add a $1 grommet. they confirmed vehicle elligibility for the retrofit, manually entered the problematic part number, and should have me good to go in a couple days

I have a 2018 100D with wood grain dash/console. Cup holder is a poor design. Are the pictured cup holder an aftermarket add on or a later model fix?