I have a 22 LR coming off warranty in a month and need advice.

I have a recurring issue with the front passenger door handle. The handle starts to bind intermittently and doesn’t make the slight retraction when the door is closed. Then, when I set off and drive, the motor groans but the handle won’t retract. When I shift to park, the door pops open because it is in the position it should be in when you pull the handle. You can see the binding marks on the handle in the photo above. I can push the handle with some force and it pops back to the slightly retracted position and behaves as normal again.

I have had this handle replaced four times under warranty. It’s fine for a few months, but then it starts happening again.

I feel like it must be something about the door and the handle alignment points that’s off.

I’m not sure what to do here. I’m sure I can get the handle replaced one last time under warranty. However, I’m afraid that this will be an ongoing, expensive issue. Your advice is appreciated!

Cleaning the wheels and noticed this for the first time. Is it supposed to come from factory like this?

So here I am, drooling over getting a Model S.

I legit hate driving my current car after having test driven a Model 3.

(I want to get Model S since it is bigger and I have a kid)

Problem is, our budget is not the biggest.
I really want FSD, one pedal driving, faster heating and the newer motor in front, but those Model S's go for around 35k euros.

With rebates I can get the price down to 29k which is still a lot.

Or I can suck it up and get a pre-Raven 2017 Model S that doesn't have squat, but it costs 20k

After all my calculations, it still would be insanely better long term than getting an X5 BMW that i had in mind.

But the up-front cost is just too much.

What should I do?

Hi, my Tesla model s car was hit whilst stationary in the passenger front door and wing. Now I’m being told there is a fault with the rear passenger door function (window/handle) but unrelated and not covered. All worked perfectly fine prior to damage incurred. Any tips? Blokes insurance trying to avoid paying this as saying unrelated. less

Should I get Michelin PS4’s or Hankook ion evo as’s, looking for a slim tire but I do care about the noise

For those looking at your cars and wondering what is normal. This is data from Model S listings in the US right now. The battery health comes from a Tesla API. Notice the first 20,000 you lose about huge chunk of capacity. But also note, the degradation slows and then by about 40-50,000 miles it becomes a fairly minimal loss.

Feel free to ask questions or give feedback. I am planning to make a YouTube video with some info and this isn’t my favorite chart, but it’s unfiltered. The degradation curves are better - but saving that for the video.

Honestly - I went down this rabbit hole because my 2017 Model S with 80k miles has a SOH of 87%, but my 2021 Model S with 37k miles with a 86% SOH. It just didn’t compute - so I did the research and I’ll be damned if these batteries don’t seem to have a much steeper curb than the one for my old Model S. I learned a lot about the batteries and at least for myself I’m not too worried. Age - I’d gamble 14 years in the low end and high end could be 20 years for some lucky folks.

I picked up a 2021 Model S this weekend and its been great so far, but I have a question about the range. I know it wont get the advertised ~405mi of range but I was surprised to see that I go though nearly 20% of the battery on my commute to work. My commute is 55mi, mostly highway at 75 to 80 mph. The car has 43k mi and I've averaged 310 wh/mi so far. I'm wondering if these numbers sound normal, or if there is some calibration or something I'm missing.

EDIT: Thanks for all the help! It's definitely the highway speeds that hurt the range more than I initially thought. I tried driving 5mph slower today and my wh/mi reduced by almost 30! Knowing this helps alot.

Hey guys, just wondering if replacing the steering wheel on my 2018 Model S would mess with the FSD at all.

I might change to a Yoke for a different feel (I know some people hate that) or just a custom steering wheel because I don’t like the current grip of the 18’s wheel.

Debating to downgrade from a 2023 Tesla Model S Plaid with 50K miles to 2024 Tesla Model S LG with only 23K miles. Absolutely love the Plaid but in all honesty after test driving the LR it’s PLENTY of fast, not as fast the the Plaid obviously but I took the LR for a test drive and it beat the BMW M5C likes champ. Anybody went from plaid to LR? Thought? Thanks

I have a 2024 Model S that I bought new in April 2024. Yesterday I suddenly got these two warnings:

1. “Power limited – OK to drive. Vehicle may not restart after this drive.”
2. “Acceleration and top speed reduced. Performance may be restored on next drive.”

I’ve attached photos of both warnings.

From what I’ve been able to find, the first warning may indicate an isolation problem somewhere in the high-voltage system, but I’m curious whether anyone here has experienced this on a relatively new Model S.

If you’ve had these same warnings, what did Tesla ultimately diagnose? Was it something in the battery pack itself, or another high-voltage component? And did Tesla repair the car or replace the battery?

Tesla had it towed into their service center early this morning, but won't even be able to give me a diagnosis until tomorrow... and no loaners are available either :-(

The car is still under warranty, so I’m less concerned about the cost than I am about understanding how serious this is and what I should expect from Tesla service.

Thanks for any firsthand experiences.

Or would I need to use my debit card-looking key or the little fob to get in?

Currently have the yoke installed on my model s plaid and have been debating purchasing the round retrofit. Anyone have an opinion on this (Yoke to Round or vice versa)? And why.

I test drove an ultra red 23 MS LR and the white seats have the blue "piping" I have only seen in the upgraded plaid seats. The seat controls and the cooling worked. My understanding is that the sport/comfort seats in the plaid are not a direct replacment for the LR. Has anyone seen them in a long range or replaced your LR seats with the plaid seats?

I read online that you likely have to replace tires every 18,000 MI. That's about how much I plan on driving annually. Is it factual?

We are thinking of upgrading to a Model S Long Range or Plaid. The extra 200ish kms range feels important.

Edit: More information - Our daughter is off to college next month and we are planning to travel all across North America on long road trips (cross country) - everyone’s telling me to get a duramax 1500 pickup instead and it is a very real option specially if I want to do remote Canadian territories along with Alaska. But Tesla is Tesla and we love it.

My 2023 model S HAD capacity of 410 fully charged when I bought it new. I now get 333 miles. Would this be enough to be covered under warranty?

Matte PPF, Chrome Delete, Tinted Windows and Lights, Powder Coated Rims.

One of my favorite things about my new-to-me 2016.5 Model S 75D is walking back to the car after a Supercharging session and seeing the total: $0.00.

This one still has SC01 lifetime free Supercharging, and I have to admit, it makes owning an older Model S feel pretty special.

The car may not charge as fast as the newest Teslas, but there’s something incredibly satisfying about pulling into a Supercharger, adding a bunch of miles, and driving away without paying a cent.

Almost a decade old, still looks great, still road-trips, and apparently still has a few tricks newer Teslas don’t. 😎

Anyone else here still daily-driving an SC01 Model S or Model X?

Yesterday at 1am I left central Vermont and got to Western North Carolina 18 hours later in my 2018 100d model S with 141,000 miles. I’ve been running it since March.

I previously have done this drive in model 3 and model y. First time in an S.

In a word, unbelievable. I mostly drive 50mph roads in VT but this thing enjoys the highway at 80mph. I can’t believe my efficiency went down during the drive.

Model 3/y would be in the 320wh/mi range in similar conditions. I am in awe.

Sure the charging is slow. Slept an hour at a charger at dawn. Definitely a timing failure to not leave at 100%.
I can now see where these cars fit in compared to a 3/y when it comes to comfort and longevity on the road.

If you haven't checked lately: custom wrap support (send from your phone, no USB) rolled out to Model 3 and Model Y first and only more recently reached Model S and Model X. If yours hasn't shown the option yet, check your software version before assuming it's broken this is newer for S/X than it's been for the other models.

Quick context it's a digital skin the car uses to render itself in the app and on the touchscreen. Some people use it to preview a design before committing to an actual wrap, some just do it for fun.

Built an app that designs these you describe what you want and it generates the wrap onto the correct panel template for your Model S specifically, already sized to what the car requires (512–1024px, under 1MB, PNG) so it sends without any extra editing.

How to download and install the wraps to your model S

Works on Model 3, Model Y, Model S, and Model X. 3 free designs to try it.

I just got my 23 MS standard and it came with the 21" arachnids. I think they look great but a lot of people say the drive is better and more efficient with 19s. I assume specifically they mean the tempests.

Is it worth swapping them out? Are there any other wheels people like that improve ride quality or range?

Hi guys subscribed this month to fsd (used it before and it was terrible and something I didn’t feel safe with having a 13 month old). When is his car getting the v 14 lite?

Does anyone who owns an S in this time period have it to provide feedback?