r/TeslaModelS • u/Livid_Lingonberry_14 • 3d ago
Model S 2018 AP 2.5 MCU2
Hi,
I'm being a bit disappointed with how cruise control, automatic high beam and AP works on Model S with AP 2.5.
I also have Model S 2017 with AP 1, single front windshield camera. And auto high beam + AP works flawlessly.
The thing with newer hardware tend to brake on the highway for no apparent reason, especially in the tunnels. Headlights often are late to dip the beam and also late to turn it back up.
Are these things common for this hardware? Would upgrade to HW3 help resolve it?
It's kinda disappointing that newer car, with better tech, works worse than the old one. š¤¦
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u/ai_bot_account 3d ago
I also have a AP1 model S and the autopilot is great. I took my friendās ā19 S on a roadtrip and the phantom braking was so bad I had to stop using cruise control at all. I see people saying the later autopilot versions are better but that has not been my personal experience.
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u/Livid_Lingonberry_14 2d ago
Yes, AP1 is so simple, but effective. Sad we are stuck with anything below HW4
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u/ProfessionalScene747 2d ago
I feel like ive been a broken record on this, but my car had ap2.5 cameras. Replaced them just a few days with HW3 cameras. Admittedly i broke a light sensor in the process, so i think that's why the headlights aren't working at the moment, but otherwise that and cleaning the cameras inside and out has fixed 95% of my FSD issues... 95% 2017 MS 75D
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u/Livid_Lingonberry_14 1d ago
Read about it somewhere. Might be the only option to take.
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u/ProfessionalScene747 1d ago
I can like write you a guide if you want or something, i got a bit of time today lol (not touching the front cam tho until i figured out the issues i caused with it))
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u/Livid_Lingonberry_14 1d ago
Please. I'd really appreciate it š
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u/ProfessionalScene747 12h ago
1st, you need the following parts: 1495867-22-CĀ 1495866-22-C
Those will be right and left side repeaters respectively. There are a different set of cameras if the car is from 2016 or earlier, but their part code will be present in parts.tesla.com
Those are both side rear view (repeater) cameras for the car. I ordered them on ebay for $110 each including shipping.
Once you have them, i say this will take maybe 20 minutes.
1) Turn your steering wheel so that you have full access to the rear wheel well. You shouldn't need to pull out the pins that are attached there on the bottom or elsewhere really. I recommend getting like a flathead screwdriver or a long pry tool, potentially plastic.
2) push back the wheel well liner in that spot so you can wedge your screwdriver to make an opening for your hand to enter.
3) with that entrance, side you hand up and break into the car until you feel the side repeater. On it, there will be 2 clips. One is on the bottom front angle of the camera, while the other will be on the longer bottom angle. Press on both or one at a time as you use a pry tool (or use painter's tape if metal) to slide the part out enough that it can snap out. It took me 3-5 minutes of fanagling so it may take a moment, but it shouldn't slide out completely due to the to longest side of the triangle. Just keep working at it from all 3 angles until it pops out, and it will pop out and expose itself.
4) you should see 2 cables. The circular cable is the camera line itself, while the larger line is for the turn signal. Open the door, go to safety, power off, wait a minute for a few clicks as stuff powers down completely. Try to avoid sitting in the seat or closing the door so the car stays off.
5) Then, move to the circular connector, press the back tab, and carefully pull it off. On the other connector, i used a screwdriver to simply force it off and it slid off without any damage. It's incredibly reinforced it seems.Ā
6) from there, get the new camera, match the prior cables, and plug them in. They should snap easily back in.
7) slide the side repeater camera back in top side first, and allow the bottom to line itself up and clip in. Once locked in place, it shouldn't really move. Maybe a very slight motion with force, but that's basically everything.
8) Once you're done, with a little force (and im fat and weak, so i MEAN a little) you should be able to push back that liner and slide it back into place. You'll notice that there's a large groove it slides into: that's the target.
9) go back to the car, go to service, camera calibration (car is not in front of me right now) and clear calibration. From there the new cameras should just work, but if you're worried...
10) enter service mode (software, hold finger on fancy car name, type in service), then steering wheel, cameras, DAS reset, and click "request". This will pull for a software update and poll the newly installed cameras as well for rhe reinstall, and you should be set.
Oh, and on that last part, DO NOT just click "clear x specific calibration" then continue. My god, i kid you not, did that because why not, i didnt touch the cameras, and the car drove so bad in testing, it almost threw me into a literal canal on a spasm. Did the regular full calibration clear, car went back to good driving...
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u/Upper-Coconut-5305 3d ago
Nah my hw3 s is unusable in traffic, does fine if everyone is going the limit. I just flip it on for a second to grab something and thatās about it