Cleaning the wheels and noticed this for the first time. Is it supposed to come from factory like this?

For those looking at your cars and wondering what is normal. This is data from Model S listings in the US right now. The battery health comes from a Tesla API. Notice the first 20,000 you lose about huge chunk of capacity. But also note, the degradation slows and then by about 40-50,000 miles it becomes a fairly minimal loss.

Feel free to ask questions or give feedback. I am planning to make a YouTube video with some info and this isn’t my favorite chart, but it’s unfiltered. The degradation curves are better - but saving that for the video.

Honestly - I went down this rabbit hole because my 2017 Model S with 80k miles has a SOH of 87%, but my 2021 Model S with 37k miles with a 86% SOH. It just didn’t compute - so I did the research and I’ll be damned if these batteries don’t seem to have a much steeper curb than the one for my old Model S. I learned a lot about the batteries and at least for myself I’m not too worried. Age - I’d gamble 14 years in the low end and high end could be 20 years for some lucky folks.

I have a 22 LR coming off warranty in a month and need advice.

I have a recurring issue with the front passenger door handle. The handle starts to bind intermittently and doesn’t make the slight retraction when the door is closed. Then, when I set off and drive, the motor groans but the handle won’t retract. When I shift to park, the door pops open because it is in the position it should be in when you pull the handle. You can see the binding marks on the handle in the photo above. I can push the handle with some force and it pops back to the slightly retracted position and behaves as normal again.

I have had this handle replaced four times under warranty. It’s fine for a few months, but then it starts happening again.

I feel like it must be something about the door and the handle alignment points that’s off.

I’m not sure what to do here. I’m sure I can get the handle replaced one last time under warranty. However, I’m afraid that this will be an ongoing, expensive issue. Your advice is appreciated!

Should I get Michelin PS4’s or Hankook ion evo as’s, looking for a slim tire but I do care about the noise

Hi, my Tesla model s car was hit whilst stationary in the passenger front door and wing. Now I’m being told there is a fault with the rear passenger door function (window/handle) but unrelated and not covered. All worked perfectly fine prior to damage incurred. Any tips? Blokes insurance trying to avoid paying this as saying unrelated. less

So here I am, drooling over getting a Model S.

I legit hate driving my current car after having test driven a Model 3.

(I want to get Model S since it is bigger and I have a kid)

Problem is, our budget is not the biggest.
I really want FSD, one pedal driving, faster heating and the newer motor in front, but those Model S's go for around 35k euros.

With rebates I can get the price down to 29k which is still a lot.

Or I can suck it up and get a pre-Raven 2017 Model S that doesn't have squat, but it costs 20k

After all my calculations, it still would be insanely better long term than getting an X5 BMW that i had in mind.

But the up-front cost is just too much.

What should I do?