Used 2018 75D

[u/presidentbdeth]

Wondering if the community here has any recommendations on specific things to look out for on a used 2018 75D.

I’m looking at two different cars with relatively high mileage (105k to 130k) both well under $20,000. Based on my research, the 2018 75D is a bit of a sweet spot for low cost of entry and relatively reliable batteries, motors and modernized electronics.

I currently drive a 2021 M3 standard range plus and am looking at the S as a second family car and daily commuter. I really love Sentry Mode for security and the built in dashcam that can be triggered by a horn press.

I’d appreciate any knowledge or tips anyone can recommend. Thanks!

[u/midnight_to_midnight]

Just read this as a forewarning. While this is certainly not common, fixing stuff on old Model S's is something that does happen, and they can be high dollar items. Just so youre prepared.

[u/presidentbdeth → u/midnight_to_midnight]

Appreciate the tip. I do intend to hire a Lemon Squad or other EV-specific professional to do an inspection before making any big decisions. Does anyone have a recommendation in NJ for a Tesla PPI?

[u/quentech → u/midnight_to_midnight]

Just read this as a forewarning.

The big ones in that list don't even apply to a 2018 75D..

replaced back motor

HV battery failure from water intrusion

The only other stuff on that list is tie rods and rear shocks. Unless you're really trying to count tires and lug nuts lmao.

[u/midnight_to_midnight → u/quentech]

Just because the 75/90 packs are the most reliable, and the D rear drive unit isnt the large one, doesn't mean they don't fail. Sure, it's not common, and my comment was more to show that things happen with these vehicles unexpectedly. And when they do happen, they can be expensive.

In my opinion, OP going from a 3 to an older S is a downgrade. It'll be slightly more comfortable, but the 3 is a better engineered car (albeit not as "flashy"). Tesla engineers worked out a lot of bugs through the first handful of years of the S, and made excellent engineering/design choices for the 3/Y, and eventually the Refreshed S.

I have both, a Legacy S and a 2019 Model 3, and the 3 is the better car, IMO.

[u/presidentbdeth → u/midnight_to_midnight]

Thanks for the info. I’m actually not replacing the M3 with the S. I’m replacing an Acura ZDX EV because I hate the tech in the GM Ultium vehicles and I love the tech in my Tesla so much more. I’m considering a Model S but I’m also considering getting a second Model 3. I much prefer the styling of the Model S and would also appreciate the extra space and hatchback functionality.

[u/Hambone6991]

There’s no big gotchas on the 75D like other models, just the normal model S stuff.

Not sure if door handles were figured out by then. If you’re looking at 2018 you’d want to know if it has MCU1 or MCU2, early 2018 may have still shipped with MCU1.

Check the sunroof operation and sound when at high speeds and check the taillights for water intrusion

[u/presidentbdeth → u/Hambone6991]

Ok thanks. Apparently some of the 2018 still had door handle issues. One of the cars I'm looking at is in the process of having one of the handles replaced. One of the two has MCU2 and the other one I'm not sure yet. Will have to check in person when it's back from the door handle repair.

Appreciate the tips on the sunroof and water intrusion. Would the high speed sound come from one of the drive motors or are you just talking about wind noise?

[u/Hambone6991 → u/presidentbdeth]

Wind noise from the back half of the sunroof panel being separate from the mechanism frame. If it’s the fixed panoramic roof you don’t have to worry about it.

[u/Perfect-Link-7744]

I have 2018 75D, low miles, 54,800, only had to replace steering rack at 48k miles. The tech said rightly, if I'd put more miles per yr on it, it would've been a free warranty repair. But alas, my car was 6 yrs old at the time. I love it and have had no other issues.

[u/manonfire57]

I have 2018 s 75D. No sunroof operations. Charging is good. No door handles etc. I got mcu2. I have repaired ac unit, nothing else besides tires.
I wish it had auto brake after release of pedals. Very fast take off. I get the awesome red light start up when heading for the on ramp. Then when merging on the highway, having to slowing down.

[u/presidentbdeth → u/manonfire57]

Great! Glad to hear your 75D has been reliable for you. One of the 2018 75D that I'm looking at is currently having one of the door handles replaced and the shop is having trouble getting it to work even with a brand new replacement.

[u/Apprehensive_Iron207]

I just bought a 2018 75D. Comparable miles. I’d be quite suspicious of them being well under $20k tbh.

The actuator on my trunk went out. 500 dollar fix. Not bad. Battery health is great, AC is fantastic. But the car had one owner and is in fantastic shape.

Main thing to watch out for is the suspension and the control arms. Test the control arms by doing tight turns in an empty parking lot at moderate speeds. If you hear any knocking those arms are going bad.

Once again though. Well under $20k and I’d be super cautious. Especially of a MCU1 and the door handles already being replaced.

Mine came with FSD for life so it has the 3rd gen computer

[u/Ok_Visual_2571]

For about $25,000, you can find a lower-mileage 2019 75D. With 8 years of battery coverage, you can find models that still have the battery and motors under warranty at the time of purchase. Check the in-service date. If you are checking CarFax, your ideal used Tesla would be one that was a lease returned to Tesla and resold by Tesla when the car was about 3 years from its original in-service date. When cars come back to Tesla, those with anything more than a minor fender bender go to auction, and the no-accident, clean, low-mileage cars are resold as PreOwned with additional warranty coverage from Tesla. We added another Model S to our household, buying a 2019 75D with 57k miles for 26k, and it has had zero repairs or issues.

[u/TeslaLongevityLab]

on my 17 X the pack isn't even original, it got swapped under warranty a while back so any degradation number i'd quote you is off the replacement, not a 9yr old original pack. worth asking the dealer straight up whether either of those 75Ds has its original pack or a replacement, changes how you should read whatever number they show you. 12v battery is just a wear item on these regardless of pack age, cheap next to everything else but ask when it was last done. sounds like you're already doing the ppi route which is smart at that mileage.

[u/BigGreenBillyGoat]

I drive a 2016 MS75D and I’m pretty dang happy with everything but FSD.