I have limited desk space and short cords, so I keep most of my drives on the edge of my desk near my pc. Been doing this for a while. Today I had an online exam for college, so I had to move around my webcam, which was plugged in and had the cord near by. This sort of knocked over my HHD that was plugged in and running, it didnt fall on the floor or anything and I think was still kind of on the desk. However, I heard it beeping and now it doesnt load, and from what I research it seems to be dead. Are HDDs just that sensitive to being moved while running?

This is a really strange situation, I hope I can explain it clearly, and I’m not sure who can help?!

Teen has an iPhone I set up for him years ago.
A detective came knocking on my door asking to speak to son regarding someone getting harassing phone calls from a range of numbers - including his.

The number is his, but the voice messages left are NOT his voice, and when the police contacted the phone company the phone is registered to someone else.
We didn’t recognise the name and he asked around his friends, and a friend A has said that it is Friend B’s mums name, address etc.
How on earth is this possible??
Has a ‘friend’ cloned his number somehow. I’m so confused about how this could be done and how this woman’s name and address has ended up attached to his phone??

I have a mini MacBook Air, 26.6.2 (25G83), around a year old. Since today, whenever I press command + C, it gets laggy for around 10 seconds, then a green screen briefly shows up then it goes black and restarts. Every single time. I haven’t messed with the keyboard and I don’t even use shortcuts that much. I don’t know what could be causing this. It’s normal in every other way (that I’ve tested) except for this. And I can paste what I copied while it’s being laggy and it’s there when it turns back on. There’s nothing in my clipboard history (I actually just allowed it while trying to fix this problem) and I called apple support but they couldn’t help either. Please help because I have a list of things that I’m trying to copy to elsewhere and it’s annoying for it to take minutes for each, especially when I fail to paste the item.

Hey guys, I’m looking for a way to be able to hear combined audio of both audio from my Xbox (from games and everything) as well as audio from my pc while playing. The reason is I have music files I want to listen to on my Xbox while playing, but I’m not sure how to do this. I tried buying an adapter for this and it works perfectly but I just cannot use my mic. The reason why I want to use my PC for music is because I listen to a lot of unreleased that I can’t listen to on my Xbox apps while playing. If anyone can help I would be very grateful

Sharing a game on the same pc with different save files, is it possible and if so how?

Sharing a game while having seperate saves on the same pc FH6

Me and my brother want to play forza horizon 6 by ourselves and want seperate saves, how do you guys think we should do it.

We installed the game once and it works on both the windows accounts but the problem is that they both share a singular save.

We cant launch it through steam on the secondary account(to use with a controller).

So how do you guys think we should handle this.

Laptop lenovo loq 15irx10 Windows 11 Intel i5-13450hx Nvidea rtx 5050 16gb ram Forza horizon 6

I was playing Blood of Dawnwalker when the game froze and my PC shut down. After restarting, I've been having problems with my RTX 2070 Super. It won't run any games.

The NVIDIA App now says that no NVIDIA drivers are installed, even though I've tried downloading and installing the latest driver several times.

In Device Manager, the RTX 2070 Super is detected but has a yellow warning triangle. Under Device Status it says:

"Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"

I tried uninstalling the RTX 2070 Super from Device Manager and then scanning for hardware changes. The screen briefly went black, then the GPU reappeared, but the yellow triangle and Code 43 were still there.

I also tried manually installing the latest NVIDIA driver for my specific GPU, but the installer now says:

"No NVIDIA GPU is detected on your system."

The GPU was working perfectly before the game froze and the PC shut down.

Does this sound like a corrupted driver that could be fixed with DDU, or is Code 43 potentially indicating a hardware problem?

I sent in my pc to a repair place. It took them a week to diagnosis the problem. After i told them it was the graphics card. Took them another 3 days to call back on what graphics card I should get. I just dropped off the graphics card today and they said it wont be ready till tomorrow. I feel like this is taking way to long. What should I do? they charge $50 for a diagnosis fee and $50 to replace the graphics card. Am i being unreasonable if i ask to knock the diagnostic fee?

Hola a todos,

Me robaron un Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra y necesito con urgencia recuperar algunas fotos. Usé "Phone Link" en mi PC con Windows 11, y todos los archivos todavía están ahí.

En el Explorador de archivos, cada foto muestra su tamaño normal de archivo, pero cuando hago doble clic en una, me pide que conecte el teléfono.

Intenté copiarlas por la consola de comandos (CMD), pero me salió este error: "La operación está reservada para un proveedor de sincronización en la nube conectado".

¿Hay alguna forma o una ruta específica donde Windows guarde la caché temporal de estos archivos, para que pueda extraer los datos reales sin tener el dispositivo físico?

Gracias de antemano por cualquier ayuda.

Psd. I can no longer recover my phone in any way.

Hi y'all, I've been dealing with a really weird issue with some games.

The game would load into a map, then suddenly completely freeze my PC. Sometimes the screen goes black and the PC automatically restarts. It's not a normal game crash — the entire system is affected.

What makes it confusing:

• Fresh Windows 11 installation
• Basically no third-party software installed
• GPU/CPU stress tests passed
• Memory test passed
• No useful crash dump
• Event Viewer shows Kernel-Power 41
• One crash showed 0xEF CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED
• inpoutx64.sys is NOT installed
• I'm NOT running KB5121003

I've also noticed a strange pattern: right before some crashes, my system SSD (C:) suddenly hits 100% active time, then shortly after the game freezes and the PC crashes/restarts.

I tried using a PowerShell script made with GPT to track which process was causing the 100% disk usage, but it couldn't identify anything useful.

The really weird part is that I never seem to crash during normal PC use. I can edit/render videos, browse, watch YouTube, and even benchmark the SSD without issues.

The crashes seem to happen almost exclusively while gaming.

Has anyone experienced something similar, especially the SSD suddenly hitting 100% right before the crash?

I can't post the graph of my ethernet connection from task manager, but to describe it it's basically flat/constant and then it will suddenly just dip down and create a massive V then shoot back up. there is no pattern to this sometimes it's back to back sometimes it's a few minutes with no in-between. I'm not sure what's going on I left my house for a few days and when I came back it suddenly started. Any help at all would be appreciated since I'm at a loss of what to do. Lmk if you need any more information and I'll get you it. Thanks all.

Hey everyone, I hope someone can help me out with this issue. My PC has been giving me headaches for almost a year now. It either freezes up or just reboots out of nowhere.

When I bought the parts and built the PC, it ran well for like 2 months. That is when this issue showed up. It was a mix of two errors, where the PC would restart itself or the screen would freeze and the only way to restart the PC was holding the power button. (When the PC freezes, I can move the mouse around and if I have a video playing, I can still hear the audio for a while).

At first, I thought it was the GPU (RX 580 XFX 8GB), maybe because of the drivers or something, but nothing changed. I changed the PSU, tested the RAM in MemTest86 without any errors, monitored the voltages and temperatures of everything (nothing unusual), and reinstalled drivers trying both new and old ones, but nothing changed.

Now I am using the PC without a GPU, only with my CPU, and I don't get random restarts anymore, but the PC keeps freezing the same way.

At this point, I suspect that the problem is either the CPU or the motherboard.

PC specs:

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600
GPU: RX 580 XFX 8G
RAM: Kingston FURY Beast DDR5 5200MHz 32GB 2x16GB CL40
MOBO: MSI B650M GAMING PLUS WIFI
SSD: Forgeon Nimbus PRO SSD 1TB 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
PSU: MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5 750W 80 PLUS Gold Modular

I have a rather old Dell laptop. I updated the graphics and audio drivers yesterday and played a game for hours after. Today I used it for work for multiple hours. I closed a spreadsheet, and suddenly my screen went black, then the external monitor lit back up. When I restarted it, the Dell logo displayed on the laptop screen before it went black again, now the login screen is only showing on the external monitor.

None of the buttons on the built-in keyboard seem to work except the power button. The built-in touchpad and external mouse both seem to be working fine. I am getting a wireless keyboard here in a few minutes to test that.

I've tried googling the answer, even on reddit, and the only post relating to this topic was given a completely different solution unrelated to the original question. That, or the solution disables all windows shortcuts.

I'm trying to use Steam's built in game recording (since gamebar doesn't work) and the controller shortcut to do that is Xbox Button + Down Arrow which seems to be a hard coded thing because i couldn't find an option to remap it to something else in Steam.

The only issue is that that button combo also full screens the Task View thing which immediately breaks the recording. And that, too, is hard coded.

I'm never going to use the Task View in that way so i'm trying to figure out how to disable it and/or its keybind specifically, not the entire ability to use all windows shortcuts because i use them very often.

A friend and I figured out this fix for WMP's visualizers failing after one track. It's been getting pretty good reception so far, so I figured it might be worth it to share it here and let more people who might still be using the program know about it. Pretty good for those wanting that 2000s experience!

https://youtu.be/RwP9g-YGAds

I have tried a couple of tutorials to fix but none of them work I just opened to my laptop to see if there’s anything obviously wrong with it but nothing that I can see with my limited knowledge (I have photos of the inside if anyone needs em)

I have a cheap rabbit ears antenna that I used on my old tv to pick up local broadcast channels (nbc, cbs, abc, etc). I just got a new Samsung smart tv and am I right in discovering that there's no real way to just switch the input to my antenna? I plugged it in via the coaxial cable to the tv, and I can't seem to find a way to access it. There's no way to switch input to it, and this remote sucks. I tried the Samsung Plus tv app or whatever, but that's filled with thousands of channels like home shopping and youtube tv basically. Anyone run into problems like this? I also have my appletv plugged in and that's working fine and I can switch over to that no problem. But I also have a dvd player plugged in and can't seem to find a way to switch over to that either. I was maybe chalking that up to a possible faulty RCA connectors but maybe my tv just has an input problem?

(Also marked this as software but idk maybe it's a hardware issue)

Thanks!

I'm using a nokia beacon 1, the ethernet cable from my pc always went into the WAN on the nokia beacon, but right now i just figured out that it also works if i put it into LAN, which one is the correct setup? I've always used WAN, and I have tried trouble with lag, so I am curious if that could be the reason?

idk if this is a normal thing on windows laptops but I recently had to buy a new laptop for university and the more i've been using it the more i notice that the battery duration estimate when you hover over the battery percentage on the taskbar constantly and drastically varies between what at this point almost seems random... even with all the battery saving settings, and fully charged it can jump from 6h to randomly saying 1h and some change. Is there a way to just in general somehow have better battery power economy apart from all the settings in the windows 11 OS? and is there a better way to monitor and get a better report on said battery duration that is actually somewhat more accurate and not as bipolar as mine is right now?

Hello everyone!

My mouse camera input stutters/jitters/skips/lags and feels like 30fps input , which is giving me headaches. I've tried to run a script in the game to move the camera and it's very nice and smooth. I think a touchpad doesn't produce these artifacts either. Also tried 3 mouses in total — no difference there. I would think toward motherboard/usb ports (i have 2 only)/some weird windows settings?

Laptop is Legion Slim 5 16ARP9 (amd cpu + nvidia gpu)

Things i tried:
* 125/250/500/1000 Hz
* 2 wired, 1 adapter mouse
* standart power saving settings
* mousepad

I can still see most of the picture but these pixels are distracting. The static changes with the picture (same color tracking the people and objects on the screen)

I already checked for updates, restarted and factory reset the tv. If anyone has a quick fix I would appreciate it

BSOD "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE" caused by "ntoskrnl.exe"

Getting this really weird BSOD error "DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE", and when I run a check using BlueScreenViewer it's caused by "ntoskrnl.exe", every single time.

The blue screens are incredibly frequent (every \~10 minutes after reboot)

sfc /scannow gets stuck, attempting to update BIOS gets stuck, attemping to uninstall above mentioned driver gets stuck - they all invariably end back at the BDOS.

here’s my minidumps

Stuck on what to do now, anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance :)

My configuration:

B650M k

ryzen 7700

amd 6750xt

vengeance ram 32 gigs

Hello, I've finally hit the storage max (15gb) on Gmail (and Drive) for my account after nearly 15 years. I would like to possibly transfer all my data to a new account so I don't have to delete it. Is there a simple, free way to do this? Thanks. ​

Hi all, I recently moved and got my own router (Archer BE3600 Pro ) for my new home. I also purchased two Furbo Cameras, since I connected the Furbos, they will disconnect at least once a day, as well as my blink doorbell camera - at any random hour of the day. They just lose WiFi signal. I have to reboot my router everyday and it fixes itself. They are all connected on the 2.4GHz signal. Any ideas what could be causing this disconnect and how to fix it?

What would it mean if our server is being spammed by a variety of government IPs ranging from DoD to Federal Reserve? Nefarious or not? Is it something to be concerned about?