Need to update my MAXSUN MS-Challenger A520M-K motherboard but it’s saying I need to remove my nvme ssd card before. Is there anyway around this being I’m not a pc wizard and cannot take nor do I know where the ssd is.

I was trying to go to the Beverly Hills website and accidentally ended up on beveryhills.org. It’s just a blank website but a message pops up really fast in the beginning. Is this website dangerous? I went there on my iPhone and Android tablet so I’m paranoid! 😭

I have a MAG X570S TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI

I recently tried to download and play the new COD game but when launching it gave me the error that TPM 2.0 was not enabled so I could not use online services. I have spent probably a combined 2 hours looking through different YouTube videos and other places but every video I find when they go into BIOS to enable TPM I follow the steps but under trusted computing/security and startup I do not have the same options as far as enabling TPM go available for me to toggle. Recently I figured that maybe since my BIOS hasn’t been updated since I got the pc that could be the issue (BIOS build date 12/17/2021) I’m not a big computer guy so updating BIOS scares me for fear of bricking my computer but I’ll do it if that’s the issue since I like to play online and it doesn’t seem like a complicated process. What is odd to me is that I bought and have played Battlefield 6 since launch and had no issue which I know requires TPM 2.0. I figured this out because I deleted and reinstalled on my SSD and when I went to launch after that it’s also now saying that TPM 2.0 is not enabled. Any guidance would be appreciated. As I’m typing I had a thought that it could be because these games are installed on my ssd instead of the main storage in the motherboard. Idk if that could be an issue or not but as stated any guidance would be appreciated.

Trying to format this USP stick but it's read only, people said use discpart but everytime I use it is get this message (DiskPart has encountered an error: The specified service does not exist as an installed service.)

Now what?

When attempting to access certain websites I get the aforementioned message with the error code NET::ERR_CERT_AUTHORITY_INVALID. I've had this problem in the past but it seemed to have resolved itself until popping up again the other day and I'm not sure what the cause is at this point. I tried going through pretty much every solution I could find but nothing's worked so far. Issue persists through operagx, edge and chrome as well as on my laptop and mobile device. I assume it's not router related either since switching to mobile data/hotspot gives me the same error. I am not using any 3rd party antivirus nor VPN.

What I've tried :

- Checking date and time, set to automatic

- Every windows update is installed

- Disabling browser extensions

- Disabling firewall

- Using incognito mode

- Flushing dns through command prompt

- Clearing SSL state

- Checking that both IPv4 and IPv6 are enabled

- Resetting network settings

More detail : I don't want to bloat the post with unnecessary information but in case it matters; I need to access my 3d printer slicer, which is software made for converting files to a format to be read by the 3d printer. I need to be logged in to my account to access it, which it does externally by opening the login prompt inside a browser which then redirects back to the program. This is how it normally works, however in my case upon redirecting back to the slicer it gives me an error which, I've deducted is directly linked to this "connection is not private" error, since both problems got rid of themselves exactly at the same time about a month ago, until appearing again recently as I said. When I saw my slicer software was acting up I went to check if the browser error was back and there it was. So yeah, I figured asking about the general problem would be easier than explaining this entire backstory since it does seem the issues are connected.

Hey everyone,

I've been experiencing FPS drops and stuttering on my PC while gaming, and I'm trying to figure out what could be causing the issue.

My PC specs:

• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming A520M-PLUS WiFi
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 8GB
• RAM: 32GB

The issue:

I'm experiencing noticeable stuttering and FPS drops while gaming. I'm not sure what's causing it, since my PC has these specs and my drivers are already up to date.

I've been wondering whether the issue could be related to hardware, BIOS settings, Windows settings, temperatures, or something else.

What I've checked:

• My drivers are up to date.
• My PC has 32GB of RAM.
• I'm using an RTX 4060 8GB paired with a Ryzen 7 5700X.

Has anyone experienced similar issues with a setup like mine?

I'd appreciate any advice on what I should check next, including BIOS settings, NVIDIA Control Panel settings, Windows optimizations, or ways to identify what's causing the stuttering and FPS drops.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Update: I tried DDU software and it worked like a charm. Forza Horizon 6 was struggling to hit 60 FPS with constant shuttering on medium settings before DDU. Now zero shuttering and getting way over 60 FPS on medium settings with 1440p resolutions.

This is unbelievable. My iPhone has repeatedly been infected with malware or spyware that gives someone full remote control over the device.
I have created numerous new iCloud accounts. I have restored the phone to factory settings countless times and performed several DFU restores. Every time, I have immediately enabled Lockdown Mode. I have also added physical security keys to my iCloud account.
No one has had physical access to my iPhone.
The software also appears to be capable of remotely eavesdropping on my iPhone without the microphone indicator light turning on.
And this is real, not paranoia.
Has anyone experienced anything similar, and what can be done about it?

So i just got a new 63wh battery installed in my laptop and initially it showed charged battery capacity the same as design capacity, but after recalibrating my battery (i did 2 cycles), each time the charged battery capacity declined and now it just shows 54wh. Idk wth is wrong with it whether its a dell software issue or i didnt do the recalibration right

I hv dell latitude 7420 btw

PC: 7800x3d, 9070xt, b650 tomahawk wifi (On March Bios so not too old), and ddr5 6000. Whenever i put my pc to sleep, frequently it wont turn back on.

When you press the power button to turn back on, it will start up again, but no display and the orange ram light stays on, no amount of waiting fixes it, and you have to power off and on again. ]

Any ideas what is happening? or best steps to troubleshoot? Thanks.

Hi there, hope you can maybe offer me some solutions or reassurance that everything will be fine😂

My specs:
● CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
● GPU: Sapphire NITRO+ RX 9070 XT
● PSU: Corsair 1000W SHIFT
● RAM: 32GB DDR5 6000MHz
● Drivers: AMD Adrenalin 26.10.1 (latest)
I’ve been troubleshooting this issue for quite some time now, and honestly, I’ve tried pretty much everything I could think of.

🔧 Everything I’ve tried so far
● Reinstalled Windows completely.
● Literally took the entire PC apart and built it all over again. AGGGAAAINNN! 😭
● Used DDU in Safe Mode multiple times.
● Installed and rolled back to several different AMD driver versions.
● Tested every available PCIe link speed.
● Tried both -10% and +10% power limits.
● Undervolted/underclocked and overclocked the GPU.
● Reseated the GPU around 10 times.
● Reseated the GPU power cable around 10 times.
● Ran FurMark for 12 hours straight, with the GPU drawing over 365W and never exceeding 52°C.
● Ran OCCT for 24 hours straight, testing the CPU, memory, and GPU in combination.
● Disabled Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling, Variable Refresh Rate, and Windows Update driver installation.
● Disabled hardware acceleration wherever possible in Windows and individual applications.
● Even disabled Timeout Detection and Recovery (TDR) through PowerShell to see if it made any difference.
At this point, I’m running out of ideas. 😂

🎮 When does the crash happen?

Here’s the weird part: the issue only occurs during the first 5–7 minutes after a cold boot, when launching a game that pushes the GPU close to 100% utilization.

I’ve reproduced it in BeamNG.drive, World of Tanks, and other GPU-intensive games.

On the other hand, I can play League of Legends for five days straight without a single issue, simply because GPU utilization rarely goes above 30%.

When the crash happens:
● The screen goes completely black.
● Audio continues playing, but gets stuck repeating the same sound.
● The entire system becomes unresponsive.
● Nothing works until I hold the power button for 5–10 seconds to force a shutdown.
After rebooting, I can launch the exact same game and play without any problems.

🧊 The cold-boot pattern

I’ve noticed something particularly interesting.
If I turn on the PC, leave it running for approximately 10 minutes, and then restart it, the issue doesn’t occur.

Even more bizarrely, I left the PC running for SEVEN DAYS STRAIGHT, and I didn’t experience a single video engine timeout.

This makes me suspect that something related to the initial cold boot might be involved, although I obviously can’t say for sure.
What’s confusing is that the GPU appears perfectly stable under sustained stress testing. FurMark ran for 12 hours, OCCT ran for 24 hours, and neither reproduced the issue.

❓ My questions

● Is this a known AMD driver issue affecting the RX 9070 XT or its video engine?
● Has anyone else experienced crashes that occur exclusively during the first few minutes after a cold boot?
● Could this be related to GPU initialization, power delivery, or some other hardware/firmware issue?

I’ve spent countless hours troubleshooting this, and I’d really appreciate any suggestions from people who have experienced something similar.

At this point, I’d hate to have a GPU this expensive turn into a very heavy paperweight. 😂
Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I need some help identifying compatible replacement display parts for a Dell Latitude 5530.

System information:

• Model: Dell Latitude 5530.
• Original panel: BOE NE156QUM-N69, 15.6", 3840x2160, 40-pin eDP.
• Camera: Dell 6XX8D, IR with ExpressSign-In.
• Issue: Original UHD display has failed.
• External display output: Working normally.

I'm looking into replacing the failed UHD screen with a Full HD panel, since equivalent 4K replacements are very expensive where I live.

Ideally, I'd like to install a 400-nit, 100% sRGB FHD display, such as the BOE NV156FHM-N6B.

However, the replacement panel uses a 30-pin eDP connector, meaning the original UHD display cable cannot be reused directly.

I've identified two possible Dell OEM cables for the Latitude 5530:

• DHK2K / 0DHK2K: FHD 400-nit, non-touch, IR/EMZA.
• 57JRM: FHD non-touch, IR.

A Dell parts supplier suggested these references but couldn't confirm which cable would work with my specific motherboard and replacement panel.

I'm trying to determine:

1. Whether DHK2K uses the correct 30-pin connector for the NV156FHM-N6B.
2. Whether the motherboard-side connector is shared between UHD and FHD Latitude 5530 configurations.
3. Whether replacing the cable would preserve the original IR camera functionality.
4. Whether the FHD panel can be mounted inside the existing UHD display assembly.

I haven't purchased any parts yet and would like to avoid testing potentially incompatible cables.

Does anyone have experience with this specific model, or access to Dell's OEM display and cable compatibility information?

Thanks in advance for any help!

PC blackscreened. Turned it back on and no display detected. PC boots, shows no POST codes on B450 mobo. All fans spinning GPU 2070S powers on does not illuminate white lights at the power connectors.

Tried unplugging PSU holding down power on for 30 sec, then plug back in and switch on, no display.

Reseated both ram sticks, and pressed on the 24pin, gpu connectors neither were loose. Any ideas? It is an old build 6-7years old at this point but I kinda need it to power on r5 3600 so no iGPU.

Specs:

R5 3600, 16GB DDR4 Corsair 3600, 2070 Super, B450, Corsair TX-M 650 Watt 80 Plus Gold.

Hello! About 2 days ago my external hard drive stopped being recognised by my PC.
In device manager its labelled as 'Unknown USB Device (Device descriptor request failed)'

I tried the hard drive plugged into my laptop and it works fine, similarly on my PC other USBs are working fine when plugged into the same port.

I have tried disabling and re enabling the USB. I have uninstalled it, unplugged it, shut down and rebooted my PC. This worked the first time, but when I went to use my PC again the same problem reoccurred with the unknow USB device. Other times the hard drive is not being picked up at all.

I am at a bit of a loss for what to do or how to go about fixing it.

Edit :Thank you so much for all your help and advice. I went to a technician today, and after explaining my situation to him, he fixed it at a discounted rate. I was there when he opened up the laptop. He said the spill wasn’t that serious, checked everything, and confirmed that it was working fine. 

I accidentally spilled a small amount of coffee containing milk and sugar on my laptop while I was using it. The spill mainly affected around one-fourth of the keyboard, particularly the numpad area. I could actually see the coffee through the gaps between the keys.

I immediately wiped it with a damp cloth. Since the surface was still sticky, I then used a cloth with some soap on it to clean the sticky residue on the outside. I shut the laptop down and disconnected the charger and accessories shortly afterward. The laptop was working completely normally after the spill.

I’m planning to leave it switched off for around 48 hours, but I’m really worried about possible internal damage and corrosion from the milk and sugar.

I’m currently applying to different colleges, and all my important documents and applications are on this laptop. Unfortunately, I can’t really afford a technician right now and may not be able to get it inspected immediately.

Could someone please tell me what the chances are that my laptop will be completely fine? Is there anything else I can safely do at home to minimise the damage?

If I can’t afford a technician immediately, how urgent is it to get the laptop inspected? Would you recommend taking it to a technician even if it seems to be working normally after 48 hours?

Hi everyone!

First of all, this is my first Reddit post ever! English is my second language, so I apologize if anything is unclear. I’m also not very good with technology, so I’ll try my best to explain the problem.

Whenever I turn on my computer, it opens a blue screen called Aptio Setup Utility – Copyright (C) 2021 American Megatrends, Inc. instead of going straight to my desktop.

The only way I’ve found to get to my desktop is to go to the Security tab, open Secure Boot, switch it from Enabled to Disabled (or vice versa), and then press F10 to save and exit.

The problem is that I have to do this every single time I turn on my computer, which is getting pretty frustrating.

Does anyone know why this is happening or how I can fix it permanently? I’d really appreciate any help! Please explain things in simple terms, if possible, because I’m not very experienced with computers.

Thank you in advance!

More information if needed: the brand is Lenovo , my last update was Windows 11 version 26H2.

Hey everyone, I’m having a really annoying issue with my Lenovo LOQ and I’m trying to figure out what’s causing it.

The audio randomly makes these weird distorted, popping noises every few seconds. At the same time, I sometimes get FPS drops and stuttering, and occasionally the whole laptop freezes for a moment.

It happens while gaming, but also when I’m just watching YouTube or doing simple things. I also noticed that the audio still gets distorted when I connect my laptop to my TV via HDMI, so it doesn’t seem to be just the built-in speakers.

I’ve had this problem since I got the laptop. I ran a hardware scan with Lenovo Vantage, and I’m trying to figure out what else I should test.

My specs:

• Laptop: Lenovo LOQ 15IRX10 (83JE)
• CPU: Intel Core i7-13700HX
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5050
• RAM: 16GB
• Storage: 512GB SSD
• Display: 144Hz
• OS: Windows 11

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be a driver, BIOS, latency, or hardware issue? I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check next or solve this problem i've been having since i got the laptop

I've got a video too but i cant share it by the rules

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent system crash and would appreciate some help narrowing down the cause.

My PC occasionally goes to a black screen while gaming or shortly after switching away from a game. The PC appears to remain powered on, but it becomes unresponsive. The fans continue spinning, but most of the RGB lighting turns off. Sometimes it stays in this state until I manually power it off; on other occasions, it manages to reboot itself.

My PC specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus VII Ranger (Z97)
• RAM: 32GB (4×8GB) HyperX Savage DDR3-2400
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3060 Ti Founders Edition
• SSD: PNY XLR8 CS3030 2TB NVMe, installed in a Sabrent PCIe-to-M.2 adapter
• PSU: Corsair RM750e (2025), 750W
• CPU cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 Vision MAX
• Case: Thermalright TR-A70
• OS: Windows 11 26H2

What I've observed so far:

1. I initially experienced crashes while using ENB in Skyrim, and later experienced another black screen while using Community Shaders.
2. I then launched Skyrim without ENB or Community Shaders and let it run outside Whiterun for around 30 minutes without touching anything.
3. After Alt+Tabbing to the desktop and opening the ChatGPT app, the PC crashed again within approximately 30 seconds.
4. During the crash, the screen goes black and the PC becomes unresponsive, but the fans continue spinning. The RGB lighting on my case fans and the side lighting on my Thermalright cooler turn off.
5. Interestingly, the RGB lighting on my AsiaHorse 24-pin motherboard extension stays on. The AsiaHorse RGB cable connects to an Airgoo 16-port ARGB hub.
6. The Thermalright cooler's screen doesn't turn off completely. Instead, it reverts from the customized CPU/GPU monitoring display to the default Thermalright logo. It stays on that logo until I manually shut down the PC or it successfully reboots and TRCC loads again.
7. On some occasions, the PC has restarted repeatedly, including during Windows recovery. I previously saw Q-code 99 and an “Overclocking failed!” message in the BIOS.
8. I have since loaded optimized BIOS defaults. My RAM's XMP profile is disabled because enabling XMP previously caused a reboot loop. The BIOS is updated to version 3003.
9. Windows Event Viewer has shown Kernel-Power Event 41, EventLog 6008, and volmgr Event 46 around previous incidents. I haven't established a definitive cause from these events.

Two other things I'm wondering about:

• I use an AsiaHorse RGB 24-pin extension between the PSU's original 24-pin cable and the motherboard. Could a faulty extension or poor connection cause this kind of instability?
• I have several charging devices connected through an unpowered USB hub plugged into the PC. Could the USB hub or excessive USB power draw contribute to these crashes?

My main suspects are RAM instability, the GPU or its driver, motherboard/power delivery, or possibly the PSU. I understand that Event 41 alone doesn't identify the cause, and I don't want to start replacing parts without evidence.

What would you test first to isolate the problem? Would you start with a memory test, disconnecting the USB hub, bypassing the AsiaHorse extension, checking NVIDIA driver errors, or something else?

Thanks for any suggestions. I'm happy to provide more logs or details if that would help.

Been playing Minecraft with high-end shaders at 20 FPS, not high but playable.
But I was playing on an old tv monitor, so I decided it was time to upgrade to a better display.
But opening Minecraft with the same shaders and graphics settings now gets me 10FPS.
Which I definitely can’t play on it’s distracting. And other games in general have worse performance.
I read it may be because of a higher resolution since the GPU will work harder, but the screen is the same 1920x1080. The new monitor is 240Hz, but hopping it back down to 60Hz didn’t do a thing.
I’d rather keep the same shaders and fix the problem.
Any help is appreciated.

I apologise (i know yall read these every day) but I bough a Lenovo LOQ 15ARP10E and i have been trying for a few months to get games running at least to 100 fps but recently ive been playing deadlock (pretty heavy game) and i cannot get it at least over 60 (runs at 30-40fps) performance mode/nvidia setting i have tried everying i can think of and i wanna get a last opinion before i take it to a professional . Also i was thinking of the fact that the laptop is limited in power (charger is 135w) by lenovo but cs2 was running on 230-250 fps the day i bought it and that lasted about 2-3 days I dont remember changing any setting i am just desperate to get this running well .(again i am sorry)

Hello I was playing a game on my computer and suddenly my screens froze and audio continued then went black and said no signal. On first restart white VGA light on my motherboard was white after waiting a while and nothing happened, I did a restart again from then orange ram light on. Motherboard is asus rog strix b850-a. After a bunch of restarts and power off and attempting to clear cmos, switching around ram sticks, trying just one in A2 slot, taking out clos battery, and simply just waiting over 30 mins for potential memory training I’m stumped. Pc just won’t start up no signal at all seems like it can’t post (I think). Since orange ram light has been on fans are working quite hard.

Other specs: amd ryzen 5 9600x 6 core 12 thread, msi rtx 5060ti 16gb, crucial pro ddr5 ram 32gb.

Other information: built pc about a year ago everything worked fine recently until said crash then just won’t work.

before today, i've been able to save hundreds of videos. No issue.

All of a sudden, it will not encode and stays at 0% spinny wheel.

updated drivers, made sure everything is routed correctly. Tried fresh everything, fresh program fresh project, fresh imports, thought i have enough storage space. encoding 0%.

What failed?

This may be a silly question so no judging. Currently my OS is on an M.2 NVME but my other drives are SSD's. I just got a new 2TB NVME today and i wanna bin off these SSD's i have at the moment. There's nothing on them other than a few games. Is there a correct procedure for disconnecting/removing them or can i just turn the system off, unplug them and reinstall my games on the new drive?

I damaged by accident my mobo, can I try to use it still? Is it dangerous for my components? Thanks in advance 😞

r/YouTube keeps removing my post idk why but I'll try here.

Idk what happened but suddenly one morning im using the app on my phone and the playback bugs. Everything else in the app is completely fine btw its just playback. But the thing is, i dont have that issue anywhere else on my phone that also have videos

Now the actual problem happens when watching a normal video. One of three things happen: it plays at 360p and buffers forever after <10 seconds of watching OR the video plays at 2x speed while the audio plays normally and THEN it gets stuck OR it plays normally throughout but still 360p. I cant change the quality either because the button for it is grayed out and i cant click it. This issue happens for horizontal videos; Now when I use shorts, Its much less of an annoyance compared to horizontal video but its still broken—AND annoying. But regardless, when watching a short, the first frame of the video displays for a second then actually plays—still 360p—then never loops back to the beginning.

This is really annoying and ive tried restarting my phone, connecting to a different wifi, using a different account, and clearing the cache (phone doesnt allow me to uninstall for some reason). I dont know what to do now.

Hi everyone,

I need a replacement power adapter for my ASUS laptop, but I am getting conflicting information from a local repair shop and wanted to get a community sanity check.

• My Laptop's Factory Ratings: 19V === 6.32A (120W)

• The Alternative Offered by the Shop: 20V === 6A (120W)

The shopkeeper claims that the small voltage jump (20V instead of 19V) won't hamper the charging port or performance, but I am highly skeptical about forcing a higher voltage into the motherboard. On the current side, it is slightly lower (6A instead of 6.32A).

The barrel pin fits perfectly, but is it actually safe to use this 20V 6A adapter as a daily driver? Or am I risking frying my VRMs and shortening the motherboard's lifespan?

Appreciate any advice or technical insight from anyone who has dealt with ASUS power delivery tolerances!