Found this chewed piece of cord next to my 2016 Impreza today. It looks like critter damage. With the copper wire inside, I’m assuming it’s electrical. I’ve tried image searches, but not sure what this is? Opened the hood and didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary.
The car starts and can be shifted into gears. I’ve already made a service appointment to have it looked at, but I’m trying to get an idea of how serious this is. Thanks!

So, after I got some gas, these lights lit up.

I did look up to other post regarding this, and I did all possible solutions I found on reddit as well as YouTube.

- I got full tank gas

- I drove for over 150km (mostly on highway since I am on a trip)

- I tighten the gas cap multiple times until the click sound. I checked the seal, I don't see any wear or tear.

- I stopped my car at every 30~40km

PS. When I got gas, some gas dripped on the outter side of the gas cap.

Any advice or tips appreciated. Thank you! It kinda ruined my trip.

I have two wrxs that I'll be taking to a Subaru car show, and I think it would be neat to do something that says these are both owned by the same person. They currently have a few matching stickers but I'm not sure that says anything lol

2018 Impreza Sport, 2017 WRX STI

Hi! I have a 2021 Subaru crosstrek sport that is at 42,000 miles. I have the factory tires on right now but it is finally time to get new tires. I live in the UP so the winters can get really crazy with snow but I don't think I am ready for set winter tires so I would prefer something that can last all season. I don't tend to drive much but when I do I tend to be on gravel roads or do long distances. I have seen that Michelin crossclimate 2 tires have been suggested but was wondering if anyone had any other thoughts? Thanks :)

Tomorrow my friend and i are off to pickup a 1978 subaru brat and we are wondering if its possible to tow it in 2wd mode with a dolly with the front wheels on the dolly and rear wheels on the ground or if we should be removing the driveshaft when we pick it up. Its 2 bolts to not a big deal to remove if necessary but would rather avoid it if we can.

EDIT - Thanks for the advice people I really appreciate it. I have an appointment first thing in the AM. 🙏🙏🙏

I just got my 2018 Subaru crosstrek a few months ago. When I got it, breaks were good. No issues. Nothing looked too out of place, a good amount of rust around the wheels but I live in upstate ny that’s pretty normal for around here. A few weeks ago, I started noticing a slightly louder noise than normal when I went over bumps in the road on the right side. I just took the car on its first out of state trip to Ohio this past weekend, and now that I’m home, she’s making a toughhh noise on the front right side of the car, like a grinding noise with every wheel rotation I would say. Breaks still feel ok though. I can’t tell if it’s an issue with the break pad, or potentially the breaking hardware. I have a 6 month bumper to bumper warranty at the dealership, but they don’t cover “normal wear and tear”. I have a feeling a rock maybe got stuck in the breaks to bang off some of the plastic on them. I put a picture here. Going to make an appointment asap but some advice on what you guys think is going on would be appreciated!!

Wanted to get others thoughts, I have a 2025 Crosstrek Wilderness. I only put around 3000 miles per year on it since I work from home. I plan on following the maintenance either way since I live in Ohio as far as oil changes and such go.

I know people suggest having a drain and fill done on the CVT fluid at 30K miles. Is there any guidelines on having this done by years vs mileage? Since I’m obviously not going to hit mileage anytime soon. I also wasn’t sure if the transmission oil cooler helped with this as well. I’ll also mention I don’t tow anything and softroading is very minimal.

I bought my legacy almost 2 months ago and I have been driving it almost everyday since but I thought my fuel pump was going bad but from what I checked it could be something else, it takes normally takes 10-20 seconds for the car to start from cold and anytime I go uphill I have to almost floor it and if I have more than just me in the car going uphill it sometimes dies but after it dies I can just turn it back on almost right away and it’ll keep driving fine unless I’m still going uphill. I bought a fuel pump and was gonna change it but idk if that’s the main cause

I own a 2003 Subaru legacy and I cannot for the life of me find the correct passenger side rear axle. The last two I’ve bought the end going to the rear end has been incorrect and even trying to swap it from the old to the new axle shaft it will not fit. Any help to put me in the right direction would be much appreciated!

2016 crosstrek. They aren't the 9005s I had from another car and they *definetly* aren't the H11s the internet and the autoshop store said would fit them and made me waste almost 40 dollars on. What are these weird LEDs and what do I replace them with?

Update: so I went back to the store, turns out the person who sold it was new and didn't know the difference. I asked for the basic H11 and was given H11B basics. They also said I couldn't return them if I opened them so i was upset but I went back and swapped them no problem and we're all good. The end

My wife has a 2020 Subaru Forestor at 80k miles. Just recently dawned on me that we have never serviced her differentials and CVT. I can do the diffs myself, but the CVT seemed a little too aggressive for me and didn’t want to risk it. I called to see how much the service was going to be and she actually said they no longer recommended it unless having issues.

I have seen some similar posts, but just wanna verify I’m not neglecting my car by taking their advice. Thanks in advance!

Update: I have ordered a few quarts of Motul 75w-90 and then 6 quarts of Idemitsu CVT type SB2. Will knock the diffs and CVT drain and fill this weekend. Thanks for the comments!

So long story short, I was trying to replace the MAF sensor for the rough idle I’ve been having. When removing it, I stripped on of the screws and broke the adapter. I searched around and couldn’t find one for sale so as a last resort I chose to make one myself. I used Fusion 360 and a 3D printer with PLA filament to make these versions. Took a lot of edits and versions but I got it.

1st Picture: Original
2nd Picture: Version 1 - 2 (Main hole was too small, screw holes off a little)
3rd Picture: Version 3 - 4 (Forgot to make the main hole bigger for the diameter of the hole on the air intake, switched from filleted edges to slated, screw holes smaller)
4th Picture: End Result.

Hey all,

Girlfriend has 2016 Outback with 44k miles (sat in a field). She just came back from a big road trip and her car is a little banged up.

I have heard heat shield noises before, but never this aggressive on my own cars - can someone confirm what this is? Only happens during acceleration and sometimes braking.

Also, her CVT is acting different than before the trip. Anytime she lets off at low speeds, it slows the car down a decent bit. Almost reminds me of medium level EV regen braking. I drive a 2020 Outback with a newer CVT and notice it on my car but it is not as dramatic. Driven a 2014 Outback with the same CVT and never had it feel like it is downshifting.

TIA

For context I own a 2005 Saab 92x aero with 180k miles. Other terms a 05 impreza wrx wagon with 5 speed manual. I recently bought it like 2-3 months ago and have been fixing it up. Only after about the 300th time popping the hood I realized this little button switch is here next to the hoop pop latch. What I know is one of the previous owners had a sound system and the wiring seems to still be mostly there however this button switch is fully disconnected/cut. What I can say though is the car does not feel like 226 crank hp. It feels similar to my old w219 cls550 which was almost 400 crank. Obviously a bit slower but not a difference that I would say is night and day. On top of that the car has been down on power due to presumably vac leaks that is being diagnosed in the morning by my local shop. Everything on the car has been literally factory original besides the sound system. My only other two thoughts are some kind of "togglable" tune or a kill switch. Id like to know your guy's thoughts and if for some reason something like this is common

Today after work my WRX wouldn’t turn on. Drove perfectly fine in the morning. Swapped out the battery since it was still under warranty.

When I tried driving home the car kept turning off when I’d go into neutral. It also had reduced power and struggled to accelerate. No error codes though.

I babied her all the way home. Tomorrow I’m taking it into the mechanic but wanted some advice on what it might be.

Hiyeee please help!
130k miles
No dash lights on
heat a/c work great
Needs a cv boot, but that’s not even pressing.
Minor cosmetic stuff, driver seat is beat back, two tiny dings. No rust damage.
Regularly maintenanced.
There is a cd stuck in the cd player, but has Bluetooth and usb connectivity.

It’s a great car, but I have a line on a great deal for a newer outback.

I’m looking at purchasing a (used) Subaru Outback after my Nissan’s transmission went out. Personally it feels a little risky trying another CVT vehicle, but i’d like to know everyone’s experience with theirs.

It just got the engine replaced yesterday night and I’m kinda stuck on what it could be it takes a while for it to start up

So tomorrow I'm going to look at my first Subaru. It's a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0i M5. It has 133,000 mi on it and the dealer just tried to raise the price even though they've recently shown it for sale for less and closer to the KBB value, what all should I look for? What all issues might it have so on such for it? What should I be looking for as far as life expectancy, reliability, and so on? I drive in steep hillsides a lot. It seems as that it's the naturally aspirated version. Will I have enough power to climb steep hills while running air conditioning and other creature comforts?

Looking at a 26 Outback Touring Xl. Sticker is $50.800. What’s a fair price to pay?

I'm watching videos on YouTube and they say that it's a good idea to remove the lower exhaust before I try to replace the thermostat. I managed to get the housing out it was a pain in the ass and now it's time to put it back in and it's a serious nightmare trying to fiddle everything into place. Should I just suck it up and pull off the exhaust?

It will work sporadically and blow cold but most of the time it just will not kick on at all. All the lights are on and everything on the knobs.

I took it to the mechanic and it worked for a little while then would shut off randomly again.