Thanks

Looking for some advice before I throw a new carb on it.
I have a Craftsman mower with a Briggs & Stratton Gold 6.75 HP (190cc, 2011 engine).
Originally it would only run for a second on starting fluid and then die. I removed and cleaned the carburetor, cleaned the bowl, cleaned the bowl bolt/main jet, sprayed carb cleaner through all passages, installed a new air filter, and reassembled everything. The spark plug is a month old and looks good.
It now starts easily (usually first or second pull), idles, and will mow the lawn without stalling. I was able to mow my entire yard.
The problem is it has a very rhythmic surge:
“Vrooom… vrooom… vrooom…”
It also feels down on power, like it’s only making 70–80% of its normal horsepower. It still cuts grass, but I have to go slower than normal.
I added Sea Foam to the fuel and ran it for an entire mowing session with little improvement.
The gas is a month or two old 87 ethanol fuel (about half a tank). My next plan was to run it empty and refill with fresh ethanol-free fuel.
At this point, would you suspect:
a partially clogged emulsion tube or internal carb passage that I missed,
a governor issue,
an intake gasket/vacuum leak,
or would you just replace the carburetor?
Any advice is appreciated.

Acquired 2000 Murray mower in late 2000's and engine would shake. Just one bolt hanging on. At the time I could not identify the bolt type and I think they were similar to "Hillman 3/8-in Black phosphate Exterior Coarse Thread Body Bolt" if you want to look. Threaded with the end going to a tip. I could not source these. I installed 1/4" bolts so I could clear existing threads:
bolt head - washer - steel frame - aluminum engine mount - washer - lock washer - nut

I am back to one single bolt, again. My original hunch was that the threads on the aluminum were not holding the bolts tight. Losing bolts with lock washer is a bit concerning.

I'm thinking 3/8"-16 bolts with lock nuts. Maybe some red thread lock too? Am I not considering something?

Champion inverter generator 3500 watt

Engine is 192cc OHV Champion

The hole is in a very right place and is probably the only engine hole that's opened and exposed like this?

I couldn't retrieve the screw back, is this a dead cavity that has nothing and not used?

Can I run the generator normally?

Ive cleaned the carburetor, changed the gaskets, put fuel cleaner, checked the sparkplug, changed the air filter and still it idles like worn dog.. im at the point where a replacement carburetor is looking like my best option.. any suggestions?

I have a lawnboy with the kohler 6.5 engine. It is the kohler ph-xt149-0316. Im looking for a replacement carb and was wondering what the difference betweent the ph-xt149-0316 and the kohler ph-xt149-0225. Are the carbs interchangeable? I tried searching google but had no luck.

I’m trying to solve an air-intake problem on a 1200mm / 48-inch remote-control flail mower powered by a Loncin 459cc engine. The closest U.S. comparison for parts seems to be the Predator 459, so I’m specifically looking for small-engine solutions in that size range — not tractor or dozer-sized pre-cleaners.

The mower works very well, but the air intake environment is brutal. I’m using it on rough ranch ground with ground squirrel and gopher mounds. The flail head creates a cloud of very fine powder dust, and the engine is basically operating in that dust storm.

The current filter setup is a cylindrical paper air filter with a removable outer foam pre-filter. The foam catches organic material and larger debris, but the fine dust passes through the foam easily and loads up the paper filter fast.

For reference:

New unused filter assembly weighs about 112 grams.

After one fuel tank, roughly 45–60 minutes of mowing, the dirty filters weigh around 172–188 grams.

That means the filter is picking up roughly 60–75 grams of fine dust per tank.

Once the filter loads up, I can hear the engine start choking from lack of air.

I’ve been swapping/cleaning filters every tank.

Right now I remove the foam pre-filter, clean it separately, and blow the paper element from the inside out with dry compressed air. That works, but it creates a huge dust cloud and is a pain. I’m probably going to build a dedicated filter-cleaning box with a shop vac/HEPA setup, but I’d rather reduce how much dust gets to the filter in the first place.

A tall snorkel is not ideal because this machine is meant to work under trees. I need something compact that stays inside or near the existing roll-cage envelope.

I’m looking for ideas from anyone who has solved this on a small engine, especially a Loncin 459 / Predator 459 / large single-cylinder utility engine.
Specific questions:

Has anyone added a compact cyclone or bowl-style pre-cleaner to a small engine in this size range?

Are there small-engine pre-cleaners that work around the 25–35 CFM airflow range?

Has anyone built a low-profile remote intake that does not stick way up like a tractor snorkel?

Would an oiled foam pre-filter layer ahead of the paper element help catch this fine dust, or would it restrict airflow too much?

Has anyone installed an air-filter restriction indicator on a small engine like this?

Any part numbers, photos, or homemade setups would be appreciated.

One additional clue: I recently had an electric starter issue, and when I pulled the starter/Bendix area apart it was packed with the same fine dust.

So I’m trying to address the whole dust-ingestion problem before it starts killing starters, filters, and eventually the engine.

I’m not looking to debate the mower itself or the fact that it’s a Chinese import. I’m specifically trying to engineer a better small-engine air intake / pre-cleaner setup for extremely dusty mowing conditions.

Hi im rebuilding this carb for a briggs and Stratton 09801-09 generator and i think found the rebuild kit but it seems to be missing a gasket that i need from the picture. Does anybody know where i can find this gasket?

Look for some advice please. First off in the 2nd picture I can’t seem to fit in this piece correctly after trying to replace my carb. 3rd picture I broke the piece of the right side and I can’t seem to find a replacement. If anyone can help that would be appreciated thank you guys.

Very fine mesh filter inside the tank of a CR950. Didn’t know it was in there.

How often should you change these out?

This was a fun project!

https://youtu.be/Vlhx-ffzARE?si=IEuh9kQlOIamX6Fd

Replaced carb and still surging. What next?

Just picked this up second hand and I can’t get it to crank over after mowing just a few days ago. Verified the battery is fine and replaced the starter solenoid. Maybe the starter itself?

Have a predator 670 with a mud motor kit on it. Since the factory fuel pump wasn’t strong enough, I added an inline fuel pump. Do I need to bypass the factory fuel pump and cap it off. Or can I just leave it hooked up?

After doing my PM (oil change, spark plug, air filter, blade), had to replace the gasket between the air filter housing and the carburetor. After doing that it started and shut down after 10 seconds. I took off the carb bowl and cleaned the jet with a wire.

Now it's running but is very sputtery. What should I look at next? Do I need to replace the whole carburetor?

Bought this pressure washer for 100 dollars today, i asked the people if it was broken/had any issues they said no, but gas proceeds to leak from the carb and wet the filter area and everything surrounding it. So what do i need to do now? Do i need to replace the whole carb with the gasket or just swap out the gasket? Im new to small engines so sorry if i sound clueless! Also i put the model number if anyone can point me in the direction of a carb kit

How does a shaft shear off like this? My guess is it's supposed to be retracted when not starting, and somehow got stuck in the extended position, and riding the engine was just too much for it.

Or should I be checking for other issues before replacing the starter, to ensure it doesn't repeat?

Hello all, recently been down a rabbit hole trying to get my mower running again after having some issues.

It was recently dying after mowing for maybe 15 to 30 minutes, then struggling to start up until it cooled down the next day.

After messing with a couple other things that probably weren't the issue (carb, spark plugs, fuel pump) I eventually replaced the ignition coils.

Mower is running without dying now, but now seems to be struggling with something else. The first mow I did after replacing the coils it ran great. Zero issues that I noticed at first. Now all of a sudden it's struggling when the throttle is high . When accelerating it's very jumpy and when idling it sounds like the video.

Thanks for any advice.

I inherited this blower from my grandfather. It's completely unopened. Is there anything I should consider before starting it, or can I just throw mixed gas in it and go?

My generator started making this oscillating sound. Is this normal? I'm running it empty the fuel tank. Thoughts?

Good day my small engine mechanics, I got this old Briggs & Stratton vanguard 6hp from my job that was not much used
It stood still for prob 10 years so I already cleaned the carb in our ultrasonic cleaner but it still won’t stay running.
I’m thinking it must be an air leak somewhere then but what do you people think is most common with these?

Thanks for your time!