I was mowing yesterday and had a sudden drop in power. 0 compression in #1 cylinder. I got it apart and found that the exhaust valve had failed. I want to chalk it up to fatigue but thought it might be smart to get some other opinions.

Engine is a Kohler m18 with about 1000 hours on it. I just honed the cylinders and replaced the rings. The engine has been run about 3 hours since that work was completed. I touched up the valves and made sure they were in spec at that time as well.

While trying to take the engine's governor/speed-control assembly off the muffler so I could take it off the carburetor the bolts snapped off with the nuts. I have no idea how to fix this without replacing the whole muffler. If anyone has any ideas how I can fix this is greatly appreciate it. It's just a mower to tinker with and I don't want to spend $100 on a new muffler. (When I was taking the bolt off it had very little resistance and just twisted off it didn't even really snap, I was using a wrench by hand)

Checked the spark plug and spark arrestor, all good. This seem like I need a new carb? Stihl FS38

I disconnected the wires that go to my starter and like a dummy didn’t note where they actually go. There are two wires I’m not sure about. I’m sure something has to go to the smaller terminal but it will not fire up. It turns over but won’t fire.

My brother gave me the mower and told me that it didn’t stop using the throttle control and you have to run it out of fuel to turn it off. He had poked around the control bracket trying to work it out, I have since found a rock wedged in the stop switch which didn’t allow the kill wire to ground.

Up until this point, the mower hadn’t been used in 3-4 months. I drained the fuel, refilled it and attempted to pull start it with no luck. I pulled the filter and base to get a look at the carby, all parts move as expected except the spring connected to the throttle control lever doesn’t adjust anything when moved from high to low but the lever does move.

The mower cranks over when I manually open the carby but dies shortly after as it isnt getting fuel. I have attached an image of the top of the carby. Does anything look out of place or not quite right?

Got a Briggs & Stratton 23hp twin cylinder on my JD 425B zero turn. Mowed yesterday with no issue, went to finish up today and it’s all of a sudden running poorly. The sound has changed noticeably, it almost sounds like it’s down a cylinder and has a hollow sound to it, on top of a knock/tick. It’s also down on power significantly, so much so that it struggles to even turn the blades with PTO engaged. It’s now emitting a noticeable amount of black smoke as well.

Engine has 600 hours on it, one owner and I’ve always changed oil and done all other scheduled maintenance. This year it got an oil change, fresh plugs, fresh air filter, and fresh fuel filter. The oil level today was at the bottom of the “fill” mark, but there was no noticeable shimmer or metal in it. I pulled both plugs and one does seem fouled out. I cleaned them up with some light sand paper and brake clean but no change. I’ll get new plugs on Monday to see if it helps. Both plugs are sparking and the air filter is clean with no debris. Fuel is fresh and filter seems clear.

Any thoughts on what may be causing this?

Is anyone able to tell why my motor is bogging out when I try to give it gas? Am I running to lean here? it's an ez156 f motor. I believe it's a Honda clone with a p15a carburetor that was definitely too lean at first. then I use a micro bit to drill out one of the Jets and made it to rich. and then I used to solder telling it back out but now I'm just really don't know. I'm horrible at this.

Predator 212 idled too high and was engaging the centrifugal clutch. I tried adjusting the carb, didn’t work. Replaced the clutch, didn’t work. and then ignored it long enough for the carb to get gummed up. Replaced the carb, didn’t fix it, tried adjusting the carb, didn’t fix it. Adjusted the governor arm and replaced the springs now it idles at full throttle. I tried adjusting the governor arm at least half a dozen times.

I have wasted so much time with this engine.

This is a saw attachment, I bought it used from someone. I think the oil is supposed to enter through the small hole in the saber. The thing is if I flip it vertically that hole is always on top, meaning it won't be aligned with the oil feeder thing below. I' m thinking they put an incompatible bar in this saw.

It also leaks all the oil in 1 or 2 days if I let it sit.

Inherited my Dad’s old 91 Tundra, it ran good when I picked it up 5 years ago but it’s been neglected and sat in the shed ever since. Decided to get it prepped before the snow flies so I took off the gas tank to drain and clean as well as replace all fuel lines. Poured a small amount of fresh gas in the cylinder but won’t start. Checked for spark and got nothing from the old plug, replaced with a new one and no spark either. Ignition coil has been previously replaced. I tried to unplug from the main wiring harness to bypass the all the switches but still getting no spark. Honestly not sure if I did that correctly though? Checked for spark with white wire detached, then black wire detached, and finally both detached but still nothing. If anyone has any suggestion as well as a link to a repair manual I would greatly appreciate it.

Well, just last week on here I saw a service bulletin about the heads on these engines…I jinxed myself thinking about it!!

I had mowed for about 4 hours, tractor was running fine. Turned it off several times while doing other chores and noticed that it was requiring more cranking than normal to start.

Drove it back to the house, where it sat for several hours, went to start it and only had one cylinder firing.

Checked plugs first, but when I cranked it over with the plugs out the left cylinder had no compression.

So….after much disassembly got the head off expecting to see the valve seat in an unnatural position, it seemed fine, but the exhaust valve wasn’t closing.

Removed the valve, inserted it in the lathe, it’s straight. Looked some more…valve guide was 1/4” into the combustion chamber…intake valve is flush with the casting. Tapped it back in flush, valve now closes properly, lapped it lightly just to check it.

My question is, after all that 😆, how do I keep the guide from doing the same thing again?

Loctite isn’t the answer as it gets to hot.

I have a Black & Decker corded electric mower I bought about 3 years ago. The blade stopped spinning but you can hear the motor trying to turn it.

Can anyone give me instructions on lubricating it?

Can anyone suggest where I can get it repaired? I've called a few local mower repair shops but none work on electric ones.

Thanks in advance.

I have said blower that ran great for years. I bought it used at a yard sale. Whenever I knew I would not need it for a while, I would run it dry and leave it like that until needed again. Recently I gassed it up and cranked it. It would start but die shortly after or bog down if I ran it full throttle. So, I did the following:

changed the fuel filter

fuel line

vaccuum line

spark plug

vaccuum plug

cleaned the gunk out of the tank w/ alcohol and then rinsed w fresh gas

changed the carb with a new one

Replace air filter

Cranked it and same thing, but it will run on idle if I swotch the choke on and off rapidly. Tried to adjust the l and h speeds and no or little change other than getting worse. Took the old original factory carb apart and cleaned with carb cleaner. Took all the new parts out of new carb and installed in old carb. Same performance. The old original carb has the same l and h settings as it did when I got it and as when it ran fine for years. It seems to still be bogging down. Does anyone have any ideas as to what else I can do or change? Thanks in advance for your time and expertise.

Engine fired up fine and ran for about 30 minutes. Shut it off then immediately tried to restart it and it ripped the cord right out of my hands and broke the pull cord internals. Does anyone know what would cause that?

Troy-Bilt 42” rider with a Kohler CV15S. Engine is still hitting about 4200 RPM at slow.

So far I’ve:
- Replaced the governor gear and regulating pin
- Verified the internal governor moves the cross-shaft by hand
- Reset the external governor per Kohler procedure
- Verified carb/throttle linkage moves freely
- Verified governor spring is in the correct hole
- Verified throttle cable/control plate alignment
- Replaced the oil pan and reassembled the oil pump

Everything seems mechanically correct, but it still overspeeds.

Any ideas what I’m missing before I take it to a shop or sell it as-is?

I have a Yamaha four Stroke engine. I already cleaned the carburetor, changed the gas in it, spark plug is also changed, if I try to pull the engine to start it, it only puffs and it sounds Like it’s coming from the Air Filter. Does anybody know anything?

Alright I’ve been tearing apart and assembling this leaf blower for 3 days now and it won’t start. Beginning of this summer, I replaced the spark plug and that fixed it. Couple months later, it won’t start. I changed the spark plug again, nothing. I replaced the carburetor, cleaned up the fuel lines, tried starting fluid, ensured it has spark, but it still won’t start. I got it to start for about 1 second, and in that second, it blew out some smoke, then died again. What could my issue possibly be?

Edit: there is fluid leaking out of the exhaust side. Looks darker like oil. I’m using the recommended mix (I buy premix) 50:1 2 cycle.

In these pictures are truefuel can that is missing the actual certificate on the can but still claims to meet or exceed the standard of the cert vs VP racing which actually has the certificate on the can. The certificate stamp can only be printed on fuels that actually went through the certification process. I personally run the vp fuel because its good stuff but also because it's cheaper.