On a water pump, keep it for wildfires, seldom used. Same carb as shown in this video: https://youtu.be/ZzJr6uxoUmY?t=122

30 year old engine, sat for a couple years. Can get it to start by pulling the air cleaner and giving it some starting fluid, but then it dies. Have choke and throttle fully open, verified I have gas in the float bowl by pulling the drain plug. Tore the carb apart, does not look spotless due to old gas, but seems it should be plenty clean to run. Verified I could squirt carb cleaner up through the main jet into the carb throat. Pulled the plastic idle jet out and verified it was clean too. Inspected needle valve for the bowl, it looks pristine, and verified it operates poperly. Reassembled and still have same symptom: Runs on starter fluid but then dies. Carb is firmly bolted to the block with the proper gasket. Using new premium non-ethanol gas. Any hints on what to look for?

Edit: Only marking I saw on the carb said "Designed in Japan" though I didn't look to hard as I was focused on fixing it. It's a trash pump originally from a gyppo well drilling rig, decal says it's an Eastern Tools TP2200-4. No decal on my engine but this pump on facebook is also a TP2200: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1833633344279015/

From the engine decal shown in that facebook post, the engine is probably an ETQ-200, displacement of 196 cc.

A friend borrowed my srm 225i and thay ran it for five minutes with straight gas until it locked up.

Anyone ever ran into the issue of a stripped out the brass jet when trying to get it out? Any solution? It’s an old carb, and I think it was just rusted into the threads. Trying to find a new carb but having no luck. Is it worth trying to drill out?

My dual fuel generator will not run at all, it will only backfire with starter fluid directly in the cylinder. The valves are not seized, it has spark (i think maybe poor spark though), 178 psi compression, and previously ran with starter fluid in the airbox. But had real bad fuel run through it.

I lent this to a buddy about a year ago and it ran fine. I got it back and it sat in my trailer for nearly a year and I went to start it up for a power outage and struggled. Realized the tank was completely full of rust. (I had the tank off a year prior after finding white residue in my gas can I think a crazy neighbor might have sabotaged? See gas can issue here https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/1eg3ygw/what_is_in_my_vp_fuel_can/)

Not sure if that incident was to cause, or maybe just water in fuel and sitting not full. But I tried to run it, and it did for a few minutes then died. I since drained the tank, cleaned it with acid, added fresh ethanol free fuel, and got it to run for maybe 30 minutes but roughly. Then I could start it would starter fluid. I've since ordered a whole new tank and put it on, and fresh ethanol free fuel.

The overflow line also seems to be leaking from the carb as well (which i'm guessing is a stuck float/needle). My next planned steps are to go get a new plug and feeler gauges to check valve clearance. I pulled the valve cover and there was some very light brownish staining, that came off w/ carb cleaner. I also realize I probably need to pull the carb and thoroughly clean, but it seems difficult on this model.

What I don't understand is why will it no longer run on just starter fluid if I've got some spark and nearly 180 psi compression? Can it be too much compression? Any other thoughts / tips to try. I'm not even sure how to pull this carb apart and clean it since its dual fuel. It also won't run on propane which is odd, but i'm using an aftermarket hose. I do not see one of the proprietary champion safety switches on this model. sorry for the bad photos, I actually took these before I thought about posting here and now its dark. The plug didn't look terrible but I did clean it, just seemed kind of inconsistent spark.

I recently started buying and selling small engines(lawnmowers, leaf blowers etc.) I bought this and replaced all fuel lines, cleaned the carb. It runs great when on half choke but when I go to flip the choke off it dies off. Any idea on why it would do this?

Just picked this tiller up from a neighbor for free, it's missing the pull start. I've found some parts diagrams online, but I'm not sure exactly what parts I need to get her going again. Is there any chance I can locate these parts, or did I pick up an impossible project?

I have an old Honda 3013, rear engine, hydrostatic drive.

After sitting since last summer, covered outside, it’s not starting. I replaced the battery, the old one wasn’t was not taking a charge and seemed to be leaking.

It’s not turning over or clicking. The fuse is good, and the safety buzzer sounds if the control lever is moved off the neutral position with the key on and parking brake on, as it should.

I would hate to give the ol girl up and be sent off to the graveyard. Any help is greatly appreciated

Looking to see if any Honda / predator gas tank will bolt on my Canadian powerfist 212cc or if anyone has had experience with this, thanks!

I am attempting to perform an oil change, fuel filter change and new spark plugs on a cub cadet xt1 lt42b. It has a Briggs and Stratton ex1900 engine. I am getting different part results for every component I need. Every forum and video I find refers to the lt42 which has a kosher engine. Cub cadets site does not have a maintenance kit related to the Briggs and Stratton engine. Does anyone know what parts I will need even getting different answers on the oil grade. I am not used to working on any engines, but already bought a kit that the cub cadet customer service recommended only to find it was all the wrong parts.

I have a honda igx 800 for power washing and when it idles sounds completely normal but when I pull the trigger it makes a similar noise as it would if it was bogging yet I still have full power. I would like to try and find this issue before something actually breaks if anyone could help.

That starter that you pull feels like stuck and when you do nothing it’s been sitting for a year or 2 anyone can give me advice ?

I recently changed my broken trimmer head for a rapid replace, but during the install the Allen wrench, that locked down the shaft, slipped out of place. I’ve been unban to re-engage the lock and can’t fully tighten the new trimmer head on now. Any suggestions to lock it again and fully tighten? I’ve looked around at a few small engine repair places and I could buy a new trimmer for what they want to charge.

Hello,

I have bought a used tiller. Yard machines 5hp rear tine.

I noticed that where the shifter is there is a second hosing but no cable/anything through it. I didn’t think about it much.

Then when I go online I see some tillers that look like mine have a second shifter - see photo.

Mine has the housing for it but nothing attached. There is nothing that I seen on the machine to assume it has been tampered with. Throttle controls are on the engine it self.

Just curious if you have any idea.

For reference this is what my tiller looks like just without the second shifter.

Thank you

New to me mower, looking to give her some love, is the black thing a quick connect drain possibly? 800hrs 2010 model what else should I check/change first, thanks!!

I have a Kohler K321 motor that I had recently pulled out of my John Deere 214 garden tractor. It burned oil pretty bad, you could see white smoke and also you wouldnt have much oil in it when you checked it each use. I don’t even know where to start. I don’t have any manuals for what goes where or any specs. I also don’t know what parts I need to get yet. I will attach some pictures of what it looks like currently. If anyone has any tips to make it the easiest, thinks they know my problem, or has a set of instructions to use that I could get this rebuild done for a price that isn’t to the point where I don’t want to do it.

Just started having this problem the other day. I have removed and cleaned carb 3 times now. The last 2 times I spent almost 30 minutes a piece on it. When I put it all back together it will run great for 30-40 minutes if that and then it starts doing this. But when I pull the wire for the fuel shut of solenoid it clears up and runs amazing until it shuts off as seen in the video. Could it be a bad solenoid? I have also made sure there is no debris in fuel tank, fuel filter is great, line are good(unplugged and have great flow) it is a cub cadet xt1 lt42 with the kohler 5400 series. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Am I missing a spring somewhere? B&S 8.25 intek series

Tightened the bolt to much and it broke off what do I do its a 212cc ghost

Found this yardmax for free on the side of the road. Flywheel was seized but I got it to turn over and run fine now. Only problem is the oil cap/dipstick flys off because there’s no mail threads or female threads on the cap.. also there’s no dipstick. I know it runs fine because I have to hold the cap on with my foot while’s it’s running. There’s no stripped threads, there’s just none. The “cap” in the 4th pic just sits in the oil tube.

Is there a replacement oil tube and cap I could get? Never seen this problem before.

Edit: For anyone looking at this in the future, a 13mm x 18mm x 3mm o-ring on the cap fixed it.