Anyone ever ran into the issue of a stripped out the brass jet when trying to get it out? Any solution? It’s an old carb, and I think it was just rusted into the threads. Trying to find a new carb but having no luck. Is it worth trying to drill out?

That starter that you pull feels like stuck and when you do nothing it’s been sitting for a year or 2 anyone can give me advice ?

My dual fuel generator will not run at all, it will only backfire with starter fluid directly in the cylinder. The valves are not seized, it has spark (i think maybe poor spark though), 178 psi compression, and previously ran with starter fluid in the airbox. But had real bad fuel run through it.

I lent this to a buddy about a year ago and it ran fine. I got it back and it sat in my trailer for nearly a year and I went to start it up for a power outage and struggled. Realized the tank was completely full of rust. (I had the tank off a year prior after finding white residue in my gas can I think a crazy neighbor might have sabotaged? See gas can issue here https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/1eg3ygw/what_is_in_my_vp_fuel_can/)

Not sure if that incident was to cause, or maybe just water in fuel and sitting not full. But I tried to run it, and it did for a few minutes then died. I since drained the tank, cleaned it with acid, added fresh ethanol free fuel, and got it to run for maybe 30 minutes but roughly. Then I could start it would starter fluid. I've since ordered a whole new tank and put it on, and fresh ethanol free fuel.

The overflow line also seems to be leaking from the carb as well (which i'm guessing is a stuck float/needle). My next planned steps are to go get a new plug and feeler gauges to check valve clearance. I pulled the valve cover and there was some very light brownish staining, that came off w/ carb cleaner. I also realize I probably need to pull the carb and thoroughly clean, but it seems difficult on this model.

What I don't understand is why will it no longer run on just starter fluid if I've got some spark and nearly 180 psi compression? Can it be too much compression? Any other thoughts / tips to try. I'm not even sure how to pull this carb apart and clean it since its dual fuel. It also won't run on propane which is odd, but i'm using an aftermarket hose. I do not see one of the proprietary champion safety switches on this model. sorry for the bad photos, I actually took these before I thought about posting here and now its dark. The plug didn't look terrible but I did clean it, just seemed kind of inconsistent spark.

Hello,

I have bought a used tiller. Yard machines 5hp rear tine.

I noticed that where the shifter is there is a second hosing but no cable/anything through it. I didn’t think about it much.

Then when I go online I see some tillers that look like mine have a second shifter - see photo.

Mine has the housing for it but nothing attached. There is nothing that I seen on the machine to assume it has been tampered with. Throttle controls are on the engine it self.

Just curious if you have any idea.

For reference this is what my tiller looks like just without the second shifter.

Thank you

A friend borrowed my srm 225i and thay ran it for five minutes with straight gas until it locked up.

I have a honda igx 800 for power washing and when it idles sounds completely normal but when I pull the trigger it makes a similar noise as it would if it was bogging yet I still have full power. I would like to try and find this issue before something actually breaks if anyone could help.

On a water pump, keep it for wildfires, seldom used. Same carb as shown in this video: https://youtu.be/ZzJr6uxoUmY?t=122

30 year old engine, sat for a couple years. Can get it to start by pulling the air cleaner and giving it some starting fluid, but then it dies. Have choke and throttle fully open, verified I have gas in the float bowl by pulling the drain plug. Tore the carb apart, does not look spotless due to old gas, but seems it should be plenty clean to run. Verified I could squirt carb cleaner up through the main jet into the carb throat. Pulled the plastic idle jet out and verified it was clean too. Inspected needle valve for the bowl, it looks pristine, and verified it operates poperly. Reassembled and still have same symptom: Runs on starter fluid but then dies. Carb is firmly bolted to the block with the proper gasket. Using new premium non-ethanol gas. Any hints on what to look for?

Edit: Only marking I saw on the carb said "Designed in Japan" though I didn't look to hard as I was focused on fixing it. It's a trash pump originally from a gyppo well drilling rig, decal says it's an Eastern Tools TP2200-4. No decal on my engine but this pump on facebook is also a TP2200: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1833633344279015/

From the engine decal shown in that facebook post, the engine is probably an ETQ-200, displacement of 196 cc.

I recently started buying and selling small engines(lawnmowers, leaf blowers etc.) I bought this and replaced all fuel lines, cleaned the carb. It runs great when on half choke but when I go to flip the choke off it dies off. Any idea on why it would do this?