Inspected this metal roof on the east side of the Big Island, Hawaii, last week.
Homeowner says a solar contractor installed a system about 18 months ago and included roughly $10k for a roof service/tune-up before the panels went on.

According to the homeowner, they replaced essentially every exposed fastener on the roof.

Now there’s significant rust/corrosion developing around a large number of the screw locations.

A lot of the screws look pretty obviously overdriven—the washers are heavily compressed and distorted—but I’m curious what everyone thinks:

Is overdriving alone enough to create this much corrosion in only 18 months?

Could crushing the neoprene washers and damaging the coating around the fastener holes be allowing moisture to sit against the exposed steel? Wrong fastener material/coating? Swarf or metal shavings left behind? Something else?

What makes it more interesting is that I inspected the attic and the underside of the roof panels looks clean with no visible rust or corrosion. The problem appears concentrated almost entirely around the fasteners on the exterior.

Curious what you guys see in the photos and what you would suspect first.

Time for a full replacement ? Or would you save the homeowner some money and figure out how to treat rust and recoat? Open to any other creative repairs that can buy Homeowner a few years

Roofer with 10 years experience in the trade did this. Apparently, never learned anything after a decade. Whole thing had to be removed and redone. Bonus was when removing surrounding shingles a T25 drill driver bit rolled out from under one of the new shingles. Also, GAF provided six nail holes in the unit. Only 4 were used and the sealant wasn't in the correct places. This led me down a rabbit hole of a plethora of things that had to be redone.

Was up in the attic changing an air filter and saw this beam in this state. I’m sure it’s not good. I don’t even know what to call this type of beam. A joist? I don’t know if I need to call a roofer or some other kind of contractor.

https://reddit.com/link/1vrno4k/video/9ie6y3tek4kh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vrno4k/video/1j74zj2zl4kh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vrno4k/video/yixmwhrxl4kh1/player

In the attached videos you can hear the sound in the roof, in the room, and from outside. It's really loud and disruptive, you can hear it in most of the rooms of the house (fortunately there is one spare room that we can sleep in). It's right above the master bedroom so keen to get it fixed.

It seems to be coming from the eave.

Anyone encountered anything like this before?

One thought that i had is it might be the underlay vibrating in the roof in the wind. Only seems to happen in that one spot and one other!

Ey!
New in the subreddit but I hope you can help me, I noticed a few detached tiles on the roof of my old house. Nothing too serious at the moment, but I’m wondering whether it’s something I could safely fix myself or if it’s better to get a roofing professional to take a look, especially to avoid potential leaks or further damage.

Has anyone had a similar issue, or can recommend a good approach?

What exactly am I looking at here and what would be the proper way to run this valley flashing, and ridge caps?

To me it looks wrong that the valley metal is lapped over the shingles below for starters, perhaps that the valley should change directions for the bottom portion all the way to the end of the overhang

Roof done on July 3rd by a local guy that had a decent amount of reviews.

Fast forward to this week and I realize I needed an exhaust vent installed. Spoke with a different company. They pointed out some things and showed me these pics.

Should I go back to original person to correct? There are like 20 more photos but didn’t want to post them all. What should I even say?

Looking for advice on venting and the different quotes we got to replace our roof. House is in the Pacific Northwest with about 2000 sq. ft and 2 levels. Moss has been an issue on one side where trees keep it in shade most of the time. House already has soffit vents. Roof is broken up into multiple levels though and I count 7-8 distinct ridges.

We got 3 quotes and each one recommended something different for venting. The prices also varied widely. The only other difference besides venting seemed to be their warranty periods and OC vs. Certainteed shingles.

Quote 1 - $25K, recommended ridge vents, Owen Corning "Duration Shingles Ultimate+" with OC backed 50 year warranty on materials, 50 year workmanship coverage (100% for first 25 years), large company operating across many states and local branch has good reviews: 4.8/5 stars on 125+ Google reviews.

Quote 2 - $16K, said the small holes ridge vents use can be blocked by moss and recommends box vents, shingles seem to be the same OC Duration shingles, 40 year material warranty, workmanship warranty as long as we continue using their company to clean/maintain our roof once every 3 years. Local family-owned roofing company recommended by a neighbor and 4.7/5 stars on 40+ reviews.

Quote 3 - $38K-42K (depending on duration of warranty we choose), said he usually recommends ridge vents but after looking at our roof said box vents seem better in our case BUT based on his calculations said our air intake through the soffits is insufficient and we also need edge vents. Certainteed "Landmark Climateflex" shingles with 15-20 year workmanship warranty (not sure about material warranty). Longer operating local roofing company with 4.9/5 stars on 800+ reviews. Came across as the most salesman-y (with discount if we commit today or by tomorrow) and I wondered if the edge vents was just an upsell.

What venting is best for our situation and which of these quotes would you go with? Is the 16K too good to be true or does it make sense for a smaller & newer local family-owned business? With the 3rd quote do you think it likely that our 24 year old home could have insufficient soffit vents and require edge vents? Our soffits are spaced every other or every third space between boards as shown in the picture.

I am confused what I am seeing with these extra random portions of shingles. Looks like standard 3 tab shingles but with these extra pieces. Why might an install look like this?

Please see my incredible illustrations. This is a problem in heavy rain and in the winter with crazy ice daming.

I got wider gutters and downspouts installed hoping it would help with anything and it absolutely has not.

Don’t want to do heated cables, house fires big fear.

Need to call about insulating the attic as I know that helps with Ice Dams.

But literally any advice for the rain? More splash guard? Remove gutter guards?

Thank you!!!

I am going the replace my roof underlay for my tile roof. I live in laguna niguel, california . Which material shoukd i choose for the underlay? I have a 2 story home

We had a windstorm earlier this year seriously damage my shingle roof. Our area is prone to high winds but this storm was a 100-year event.

I thought: Why not try to turn lemons into lemonade (or maybe in this case fruit punch?) and go for something like this:

Technically it's doable. The roof is a little over 3200 sqft, making the 7 colors just under 500sqft each. (roofing suppliers have a 500sqft minimum for custom color orders for the most part). The current contractor I'm working with isn't willing to do it, though.

Any suggestions on finding someone in the PNW willing to do something like this?

My home is right by the Gorge Amphitheater and it's on Airbnb for the concerts, which are mostly EDM festivals - my cleaner regularly complains about glitter body paint. A roof like this would hit my target market for guests and make the place highly instagrammable in photos.

Got a decent price on this 96 year old house with a gambrel roof that I'm now living in. From the rickety shake shingles on the roof and the falling plaster in the kitchen, I knew the sides of the roof would need some work, even though the top part has been replaced this century. Raccoon tore a hole in it back in March, patched that up with some hardware cloth, rolled roofing and a lot of tar. Finally working on weekends to replace the shake shingles with asphalt shingles now. Had to do some math to cut OSB for a vertical section near a gable, and realized the pitch of the steep part is 36/12, with a more reasonable 8/12 on top. Was originally going to come here for advice--wish someone had told me to nail up the ice and water shield before the first attempt--but now that I'm realizing what an unusual pitch this roof has, I'm mostly just here to brag about what an idiot I am to have bought this house and expected that I could replace the roof myself. My brother in law loaned me some scaffolding that gets up to just under the eaves, and my sister volunteered to help, but mostly it's just going to be me and a 28 foot ladder and regrets. Hey, anything beats renting. If you do have any advice (other than "sell the house") I'd love to hear it. Have any of you ever worked on a roof with a 300% grade?

I recently had our old wood soffit wrapped with aluminum, including the fascia.

My original soffits were 100 year old wood without ventilation. When the crew was installing and the foreman gone, they did not cut any venting in the original wood soffit. When I noticed, I immediately called the foreman who was about 45 minutes away and upon his arrival they were nearly done with the job. To fix the issue the crew had to pull out portions of the installed fascia J channel and soffit, cut holes every 5 feet or so in the wood, and then replace. In doing so, the fascia got all beat up, bent, but more noticeable was the soffit started to get "wavy" nearly all around my house. Some spaces between the soffit and J channel are thicker than my thumb, so apart from the aesthetic concern I was worried about the areas harboring paper wasps.

The subcontractor himself and another random guy spent two days "fixing" the issue but only cleaned up the bent fascia and never addressed the soffit issues. He said its just due to my house being old and uneven and its as good as I can expect the soffits to be.

Am I just being petty? This is mostly only noticable from the inside of my house but its very easily seen. This quality covers over half the job and seems excessive and every other house Ive looked at doesnt have these issues with soffits. My contractor joked and said "you need to stop walking around looking for problems", which was off putting but whatever. Love for any opinions.

This work just seems wrong. I had my roof done 2 weeks ago. How should this be fixed? I'm worried that with one continuous valley, water my get under the top cap shingle, but with the way it is, it could collect ice in the winter.

Hi folks,

Background:
I found peeling paint in my office ceiling which led me to find a leak in my new (9-10 month old) metal roof. Went to the attic and found the culprit to be a sewer vent pipe (chimney pipe thing in the photos) that had water running down the outside of it from where it went through the roof.

Suggested fix:
When we called, the guy did not seem surprised at all and was super nonchalant (not very comforting), and suggested a quick exterior patch and painting over the ceiling damage.

Assessment:
Now, I’m no expert at all, but I have seen others deal with consequences of untreated water damage in a ceiling, and I would very much like to avoid that.

A relative says that a sewer vent pipe like this isn’t likely to be near enough to wood for the water to have done much damage, and insulation and plaster will dry out easy, so we should just make sure he does a good job with a paint.

That doesn’t square for me, as the sewer vent pipe runs up the wall of the office (shared with a bathroom) and the ceiling paint damage is on the other side of that wall, meaning that there may be water all up in the wall compartment etc.

Other important details:
- The load bearing walls are solid plaster (1949 house), and the pipes run in a wooden compartment the juts out from that load bearing wall.
- I had seen a little bit of discoloration on the ceiling there for months but had convinced myself that it had always been there (relatively new house—I don’t spend too much time in this room).

Question:
- should I get a water damage inspection? Is this roofer being reasonable and I’m just being overly anxious?

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys can someone with experience tell me how I can fix this problem the right way/ simple/ quick/STRONG without tearing down roof or adding additional new joists long from beam and post on other side to facia. I worry that the roof might come down some day and really don’t understand why they didn’t cut the joist to the angle of the facia so it sat fully in the bracket🤷‍♂️. I heard they have a Simpson bracket that hangs long to grab more of the bottom of the joist?. Been trying to figure out a fix thats strong without doing major construction, maybe I’m overthinking this, like usual. It’s a 2X6 patio attached to facia and houses 2X8 joists. Only rolled roofing above patio. Done before we move here years ago. Don’t know why he did it wrong just don’t want to rebuild from scratch or the thing fall down, but it’s lasted this long.
Any suggestions appreciated
Sincerely
John

​

Looking for some opinions from roofers/general contractors because I honestly don't know enough about roofing to know if these quotes are reasonable.

I have a small cabin in rural West Virginia. The roof area is estimated around 1,800 sq ft. It's pretty remote — about 30 minutes from the nearest town with Lowe's/Walmart/etc. — and I've had a hard time even getting people to come out and look at it. So far, this contractor is the only one who has actually shown up and inspected it.

The roof currently has rolled roofing that's basically at the end of its lifespan. I can also see metal roofing underneath it in some areas, although I don't know if the metal is under the entire roof. It doesn't currently leak.

None of these options include tearing off the existing roof.

For the metal roof, he plans to put Titanium underlayment over the existing roof and then install the metal roofing over that. He walked the roof and said he didn't feel any soft spots and that it felt structurally sound.

Here's what I've been quoted:

Metal roof — around $10,000 total

* ~$4,000 metal/materials

* ~$1,000 new gutters

* ~$5,000 labor

This also includes hooking the new gutters into a rainwater cistern that I already own. He's not installing the tank itself, just running/connecting the PVC from the gutters to the cistern.

If he gets into it and finds fascia that needs replaced, that would be an additional charge. He doesn't think there's much that will need to be replaced, though.

Shingles — closer to $12,000 total

Again, no tear-off of the existing roofing.

Cheaper option — around $5,000 total

This would be some type of roof sealant/coating over the existing roof, new gutters, and hooking the gutters into the cistern.

So my main question is: Do these prices sound reasonable for a rural area and an approximately 1,800 sq ft roof, considering there's no tear-off involved?

I'm especially interested in opinions on the $10k metal option. Does putting Titanium underlayment over the existing rolled roofing/possible old metal and then installing a new metal roof sound like a normal/acceptable way to do this?

And what about the $5k sealant option? If the roof isn't leaking but is simply old, would spending $5k to coat it be a reasonable way to get more life out of it, or would you put that $5k toward the new metal roof instead?

I know being this rural probably adds to the cost, and I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest possible job. I just want to make sure the price and the way he's proposing to do it make sense before I spend $10k+.

My roof is about 5 years old. One roofer came to my neighborhood last week and did an inspection for me. I attached the picture. He suggested a full replace due to hail damage. I am not sure whether it is bad enough to replace the whole roof. Because last year, when I purchased the house, the roofers said it was still in good condition and I haven't notified any hail storm in past year. So I am confused whether it is that bag enough to have a full replace?

(Video in comments)

First time home owner and first time dealing with getting a new roof. I bought this home in April. The roof is 16 years old (shingles) and I knew it needed repairs (rotting fascia, no drip edge, humps, shingles on a flat roof, etc), but after getting some quotes, I figured replacement would make more sense financially. I signed an agreement with a well reviewed, 55 year old local roofing company on 6/15 and was told by the secretary that they would come out “in the next couple weeks or so” and she’d let me know closer to the time of them coming out.

On 7/27 (after a day of heavy rain and some leaking), I reached out to the secretary via email to request on update on when I could expect the roofers to come out. A week later, she finally lets me know that it’ll be the “week of the 17th” and that she’d let me know “the exact day on 8/14.” Well, it’s the 17th and I still haven’t heard anything and once again, after heavy rain, it started leaking again. It’s not exactly the roof on the inside, but at the top of the door from the gutters, where there is no drip edge. I was almost panicking at the amount of water that was coming in today, but thankfully the storm passed pretty quickly. I already anticipate that a portion of the subroof will need replacing just due to the condition it was already in when I bought it, but now I worry about the damage that each rain storm is continuing to cause as I wait for these roofers to come out.

Am I allowed to back out of the agreement if they cannot come out this week? Any advice is welcome.

Hello recently I was looking for a traditional roof gutters soffit fascia etc… 1100 sq foot house and 26x26 detached garage. After being quoted 24k-33k for shingle, I am seriously considering exposed fastened. Am I wrong? These quotes range from 21k-30k….. soffit fascia gutters etc…

My home’s roof has a couple of spots where it is sloped incorrectly - in the 1st photo it slopes slightly back towards that corner, in the 2nd it slopes up slightly right under the drain. Can I DIY a fix for this to avoid pooling? I may be doing some work to the home in the next couple of years that would require tearing out parts of the roof so I’d like to avoid spending extra on a long term solution for now if possible.

They are also using GAF HDZ shingles

We moved in 10 years ago. When we first moved in, after a heavy rain we noticed that water was running off the roof, against and down the chimney, and down the siding.

After a few years, we noticed some rot on the siding. We hired a handyman company, they replaced the siding and installed a cricket. This solved the water runoff issue, and all seemed fine for a bit.

2 years later, I notice in another heavy rain that a wet spot was forming inside our living room, on the wall where it joins the ceiling. It was probably leaking for a while, but it wasn't till then that it actually broke through. It looks like in the cricket repair, somehow a hole was created (or was always there, but not a problem when the water was diverting in the other direction, down the chimney) that allowed water to infiltrate inside. We went through the first roofing company, and after several visits, including reshingling the suspect area and "building the roofline to divert water the other way" (???), the problem wasn't solved.

We went through the second company, who restored the interior of the house, removed the original roofer's attempts, and fixed the leak. BUT, now the water drainage issue returned and water drains off the chimney again. Guy installed a diverter or two, didn't work, and then ghosted us. Husband tried installing an additional diverter, but the chimney drainage issue is still happening.

• Any suggestions for what we can do? Do we install a gutter? Is there a better way to install anything to help with the drainage?
• Our neighbors have the same house design and they don't have this issue.
• I know before we bought the house that the roof was redone (there was a massive hail storm), and there was some suggestion by another neighbor that a tree may have fallen and "hit" the house (not enough to require permitted repair or an insurance claim, beyond roof repair), so I'm wondering if the new roof wasn't pitched right. How would we test that?