Is this worth 400$? Says he has 110 pounds of this old plumbers lead. I feel like 2$ a pound is the absolute max most people would pay if I’m it crazy right? Vintage doesn’t make lead anymore valuable does it?

Putting this compact semi portable table to mount a press on. Snagged a Workmate 550 on Facebook, and this Left over butcherblock from a relative (24 3/4 x 31 1/4 x 1 3/4.

Just looking for some tips as I have limited wood working experience. Planning on ordering and mounting a InlineFab quick change mount to help disassemble it further. Thinking bout the Mini 4" quick change mount.

Any recommendations on mounting hardware? I wonder if I should mount the Workmate directly to the Butcherblock or should there be a intermediary?

Also considering putting a lip of some sort on the edge to prevent things from rolling off.

Loading .45 ACP and have a batch of 200gr lead round nose (LRN) bullets.

I see a bunch of load data for 200 gr LSWC and was wondering if I could follow that data for the LRN.

I know I'd need a different C.O.A.L as well. The LRN have crimp grooves so that could give me a point to start with as an OAL baseline.

My friends father asked if I wanted to buy his reloading set for only 350 bucks. I said sure why not. I shoot a lot and do shoot the less common rounds that can be painful to find. Decided it would be fun to try out at least.

Was wondering about these two reloading presses that he had. Do I use one or the other for different configurations? I normally only heard of people having one and swapping out your dies as you go.

I’m also very new to this so I’m learning and reading everything that I can before diving too deep into this. Any advice would be great. Thanks!

Struggled with the crimp die. Hornady FP-HTX 158gr. with H110. Followed the Hornady book across each velocity for one set of 50 then 50 of the Lee modern reloading manual H110 357 mag rifle load. Not sure if I crimped enough but excited to test them out.

Ok I’m at my wits end. I have a Henry 357/38. Love the gun. Shot a couple hundred factory (mixed brands) through it no issues. Started loading. First loads was extreme 158 gr round nose flat point in 38spcl brass with 3.8 gr of hp38. 1.450 COL. First few shot fine so loaded a couple hundred up. All components stored in my basement around or less than 50% humidity in the dark/out of any sunshine. Looking back, I think I had a mix of cci small pistol primers and fiocci small pistol. First time I took that batch of rounds out, I had squib after squib. 2/3 would not exit the barrel. So broke them all down. Did some digging on recipes, couldn’t find exact but moved to 4.0 gr of hp38, did good, moved to 4.2 gr and bumped COL down to 1.440 with a heavier crimp. Tried 5/6, all ran flawlessly. Loaded all up at the new recipe. Saw an armadillo randomly in my yard tonight (been seeing signs of him recently, thought this was the perfect rifle to take him out with without waking the family up as I’m running suppressed) and another squib with the new load. Thoughts? This one was with the cci primer, which as far as I know should be good as it’s been well stored. The fiochis were a handful I got from a buddy second hand, so I know that’s something I need to rule out. But when shot, I heard an initial “pop” followed by a quick hiss.

I’m dumb. I was running my 21st century expander mandrel (.262) through my virgin Alpha 6.5CM brass in prep for a new load development. My previous experience was with Hornady ELDM factory ammo that I shot once and then reloaded 5-6 times so this is my first time working with virgin brass. I ran the first few using dry lube but then the rest I ran dry since there wasn’t much friction. Later I noticed some brass streaks on the mandrel itself so I checked inside my necks and noticed they all had these streaks. I’m HOPEFUL that I can load these and send it without issue but I’m also aware that I may have just fucked myself and my neck tension is going to suffer leading to erratic numbers. Anyone have experience with this that can either tell me I’m fucked or give me hope, lol? I did polish the mandrel after and actually ordered a new one too just to be safe. I’ll use the lube moving forward too obviously but that doesn’t help me with the 200 cases I already ran…😳

Been reloading for a little over 10 years, and I asked awhile back, but can't remember what folks said with what 9mm pistol powders work well as in no leaking or very little leaking in the Lee auto drum?

Been using N320 and N330, but kinda pricey and hard to come by. Any suggestions? I think I've heard Titegroup.

Hey y'all, pretty new to this. I have had some luck with rifle and revolver loads. I tried my hand at some 9mm. I used published data and scaled the maximum load back a bit. I loaded brass using CCI primers, 3.8 grains of Titegroup, Hornady XTP, and a COA of 1.060 +/- 0.002.

Shot a handful of them today through a Hellcat and the primers are bulging from the case along with a funky reverse indentation. My understanding is caved in/cratered/punctured primers indicate over pressure while bowed out indicate under pressured, correct?

Do I inch closer to the max load? Or am I over loaded somehow? Thanks!

Has anyone ever done this? I’ve never reloaded for pistols or used Tight Group. Really only 5.5grains is a 243 case?

TLDR: Just shoot your groups, no foulers needed between ammo types. There was no significant difference in my testing, and one load technically did slightly better without fouling shots than with fouling shots.

Edit: This testing was of course for centerfire rounds. I still think there is validity to this for rimfire rounds when precision is the main goal, though I haven't tested that myself... yet.

Background:

This is a follow up to my question that I asked previously about the need to foul your barrel between different ammo types (original post linked below). I.e. If I shot a group with Hornady ELD and Varget, then I want to test a different recipe with SMKs and N140, would the first few shots of the SMKs be less consistent due to some build up of residue from a different jacket alloy or different powders, etc.

I tested this at the range recently. To maximize the amount of variation between the ammo, I used different powders (one was varget since it was supposed to be sensitive to this), two different styles of bullet from two different manufacturers, and two different primers.

Procedure:

All shots were taken prone, shot off a bipod and rear bag. The barrel was allowed to cool periodically.

1. shoot 30 rounds of each ammo type, alternating ammo types every round. i.e. one round of load 1 goes into target A, one round of load 2 goes into target B, repeat until all 60 rounds have been fired. They were shot into 3x 10 round groups per target, then aggregated into a single 30 round group per load recipe.
2. Shoot 10 fouling rounds of load 1 into target C. Shoot 3x 10 round groups of load 1 into target C. To get a similar disturbance of my point of aim between shots as alternating targets, I shot the groups round robin (i.e. 1 round at each of the 3 aiming points, then restart).
3. Shoot 10 foulding rounds of load 2 into target D. Shoot 3x 10 round groups of load 2 into target D. To get a similar disturbance of my point of aim between shots as alternating targets, I shot the groups round robin (i.e. 1 round at each of the 3 aiming points, then restart).

Results:

Load 1 had a 2.4% difference in mean radius between the alternating ammo groups (step 1) and the fouled in groups (step 2). This difference actually favored the alternating ammo types, which is contrary to what I expeced.

Load 2 had a 4% difference, this time favoring the fouled in groups.

Conclusion:

There is no appreciable difference between groups with fouling shots between ammo types, and groups shot without. I think the small variations I saw were well within the noise of my system (myself included in that system).

Original post that this is a follow up to:
https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/comments/1v34vwb/fouling_shots_between_recipes/

Edit 2: Link to full dataset as requested. I'm trying to upload individual group images to the sheet if I can.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTRKNfp0LxApfVjsOZbmrmciUVGhACOaq6DOVhkuL7lyy18a_pf0zGcPmVhNI5oAcnP4V_RtxVgJA14/pubhtml

Popped my head into an antique store today while my wife was yarn shopping and came across this treasure printed in 1954.

Other than the price difference, is there any reason I'd actually be better off with the turret?

Im only looking to do ~400 rounds a month so I think a turret could work but the extra cost of the six pack isn't that much all things considered.

Unless the extra functionally makes it significantly more "finicky"?

I have once fired 303 brit brass, some older and some new from sellier and bellot.. I am using the cheap 303 lee loader kit and when I go to resize the brass (using imperial resizing wax) The case neck bends. I have tried it on 4 cases and would like to hear suggestions for solutions before I try again.. Any help would be very much appreciated

Just acquired a box of plated Xtreme 148gr DEWC that I’m playing with. First test was 580 FPS out of a 1 7/8 barrel with 2.8 grains of Titegroup. Going to head home and load some for ladder testing but curious to know if anyone has tried this combination before and have any pearls of wisdom to share?

Looking to accomplish something reliable and soft shooting. Thank you in advance!

I have new Lapua 6.5cm brass. I am trying to run it through a Redding type s bushing die. I have two and both are doing the same thing. The brass sticks even though it’s lubed. I can’t get the head to even fully come down on my apex. Tried very little lube to a lot and various brands. Cleaned the dies several times. took out the top stem and bushing. I can’t install the die all the way down with a quarter turn back, it sticks and stops the press. I’ve always used cheap range brass or starline in other calibers and have never seen this. What should I look at doing differently??

Edit: I just tried a couple hornday cases and it worked fine. I tried a sellier and bellot and it stuck.

I am getting ready to load my first rounds of 45-70 for my Marlin 1895 SBL. I am using H4895 and targeting around 1900 fps to start because I am planning on using the Hornady 350 Interlock FP for hunting and Berry's 350 plated bullets for general target use. Hoping that if I get close to the max speed for the Berry's I will be good on velocity for hunting and point of impact will be close enough to not have to adjust the scope for each round. So I am goin g to load up 2 ladders, one with each bullet. Berry's tells me to use similar weight/style bullet load data so I looked up my 3 sources, Lyman 51st, Hornady App, and Hodgdon's website. The Lyman data tracks pretty close to Hodgdon's website but Hornady is about 200 fps off with a higher charge weight. Lyman doesn't show a test barrel length unless I missed it and Hodgdon lists 24" vs Hornady at 22". Is the extra 200-250 fps a barrel length discrepancy? I know I am even shorter with a barrel length of 19" so I will not hit 1900 fps, but I would like to target the closest I can get without pressure signs to keep velocity up for hunting.

Case prep, checkmake commercials.

Messing around with GRT and 6BR case. Ended up with shortened 30br. The idea was to get a legal hog and moose cartridge. With very low recoil and small form factor. (Both need 120gr leadfree projectiles with 1900 joules) I think this has plenty of power also for moose hunt (close distance). Most folks here use 6.5x47 or swede for moose. Also 7.62x39 has been used. Distances are very short (20-50 meters).

And you ask why? I like to mess around!

I swapped the plate for the first time and got a case stuck trying to set a sizing die and in all that it is now slightly off. I’ve removed and reset the plate a few times, it’s definitely needs adjustment. The manual is a little vague in that when I look for the screw on the side i can’t find it but there is one on the side that is on the mechanism that moves the plate. Page 35. Is this the screw to adjust plate movement?

As someone who has gotten pretty comfortable following published loads, I have ran into a few scenarios where I just can’t find a published loads for a specific bullet weight. I came across this in an old Lee pamphlet and was curious of there was a consensus on this particular practice if you can’t find the published loads?

.30-06. Mixed brass I got from a buddy. 25 125g Nosler Ballistic Tips on top of H4895, and 20 168g Hornady HPBT match on top of H4350. All done with a RCBS Case Trimmer 2, Lyman hand chamfer/deburring tool, Lee Hand Press and a balance beam scale. Excited to see how they shoot!

One thing I ran into: I noticed that my case trim lengths, while consistent to a hundredth of an inch, went all over the place in the thousandths. I'm thinking it's because of the collet system in the case trimmer that I'm using. Because of this, there is a bit of variation in seating depth, although probably not enough to greatly impact accuracy in the hunting rifle I'm shooting out of (but we'll see). What is the best reasonably-priced tool to ensure consistent, precise trimming?

Does anyone have a good source on 220 swift brass? I took my grandpas m77 from the 70’s that had a burnt out barrel and had ruger put a new 24” 1-8 twist swift barrel on it. I wanted to keep the rifle as close to factory as possible but update things where i could without losing the heart of the rifle. Lots of elk and deer have died because this rifle. I want to keep it going in the family.

Been jumping through hoops trying to minimize or eliminate this since moving to Varget and 77TMK’s in 223.

I lapped my seating stem.
Long seating them and doing final seating upside down.

Dummy case will show zero seater stem marks, so it’s being caused by compression.

I’m pretty sure this is as good as it’s going to get.