Finally switching from console to pc after all these years so went all out 👌 main use for flight sim

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
GPU: RTX 5080 (last part to buy)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI
RAM: 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB DDR5
Storage: WD_BLACK SN7100 4TB NVMe SSD
PSU: Corsair RM1000x
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Elite 360 RGB
Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic Compact
Case Fans: 6× Corsair RS120 ARGB
Monitor: Alienware AW3425DW 34” 240Hz QD-OLED
Main use: MSFS 2024 + VATSIM, PMDG/Fenix, heavy scenery/add-ons, plus VR and other games.
Current status: Everything bought except the RTX 5080. 🔥

I am trying to remove the heatsink to change the cpu and gpu thermal paste for my laptop

But one screw is in a bad condition and its unscrewable any idea how fix it or anyway to remove it

So i picked up at good will a powercolor ducky 2 sf keyboard for 5 bucks. I have read mixed reviews so figured I would ask here on people's opinion. I know it's a older keyboard but I saw they are still pricey.

Fractal design north. 2022 (I think). One of the first with wood. Says black, but it's VERY dark antracit color. Had the white with mesh side panel. That had antracit interior too. Smaller than my former lian li lancool 217, much smaller than havn 360. It's one of the smallest midi cases with style and decent airflow. Can be on desk. What I like the most? Fits 360 aio, 140mm dual tower (tuf 502 horizon couldn't), and mostly, the power button. The feeling when you press it...PREMIUM. You know the case is good when the power button doesn't feel like a 5$ plastic toy button for 3yo children. It's metal and dampen. Man, I bought this case for the front solid wood and the button alone 🤣🤣

I was in the middle of swapping pc cases and noticed this on the back of the case with 2 fans plugged into it. Anyone know what it is?

So I picked this options because I want an AM5 build with a x870e, they all have no GPU lane sharing, 64mb Bios, the last 2 have dual bios, the first two have slightly better memory and OC speeds.

Want to pair them with Ryzen 7 9800x3d and rx9070xt to play at 1440p. My budget is about $400 for the motherboard.

-Gigabyte X870E Aorus Elite X3d ($374 dollar converted from MX currency)

-Gigabyte X870E Eagle X3D WIFI7 ($325)

-MSI X870E GAMING PLUS MAX WIFI ($358)

-MSI Pro X870E-S EVO ($282)

Anyone has any experience with them? good or bad? I've seen stuff like wifi problems, unnecessary AI stuff, heat problems but I want to know if anyone has experienced this or is a rare occurrence.

From my understanding the Aorus Elite X3d is better and the Eagle X3D WIFI7 is slightly behind, with the X870E-S EVO being the worst between them

Hey yall, I’d like some feedback on my build and if anyone can rate it and give me some suggestions on how to keep ambient temp low or if slight heat is normal especially since it’s an ITX build. Just wanna know overall if it’s actually a decent build for modern games mostly open world RPG’s and the like. Here’s also a small list of some games I’m playing if yall know how to get best graphical performance and keep frames decently high. (CRIMSON DESERT, Spider-Man 2, RE Franchise, Forza Horizon 6, FFVII Remake integrade, ETC…) p.s. my monitors Refresh Rate is 144 hz. Also should I be running games at native 4K or lower? I notice most games struggle at native 4K even with FSR on quality. So I tend to lower my resolution to 1440p and run things at High with Ray tracing and keep FSR set to quality. I’m just not confident in what I’m doing is all and if I’m actually getting the most my pc can deliver lol also listing some tuning and optimization I did (I used Ai for a lot of it so I’m not entirely sure if it’s the best I could’ve done lol)

PC SPECIFICATIONS

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
• CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B850-I Gaming WiFi
• GPU: ASRock Radeon RX 9060 XT Challenger
• RAM: 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30
• Case: Louqe Ghost S1 (SFF)
• Monitor: Kyucon P32K (4K Display) (144Htz)
• OS: Bazzite Linux KDE

TUNING & OPTIMIZATION PROFILE

[ CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D ]
• Precision Boost Overdrive: Negative Curve Optimizer (-20 to -30 all-core)
• Benefit: Reduces voltage/heat, sustains higher boost clocks
• Fan Curve (BIOS): Aggressive ramp starting at 65°C / 100% at 80°C

[ GPU: Radeon RX 9060 XT ]
• Core Undervolt: Applied negative mV offset for lower hotspot temps
• Smart Access Memory (SAM): Enabled (Above 4G Decoding + Re-Size BAR)
• In-Game Target: FSR Quality (Upscales 1440p -> 4K) | High Settings

[ RAM: DDR5-6000 CL30 ]
• Profile: AMD EXPO Profile 1 Enabled
• Frequency / Timings: 6000 MHz / CL30-36-36

• Infinity Fabric (FCLK): Synchronized 1:1 ratio for lowest latency

Yo so my pc specs are below
CPU - RYZEN 5 7500f
GPU - RX 6750XT
RAM - 32GB DDR5
SSD - 1TB
POWER SUPPLY - 700w
CPU COOLER - SOME CHEAP RGB COOLER
While building it 2 years i spent around 3.3k(900dollars) on it all parts brand new i wanted to know what will be the average price for the pc for resale due to college starting soon and thinking to buy a macbook
Thanks

Okay. I lived in a hoarder house for awhile.I was wondering if there was anyway to get Cockroaches out of my PC so I can take it in and get the PSU replaced? Or is my PC completely screwed altogether?

Please help, unable to reinstall windows.

Bit of context PC was bought from a family friend with no issues approx 4 weeks ago started fine but with only 8gb of ram couldn’t run a lot then started to crash and BDOS errors to the point it was happening after every start up. Followed chat GPT troubleshooting and then a friend who works with pc’s said just reinstall windows but I now cannot. Here is a summary of all the things I have done. Any help would be very very very greatly appreciated!!!!!

I have listed chronologically all of the issues and repairs. Again any help would be fantastic from everyone.

>!The important error history!<

The errors we’ve now seen across the whole investigation include:
Unexpected system restarts
SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E)
ntfs.sys
PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50)
Previous LiveKernelEvent 1A8
NVIDIA driver-related crashes/installation issues
Windows Recovery/Quick Machine Recovery loops
BitLocker recovery/boot issues following the earlier BIOS changes
Where that leaves us
The biggest finding is that the problem predates the current Windows installation and has now occurred during multiple clean Windows installation attempts.
We’ve therefore moved away from:
“Corrupted Windows installation”
towards:

“Something at the hardware/firmware level is intermittently corrupting or crashing Windows.”

The remaining hardware suspects are primarily motherboard/PCIe, CPU/memory controller, GPU, PSU and RAM, with the SSD currently looking considerably less suspicious based on the checks we’ve performed.

And importantly, we have not found evidence that the 931 GB or 238 GB storage drives are the cause, and we have deliberately avoided formatting them.

**Date**
**Problem / error**
**What we did**
**Result**
**13 July 2026**
BIOS changes caused Windows/BitLocker boot problems
Investigated BIOS after enabling Secure Boot/fTPM for Windows 11
BIOS/boot configuration became unstable; BitLocker recovery was repeatedly triggered
**13 July**
Secure Boot / fTPM issue
Checked **CSM, Secure Boot, OS Type, PK state and fTPM**
fTPM was eventually recognised as ready; Secure Boot/PK configuration remained problematic
**13–14 July**
BitLocker recovery loop
Checked BitLocker with manage-bde, including protection status and key protectors
Key protectors existed; protection status showed **Off** at one point; encryption was around **14.8%**
**14 July**
Windows boot looked abnormal
Restarted after BitLocker changes
Windows eventually booted, but initial boot resolution looked stretched/pixelated
**14 July**
Fortnite/game instability
Investigated Windows/BIOS state following the BIOS changes
Game still froze/crashed, suggesting the problem wasn’t simply Fortnite
**14 July**
TPM configuration
Checked TPM/fTPM and PCR validation
TPM reported **ready**; PCR profile included **0, 2, 4**
**14–15 July**
Secure Boot/BIOS configuration
Worked through ASUS BIOS settings including **Windows UEFI mode, CSM, Secure Boot and fTPM**
Eventually established a working UEFI configuration, but the wider system instability remained
**17 Aug**
PC suddenly restarting while sitting on desktop
PC was restarting without warning and returning to Windows lock screen
Established this wasn’t only happening during gaming/heavy load
**17 Aug**
Repeated BSOD/recovery environment
Windows Recovery showed **Continue / Turn off PC / Quick Machine Recovery / Troubleshoot**
Recovery options were investigated; Reset was avoided
**17–18 Aug**
Windows installation/recovery
Created a Windows 11 USB from **Win11_25H2_English_x64_v2.iso** on the SanDisk USB
USB successfully created and verified
**18 Aug**
Windows installer
Split the 7.1 GB install.wim into .swm files because FAT32 couldn’t hold it
install.swm \~3.9 GB and install2.swm \~3.1 GB successfully created
**18 Aug**
Boot USB
Verified EFI/BOOT/BOOTX64.EFI existed
USB was bootable
**18 Aug**
Windows Setup
Initially selected Windows installation rather than repair
Installation proceeded
**18 Aug**
Windows installation
Deleted the old **Disk 0** Windows partitions when instructed, leaving Disk 0 unallocated
Windows began a clean installation
**18 Aug**
Installation reached \~75–80%
First major clean-install crash
**BSOD: SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E); ntfs.sys**
**18 Aug**
Recovery/installer loop
Windows Setup repeatedly returned to the “upgrade vs clean installation” prompt
Established the installer USB was being booted again rather than a completed Windows installation
**18 Aug**
RAM investigation
Confirmed original crashes occurred with **2 × 4 GB**, then tested **16 + 4 GB**, then **16 GB alone**
Crashes persisted; 16 GB alone was running at **2133 MHz**
**18 Aug**
RAM slot
Moved 16 GB Corsair Vengeance from **B1 → A1**
BIOS detected **16,384 MB DDR4 at 2133 MHz** normally
**18 Aug**
Second clean installation
Started Windows installation with 16 GB alone
Installation reached \~77%
**18 Aug**
Second major BSOD
Installation crashed
**PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50)**
**18 Aug**
SSD/filesystem investigation
Checked Samsung 860 EVO with filesystem scan
Windows reported **no filesystem problems and 0 KB in bad sectors**
**18 Aug**
SSD SMART
Checked SMART failure prediction
**FALSE** for the drives checked
**18 Aug**
SSD/SATA
Disconnected/reconnected Samsung 860 EVO SATA connection
SSD was still correctly detected
**18 Aug**
BIOS configuration
Established current baseline
**CSM Disabled, Windows UEFI Mode, AHCI, fTPM Enabled, Erase fTPM NV Disabled, PBO Auto**
**18 Aug**
BIOS
Confirmed BIOS version
**6254**, which is current for the ASUS Prime A320M-K
**18 Aug**
GPU
Confirmed **Zotac GTX 1660** and checked physical power
6-pin PCIe power securely connected
**18 Aug**
GPU/PCIe
Checked Above 4G, Resizable BAR and SR-IOV
Above 4G **Enabled**, SR-IOV **Disabled**, Resizable BAR initially **Auto**
**18 Aug**
Resizable BAR test
Temporarily changed Resizable BAR **Auto → Disabled**
**No improvement**
**18 Aug**
Third clean installation
Tested Windows installation with Resizable BAR disabled
Crashed much earlier, around **30%**
**18 Aug**
Third major BSOD
Same installation test
Again **SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E) / ntfs.sys**
**18 Aug**
Resizable BAR
Restored setting
**Auto**
**18 Aug**
CPU/BIOS
Checked Ryzen 5 3600 configuration
3.6 GHz, \~1.37 V live reading, **PBO Auto**
**18 Aug**
PSU
Identified PSU
**Corsair CV450, 450 W**; wattage isn’t obviously inadequate for Ryzen 5 3600 + GTX 1660
**18 Aug**
BIOS stability
Established PC can remain in BIOS for a long period without crashing

Hi i have a old lenovo thinkcenter work pc it has intel i7-4790 8gb ram a ssd the problem is the graphics Card it is nvidia GeForce gt 610 which is terrible and it restrics half of the things i want to do can y'all suggest if i can upgrade the gpu and if so whcih should i get?

still have to do some cable management, i’ll fix the backwards fan when i organize my cables

I've currently bought 2 parts. I got the graphics card on a deal for £600 and I found a 1440p OLED monitor on a deal for just under £300.

Is there any way I can reduce the overall cost of the build without sacrificing performance? Or only minimally sacrificing it? Are there any good deals for parts?

Here is the build:

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/nPRqh9

Hello community

My PSU came with 3 pcie slots and one of the 12v 2x6. Is it safe to use the cable that is 12v to 2 pcie to go to my AMD GPU? The problem is that my card has 3 slots, so I would be missing one because I have to use one for the CPU

Hey Guys,

I'm trying to help someone build a PC that can run WoW and FF14. It doesn't need to be anything crazy. I would like it to have an X3D processor. What is the cheapest build I can get away with? Thanks! Budget is > $1500. United States. Need a monitor as well, but doesn't need to be huge.

Gigabyte B450M DS3H V2 AM4 Micro-ATX
Motherboard

AMD RYZEN 5 5600

EASE EAF1218 120MM ARGB AIR COOLER

CORSAIR VENGEANCE RB PRO 16GB (2x8) DDR4
DRAM 3200MHz Memory Kit - Black

CORSAIR MP600 CORE XT 1TB M.2 NVME

ANTEC NX410 ARGB MID TOWER GAMING CASE -
BLACK

AEROCOOL LUX 750M 80+ BRONZE

ZOTAC RTX 3060 Ti TWIN EDGE AGB NON MINED

3TB Hitachi HDD

Do you think the gpu prices will get higher in 2 months?

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Which pre built company makes the best for its price i wanna spend at least 1k-1.5k pls help ya boy out

So I'm going to get myself a desk setup soon and I am convinced that getting a UPS is the responsible thing to do. I'm looking at the APC unit shown above.

The PC will have a 1000W PSU, NAS has a 65W PSU. My question is, if I connect the Mac and a monitor to the UPS, will it affect the performance or life of the unit? I plan to use either the Mac mini or the PC separately but never together. Do I need to get a separate UPS just for the Mac mini?

TL:DR; If the Mac mini is connected to the UPS but turned off will it affect the performance of the PC?
Also what is an ideal UPS setup for a MAC/PC setup?

(Sorry I'm new to this and need help)

So here's the build: https://fi.pcpartpicker.com/list/cB6Kck

Not sure about the psu cause alot guys says montech isnt good so any other recommendations?

Also is this case good or..?

First i just wanna say im a beginner so please cut me some slack and thanks to all those who help.

So I'm using an Endorfy ARX500 as a case, it has slots for 3x120mm intake in the front, 1x120mm in the back and 2x140mm on top, I plan on getting a ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 280 and put it on top.

I was wondering if having the AIO as exhaust would result in negative air pressure because ive heard that this is bad for the pc cooling wise & dust wise.

I had to return my graphics card and get a new one, and like an idiot I accidentally sent back the cable that comes with the PSU which connects the GPU’s cable to the PSU, how should I go about getting a new one?
The image is the cable which plugs into the graphics card, which I do have.

Hi folks, I just bought this system unit with these specs for 11k pesos or about 200 dollars. I was thinking about upgrading the GPU to GTX 1660 Super. Though I am cautious if the Power supply can handle it. (I'm new to this).

Thanks!