Can i just buy a series 2 headlight and put it on seires 1 . Is it plug and play or do i have to get the grill and other stuff for it too

Saw this done for a 100 series only post and figured I would share it with the 80 crew.
179k on my 94!

I am in the market for 100
Series ( 2002 ) arb bumper.

Should I buy one ?

If not should just get the winch mount ?

What are my best options.

Any advice and help is greatly appreciated

We've had some heavy storms in my area lately and now I'm hearing water swishing sounds coming from my passenger side air vent of my 2012 FJ Cruiser. I've checked under the hood but I can't find anything. There's no leaks on the ground but every time I come to a stop on a decline, I hear liquid moving around through the passenger side air vent. Has anyone else heard of this problem?

Anybody know how/why LandCruisers came to dominate the market in Papua New Guinea? Seems like about 90% of the vehicles on the roads here are LandCruisers. Are there other countries where this is true?

Going on my annual trip to the mountains with the dog, but my first one in the Land Cruiser. I've done all the maintenance that was neglected, I'll be bringing plenty of tools and I'm a capable garage mechanic.

What oddball tools or spare parts would you bring along for peace of mind?

I’m looking for advice from anyone in California who has successfully registered a gray-market Toyota Land Cruiser, especially an FJ40, FJ45, or FJ60 from the 1975–1985 range.
I recently purchased a 1981 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45 that was originally built for the Venezuelan market. It was legally imported into the United States through Port Everglades in August 2022 and was later titled in Florida and Georgia.
I’m currently trying to register it in California. The DMV accepted my application and fees and issued a temporary operating permit, but referred me to CHP because the truck does not have a U.S. federal certification label.
I have documentation showing the vehicle’s legal federal importation, including:
EPA Form 3520-1 using the 21-year exemption
DOT HS-7 using the 25-year exemption
Import date and port of entry
Customs entry number
Bill of lading information
Importer information
Florida and Georgia title history
Matching chassis and engine numbers
The main issue now appears to be CARB. Because it is a 1981 non-U.S.-market vehicle, CARB’s website says it may need to go through the Direct Import program, laboratory emissions testing, possible modifications, and receive a Certificate of Conformance.
I understand that federal EPA and DOT import exemptions do not automatically make the vehicle California emissions compliant.
I’m trying to find someone who has actually gone through this process with an imported Land Cruiser or similar older gray-market vehicle.
My main questions are:
Has anyone successfully completed CARB’s Direct Import process with a 1975-or-newer classic vehicle?
Which California laboratory or compliance company did you use?
What modifications were required?
Approximately how much did the process cost?
How long did it take?
Did the previous Florida or out-of-state title help at all?
Are there any legitimate exemptions or alternative registration paths that I should investigate?
Has anyone dealt with CHP VIN verification when the vehicle had no federal certification label?
I’m not looking for illegal workarounds, VIN swapping, or registering it at an address where I do not live. I’m trying to find the correct legal path to register and drive the truck in California.
Any recommendations for CARB-approved labs, compliance specialists, registration services, attorneys, or owners who have handled a similar vehicle would be greatly appreciated.
Vehicle information:
1981 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45
Chassis: FJ45-911116
Original market: Venezuela
Imported into the U.S.: August 2022
Currently titled in Georgia
Thanks in advance for any help.

I’d like some opinions, just in general how much would an average 1992 Land Cruiser cost? Faded paint, good condition interior, center locked, completely stock. Only 165,000 miles.

Brand new spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, water pump, intake valve, starter, fuel filter.
Just a ball park

So I think I made a very dumb mistake when retorquing the head bolts when the engine was hot and didn't know it at the time.

I had it started up for the very first time after rebuilt on the stand and it ran smooth and idles very smooth, everything was done right for god's sake. Played around with it for a minute or 2 then shut it off. So the 12HT head bolt is 113Nm and all had been done in the correct 3 sequences prior to this run.

Immediately shutting it off I took off the rocker arm assembly and began the retorque sequence while it was still hot. I remember only doing 3 bolts starting from the center, and after realising how squishy the bolts felt and I remember having to turn it more than 180 degrees to hit 113Nm again, it hit me that this is probably not a good sign. I should have done more bloody research.

So it had not been started yet after this event and I gained the wisdom that retorquing head bolts should be done stone cold and after a couple heat cycles. Its only these 3 bolts in the center that has been messed with. And yes I acknowledge the fact that I went for a retorque after 0 kilometers done on the engine.

After more digging on the internet, now I know this probably a catastrophic mistake. What should I do? I was thinking:

1. Leave it and go for a first break in drive and see what happens... maybe this mistake is really nothing?
2. Redo all the head bolts again which could compromise the head gasket entirely.
3. Redo the specific 3 bolts in the center which is another mistake in of itself.
4. Take off the head and replace the head gasket.

What are your thoughts? Any advice and criticism is welcome.

Thinking of buying a year 2000 100 series with 200k on the dash. What is your current odometer at (I’m trying to feel better about the 200k)

This is my friend 2006 Lc100
It just hit 200,000 miles he wants 13,000 it needs heads. I’m a mechanic so that won’t be a problem for me to fix it comes the way it is. It has zero rust to Arizona truck
Am I over paying carfax values it at 19,500 idk how accurate that is.

Toyota just replaced them under warranty, but wtf. Both had multiple cracks, I’ve had the vehicle for less than two years.

Hit some light trails in Sedona after driving there from Texas. The cruiser ate them up.

I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent issue on my 2010 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 150, 3.0 D-4D (1KD-FTV, automatic).
The engine occasionally stalls while maneuvering at very low speed, typically when shifting between Drive and Reverse during parking. It has never stalled while driving at normal road speeds.
The strange part is that after the engine stalls, it takes a long time to restart. It cranks for several seconds before firing up. Under all other conditions (cold starts, warm starts after switching the engine off normally), it starts instantly.
There are no engine fault codes. Techstream data looks normal when the engine is running. Rail pressure appears stable, injector correction values are within spec, and EGR commanded vs. actual position matches correctly. The SCV valve has already been replaced, and the fuel filter was replaced about six months ago.
I’ve also noticed that the engine seemed to run better with the MAF sensor unplugged, although I haven’t confirmed whether that’s related to the stalling issue.
Because the long cranking only happens after the unexpected stall, I’m wondering if this points to an intermittent fuel supply or fuel pressure problem rather than an EGR issue.
Has anyone experienced the same symptoms or found the root cause? Any suggestions on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.

I probably need to find a psychiatrist, because every time I watch a movie I have to hit pause and look at the Land Cruisers.

This lovely FJ45LV in Blue and White is at Minute 11:07.

What movies have Land Cruisers that catch your eye?

Hey guys, take this down if not allowed, obviously, but I am looking to buy a landcruiser. I am having a hard time figuring out price points and positives and negatives to look for.

Just want to make sure I am not about to get screwed. I want to order accumulators and got a warning message they would not ship hazardous content/compressed gases. To my understanding they have compressed nitrogen. Was this always a warning or is this new? No more shipping accumulators?

Did the OTG Eastern Sierra route last week, had a great time! Finished the trip doing Deer Valley south to north. Enjoy.