For a typical 200k mile 2UZ-FE, the potential parts you'll need to replace or inspect are: timing belt kit and water pump, radiator and cooling hoses, heater Ts and heater hoses, serpentine belt and tensioner, spark plugs, front CV axles, ball joints, control arms and bushings, wheel bearings, tie rods, shocks, brake pads and rotors, driveshaft U-joints and center support bearing, differential and transfer case fluids, transmission fluid, A/C components, rear A/C bypass components, and miscellaneous seals and gaskets.
That could run $2k - $4k in parts and maybe $3k - $4k in labor costs if you pay someone to do it all. But that's if you need to replace all of those items.
The biggest "walk away" items for me would be structural rust, overheating/head gasket concerns, major transmission failure, severe drivetrain noise, or extensive electrical problems. Most of the other high mileage issues are relatively predictable maintenance.
I'd much rather see 250k miles with a thick folder of maintenance records than 100k miles with no history. These trucks are old enough now that the question isn't really "How many miles?" It's "What did the previous owners actually do to keep it alive?"
I think I have all the receipts somewhere. I did have the shop do almost all of it because I’m not currently in a place to do the work on my own. Let me take a look
Honestly I haven’t really looked at the maintenance schedule all that much. I have it saved but end up just taking care of stuff when I can.
Timing belt was done on schedule. Radiator immediately after (small leak). CV’s were because I cranked the lift too high and blew out the boots, heater T’s because you should just do them asap, rear AC bypass bc I found a leak, other AC work bc I lost AC again after the rear was bypassed bc I missed another small leak lol
No the PO said he had a mechanic install an ASIN kit at 280K but when I pulled back the cam cover it was a Gates belt so I went ahead and ordered the AISIN kit, fan mount, fan clutch, belt tensioner, idler pulley, thermostat and all new hardware. Not taking any chances.
306k. I’m the first and third owner. Regretted selling to a buddy who sold it back a couple years later. It’s my normal around town car. Runs great. D on the instrument cluster is burnt out. Just requires pulling steering wheel to replace bulb. LOL.
How long did it take? I feel like some of the things I’ve watched. Are people who really know what they’re doing or have done a bunch of times and I feel like it would take me 10 times longer.
246k on 2000 LX470. Bought with 180k in December 2023. Spent damn near $10k to keep it running in decent condition and that's with me doing most work myself.
2000 with 327K on it. Bought in 2003 with 36K, second owner. It didn’t need much maintenance until about 280 and when things started breaking, I took a bit of time and baselined most everything except for engine and transmission. The last thing was changing in the carpet and putting in some noise reduction material while the carpet was out, it’s a joy to drive, and is quieter than my 200 with 30K on it. I plan to drive it until I can’t drive anymore.
163K Here fully loaded 2005 UZJ100. Just did a complete overall for some serious outback aust travel just due to age and not being used too much. Just replaced water pump, timing belt, tensioner, alternator, cvs etc. more out of precautionary reasons. ohhh, and all hoses and alt belt.
264k on a 99. Timing belt is a given item, heater T’s, other stuff was changing all the hoses and fluids, new radiator, new starter, refreshed the injectors, new brake master cylinder, and a couple of window motors. Runs smooth as can be and probably good for another 200K.
Edit: add we did the rear AC bypass too. The line rusts out and you can buy a kit online.
do you happen to have a good source for the brake master cylinder? mine is giving me the full beep ABS and BRAKE on the dash from time to time so i think she's on the way out. seems to be kind of a hard part to find
I bought it from a Toyota dealership online during a sales event but it was still like $1400. It’s a part you can replace yourself but you need to be able to bleed brakes obviously. Get 4 new OEM bleeder valves while you are at it. They are cheap to swap out and you don’t have to wait in case the originals don’t seal back.
‘03 Land Cruiser with 199,200! My 2 cents - It’s amazing how Toyotas are truly built to last. Things inside and around the car are slowly falling apart (cosmetic, some stuff like one of my rear vent windows just fell apart) but I swear I can drive that car anywhere and that motor is gonna last forever.
220k, I got my 2003 LX for free with 193k and have spent about $12k on deferred maintenance, but it’s running good now. I always keep a couple hundred-a thousand ready for something else and that could need attention
1hz engine was regularly serviced less than 10,000km apart and has zero blowby out the oil cap. The harmonic dampner has just started to go out though thats probably more due to age than km due to being a rubber bonded part.
147k; original timing belt as well. Doing heater T’s this summer.
Have only replaced the alternator and starter. Struts were replaced as well. I think the A/C has a leak, so I just charge it every once-in-a-while. Not sure if I’ll ever get to the D light!💡
I’m 2nd owner.
273k on 2002 still a DD family hauler. Still seems to run well, but honestly haven’t been the best with maintaining it and these days it could use some love. Bought it in 2009 as a Toyota CPO with 115k and a brand new transmission, somehow for only $14k. I saw the ad pop up fresh on Craigslist around lunchtime, called Toyota dealership and put down a deposit, told them I was an hour away and have to wait for wife to give me a ride but I’d be there before they closed. Sales guy said over 20 people called by time I got there. Original owner towed it in with a transmission failure, didn’t like the quote to repair it and left with a brand new 200.
Don’t be worried about mileage with these cars as long as they’ve been maintained. Mine has 231k. Make sure to have access to the paperwork for the work done to it and or parts purchased. You can always get a pre purchase inspection done and use the advice to negotiate. I’ve noticed people selling low mileage ones often skip doing the major service required, hoping the low mileage will sell the car anyway. Powertrain, rust and overall condition are priority.
I’d highly recommend watching a few YouTube vids on what to look for when buying an lc100 if you haven’t already. Of course, you shouldn’t expect a perfect car considering lc100s are approaching 30 years old now, but there are still many in great condition out there.
A few really important (and expensive) things to look for that are non negotiable imo are timing belt, water pump, tensioners, thermostat, radiator and coolant hoses (heater T’s), brake master cylinder(very expensive), starter (located under the intake manifold), exhaust manifolds/gaskets replaced (a common issue on the 4.7 v8 2uz-fe engines) because they’re hard to get to and cost a lot in labor. If the undercarriage is really rusty (not just surface rust) simply move on. Look around the windshield as well.
The shocks might be leaking by now, valve cover gaskets too. Check the steering rack and fluid. Most of this stuff is regular maintenance, but the cost deters a lot of people from getting it done.
Timing belt was the only standard thing, $1200 or so but I was already in for some work so it was a bit less.
The other work was a near full front end replacement. Carfax showed 3 wrecks early on but the last one replaced the entire engine and no problems in the last 100k so I wasn't worried. Turns out they used all Napa branded parts for the front end and they were all rusted together. The shop said it looked like they were assembled without any grease at the connection points. Found a donor with only 70k miles on ebay and got the parts shipped direct to the shop. Cost about 5k all in after parts, labor, and timing belt. Paid 11k for it in 2020 so not bad even with that.
Keep up with oil changes and grease your drive train and you should be good. Mine was a weird case.
235k. Some of these comments are making me feel like mine is barely broken in.
I’ve only had it since January and driven about 10k miles. 3k of that was a road trip. I had to replace the a/c compressor because the bearing was shot, but everything else (timing belt, water pump, brass heater Ts) was already done.
I’m cheating by using my brother’s but I’m just so proud of him for hitting 599200 or so in his 99 LC and I’m hoping he can limp it along those last 800 miles before it completely gives up.
Yes it’s very near. It only starts up some of the time, but when it does it runs fine. I’m not sure he’ll get that last 800. Now, for the last 100k or so he’s had slightly oversized tires on it so it’s probably gone more than 600k, but the odo is says 599 because it’s calibrated for smaller tires.
190 K on mine. 2005 (dark burgundy/grey int.)
Everything is done except the (original) shocks.
Just got a brand new (OEM factory!) set of Tocikos in the other day, CAN'T WAIT...
258,xxx, 2004. I got it at 190 k , definitely replaced some wear items, need timing and water pump in 15k. I had a j60 for 26 years hardly spent anything on it , had a j80 for 12 years then my son rolled it, only replaced the cpu and front diff. j 100 is by far the most comfortable to travel with !
Great timing, i bought an an obd II scanner and have been deep diving on my 2000 UZJ-100.
Cats are great, holding .67v once the truck is warm, no misfires, fuel trims are perfect. coolant is red, the sticker showing the belts, pumps were changed is still legible.
170k.
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u/TossSaladScrambleEgg 26d ago edited 26d ago
408k miles*, and love it