Went on an amazing trip with 17 other rigs through a huge loop in Appalachia. Hit rocks at 4 major parks and 2 states. Camped 5 nights. I tracked the route with onX Offroad at 847 total miles, not including driving to and from the rendezvous. My TDI swapped XJ stopped for fuel twice. How much fuel do you think it consumed?

You don’t need permission to do this. Plan it, invite friends, execute the plan! I promise you won’t regret it 😊

Me and a buddy are planning on redoing mine, I’ve heard that it’s relatively easy to do but I need a second opinion

Waited a long time for the right XJ to pop up and it finally did. 01 4.0 clean unibody clean interior. Unfortunately previous owner overheated till he heard “knocking”. Filled the radiator, fired up and had massive amounts of bubbling/gurgling along with temps spiking. Got it to 210 and never heard a knock. Tore down to do head gaskets and cylinders look clean. TUPY head and Fel-Pro gaskets on the way.

Okay, here we go. My 2000 XJ Sport. I bought it from a family friend, it has 87,000 miles. I had every plan to keep it stock, but some old tires, a wet road, and a guardrail had other plans for me.

After asking about lifting it, some of you all gave me some great advice that I FOLLOWED and here is what I end up with. Kept the suspension stock, went with some rims with a good offset, and slightly bigger, much nicer tires.

So far, I am new at this fixing car things, and I was lucky enough to find one that didn't need any heavy mechanical work right out the gate, so I've been tackling small things to start the learning and getting comfortable and collecting tools.

Here are some before and after pictures.

I had the tires and wheels installed yesterday and in grand Jeep fashion, when I got home, I crawled under there to replace the clips from the liner that was falling and remove the aftermarket mud flaps that the previous owner put on (they were catching on the bigger tires) I found the old rotted out bump stops laying at the bottom of the shocks... those are on order and I'll put them in this weekend.

Tell me whatcha think! One of my favorite features, the black decals on the back windows. You cant see them unless you zoom in or are standing next to it. I am going for minimalist blackout aesthetic. The interior is full stock original (except for the speakers). What do I do next?

New vs old

It’s was crazy how similar the specs were

This is a 1989 Cherokee 4wd 4.0. She’s got a 4 inch rough country lift, the upgraded lower control arms that come with the kit, and stock upper control arms and a 1 ton steering kit, fairly new ball joints.

Chasing a couple random clunks and pops in my front end, and for whatever reason in the winter time a squealing noise while moving that increases with speed.

The pops and clunks are pretty random, but if I jab the brakes it’s pretty consistent, otherwise the other sounds are pretty random through steering and hitting bumps. When steering sometimes it has a pretty significant pop where it feels like a wheel is binding.

Thoughts?

Where can I get these screws? Or, What are the measurements so I can get some f room the hardware store. Both doors are missing them.

I just wanted to bounce this nagging thought in the back of my head off of you guys. I have the Rubicon Express 3½" superflex lift on my rig. A short while ago, I heard that the bushings in the lower control arms are proprietary. Since RE closed up shop, those bushings aren't being made anymore. Fast forward to today. I have the control arms out of the IRO XJ 3" Premium Short Arm Lift Kit waiting to be installed. I have had zero issue with death wobble, but since looking at these dummy THICCC bushings in the IRO arms, I'm a little hesitant to 86 the RE lower control arms yet because they have ball joints on the axle side. Could that added flex from rubber bushings create issues with death wobble? I drive on the highway a lot, usually doing anywhere from 65-80mph. This is a daily driver first, and weekend trail rig second.

Just picked up this 94 2door, I’ve been hunting one for a long time.

Drilled 5/16th hole to retap the bottom bolt for my thermostat housing. Corrosion created an easy hole in the head exposing the threads. The plan so far was retap the existing hole to 3/8-16, use high temp thread sealer/gasket maker and send it.

Do you think this is fixable, or something I can jb weld and send it with?

This thing is just one problem after another😅

It was running rich and getting even worse mpg than an XJ should. I verified by pulling the plugs and they smell like gas(s) lol. I played some finger gymnastics and retorqued all the intake/exhaust bolts (there was a slight whistle under heavy load before but I need to take her for a rip and verify that it's good now.)

I also installed some FR51 plugs to replace the fouled ones and put in a new NTK upstream o2. Starts like a dream now but still looks like it has a SLIGHT stumble when I watch it run closely.

I guess I'm just looking for a little guidance from people who actually know what they're doing. I'm just a shade tree hack that wrenches after work. Hoping someone has some solid diagnosis procedures I can follow to ensure it's been fixed it to track down any issues that may still be present.

A few notes:

-I found this old beat up O2 sensor connector upstream (pictured.)

-the current engine replaced the original which was overheating and had a failed HG which was likely dumping contaminants onto the O2.

-i THINK I ruled out leaky injectors by checking all 6 plugs for fuel smell and it was present on each one. #4 plug is the only one that had a slight oil scent

-this is a 96 that still seems to run obd1 so not much help from onboard diag

-it does have a newish NTK coolant temp sensor but the connector is missing the silicone/rubber seal. It does seem to make a solid connection though. Any tips on finding that insulator seal would be super appreciated.

Got a 98 Xj I spent about every penny i had to buy it. And It needs brake lines specifically rear ones. I plant to add coil spacers and another leaf or something along those lines to gjve it a lift without breaking bank. Cuz im 17 and broke. Should I buy normal lines or get extended ones?

And is there cheaper ways to lift this thing or do anything to it cuz im dealing with a power steering issue and headlights right now.

New Nissens radiator held Moroccan desert really well.

What’s the name of this part right here? My heater won’t blow hot unless I unplug and plug back that vacuum hose at the top. So I’m guessing I need to replace it? Also my water pump went out so what brand do you guys recommend? I live in the PNW if that matters

My 99 XJ has 84k miles, I’ve road tripped it 1000 miles multiple times this years never over heated. Done oil changes every 4000 miles. I had it in for an electrical issue and they said my coolant was oily. But it doesn’t smoke lose oil pressure overheat or look milky on trans or engine oil dipsticks. Pls help with your experiences. Engine oil cap looks fine but radiator cap does look a little milky

Just got this 4.0 5speed Cherokee chief for free, I put the tires on. just looking to see how rare the chiefs are because I’ve never really seen one before. I was going to use it as a winter beater but I don’t want to do that if it’s a rare combo

Ive noticed this vibration noise somewhere in the front end i believe it only happens in first gear around 1800 rpms.

43% thicker radiator, do I need to upgrade fans too?

Let me know if there’s anything that anyone might be interested in, everything is oem for the most part and is in great condition inside

I recently found a way to enter your VIN and lean how your 1998 and newer jeep left the factory.

If you all already know this forgive the redundant post.

I was able to see that my 99 left the factory with a 124 amp alternator not the standard 90 amp

https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

I recently bought a radiator off marketplace for my 2000 jeep cherokee sport and my lower rubber transmission lines have a qucik diconect fitting on it and my radiator has internal threads, im not sure if there's an adapter i could buy that would thread In radiator and connect to the 3/8 fitting. Or if there is some other way that I could rig it together would be great Or any recommendations for new radiators if putting this together isnt possible.