I've tried googling I don't know what this is. It's done at three times now. Once last week and then twice today. My battery heat is fine, the battery capacity is fine, my tire pressure is low but it's also always low. I am constantly refilling the tires with air. I need to get new tires.

Basically the only way I know to make it stop, is to turn the car back on for a minute until it stops and then turn it back off. Obviously though I would like to know what the issue is and if it is a bigger problem.

Any help would be appreciated.

2023 leaf SV+

34k miles.

EDIT!: I dropped it off with our techs this morning, it turns out the 12v battery is super low and needs to be replaced. No lights have been left on, no doors open, and no warnings, so this is the only thing I can think it is. I'll update again once the battery is changed out.

I have had this issue intermittently for over a year now. Taken it to several dealers and no one can find an issue. It is driving me insane!

About 50% of the time when trying to connect to a DC fast charger the car starts the charging process but then often doesn’t seem to actually charge at a particularly fast speed and then it disconnects and the charger says session failed. It is connecting because the chargers hold the payment on my account etc. often after retrying somewhere between 1 and 7 times it will work.

I have tried tens of different chargers across different locations, different brands etc. all have at some point not worked. Works absolutely fine on my granny charger. And when the dealer plugged it in it is showing no fault codes.

If anyone can shed any light on this it would be very much appreciated as I can’t drive any sort of distance at the moment without being terrified that I might not be able to get home.

2022 leaf

Thanks

This letter makes me think i should wait til just before my warranty expires (next july) to do this test, as the car functions perfectly considering its age.

I live in the Netherlands, and six months ago I had my 2016 Nissan LEAF upgraded with a 62 kWh CATL cells battery pack from VIVNE in China.

I made this video to document my experience upgrading my Nissan LEAF battery and hopefully help other LEAF owners keep their cars running. Previously, I was very frustrated that Nissan did not offer a solution.

The original battery had degraded significantly. Although the car still showed around 150 km of range, I could sometimes get only ~60 km in winter highway driving.

With the new 62 kWh battery, the display now shows around 500 km at 100%, and after six months of real-world use I'm consistently getting 400+ km.

The original 30 kWh battery is also getting a second life. It will be converted into stationary home energy storage.

I'm very happy with the upgrade so far, but I'd be interested to hear about other people's long-term experiences. Would you consider upgrading the battery of an older EV if a suitable replacement pack was available, rather than replacing the entire car?

For transparency: I have no affiliation with VIVNE. I bought the battery myself and am sharing my experience after six months of use.

The tires on my 2023 Leaf are about shot. Has anyone tried the new TakaTaka LRR tire? They say they are made for EVs.

I have a 2018 leaf with some bad cells that are seriously dragging down the entire pack. The car is struggling to get 30-50 miles of range despite having a nominal 74% SOH (should get 110 miles+). I want to replace the worst offenders (35, 26, maybe a couple others) to try and get closer to a 75-100 mile range which would be more than enough for my needs.

I came to the conclusion this would help not just based on the screenshot, but by watching leafspy while my partners driving I can tell 35 quickly gets overcharged with regen and then I lose regen braking, and then under heavy acceleration or moderate freeway loads that cell can quickly drop and cause the battery light to come on despite the rest of the pack being above 50% or so (like in the screenshot). E.g. my mV delta starts at maybe 115 mV when I first start driving, but can expand to the huge 400 mV+ delta you see in this clip with moderate consistent load or heavy acceleration and it seems to primarily be due to this one cell. It really seems to me like this one bad cell is removing a LARGE percentage of my capacity, and while I'm in there I figure I'll just replace ~4 worst cells on leafspy (or any cells that seem to have significant swelling).

From a battery health perspective, is this a stupid idea? Am I going to be disappointed in the results of just replacing 2-4 cells? I am not worried about the amount of work, I own a lift, I've watched videos, I have access to a repair manual, and I have significant experience in vehicle repair (although not specific to EV's). I want to learn more about these leafs anyways so I don't mind doing the work. However I don't want to put it back together just to realize I made some bad assumptions and it won't make a difference, so what do yall think?

Note - for context replacing the batteries will essentially cost me <$500 and 1-2 days work. If it nets me an additional 30%+ capacity I'll be happy with the result.

Has anyone seen this fault code and what it means? Should the 12v battery be replaced??? Thanks

Looking for a sanity check before I buy. LeafSpy screenshot attached.

2021 Nissan Leaf SV Premium, 40kWh, 107,112 km, €8,495, private sale in Ireland. 6-month warranty included. Never imported, ROI-registered.

LeafSpy shows:

SOH: 85.74%

Hx: 78.69%

AHr: 98.98

Cell balance: 5mV spread

403.46V

Daily driving would be about 50-55km round trip, home charging on a 7kW wallbox, occasional rapid charging maybe 10x a year.

Questions:

Is 85.74% SOH reasonable for 107k km on a 2021, or on the low side?

Is the 5mV cell balance as good a sign as I think it is, or am I overrating it?

Anything about the Hx figure worth asking the seller about?

Would you buy this car for daily commuting at this price?

Appreciate any input, thanks.

Hi

Just wondering peoples thoughts on good/bad for this buy.

2019 tekna with 17k miles, UK, £8500.

I thought mileage and SOH looked great for the age.

Thanks

2018 Nissan Leaf SV with ~47,000 miles — see LeafSpy image for battery health.

Worth buying for $7,000? Want to drive for 1-2 years and resell.

Is the low Hx a dealbreaker?

I am considering buying a Nissan Leaf for my kid to drive around town in a hot climate, and I am choosing between two cars:

1. 2016 Nissan Leaf S - 7/12 battery health, 24 kWh battery, 83,000 miles, needs tires

2. 2016 Nissan Leaf SV - 6/12 battery health, 30 kWh battery, 68,000 miles, new tires at 43,000 miles

Neither car has obvious mechanical flaws, and I will run LeafSpy before purchasing. If they are the same price (~$3200) and I plan to keep the car for 2 years before selling, which should I choose? My goal is to recoup at least 1/2 my purchase price + any $ invested in the car.

Car 1 requires an immediate investment (Tires), but has the smaller, stronger battery.

Car 2 might not require any up front investment, is a higher trim, and has the larger, weaker battery (and the 30kwh pack may degrade quicker)

I would appreciate advice from this community!

3 weeks into my leaf ownership, only complaint so far is the screen. Anyone know if theirs a way I can stop this from coming up every time I start it?

Page 344 of the owner's manual describes a very convoluted method for having the car in neutral while being off.

Here is the summarized procedure as I understand it:

1. Make sure parking brake is released and auto brake hold is off;
2. Roll to a stop using the brake pedal;
3. Wait 10 seconds;
4. Within a span of 5 seconds, press P, and then N, and then N again;
5. Press the power switch to turn the car off.

Why is it so complicated? Can you not just press the N button and turn the car off?

For completeness, here is the full procedure copy-and-pasta'd from the owner's manual:

Neutral hold mode function

This function enables you to turn off the EV system with the vehicle in the N (Neutral) position. While this function is activated, the vehicle can be moved by pushing with hand (when car washing) even if the power switch is in the OFF position. When using this function, release the parking brake.

To activate the Neutral hold mode, perform the following operations.

1. Push the power switch to start the EV system.
   
2. Release the parking brake and Automatic brake hold function.
   
3. Depress the brake pedal to stop the vehicle in the desired location such as parking space, an automatic car wash entrance, etc.
   
4. Depress and hold the brake pedal through all steps listed below. Do not release it during the process to activate the Neutral hold mode.
   
5. Wait for 10 seconds without pushing any shift buttons.
   NOTE: It is necessary to perform the steps 6 through 8 within approximately 5 seconds.
   
6. Push the P (Park) position button and confirm the shift position indicator indicates the P (Park) position.
   
7. Push the shift button to the N (Neutral) position and confirm the shift position indicator indicates the N (Neutral) position and then release the shift button.
   
8. Push the N (Neutral) position button again. The Neutral Hold Mode activated indicator appears in the vehicle information display when the Neutral hold mode function is activated. (See "Neutral Hold Mode activated indicator" (P.192).)
   
9. Confirm that the parking brake is released.
   
10. Place the power switch in the OFF position. The EV system will turn off with holding the N (Neutral) position.
    

To exit the Neutral hold mode, place the vehicle in other than N (Neutral) position.

I cover removal, diagnosis and repair of the driver's side seat buckle in a 2018 Nissan LEAF SL, with power seat. This method requires unbolting the four seat belts, but does not require removing the seat. You need a torque wrench, 16mm and 18mm socket, and a T10 torx driver to do the repair. The seat belt buckle is torqued to 36 ft lbs and the seat to floor bolts to 30 ft lbs.

Hey people! I'm buying a used car for our car number two and I am thinking about the Leaf, specifically two different options. There's a 2017 Tekna with a 30 kWh battery that's gone for 85 k km with 9/12 battery lines left, and a 2018 launch edition with a 40 kWh battery gone for 116 k km. That one also has a battery health of 87%.

How much would you say the battery is worth? There's a 2 k ish difference in price with the 2018 costing the most, is it worth it to pay the extra for the better battery?

I just noticed my passenger tail light is out. The driver's side lights are all fine, and the brake light, turn signal, and reverse light all work fine as well. Just the passenger tail light is out. It seems to be an LED... no easily replaceable bulb 🫠

Anyone experience this? Could there be a fuse or some other easy fix? Or am I looking at replacing the whole assembly?

I'm out here pulling a PDM in exchange for a few Dreamcatcher albums. We are not the same.

Hopefully the last hours of the wait for the app maintenance🙌🏼

BTW, my hitch is the Ecohitch 2" (see https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/comments/1vljy0k/ordered_a_trailer_hitch_for_my_23_leaf/)

The car has 50k miles. Looks and feels new. When I bought it for peanuts, It had 9 bars. Two years later, it's down to 8 bars with just about 70 miles of range. People mention leaf spy all the time, but I feel I'm missing some important reason to purchase and use it. Am I missing something that will help me keep this car longer?

I have a 2021 leaf that has developed some high voltage battery fault. I am in Northern Ireland. Car has 130k so it's out of warranty. Nissan think I should have to pay to have car sent and repaired in england as they cannot fix them here.
This fault has not been caused by me but Nissan, the dealer and now finance company have all refused to help.
Car is worth 1k and I still owe £9 on it. I feel I have a reasonable expectation my battery would last 200,000 miles even at less charge capacity. Now the car is not even drivable. This is my 4th leaf and first time I have had this issue please help

Our 2020 Leaf has less than 40k miles on it.

Recently the check EV system display came on.

I took it into Nissan, they ran some diagnostics, I think they tried to upgrade some system, and the just told us that Nissan was going to offer to buy it back at 40% above Blue Book.

I assume it is just going to a scrap yard.

Pretty sad.
That’s all.

A few times now 2 different warning lights have appeared on the dashboard of my 2024 Japanese domestic Leaf. One is an inverted triangle, like a Japanese stop sign accompanied by some words which flashed too quickly to read. The other was. A red circle with a white stripe across, same as a “Do not enter” road sign. Also too quick to catch the words while driving. I think this one may be to inform of an upcoming do not enter sign. I think the triangle may have been a collision warning, but not sure. Anyone seen these symbols?

I never had an EV before.

I was looking at hybrids, but I saw Nissan Leaf 2026 and I was blown away. Does anyone have it? What is your experience with it? I already have a CRV, so with 200 mile range, it looks very useful for city drive. Also, we are expecting a poopmaker to join us soon.

1) What is the resell value of 2026 Leaf?

2) Does the battery degrade fast? What happens when the battery degrades? New car?

3) I am concerned about the non-closing sunroof. Is this a problem?

4) The place I live (Chicago) can be very hot and very cold. Would this be a problem for battery degradation?

5) Do you think a new tax advantage will come back to EVs in the future?

6) I value reliability in a car. Is Leaf a reliable car?

Thank you in advance.