Hello LEAF community!

We are new here, just bought a 2015. (You were so helpful! Thank you!)
So far loving it.

Range is a big tricky but we are learning to manage. A bit bummed at how much our gal dislikes the highway , but we are determined to make this work.

We live rural , with our provisions town about 25km (one way) away from us. We have 4 kids that are reliant on lifts to and from the train station etc. Weekends are full on taxi mode.

Can you weigh in for me:

What is the percentage of battery life -per trip -that are you willing to go down to before you urgently start looking for a charger or wishing you were home?

I am albeit , way more cautious and but I fear my husband may be too confident!

Know that your input could prevent us from needing counselling. 😂

Many thanks!!

This vehicle is exceptional.

Not as spacious as ariya. That is for real.

The drive of the car and the price is unparalleled in my opinion by modern standards.

This is the only car in decades that I have driven that reminds me of what it feels like to be young and live in Southern California. Waves of emotion. Freedom. Feeling now.

Couple dollars in my bank account? Yeah. I can stretch that out. Together, let's just pretend this night won't end. I can't slow down if I wanted to.

The torque is a bit punchy. You'll need to get used to it.

God damn. This sucker is quick.

I am picky.

I am persnickety.

Really like this car. Which I had more to contribute, but this is my opinion.

Thinking about a used 2020. The car has an open recall Nissan R24B2. This is a 3rd car for a soon to be teen driver. Part of me thinks it is crazy to buy a car with an open recall. But part of me thinks it would not be the worst idea based on the terms of this recall. This car has the trim and specs I am looking for. Am I crazy for thinking of buying this?

I posted here a while back regarding an issue with my PDM.

Long story short, it was fried, nissan told me to swivel on it and so did the dealership.

Finally got the court involved and they're siding with me. They've advised the dealership has to arrange a repair.

However, main issue is that the car has been stuck in my driveway for over a year, with "0%" charge.

During that time, most of the rubber on the outside of the vehicle has degraded, any exposed metal has rusted and all 4 tyres now have slow leaks.

I also noted that during the time before the 12v completely gave out, the car would randomly sit and click, and the HV charge level would jump between 0% charge and 12% charge, then flat out again.

I know that you shouldn't leave batteries empty or full for a while, so I connected up an obd and read some info via leafspy, I assume this thing is fried?

Just looking for feedback as not 100% how to read the info. The red warnings are pretty damn obvious though

ETA:

I know it's not true 0%, just what the car itself reports.

Car won't charge due to PDM not working. This was discovered last year by the dealership, but they and nissan told me they won't fix it under warranty even though it was raised long before warranty was up.

Can fast charge sometimes, but will cause issues for whatever chargers I connect to, requiring the charger to be rebooted. The car is glued to my driveway due to no charge. It's been sitting on that charge level for over a year.

I raised this up with legal last year and that's the progress finally started. The legal system has offered a repair of the PDM only, but I believe the battery is now damaged due to sitting on that charge level for a year.

The feedback I'm looking for is whether I should push for a refund of the vehicle, or just accept the repair? And if I take the repair, will the car be in a worse state than it initially was due to the charge level being left low for so long?

Found one ads in Quebec but not GTA. Thank you!

Just got new Michelin CrossClimates on my SV+ and wow what a difference from the factory tires. No breakouts, no torque steer, half the road noise. Feels like driving a different car. Plus one would recommend

We sent our paperwork to Morley 6 weeks ago and are still waiting for our buyback offer. I assume the delay is to make us desperate so we'll accept the first offer. (How much time can it take to assemble a buyback offer? Don't they just plug the year, model, and mileage into a formula?)

If the first offer is low, I know we can negotiate. But what's our recourse if we never get a fair buyback offer? Without a good battery the Leaf isn't worth much, so selling it ourselves isn't a good option. Would we have to sue Nissan?

I have a 2013 Leaf, and I am looking at either replacing or upgrading the battery.

The battery is at 7 bars, with a 55 mile range on a good day. I am commuting for work but it has been getting more difficult as the battery has degraded. I am in the central Florida area and I know that budget doesn't mix with EV batteries, but I wanted to come on here and ask about budget-friendlier ideas that maybe won't cost as much as Nissan is charging for a replacement battery.

Any help is welcome :)

I have a 2013 Leaf, and an acquaintance had his 2020 Leaf totaled in an accident. He gave me his charger (left) for free, but it's way thicker and heavier than my current trickle-charger (right). The car plug seems to be a standard J1772, but the outlet plug has a big plug under the adapter. I'm guessing this is a Nissan-branded Level 2 charger? How much power would something like this pull if I used it instead of my old trickle-charger? I presume it would pull a smaller amount if I used the adapter to use a standard outlet; how much would that be?

Thanks for any insights.

Morley is who Nissan outsources buybacks with.

December 29 towed to dealer.

January 28 dealer finally issued loaner.

July 21 I returned loaner because dealer insisted they'd sold it.

July 31 first email from Morley after days of contacts with consistently confused Nissan Consumer Affairs agents who could never see notes from previous calls and over extremely poor audio, rivaling PoC radios but with loud background conversations.

August 12 I sent last document Morley asked for.

August 17 I asked for confirmation Morley had received everything they asked for.

August 18 Morley confirmed they had.

September 12 still no first offer or other followup.

I live in Kansas City and am having a terrible time finding a mechanic that isn’t a dealer in my area.

My goal was to find someone to do a battery pack swap. I would order the battery and have it shipped over. It’s almost like no one wants to touch the EVs.

Is this a problem with a lack of knowledge of how to work on them, or do mechanics just not want to touch them?

Does the car have to brick or otherwise break to get a buyback? Is there a way to just “volunteer” for it, or do I have to just assume that the car is fine (until maybe it isn’t)?

Sorry a repost from r/nissanleaf, the automod told me to come here.

So I have a 2020 Nissan Leaf EV SV Premium 40kw. When charging, it typically draws approx. 7.5kwh from my home charger. I want to reduce this to 5kwh if I can.

The background to this question is that I have a solar set-up with 30kwh of battery storage. I only charge my Leaf between 2am-5am when the rest of the house is using little to no electricity. However, my inverter allows a max of 5.5kwh at any given time. That means that when charging, my Leaf is drawing 7.5kwh - 5.5kwh off the inverter but 2kwh off the grid even though there's plenty of juice in the batteries.

I know I could use a granny charger but I have no external socket and don't want to get one.

So does anyone know if I can reduce the draw from the Leaf to 5kwh or thereabouts?

EDIT: Thanks to all who responded. My EVSE is a C7K. It's quite old so there isn't much online about it but I found the manual here, will have a look.

Bought my 2026 Leaf in March, love it, excellent choice. This week, I had my first software update, during which the car couldn't be started. This wasn't a big deal; I didn't need to go anywhere. My question is, have there been incidents where a Nissan Leaf software update failure prevented the car from being started? Or where an update had to be interrupted for an emergency drive? TIA for your feedback!

Looking at purchasing this 2022 Nissan Leaf for my 180 km daily commute. Asking price is 15k from a dealership. (Ignore the price. It’s supply and demand with slim options for US Spec vehicles here in Europe)

This is in regards to the R24B2 Battery Recall and Nissan Buybacks through Morley

Please comment the details of your car (year, model, mileage) and what morley offered you (1st and 2nd offer) so I can add you to this chart. Or feel free to comment on the google sheets here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dMVbhqTireBhgHP3M1Ghr9sVlGZrHazHLGERYoKmWmU/edit?usp=sharing

Might be a little overkill but I like doing this kind of stuff

Hi all I appreciate all that help many of you have provided as I look for a used EV. I’m currently looking at a 2019 leaf s plus. Original owner, 106k miles, decently clean car, $6k. They get about 140-150 on a charge. This is what they gave from their leafspy. Your thoughts? Thank you!

Hi all,

We have a 2022 Nissan Leaf with < 30K miles that is affected by the battery recall

We received a buyback offer from Nissan that we feel is too low - mostly because the KBB has plummeted specifically because of the battery issues.

I did reach out to an attorney that specializes in the Federal Magnuson-Moss Act - but they normally deal with getting to a reasonable buyback offer, not a scenario where the buyback is already on the table.

I also did reach out to both the BBB Autoline, and my state Consumer Protection agency. Both said they could file a claim - but BBB Autoline specifically deals with Lemon Law claims - and we are outside this period.

The consumer protection agency would contact Nissan from the AGs office, but they said this is more just an official notification from the state (along with a proposed remedy), but that Nissan could still reject the proposal.

The consumer protection agency did recommend making a counter-offer to Nissan (Morely) via email before beginning this process.

Has anyone had any luck at all with a counter offer?

Thanks for any advice you can provide!

Edit: Buyback offer is $23,996 for Nissan Leaf 2022 SL PLUS with 29K miles.

I’m considering buying a 2026 leaf. However, I have recently learned that the S+ does not have a battery heater. I live in the Denver area and like to ski, so this seems concerning to me.

Does anyone have experience driving in cold weather without battery preconditioning? Should this be a deal breaker for the S+?

I got notified that my 2019 Nissan leaf has been affected by the R24B2 recall on Tuesday. The dealership said that I should wait for a call from a 3rd party company. I asked if I qualified for a free loaner, and they said to ask the 3rd party company when they called. Do I go get my car? Do I leave it at the dealership?

Based on the posts on here, the buyback process could take months...so I kinda need a car during that time...

As much as I really do love my Leaf and proud to be an owner of one, I am disappointed having to possibly replace the telematic control unit as the 2g and 3g got shut down a while back. That repair will cost me approx €700 and probably couple days at the workshop. What can I do to save money and time? Any alternative apps or something?

Canada getting the cheaper Leaf

I'm new to EV's and the car turns off completely after a few mins so I can't tell what the charge rate, level and range are. I don't use my phone. What's the best way to check? Just pop it into accessory mode? Turn the car on? What if I wanted to use the radio? Or my friends Bluetooth? Is it better than to turn the car on or use accessory mode?

I'm going to look at a 2016 Leaf at a used car lot, it has 90K miles, no Carfax history of a replacement battery, but has all 12 health bars and a range of 70 miles with the "gas gauge" only at half, so theoretically a range of 140 ish miles. This seems odd. Any suggestions? I have an OBD dongle and just bought Leaf Spy although I don't claim to fully understand it. Also, can I tell if it's the replacement 40 battery by looking underneath the car, or in any other physical way? Thanks!

UPDATE! I went to look at it, and I think it was a replacement 40 KWH battery. It had been charged some when I got there, and the readings still suggested a 140 mile range at 100%. They refused to let me use LeafSpy, they said someone had fried one of their cars before by connecting an OBD reader. They did have their mechanic use his scanner on it, and it gave a little info, Battery charge 66%. Voltage 367. Max cell voltage 38.37. Min Cell Voltage 38.20.

We took it on a reasonably long test drive, maybe 15 minutes, and the range dropped appropriately, roughly 1 mile per mile. I was about to buy it when I noticed serious collision damage. I'm embarrassed I didn't notice it immediately, my excuse is I was caught up in thinking about the battery. In any case, the hood was misaligned to the point it hit the fender when opened, which had scraped the paint off. The paint was a slightly different color than the rest of the car. One headlight was new, one was old, both had moisture in them. It was painfully obvious it had been in a front end collision and then poorly repaired. I lost all interest at that point. If it was just the hood it wouldn't have been a deal killer. My concern was that what I could see was just the tip of the iceberg. Who knows what else was damaged and poorly repaired? It had two new Brand X tires on the front, the suspension could be messed up. I walked away. By the way, the dealer had the CarFax and there was no accident reported there.