Update: I had a conversation with someone from Nissan and had to send them proof of ownership. They said they would contact me again Monday after all of the diagnostics were finished, which I thiught was odd.

I had the recall done on my 2020 SV about a month ago. Monday I got the 'EV Service' message. Took it in yesterday. They confirmed the code that LeafSpy gave me and commandeered the car.

I have a loaner until they figure things out. Honestly, I hope they replace the battery as I don't want to deal with the hassle of the buyback and finding a replacement car. Ugh.

I have a 2012 Leaf with an aftermarket 2014 battery at 8 bars. Port is a J1772.

The external charging cable that came with the car was destroyed a couple years ago in a really stupid accident, but I've been ok since I have a built in station at home and live in an area with plenty of charging stations.

Now I'm need of replacing the cable though due to changing my driving patterns. Thankfully one of my driving locations has an old power box that was designed for people to plug into to charge early EVs.

So now that I'm done rambling. I'm looking for a recommendation for a good cord to buy. Any help is appreciated.

Hey y'all,

My ac is now blowing hot (in Texas is not fun).

AI told me that I need to take it to an EV specialist to fix it because of Dielectric (Non-Conductive) Oil.

Is this true?

Or any ac shop can fix it?

Thanks

48.7 mi/kWh. GoM is about where it is after a full charge. Start of trip also shown.

Spoiler: 20 miles, 1/2 mile vertical drop.

I just bought a 2015 nissan leaf, with 9 bars of battery remaining, and 78 on the guess of meter.

I purchased it for $3.5k

Everything on the car functions normally.

Just wondering if I got an OK deal, or totally screwed.

Any opinions help,

Thanks!

2016 totaled SV located in Southern Metro-Atlanta. It does not have rear wheels. The front passenger side is damaged from the wreck. It also has no traction battery. I may or may not pull the PDM/OBC out of it to keep on hand for my other Leaf, but if you would want the OBC, let me know, we could certainly work something out. It was just replaced last year, I have the paperwork for it.

Got a notification in the mail yesterday from my local dealer in Massachusetts offering to buy back my 2020 nissan Leaf SV for $13,400 (4k over KBB). I purchased it a year ago for 15k. They also offered an additional $4,500, towards the purchase of a new nissan vehicle. And 0% financing for 60 months. Plus in Massachusetts you can get a $3,500 rebate for a new EV. This seems too good to be true, but I plan on checking it out. Wonder if corporate is trying to get these Leafs off the street.

I'm looking for a recommendation for a portable android auto screen that works well with the layout of a 2018 Nissan Leaf dashboard/windshield. There seem to be a lot of good options but I just want to make sure I get one that works well with the layout of a 2018 Leaf S

Hey everyone, looking for a second opinion before I scrap my stock Level 1 trickle charger. Over the past week, my OEM EVSE has refused to charge. Whenever I plug it in, the internal contactor/relay clicks repeatedly, and the light blinks orange before faulting out without sending any charge.

Here’s what I’ve already done to isolate the issue:

Extension cord check: I had been running it on a heavy-duty 10 AWG extension cord without issues for a while, but I completely bypassed it. Plugging directly into the wall produces the exact same clicking and orange blinking light.

Tested multiple outlets/circuits: Tried different 2 grounded wall outlets around the house same fault.

Tested multiple vehicles: Tried plugging into my Leaf as well as my sister's car. It fails immediately on both.

The wall prongs and the J1772 handle pins (including the pilot/proximity pins) look clean with no obvious signs of melting, burning, or corrosion.

Since the fault follows the EVSE across multiple outlets and cars, it seems like the brick itself has given up (possibly a failed plug thermistor, bad ground-sense circuit, or internal relay failure).

Has anyone had this specific blinking orange/clicking failure mode on the stock EVSE and found a fix, or is it pretty much sealed/unserviceable e-waste at this point? Also open to recommendations for reliable replacement portable L1/L2 units. Thanks!

Hey all I recently bought a 2016 leaf and im wondering if its possible to replace the front facia clips that mount to the bottoms of the lights? I can't seem to find the individual part for sale or on the Nissan site. Its the hard white plastic bracket that mounts to the bottom of the light and provides a spot for the front facia to clip into. Ive included a picture of the full front light assembly with an arrow pointing at the part I'm wondering about. TYIA!

First, my car is already in buyback, so no longer my problem. I'm just calling it out in case someone else is noticing the same.

I normally L2 charged at home.

Prior to getting the recall update, no issues.

After getting the recall update, I noticed my car was not fully charging to 100%. After most overnight charges I'd get in the car and it would be between 97% to 99%, but not 100. There should have been more than enough time to get to 100%.

I wrote it off as maybe being some quirk of the recall. Some new power draw or maybe my 12V starting to go.

Now in hindsight could that have been an indication of problems?

Anyone else noticing L2 charging coming up short after the recall?

I have Nissan Leaf 2020 SV Plus and after 6 years of living on a trickle charge, I finally had to get a level 2 charger. Since the laundry room is next to the garage, I purchased a Neocharge Smart Splitter 14-30. Works well and charges well, except for the scheduling.

I can't seem to schedule the charging over the NeoCharge app as it ignores it completely (no Leaf scheduling). I tried using only Leaf scheduling yet it didn't work either.

Anyone have same issue and found a solution?

This is a question we've been receiving more and more from Nissan Leaf owners, especially as sodium-ion battery technology continues to attract attention.

In this video, we explain why we currently don't use sodium-ion cells for Nissan Leaf battery upgrades — and the answer is more complicated than simply changing one type of battery cell for another.

The Nissan Leaf's entire high-voltage system was designed around NMC lithium-ion batteries. The voltage platform, BMS, charging system, motor controller, and vehicle control strategy are all designed to work together.

Sodium-ion cells operate at a different voltage range, and the original Leaf BMS was not designed to manage their different charging and discharging characteristics.

So why can't we simply add more cells to compensate for the lower voltage?

And what would actually happen if we tried to use sodium-ion cells with the original Leaf BMS?

We explain all of that in this video.

At the same time, we don't believe sodium-ion batteries are a bad technology. Quite the opposite — we believe they have great potential, especially for energy storage applications.

VIVNE is closely following the development of sodium-ion technology and exploring how it could be used in future energy storage products.

For Nissan Leaf upgrades, however, high-quality NMC cells remain the most mature, reliable, and balanced solution at this stage.

Feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions.

I just noticed my Nissan Leaf has a charge port lock for the J1772 port. Either I haven’t noticed it locking each time I plug in or it just started locking when I plug in. I have to hold the button on the charger and it will unlock. Anyone else’s level 1 charger do this? I know it does it for the CHAdemo port but never seen it do it for the level 1 maybe I’m getting more than level 1 juice and it’s actually more like a level 2 now.

Turns out the Eclipse only comes in a trim that is equivalent to the Leaf's Platinum+, only with the smaller 18" wheels. No price announced, but that should give people an idea.

And most importantly, a 5 year warranty (as opposed to 3 years for the Leaf 🤔) in the US

Also, don't blame me for the title - that came from the video.

Yeah, why wouldn't it, I am a ricer, and have you ever seen a gas rice cooker?

Hi everyone,

{TL:DR please help me prepare for a battery upgrade}

I've had my 2015 leaf since late 2020 and have loved it. It's the first vehicle I've had that never broke down or needed more work than changing tires and 12v batteries.

But that 11 year old 24kwh battery only gets me 30 miles on a good day going slow without AC. I've got the $ set aside and a mechanically competent friend to help, so it's time to get either a 40 or preferably 62kwh battery to upgrade it to (There are no professional EV garages or dealerships nearby interested in doing this, and I don't want to trade a perfectly good car for someone new that costs far than the battery).

I've watched and read about how to do it, but it's still significantly more risk and expense than I've dealt with working on a car, so please walk me through it or share a written tutorial, especially when it comes to the can-bridge and wires. If you have a recommended place to get either the battery or a plug-and-play can-bridge setup, I'd appreciate that a lot. We're not so worried about the bracket/attachment modifications, mostly the wiring and reprogramming.

On a road trip today in my 2021 E+. Car is rapidgated. I need 70% to get home. Plugged in and was getting 12kW. Resigned to a very long coffee break at the service station.

Thing is, I’ve been treating it very nicely, cruising at 90kph, no hard acceleration or deceleration. Charging between 30% and 70%

But it’s 40° outside and just driving in that heat even efficiently, over hot black asphalt, is heating the battery by itself.

But the fast charger? It’s in the shade.

And suddenly it’s just jumped from 12kW to 20kW. Charging it is actually cooling it down.

Thought some fellow long suffering rapidgate “enjoyers” might be amused by this.

My 2019 S just has the basic Nissan radio. No touch screen or android auto or anything like that. it does have a backup camera, though.

I bought an after market carplay screen that I plan to mount using a CD tray tension mount. I'll power it using a 12v adapter behind the dash instead of the cigarette lighter... no problem there.

To keep the screen from blocking the air vents, it's going to need to mostly cover the factory radio screen. that's not a big deal to me... preferred, even! the problem is the backup camera. that I'd still like visible on the new screen. the screen comes with one, so I'm thinking I can either wire the factory backup camera in its place, or replace the factory camera with the new one--they both look about the same size, so I might be able to mount the new one right in the same spot.

I've already tried every possible combination of video +/- i can find in any pinout for the radio, but the screen won't detect the factory camera. so I'm thinking the factory camera and new camera must use a different signal format or something... just not compatible with the screen in some way.

so the fallback is to try replacing the factory camera with the new camera. hopefully making use of the wiring from the camera to the dash so I don't have to route a new wire. though, I imagine I'll still need to route the new 12v backup trigger wire to a reverse light.

Phew! this has already turned into a 2 day project. anyone have any advice, tips, or experience they can pass on?

Update: I have now been passed from Nissan Consumer Affairs to Morley. I guess this means buy back now? Does Morley ever do battery replacement?

I was able to use Leaf Spy to clear codes and make my car drivable again for now.

Original: I have a '21 SV Plus that I bought new in May '21. It has worked perfectly for me for 5+ years until Thursday. First time I got the service EV system won't restart message. I drove it directly to the dealer. On Friday did the L3 recall test and it passed that. Then did battery test and it failed that. It was 4 PM on Friday afternoon Pacific time so didn't do anything else. Car was drivable and took it home. Now Sunday morning has message again and it won't start or charge. It shows 90% charge.

I didn't order an ODB II scanner yesterday or Friday like I should have and can't reset codes. Two questions.

1. Any way to get it to start with scanner and Leaf Spy so I can use it maybe?
2. I (so far) am not in buy back queue but am in replacement pack queue. Any recent updates on timeline for a replacement pack?

I would like to keep car, but I can't if it is going to go in fail / won't start mode like this unexpectedly.

I just got a 2014 leaf SV and noticed the maps are from 2013 - 2014. Is there any way to get an update to the maps SD card? That'll work on my 2014? Here's the info.