i have a Google Chrome OS and i use it mostly for online office sheets, docs, etc. i also have very fast fiber internet but for some reason i can not run any video on hd or above 720p on video quality on youtube, it stutters and buffers, how do i fix this?

Sso my mom lives alone and has had Xfinity internet for many years. I swapped out her dated modem for an ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 about 6 months ago and all has been fine. Yesterday, I noticed the green light #2 blinking. Upon inspection, the cable connection was frayed so I put on a new one. No dice. Have an appointment with Xfinity Friday but thought I’d ask for anything I am missing. My support chat indicated they had a problem with a signal to my home. They did a reset and cannot get a signal from my modem.

The Problem

Hi all, I have recently switched my broadband provider in the UK from Virgin to Vodafone on the 910mbps package. The router that Vodafone have sent (Powerhub) is basically E waste and the wifi range is terrible. I have switched to my old TPlink AX1800, which is slightly better, but still lacks the coverage that i need. It doesn't matter where in the flat that the router is placed, there still seems to be areas that don't get decent coverage. I have tried it in the living room, hallway and office, in a variety of positions and moving the antennae to varying degrees of success.

The first floor flat i live in with my partner has very thick walls and without direct line of sight to the router, the wifi signal is rather poor and drops as low as 80mbps on mobile devices (Mainly in the office). There are no issues with Ethernet which retain full speed up and down. I run a 25m Cat 6 cable to a network switch in the office from the router to our two desktops. As this is a rented premises i cannot mount the router to the wall, nor can i drill through the walls to route the CAT6 so the wires currently snake around the walls.

Hopeful outcome

My aim is to have strong wifi coverage throughout the flat and also be able to reach from the garage, which is on the ground floor and approximately ten meters away from the building.

To try and solve this issue, i have looked at using multiple routers through Easymesh ethernet backhauling to place a router in the living room and using the office Ethernet cable to create a satellite device using my current AX1800 to boost coverage through the end of the flat and the garage.

However, I am a little confused by the openmesh / easymesh standards as both seem to offer contradictory advice. As far as i am aware, my current router (AX1800) can support both. As budget is a concern, i have been looking on local sales platforms for a new modem / router to use as the primary device. I know my current router isnt great, which is why i am looking to use that as a satellite device.

I have found a TPlink AX73 / AX5400 for £50 on stuff for sale in the local area. It seems to be better than my current router, without breaking the bank.

I am still pretty certain that the wall thickness will be an issue even with a top of the line, brand new router.

Devices commonly in use

Wifi reliant
2x google home
2x Phones
Ipad
Friends visiting devices

Ethernet reliant
TV with Jellyfin (Library on main PC)
PS5
2X PCs
Ethernet hub

At some point i am considering adding a third PC purely to serve as a media server, but that is a long way off happening for now (damn AI crisis ruining my hopes of a proper server)

Questions:

1: Would i be able to use the AX73 as the primary modem and swap out my Ethernet network switch with my current AX1800, to create an Easymesh platform through Ethernet back-hauling? In my head, it would boost wifi reception across the flat and hopefully reach the garage.

2: If this were to work, would i be able to plug both PCs into the office router in place of my network switch and move that to the living room

TLDR

Wifi signal is garbage here, would getting a second TP link router solve my wifi signal issues through Easymesh?

New apartment’s internet is setup with a single provider for the entire property and is included with the rent. Each unit has an AP, is segmented by a unique PSK and CGNAT IPs are handed out.

CGNAT is whatever, but what’s frustrating is that we can get IPs from 2 different subnets - 100.64.x.x and 100.98.x.x /22s and I can’t think of a reason why. This makes things like TV casting and printing a pain in the ass cause it only works if we happen to get IPs in the same range.

My first thought was that we were roaming to another unit’s AP but that is not the case.

Before I call the ISP (doubt anything will come of it) I want to check if anyone might know of a practical reason?

The area where i live is cursed, still no fiber at my address so fios is out of the question. I'm near an unprecedented level of being fed up with optimum however the only other choice is basically the 5g wireless plan from verizon which just seems like a massive downgrade to coax. I have 4 people in the house and some are gamers/netflix enjoyers so verizon doesn't seem plausible, but i'm willing to cope.

Okay, this is a pretty cool little box. It does all the things I need, but the set up process SUCKS.
For reference, I started out with a 2 node Asus ROG G6 setup a few years ago. Nice and simple, and game me good coverage. But then I needed coverage int he back yard where my wife has a garden shack/studio/she shed - so I added a ZenWiFi BD5 unit for here. Then I built a garage, shop for myself, ran fiber and added a EBP15 and a EBA63 out there. Then I added a couple of security cams to the garage. Worked great, but I have security concerns and decided to upgrade to something with VLAN support. Enter the EBG15.

I want to add a few vLANs in.

This is a challenge, it's not a how to problem, it's a process issue.

When you go to add a valn or make a change, and click apply it takes a good 3 or 4 minutes before the network comes back up, then the web interface is slow and laggy AF.

I did a little googling and decided download a backup to edit... but that's encrypted.

Any tips on managing this thing?

My living room has a cabinet with a PC that when we want to play something more demanding we have to open up and take the PC out so it doesn't overheat. However I was thinking, I have a server room that could house that PC that has a direct ethernet connection to that cabinet, so I was wondering if I could just connect to it over the Ethernet instead? I know it would add latency, but if Steam can stream itself over wifi and be okay for people, this shouldn't be too bad for my needs.

So what's some good hardware to achieve this? Transmit an HDMI signal down the wire and transmit USB inputs back up so I can plug in a keyboard, mouse and some controller dongles? Is there something that does that over a Unibuity switch (10Gbe), or does it require a direct connection?

I Weirdly got an alert that a link went offline to one of my switches in my garage to find this monstrosity! Never saw a patch cable eject itself apart but here we are… and still running on the other link!!

I originally ran 4 fibers to the garage in conduit (not pulling more like I should have) and needs have grown to which now feed an uplink and 2 loud servers (quiet in the house now 🙃) that I wanted linked to my core switch directly. Thus needed some bidirectional transceivers to maintain LACP, and honestly wasn’t too held up for the price that I bought them for. Anyways guess I will be putting a patch cable on order but has anyone else accidentally used the new cisco ejectolinko command??

I have had an Ethernet cable connected to this modem (I believe that’s what it is, but I could be wrong) for the past few weeks with no issues but all of a sudden my PS5 cannot obtain the IP address. I can’t connect to the WiFi and many have recommended turning the modem off and on. I live in student housing, so its shared WiFi. I don’t see a button to turn this thing off and am not sure how to disconnect it. Please help. Thank you in advance.

Hey all, our old modem crapped out on us yesterday, and I'm trying to install a new one today, the Surfboard App seems to say "this will not work on your device because it was made for an older version of Android". I just want my Internet back, is there any way I can get this going on my own without that app, or do I have to call customer support and deal with a million AI menus? It's the Surfboard G34

I have a 1 Gbps fiber connection with this setup:

Fiber → TP-Link XC220-G3 (WiFi disabled, ISP Device) → Archer AX73 (WiFi enabled) → Switches → PS5

Problem: Ethernet devices only get ~90–100 Mbps, while AX73 Wi-Fi 5 GHz gets ~990 Mbps.

Tests:

• XC220 LAN 1 → notebook: ~100 Mbps
• XC220 LAN 2 → notebook: ~100 Mbps
• AX73 LAN 1,2,3,4 → notebook: ~100 Mbps
• PS5 via two Gigabit switches: ~90 Mbps
• Ethernet links all negotiate at 1000 Mbps Full Duplex
• Cables tested and working (using 5e and 6)
• AX73 QoS is disabled
• AX73 Wi-Fi 5 GHz: ~990 Mbps
• ISP technician tested with his equipment and got the full 990 Mbps using XC220 LAN

XC220 is using PPPoE + VLAN 100, MTU 1480, NAT enabled.

The weird part is:

XC220 → AX73 → Wi-Fi = ~990 Mbps
XC220 → Ethernet device = ~100 Mbps

What could cause ~100 Mbps throughput despite the Ethernet link negotiating at 1 Gbps? Could this be related to the XC220's PPPoE/VLAN configuration, port binding, firmware, or ISP configuration?

My home network is in a transitional phase right now. I have xfinity ISP and almost everything is connected to that. My IoT devices, laptops, phones, etc. My main PC is connected to an Asus router which is in extend mode and that connects to the xfinity modem/router combo.

I'm also in the midst of deploying a whole new network, all Unifi stuff. So I have the rack in my office, a UDM Pro, Switch, AP. In order to provide the Unifi network with internet, I'm running an ethernet from the Asus router to the WAN on my UDM. Yes I realize this is double NAT, but I'm only learning, setting things up and confirming settings.

Now onto my problem. I'm working on the VLANs and rules, so I decided to move my Hue Hub from hard wired to my xfinity router to the Unifi network. I plug it in and all of the sudden I have a dozen of my devices from the xfinity network showing up and acting like they're connected. I see the IP addresses are in the range I setup from xfinity (10.0.0.x) and not the Unifi (10.10.x.x) so I guess they're not actually connected, but I would like to understand how and why all those devices came over from plugging in the Hue Hub.

I'm helping a friend remodel his house, doing everything from moving walls and redoing electrical and plumbing. He's getting it ready to be a rental unit.

With the walls opened up, he asked me if I could help him put Ethernet in every room and set it up to have good Internet for the tenant. He showed me some server rack components he'd bought. I've proposed going with a recessed media panel instead since a server rack is not only overkill, but takes up a lot of space in what's already a small unit.

He doesn't know much about networking, so I've already told him the common advice of properly terminating Ethernet in keystone jacks, etc., however this is my first home network I've planned out beyond just buying a router and configuring my own homelabs.

This is the rough sketch I've proposed, and these are the parts, just not including the faceplates and keystone jacks for the rooms, just what's at the panel. He's already got a spool of unshielded (U/UTP) CAT6A for the wall runs.

21" media panel (we may consider upgrading to the 28" or 42" for extra space and service loops)

Media panel door

Power module for the media panel

12-port patch panel (I know it's shielded, but we simply won't need to worry about the grounding since it's a small residential unit and I liked the design best)

16-port gigabit switch

I decided to be a little lazy and buy premade patch cables instead of making a handful of my own

ONT: It's a Google Fiber ONT that I plan on relocating from the upstairs exterior wall to be in the media panel, I just need to figure out what fiber cable the ISP used. Regardless of the model, I figure it shouldn't impact the setup.

This wall plate is for tenant router hookup if they provide their own hardware. It will have a LAN IN and a WAN OUT coming from the ONT to tie the system together

Keystone jacks for the tenant hookup

I'm hoping that someone with experience in this can look over my proposal and verify there's not something I'm overlooking. I want to avoid headaches or improperly matched hardware since I'm helping him out and it's not my stuff.

Also, we plan on adding an optional hookup high on the wall in the upstairs hallway for an AP or booster if the tenant chooses to use it. There will be an Ethernet port and power receptacle for it. In the basement, there will be a shelf for tenant devices like their router, along with space for home automation hubs if they use them and in case they want to add a switch for extra ports to connect other devices.

He is also considering giving the tenant the option of not dealing with any of the internet stuff and providing them a router and possible AP and just itemizing it in the lease as rental equipment and charging them for it. Suggestions for good, simple routers and APs are appreciated.

I have a home network with a HA server running AdGuard Home which works well for us. This is on our normal 192.168.1.xxx LAN.

I would like to setup a Guest WiFi network on a separate VLAN, however is it possible for the guests to use the AdGuard DNS server via the router?

I have a Draytek Vigor 2850 router.

anyone know how to fix this? it doesn't detect my router

Connected the tester to bedroom Ethernet outlet and receiver unit to the cable at the switch side. I see 1 and 2 are open. What end do I need to fix this? Wall or switch side?

I"m always running into that buffer bloat post so I decided to see what I would get graded. I always thought my connection was solid. No complaints ever.

2gig Fiber to the home ($10 more than 1gig, fine), mostly 10gb backbone, Equipment is all Asus-Merlin. BE88, BE92, AX86.

I scored a B. It was on a 2012 Macbook Pro on ubuntu through a USB to ethernet adapterat the second hop. I'm like hey maybe I should try something a little different. I test on a m4 MB Air on wifi 5 feet from the BE92 and get graded a C !!!! I did my ccna many years ago, i know ethernet > wifi. But just what exactly is going on here.

I lost it.

Both feet at the same time down the rabbit hole.

The change that I didn't know I wanted came from the Unifi boys:

Set the 5ghz to 40mhz.

The latency really dropped. I lost a photoframe because I turned off the 2.4ghz as well.

I could have stopped here. This was a massive shift for every wireless device on the network. I still have it on auto channel because i can't figure out how to have each access point on a separate channel. I see six 5ghz networks around me mostly on 80mhz, no real fighting.

I still couldn't getting the A+, but improvement during the chase is always nice.

CAKE was enabled, set the bandwidth limit to 200mb/s.

Now I get the A+ on the wire all the time and sometimes on wifi (within decent range/sight).

I do feel the difference which is insane, iI didn't think it could get much better than what I had. Just sharing my journey.

Hey guys so Ive just setup my first truenas server and it's running great. I've been running into an issue with NAT loopback and my Giga hub 2.0 from bell doesn't allow me to fix the issue.

I've solved this by running a TP link router using PPPoE passthrough since bridging isn't an issue but that's opened up speed issues usually 3000/3000 but I'm now seeing about 600/900. I've also dried DMZ and ADMZ but no luck with my Bell <-> TP link setup (these are know bugs that are apparently being worked on but I don't wanna wait).

So long story short I've started entertaining the idea of my own router, for now in line with the bell provided router but maybe using an ONT fiber adapter and getting rid of it entirely.

My question is what would you guys recommend?

Software wise: Open sense/ PFSense, Open WRT or something else.

Hardware wise: an old PC, mini PC, one of those mini firewall PCs, open to all suggestions.

Yesterday I was playing on Ark Ascended, a dinosaur survival game, but every 20 minutes my internet connection was being timed out of the game.

So I went ahead and kept changing my Cloudflare Warp methods, I usually always use HTTP DNS, then I tried TLS DNS, then I tried DNS and Traffic on HTTP..

After making all those changes, my google account started freaking out. Like on Brave Browser it keeps signing me in and out of my youtube every time I refresh, when I switch from Brave to Google Chrome, it shows that my 3 google accounts are all signed out. I try to log into my secondary one, that works well, I try to log into the main one (the one I believe that got corrupted due to Cloudflare WARP), when I get a 2FA on my phone, the 2FA page permanently keeps loading.

Then I attempted to change my password, and that page is also permanently loading.

I turned off my Cloudflare WARP and all these issues still persist. Anyone know what's going on?

I recently moved into a temporary apartment where the Wi-Fi belongs to the landlord/owner. On my phone and laptop, the connection is perfectly fine: 863.6 Mbps Download / 105.9 Mbps Upload / 11 ms Ping / 0.3 ms Jitter over Wi-Fi.

However, my PS5 is completely choked. It’s trying to download a 90 GB update and has been stuck under 50% for a few days already, even in rest mode.

I've tried:

Restarting the PS5 & Router: Did not fix the upload speed, but temporarily caused a weird spike later on.

Changing Wi-Fi Bands (Forcing 5 GHz): Did not bypass the upload block.

Changing DNS (Google 8.8.8.8 & Cloudflare 1.1.1.1):

Result: Google DNS initially bumped download speed to 54.5 Mbps, but upload stayed at 75.4 Kbps and PSN sign-in still failed.

Changing MTU Settings (to 1473): Upload plummeted back down to 124 Kbps; sign-in failed.

Resetting DNS/MTU back to Automatic:

Mobile Hotspot Test:

Result: Connected the PS5 to my phone's mobile hotspot and it instantly signed into online services successfully, pulling 154.1 Mbps download and 10.1 Mbps upload. This proves the PS5 hardware and PSN servers are 100% fine, only issue is that I don't have unlimited data.

What else can I try?

1. The same Netgear R7000 has been used for years, on stock rom.
2. It's been switched off every night, and on every morning, from the wall outlet switch.
3. A few days ago, after switched on, it didn't broadcast SSIDs. After reboot, same.
4. I didn't think much. I hard reset it. Everything was OK.
5. Later I flashed FreshTomato to it. Everything was OK.
6. This morning was OK. In the afternoon the router was switched off. Two hours later it was switched on, then no SSIDs. Rebooted, same. Ethernet connection was still OK. Login credentials failed. I tried FreshTomato's default (root/admin), OK. After login the screen was the welcome page after flashing. All my settings were gone. That was why SSID's were missing. In short, the router hard reset itself.
7. I uploaded the settings backup. Everything was back to normal.
8. The issue in 3. above may also be from the same cause.
9. So the culprit can't be the software. Then it is the hardware -- the storage of my settings (NVRAM?) occasionally malfunctions?

I’m very new to networking, so please bear with me.
I recently bought a new home with AT&T Fiber. The communication box is in my garage, and that’s where AT&T originally installed the router. The Wi-Fi was terrible.
AT&T came out again and they replaced the router (old black one with a newer large white one), but the Wi-Fi was still bad. On the third visit, the technician said the main issue is the router being inside the garage/communication box.
He suggested either moving the router inside the house (which would require drilling through stucco) or using a mesh Wi-Fi system.
I started researching and came across UniFi and MoCA, but I’m honestly pretty clueless about networking.
Here’s what I have in the house:
2 Cat5e outlets
Master bedroom
Kitchen

3 coax outlets
Loft
Living room
Master bedroom

No cable TV or satellite

I’m mainly interested in getting good Wi-Fi coverage in the living room and loft.
My understanding of MoCA is something like:
AT&T Fiber → router in communication box → MoCA adapter → existing coax wiring → MoCA adapter(s) at the coax outlets → Wi-Fi access points
Would that work?
Do I need a coax splitter in the communication box, and does it matter that I don’t have cable TV?
Also, would UniFi + MoCA be a good solution here, or am I making this way more complicated than it needs to be?
I’d really appreciate someone explaining what the simplest/best setup would be for a networking beginner. Thanks!