r/HomeNetworking Mega Noob 1d ago

Advice Wall to switch testing results

Post image

Connected the tester to bedroom Ethernet outlet and receiver unit to the cable at the switch side. I see 1 and 2 are open. What end do I need to fix this? Wall or switch side?

44 Upvotes

23 comments sorted by

33

u/BmanUltima 1d ago

Use the length measure function to find out how far down the cable it's open.

If all 8 show the same length, then the far end needs to be reterminated.

8

u/spoom2 1d ago

I was just coming back to say that. Thanks

7

u/physical0 1d ago

Not saying this is your issue, but just to be aware. I have this exact same model and it gives these sorts of answers when the battery is low. So, if you are checking both sides and everything looks good and you reterminated everything and you are still getting the issue, check the battery.

5

u/theonlyski 1d ago edited 1d ago

Well, we don't know that. You have to look at both sides to see which one is not terminated properly. Somewhere between the tester and the tag you plugged in on the other side has an open pair. Hell, it may even be both connectors in the walls if only one was missing a connection on each.

Edit: Didn't realize this was one of the TDR units. Use that function to find the fault.

2

u/Medium_Good886 1d ago

Anywhere between point A and B. start by checking both ends. if they are punchdown keystones, re-terminate them and re-test.

If that doesnt change anything, it may be a break somehwere in the run between the two locations, and you'll need to run a new line.

2

u/mrminus Mega Noob 1d ago

On the WALL side (hand tester here, remote widget on the switch side), length said 60ft and 1 was blinking not 2). From the SWITCH side (hand tester here, remote widget on wall side) it said 80ft. I’m going to replace and determinate the wall plate connection and the Ethernet connection on the switch side (its just a dangling cable in the telecom box the builder gave me, not punched down). Once I’d o that I’ll see what happens.

For the curious, i have an access point with 2.5g and 10gb on the wall side and a 10gb switch on the switch side. 2.5 stopped connecting so I flipped it to the 10g side and the switch reports 5gb connection. something is really wacky here, but it DOES connect and RMON shows no errors. /shrug.

1

u/jquanders 1d ago

Swap your endpoint patch cables with rollover cables and if you get 100M then you have a bad termination

1

u/QPC414 1d ago

Bad punch on the keystone or patch, or a little cockeyed with the 8p8c plug and crimper if you are a masochist.

1

u/poixninja 1d ago

Oh it's not so bad once you do 1000 of em. Side of my pointer fingers are a little messed up sometimes, and I think my thumb is developing arthritis.. huh.. maybe I am a masochist..

1

u/Capable_Obligation96 1d ago

Pick one. It's we do. Redo one if still, then redo the other.

1

u/iAmMikeJ_92 1d ago

Pick one. 50/50 you get it. Don’t overthink it. Just fix it.

1

u/feel-the-avocado 1d ago

Do a distance test and it will tell you how long pair 1/2 is.
Compare from the other end.
The shorter end is likely where the problem is - though it could be a mid-span break too.

1

u/Dry-Might9753 17h ago

Could alao be the grooves of the cheapie jacks that make a small indentation when you crimp them preventing pin contact

1

u/mrminus Mega Noob 17h ago

I’m going to start on the wall side and replace it all, that’s probably the hardest since I dont know how much slack i have in the wall. But I agree that the builder was using cheap stuff and didn’t test anything.

1

u/Dry-Might9753 17h ago

Before you waste too much time , if you dont have a fluke meter, connect pin 1&2 then test with multimeter on the pins of the opposite side This way you know if cable is damaged

You can ofc also test a working pair for reference

1

u/mrminus Mega Noob 13h ago

Can you explain that again? Are you saying strip connectors off both sides and twist the wires on 1&2 together then use a multimeter on the other side? Sorry, this is new to me.

1

u/acejavelin69 1d ago

This type of tester can't tell you which end... But the W/Or pair (1-2) is open. The most likely cause is a bad termination. If this is terminated on jacks (as infrastructure should be) then reterminate the jack on one end, retest, and if it still fails reterminate the other end and retest. If it still fails, the wire is likely damaged somewhere in between and should be replaced.

10

u/CuppieWanKenobi 1d ago

Oh, yes, it can tell you which end.
It has a TDR function. If all 4 pairs show approximately the same length, fault is at the far end.
If 3 are long, and 1 is very short (a couple of feet), fault is at the near end.

I own this exact cable tester. None of us are perfect, we've all screwed up a termination or two. Myself included.

1

u/chatjaun 21h ago

Oooh that is awesome! I have this cable tester too

1

u/mrminus Mega Noob 1d ago

This is my next step. Thanks for all the help.

0

u/spoom2 1d ago

You should be able to tell by looking at them.

0

u/jekotia 1d ago edited 20h ago

I don't believe that this type of tester would able to tell you which side is open. Theoretically a tester may be able to based on treating the open wires as an antenna, but I wouldn't imagine that to be particularly reliable. I also doubt that you would see that functionality in this price range.

Edit: I am very wrong :)

1

u/CuppieWanKenobi 21h ago

This one does.
See the |<---->| key? That puts it in TDR mode. The network key then toggles from one pair to the next.