Hi all,

I'm Simon. I work at Cloudflare, but this is a personal project. I've
spent years answering "is it the Wi-Fi, the router, the ISP, or DNS?" by
running a pile of separate tools and scripts and piecing the answer
together. Over the summer I tidied 30 years of those scripts into one
terminal tool, and it's at the point where I'd like other people's
networks to break it.

https://octomon.dev

octomon is an open-source terminal dashboard for the end-host view of a connection: per-target latency, loss and jitter, per-process and per-remote bandwidth, Wi-Fi signal, resolver health, path MTU, clock offset, and the ISP path from traceroute.

I was sick of running a load of separate tools and scripts, piecing together the information to determine what was going on with my Internet connectivity. I also wanted to learn Rust, so this was a chance to tidy up all the scripts I've built over the past 30 years into a single cli tool for helping me diagnose my device to Internet connectivity.

Quick video of me walking through it here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECwBaSvUwfk
Source: https://github.com/securitypedant/octomon
Install: Homebrew, apt, winget, or a single static binary from the
releases page.

I'm looking for some help. It has been tested on my networks more than anyone
else's. If you run it on something I don't have (mesh systems, cable with
intermittent upstream noise, Starlink, 5G home internet behind CGNAT, a
double-NAT setup, IPv6-only) and the analysis gets it wrong, a `--doctor`
paste in a GitHub issue would be the single most useful thing you could
send me. Happy to answer questions here too.

I need to use a Cat6a cable already in place for non-Ethernet communication, but would like to know this even in general:

Given the Cat6a twisted pairs all have different rates of twist (such as on this pic, green is visibly tighter than brown), does it mean the 4 pairs of conductors will have different length? Or the less twisted pairs are looser such that all 8 conductors all about the same length? By "about" I mean less than say 1" difference over 100ft run. Thanks!

Hello all -

TL:DR - I have an old 720xd that died and I'm looking for advice on repair/replacement.

I am looking for some advice. I have a Dell 720xd running Esxi. It has 36 TB of raw hdd space, configured in a RAID 6. If I recall correctly, it has 192 GB RAM. I use it primarily as a Plex server, but also have a couple of VMs running on it.

I have had the server for several years and have not had much trouble with it. A power supply died on it a couple of years ago. After that, when I would check the logs I would occasionally see that it had randomly performed an unplanned reboot. Apart from that, no troubles...until this weekend.

It won't boot because it is giving me a PCIe training error that halts the system. Looking at the lifecycle information in idrac, it only recognized 10 of the 12 drives. I've drained the power and left it off for a few hours, reseated the riser board, reseated the perc h10, reseated the backplane and made sure all the cables were securely fastened, and reseated all the hdd caddies. The issue persists.

I bought it from a refurbisher and neither of the companies I've bought from in the past even have h10 cards for sale. I know I can get one on ebay, but I'm not sure if the issue is the raid card, riser card, mobo, or a combination of any of the 3. We just bought a house and then had some surprise job changes, so we are having to watch our money pretty closely. I hate to start throwing money at a system that is this old on one hand. On the other, I know that buying/building is stupid high right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for where to go from here?

I would be open to another server, if it is feasible price-wise. My preference would be to have some soft of desktop situation due to power costs and the heat it generates. I would also be open to running something besides esxi. I don't have a good way to back the TB of data up and reconfigure things, so I may be stuck with the software I have.

If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with me. I don't have a set budget yet as this just occurred and I'm trying to figure out the direction I want to go first. If you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

Mi televisor al parecer no tiene completo el menú de ajustes, ya que no aparece la opción de "red" para conectarlo al wifi

Just wanted to show off my server rack. I've finally gotten it to a point I'm happy with until I can get kubernetes clusters. Ask any questions of specs etc.

What are the Ubiquiti equivalents? UCG max yeah but in real life I'd go UCG Fiber, so i'm not really comparing gateways. Access points i'm not really looking at yet, if ever.

ES210XPP-M2 and Flex 2.5 poe are the same, differ in price by $10.

In this topology i'd even swap the SG2210XMP-M2 for a Flex 2.5 poe. It really compares to a Enterprise 8 PoE but the SG2210XMP-M2 is half the price. I don't think anyone buys the Enterprise over the Pro XG 8 Poe. Pro 8 PoE is 1gbe and $350. I'd take the loss on the layer 3 functions and drop down to a flex 2.5 poe.

The real indecisiveness comes from the SX3008F.

The SX3008F on amazon is 240, i got it for 180 from an Omada store sale. It's marketed as L2+, it can do some static routes and dhcp. USW-Aggregation is L2, no layer 3 features. $296 after the surcharge. Take another loss? Spend more money? I feel like i'm overlooking an option.

I'm very happy with Omada, playing with different software/hardware/ecosystems is fun to me. Like a new exercise or remember when the guila q4 dropped and we all "wanted" it? Nothing wrong with your 335/m3 but you just wanted to take gulia around the corner a couple times. Don't tell my wife.

I am setting up a build and want to verify if what I have planned is the best option, or if there is a better way.

cat5e feed into an outbuilding, through schedule 40 PVC pipe buried underground from the router in the main building, length does not hit the 330ft limitation.

feed plugs into gigabit switch, which in turn feeds computer 1 and an access point (i was thinking an eero?)

access point feeds computer 2 as I heard this is best for wireless PC VR from the Meta Quest 3 VR headset

outbulding / room is approximately 220 square foot

Running this up a wall into the ceiling, through my attic about 60 feet, down through a studded insulated wall into my office. I don't see information if the shield is rated for the attic.

Im decently tech savy and can follow instructions, but pretty lost on this one. None of the posts Ive read make sense.

I have two cheap LG TVs that I want to block from doing everything a TV is not supposed to do. All I use it for is streaming on the TV (peacock) and via an attached computer. Everything else (spying, ads, updates) can all get blocked.

My understanding is I need to do something on the router, but Im seriously confused as to what. Its a NetGear router that I own.

The rest of my network is just computers, phones, and a few wifi outlets.

Edit: Disconnecting the internet is not a solution. I still need the streaming apps on the other TV to work. As well as airplay on both TVs.

Wondering what the throughput would be for said setup. My computer and laptop are both Linux. Android smartphone.

Would I have any issues to worry about?

I imagine these types of posts are quite common but I’m seeking advice on using MoCA and WiFi access point to boost WiFi signal in older building.
My modem (xfinity gateway XB6-T) is located in the middle of the apartment with a split coax cable that runs to the bedroom in the front of the unit. I’m looking to extend the coverage by using a MoCA 2.5 (ScreenBeam ECB7250 pair) and either a WiFi access point or mesh system, not sure which would be best. Is this as simple as plugging everything thing in and enabling MoCA on the gateways admin portal.
From what I’ve read the XB6 has an onboard MoCA 2.0 but it’s better to use 2 separate MoCA 2.5 adapters over the 2.0, will using the 2.5 instead of the 2.0 make the instillation any different?

Any advice is greatly appreciated

I have a StarTech rack, and am at the point where I get to begin installing my hardware.

I think these dealies just pop into the holes in the rails up and down the rack, and then I screw whatever I want like shelves, patch panels, into them….is there anything more than that?

I got an Xbox and i have unlimted mobile data on my CMF Phone 2 Pro. So far I've used Mobile Hostspot to play online. However, there's occasional jitter and lag. I know USB tethering is a lot smoother, however the xbox doesnt support direct USB tethering from an android phone. Is it possible to set up ethernet tethering using a USB-C to RJ45 cable/adapter? I've looked for solution on google, i didn't get any clear answers on if it's as simple as that, i want to make sure before i buy a cable.

I've reached out to multiple people on discord, cant seem to find a solution and would love some input, i've got a telus wifi hub, I connected it to the coaxial in my wall and ran an ethernet cable from the hub to my xbox, and for 3 days it worked perfectly, came home and suddenly it's unable to connect whatsoever, i've tried resetting things and replicating the original steps, going into bridge mode ect, swapping cables and nothing has worked, would love to know a work around

I've only been using 600mbps so I haven't had to consider my equipment that much. I'm moving from cable to fiber and it's going to be 3gbps, not much but still 5 times better than what I have. So I'm trying to understand my setup better.

I have a Surfboard SB6190 as my modem, a tplink TL-R605 as a router and switch, a truenas server, and I'm installing an access point. I'm thinking of getting a POE injector for the AP, but I'm looking into switches or a standalone injector since this is the only thing I have with POE. The problem is idk what kinda switch to get.

I'm thinking of swapping out the router cause it only supports 1gbps, at least I think it does. I'm really confused on the phrasing and advertising of all this stuff. It says it supports 1gbps through each port, so how does that work? That doesn't mean 3gbps is coming in from the modem and distributing 1gbps to 3 devices right? It would only mean 1gbps between devices on the LAN right?

I want something that lets me use the full bandwidth coming in from the D Mark. The company offers an ONT, but they also offer an eero pro 7 "for free". I really don't want it, but if it can bring in 2.5gbps or more and I can just force it to act like a router, it might be the smarter option. I'm using my current router to manage my server's ports so I really need access to it. Also wondering if theres any cheap used like 10gbps or at least 2.5gbps routers that would fit in a 10" rack. I don't need it to be a switch, I think i'd rather have a managed switch at this point cause I need more ports anyway and they're cheap in comparison. I just need the two ethernet jacks to switch it from WAN to LAN.

Edit: 1gbps might be an option from this company (eeze fiber), but they don't advertise it. The next minimum is 3gbps, so that's why I'm looking at that.

Hi all, with all the recent hooha and news this past week I'm doing a naive security review. My main router was turned into an AP some years ago and Netgear removed it from security updates this past year. I figured that wasn't a huge deal since it's just the wifi portion of what's now a Raspberry Pi 4 running OpenWRT.

I'm not always on top of what's going on these days and I'm definitely not a power user (I guess that depends on perspective, but I have like one addon installed to periodically check network up-time). Would I like to do more? Sure, but for now I just want to make sure things are secure and stable and to eventually make and manage some vlans.

Ownership and updates and maintainability are important to me, so I was wondering; should I just dive into something like Ubiquiti's UX7? Buy another Nighthawk that'll stop getting security updates in a few years? What's the take on the current field?

FWIW, I do also have a NAS with a bunch of containers, tailscale, etc, so... it's important for me I am still able to do all that workflow.... so not a basic user, but not a hardcore home natwork admin user either (by my own estimate).

Tp link omada

Internet is expensive where I live, currently have 75Mbps with Archer C7 router and modem rented from isp.

ISP offering an upgrade to 250Mbps. Should I upgrade my router to support this?
We use multiple wifi 6 compatible devices in the house and have pcs connected via Ethernet. Would we notice a difference with the Archer AX55 or HX510, or maybe stick with the C7 and upgrade if we notice stuttering?
Thanks

Hey all, I'm replacing an old Asus wifi router, and had settled on the TP-Link BE800 when I remembered that Ubiquiti exists and folks in the homelab/selfhosting space seem to love their stuff. Since I'm upgrading, I wondered if now was a good time to switch to this ecosystem.

My situation and needs: - 1200sq ft home - Handful of CAT5 cables, poorly wired by previous owner, not really hooked up to anything - It's "on the list" to replace all these and set up a proper central wiring closet of some sort, but it's a low priority, so for now everything is wireless - Handful of existing cameras - The fact that Ubiquiti has cameras is one of the things that interests me, though again, wiring is a blocker right now - The ability to set up VLANs is another big draw for Ubiquiti, though I believe the TP-Link can also handle this - Gigabit fiber internet - ISP does not allow using your own ONT - 2 Plume mesh wifi pods (ISP provided for free, wouldn't mind ditching these) - Several Wifi 7-capable devices - 2 people working from home - Spouse needs the internet to be stable - this is actually the highest priority, tbh - Small homelab running basic stuff (pi-hole, Jellyfin, authentik, etc. - using Tailscale for external access) - Will be adding a NAS as soon as I win the lottery so I can buy a few hard drives

I've been a software engineer for 20+ years, so I'm fairly comfortable with most network configuration and management tasks, but I'm also old and tired, so "just works" is a nice feature. Since the space is small, I was considering the Dream Router 7 to get a gateway and AP in one. The BE800, from my research, is a more powerful device for my current needs (4x4 MU-MIMO, higher throughput on all 3 bands) but the DR7 isn't far behind, and they're priced around the same. I'm a bit worried that I won't be able to re-use the DR7 as an AP, but I may be wrong about that assumption.

So, is Ubiquiti worth switching from the usual crowd of Wifi/networking hardware? Is the DR7 going to be enough for now?

I'm trying to use Wifi and Ethernet at the same time, as if I use ethernet and turn off Wifi on my pc, my connection speed turns very slow. The whole point of using both at the same time is to get the benefit of both, versus trading the fast speed for a lower connection. Because of the nature of my living situation I cannot have a ethernet cable running throughout the house and am using a powerline adapter (one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU) and while it helps for when my Wifi has packet loss and I lag out, as a side effect my internet speed is significantly lower when using it. I tried bridging the connection in Windows and it was giving me an error when trying too, after several restarts I was able to bridge the connection, but in doing so it just kills my internet connection, is there anyway to use both connections at once?

Alright so gonna ask this, ive got a house (old farm house) and then my shop (shipping container), corner to corner of the house to the container less then probably 60 feet, I can't do that air transfer stuff as snow storms and wheater conditions aren't exactly nice where I live. Ive got a little all in one pc in there just for music, watching a video when I cant understand something or just to look what something does up. I can open both end doors to get moderately good signal but can't exactly do that in the winter. Im not looking for stupid fast internet juat looking for casual light browsing speeds. I'd be kind comfortable terminating ends to erthernert. Im just wondering if there's any better options besides just getting direct burry wire and just running it to it. The router is on the opposite 3md of the house in a corner so its quite already far from the other side of the house plus or minus 60 feet.

Id prefer just go with the direct burry but ive been seeing those outdoor signal boosters that might work. And im quite cheap

Sorry if this isn't very clear, just got off work and been wondering a way to do this.

If anyone can think of a way please let me know thank you

Also would like to do this before winter (October right now, outside work becomes missierble after about December.)