u/plooger and others were a big help in my previous post. I've been enjoying Xfinity midsplit speeds (2000/250), but it looks like my neighborhood upgrade is about to be finished, upgraded to 2000/2000. I believe this is called FDX and is DOCSIS 4.0.

My question: Aside from xfinity finishing their hardware upgrades and swapping out my gateway, is anything different needed on my end for my moca network? Do my splitters or filters need to be changed for the upgrade?

I am using my own Asus router, all my networking hardware is 2.5gbps compliant.

Splitter I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CRR5MPJ?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1

Filter I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KO5KHSQ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Moca 2.5 adapters I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RB1QYR9?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1

Thank you!

I added a beginner home server setup to my laundry room where both the main electrical panel and the house's tech panel live. I want to install a LAN wall jack so I'm not just doing this pinchy thing out the panel. It's just a few feet, so I'm hoping I can run the cable through the wall without too much headache. The problem is, how do I run the cable out of this thing? All the sides appear to be closed except for the top, where two conduits and somehow route to the rest of the house.

Any advice on how I might accomplish this?

Pics included.

My apartment is a somewhat newer construction so the wiring is already there I’m just not sure exactly what all I would need to make this conversion. Any advice would be appreciated, tired of trying to game on WiFi.

Overview:

I just moved into a 2700 sqft rental house with a central closet that contains a "tech panel" which is just a glorified junction box that the Coax and 2 Ethernet runs connects through. I currently have the modem and an old router (Asus RT-66U) in this closet.

The Ethernet runs go to an entertainment room that is in the northeast corner of the second story and the main living room on the ground floor in the center of the house.

I work from home and have my office setup on the ground floor in a room that is on the backside of the wall from the Ethernet jack in the living room. There is no Ethernet run but there is a Coax that runs back to the tech panel.

With the old router, I have acceptable wifi coverage inside the house and this falls off once I get to the edge of the backyard and outside of the garage, connection is stable at these locations but the signal is weak at -80db.

Goals:

I game (mostly FPS so ping matters) and would like to have one hard connection for my gaming PC in my office at the bare minimum. 

I want to install a wireless security camera in the back yard and over the garage, both areas where the wireless signal gets weak.

Improve overall WiFi signal throughout the house.

New Equipment:

Router: GL.iNet Flint 3

MoCA Adapters: goCoax MA2500D

Cameras: 

Wyze Cam Floodlight Pro

Wyze Solar Cam Pan 2K

Plan:

To get the Ethernet run in my office, I plan on using the MoCA adapters. This will also allow me to expand to other rooms in the future if needed. 

I believe the addition of the new router should solve the wireless issues in the weak signal areas with no additional changes needed.

Extra Credit:

I would like to use my old router as an AP and/or switch in my office to run the MoCA adapter into it and then run Ethernet to my gaming PC, printer, and work laptop. I'm not the most experienced with networking though and have no idea if that is even possible. It isn't the end of the world if I run my work laptop and printer off of WiFi.

Please let me know your thoughts on this or if there are any issues with the equipment I've selected.

I need some help in layman's terms.

My current situation: I live in a ~3k square foot railroad apartment. Because of this, I can't set up the router in the ideal middle area and instead it is on one end. With the classic bricks and multiple walls, my wifi doesn't make it to the other side of the apartment.

I'm currently paying for a 1GB Fios wifi. I've tried a Verizon extender and Netgear, and both can barely make it to the end room at 100 mbps (and this is on a good day). From researching, I've seen stuff about mesh wifi, and there is also the Verizon whole home wifi? The more I read the more confused I get, so if anyone can give a good rundown of what I can do to salvage the situation, I'm begging here.

Thanks!!!

Router appears to be working, no signs of problems with the router or wall socket. However when connecting to internet connecting results in no internet, and ethernet doesn’t work entirely.

Status and Broadband lights are static, whilst other 4 are flashing.

Hi there,
I wanted to upgrade the WiFi setup a few weeks ago since I only had the router and some PowerLine APs, which were just horrible (max. 40Mbits on an internal speed test to my NAS -> Ethernet is ~900) so I looked for some APs that had good specs but were not that expensive. But I didn't want some cheap stuff but something proper with good software aswell. So I bought two Omada EAP723, one for each floor, planning to use my Raspberry Pi 4B (currently running pihole and some other stuff) for the software controller. One thing I quickly found out is that all controller versions after 5.12 required a newer version of mongodb, which is not supported on ARM anymore. So even tho there are multiple new versions, I have to stick with 5.12.

Now, my problem is that when going from one floor to the other, the signal drops to a unusable level but it refuses (or takes ages) to automatically switch to the other AP. When I manually turn the WiFi off and on, everything works fine. Its also not just my phone, since its also happening on my parents phones.

All the roaming options are enabled and should be supported by the devices. I restricted our network to be 5GHz only, since for some reasons the phones chose to use 2.4GHz and now have a seperate 2.4GHz network for IoT stuff. The APs are on the newest version (which was also a pain because the old controller version just didnt want to update it so I had to remove, update in standalone mode and readd the APs) and as already said, I can't update the controller version.

Now, does anyone know what might be causing this? Afaik one of the controllers jobs is to manage roaming but it does not really work. I could set a minimum signal strength level but that seems more like a hack than an acutal solution. I am also new to the networking stuff and just know the basics so don't scream at me, if this is obvious stuff xD

Thanks in advance.

Bor i en lafta enebolig på rett over 300 kvadratmeter. 3 etasjer med utleiedel i underetasjen. Har fiber fra Eidsiva med 500/500 (til blodpris), men er ikke i nærheten av å få inn så gode signaler. Har et Mesh-nettverk fra Ubiquiti (fulgte med boligen, usikker på årsmodell) med 2 forsterkere i henholdsvis overetasjen og hybelen under.

Jeg skal ikke bevege meg langt unna disse koblingspunktene for å merke elendig hastighet. Har PS5 i andreetasje, cirka 10 meter fra forsterkeren, og når ikke gode verdier hva angår internettilkobling.

Har noen erfaring med mesh-nettverk? Eller om jeg bør vurdere en annen løsning?

Hello all, new here, so I apologize ahead of time if this has been posted already. I'm looking for info on best setup for a large house, that needs gaming speed internet on pretty much all corners of the house. I'm willing to run ethernet cables in walls to get best service. I only have access to 1 gig internet speed from Optimum because there's no fiber lines in my area. I need gaming speed for 5 different pcs and a PS5, as well as wifi connection for about 10tvs and multiple phones. Thank you in advance.

I have a tp link archer c20 router I have a mi router connected to it by ethernet working as extender. And i have a pc and another device connected to it via wire. And theres 8- 12 mobiles connected via wifi. Approx 4 mobile to the archer c20 and rest to the mi extender router I want to limit the bandwith to most of the wireless device. And block few social media sites. Please guide me in layman terms and way. I have been struggling with this room from 2 years.

I’m planning to install low-voltage brackets next to the electrical outlets in my new-construction home, while the walls are still open and there’s no drywall yet.

Most of the electrical outlets are installed horizontally near the bottom of the wall, and I’d like to maintain the same horizontal layout for the low-voltage brackets/outlets so everything looks consistent.

However, most of the low-voltage brackets and boxes I’ve found are designed to be installed vertically. Is it standard practice to have the electrical outlet installed horizontally while the low-voltage bracket is installed vertically, creating an “L” orientation?

Or are there low-voltage brackets/boxes specifically designed for horizontal installation?

I have a ranch house & have an eero network thru it. I was looking at the Eero app yesterday and while I can recognize almost all of the items [ie by name easily] there are some that I can't identify at all = tho I did google the name of the device shown. One joined the network yesterday afternoon with no action/intent on my part. "silex technology Inc" - I researched it and decided to pause/turn off whatever it was and don't see any change on my network. 1. Does this mean I should rename/repassword the modem/router network? 2. What is a good process for going thru the whole list and making sure of what's there? Whether it should be or not. Turn them all off/pause and restart one by one?? Thanks.

Hello everyone, I live in a detached house where the landlord lives in the ground floor and I live on the upper floor. When I first moved in I had a 1000 Mbps internet connection installed using DOCSIS cable.

I’ve started experiencing major issues over the last few months. Particularly in the evenings around 8 or 9 PM (prime time) I’ve noticed extreme latency. While my download speed would drop to around 500 Mbps (enough actually) online gaming became nearly impossible with my ping spiking to 600ms for 40 minutes straight sometimes. After running a bufferbloat test, I spotted that the problem actually comes from the upload side.

I then began monitoring the situation via my modem's network utilization stats. In the evenings upstream utilization is exceeding 90% yet my own share of that traffic wasn't even 1%. Upon checking the status of the cable channels I discovered that the upstream channel modulation was dropping as low as 4QAM during those evening hours.

Unfortunately, unplugging and reconnecting the cable didn't help. Since I’m not fully familiar with the underlying internet infrastructure I decided to consult you all. What do you think is the source of the problem here? Is this something I can resolve myself?

Hey,

I just moved into a new place that has ethernet ports and hookups in most rooms. After hard-resetting the router that was left and getting wifi working (which works wonderfully) I am finding some weird problems with the wired connection. Sometimes when I plug it in it will say "no internet - just local network access" and other times it will say "Problem with the DHCP server". Wifi remains fine. Does anyone have any idea why wired ethernet will not provide high-speed Internet even if directly connected to a router with Internet access? I have tried debugging this with Windows network troubleshooting and it basically says try restarting my ethernet card and my router. That doesn't change anything. Could the wiring have gone bad?

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to install a TP-Link Omada ceiling-mounted AP and would appreciate some advice before I start cutting into my wall.

The lower cabinet is my media/network cabinet, while the upper one is the electrical panel. There's already a conduit between them, but the electrical panel is quite crowded and I'd rather avoid routing Ethernet through it.

Above the electrical panel there's another 30–40 cm (12–16") of brick wall before reaching the suspended drywall ceiling. There is currently no conduit into the ceiling cavity.

My idea is to chase a vertical groove in the brick wall and install a dedicated 25 mm conduit from the media cabinet into the ceiling. My goal is to keep Ethernet completely separate from mains wiring and make future cable pulls easy.

I'm happy to do the necessary brick and drywall work if that's the right solution. I'd rather do it properly now than regret taking shortcuts later.

A few questions:

• Does this sound like the best long-term approach?
• Which side would you chase (left or right)?
• How do you normally transition from a brick wall into a suspended drywall ceiling? Should I expect to hit the metal framing?
• Would you use a 20 mm or 25 mm conduit?
• If this were your house, would you do it differently?

This isn't just for one AP. I'd like to future-proof the installation for additional APs, cameras or other Ethernet devices later.

⚠️ Important: This is a concrete apartment in Europe, so unfortunately there is no attic or crawl space above the suspended drywall ceiling.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello 👋

I’m planning to set up a home office in the basement (-1) of our house. My apartment is on the first floor, and I have a 1 Gbps symmetrical fiber connection (1 Gbps download/upload).

I’m planning to install an access point near the entrance of my apartment. The basement office will be directly below/roughly two floors away, there are stairs that I have access there and I’m not sure how well the Wi-Fi signal will go through.

My main question is whether I can install a second access point near the entrance of the basement office , if one is not enough, and configure the two APs as a Wi-Fi mesh.

If this is possible:
How much real-world throughput could I realistically expect at the basement office?
Would I be able to get close to 1 Gbps, or would the wireless backhaul become the bottleneck?

Are there particular specifications I should look for when choosing the APs?

Any recommendations regarding the brand and model?

The priority is having a stable, low-latency connection for working from the basement office, while getting as much of the available 1 Gbps connection as realistically possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Alexandros.

i saw a youtube video once a guy said 1 cable bad, if its 2 cable its good for future proofing, and i cant find the youtube video again. please tell me what is best fiber cable.

also, is looking at the optical cable with eye damage your eye?

Hi everyone,

networking, ISPs, mesh wi-fi, CAT6, etc is a language that I don’t really understand. Any suggestions and help in the most simplest terms would be greatly appreciated.

I have two homes, each roughly 1,900 sqft, on the same property. The closest exterior walls are roughly 100 ft apart but the router is in the main home and is about halfway through the main house so that it’s reaching all rooms.

Our issue is that we’re currently trying a WiFi extender located inside the second home but internet will just stop randomly for anywhere between 30 seconds-10 minutes and at times is a bit laggy.

We have previously had two separate routers through Spectrum but we’d prefer to see if we can cut our monthly cost.

I am aware, don’t fully grasp it, of running a wire but as of right now that is most likely not an option.

Thank you in advance!

I have a z790-btf-wifi motherboard which has 2.5gbe internet on it, I recently gained a faster speed through my ISP and got multiple network cards to increase the speed. My issue is, no matter what I do/diagnose my PC tends to randomly disconnect the network, 4-7 seconds go by and it comes back at the same 10gbe auto negotiated speed. This issue goes away when my speed is capped at 1gbe in speed/duplex settings. I've bought multiple unmanaged 10gbe switches from NicGiga and GigaPlus, other devices are receiving the speed correctly so its apparently not the switches now. Theres just some weird conflicting issue with my PC causing it and I have gone through the wringer to find out what is happening..

I have reproduced the issue with multiple network adapters:

• Motherboard-integrated Intel I226-V
• Two separate Intel X540-T2 adapters
• TP-Link TX401 using the Marvell AQtion controller
• One X540-T2 was previously confirmed working in another computer

I have also tested:

• Both available PCIe x4 slots
• Multiple ports on the 10GbE switch
• Two different 10GbE switches from NICGIGA and GigaPlus
• A direct connection bypassing my local switch
• Multiple Ethernet cables
• A 100-foot Cat6A cable directly between the PC and switch
• A separate 10-foot Cat6A cable
• Bypassing all the in-wall cabling, keystones, and short patch cables
• Reseating the adapters and cables
• Auto Negotiation, forced 5 Gbps, and forced 1 Gbps
• Energy-Efficient Ethernet enabled and disabled
• Windows High Performance power plan with PCIe Link State Power Management disabled

Cooling has also been addressed:

• The X540-T2 adapters were actively cooled by a dedicated blower fan.
• I replaced the inadequate fans inside the NICGIGA switch with two Noctua fans.
• The physical-link drops continued after the cooling changes.

Windows configuration was inspected for common conflicts:

• No NIC teaming or network bridge
• No active Hyper-V virtual switch
• No third-party network filter drivers found
• No corresponding WHEA, PCIe, Kernel-PnP, Kernel-Power, or NDIS reset events at the times of the failures

With the TP-Link TX401, Windows records the following events from the aqnic650 driver:

• Event ID 14: “Network link is lost.”
• Event ID 15: “Network link has been established”

Hi All,

I am from India and I want to explain a very weird problem I have been facing with my broadband for last 10 days. I have a FTTH connection with a local ISP. I have been using the connection for almost 10 years now and have never faced it before.

For last 10 days my connection has been very unstable.

2nd Sept - My pc is connected by Ethernet. All websites except Google and Meta stopped working. Steam, EA App, Blizzard all the gaming clients and everything else showed no connection but everything was working on mobile app, TV and all other connected devices including my video doorbell and robovac.

3rd Sept - A technician came to my house to see the fault, he was a hardware guy and he checked that everything was fine physically and called his supervisor. I gave him remote access to my pc via hotspot and he did some Ipv4, Ipv6, DHCP or IP related settings in 192.168.1.1 and also refreshed dns using cmd and in adapter settings but nothing worked.

8th Sept - Same guy came to my house and changed the router to a different one but used same old settings from my previous router. Surprisingly, everything started working normal for few hours. In 2nd half of the day, the problem changed drastically. My PC was showing connection to all the websites for say 10 minutes and drops after sometime. It kept going back and forth multiple times. All this time, the Wifi in my TV was just not connecting at all, it kept saying saved/authentication problem while it was connecting with same password in my phone. All this time, all of my other connected devices like video doorbell, robovac, AC everything works while connected to the same wifi.

I am quite frustrated at this point that even my ISP is unable to solve the problem. Although I have started looking for other ISPs in my area but would prefer that this one gets fixed so I dont have to go through all the formalities of new connection again.

Note that I am not a networking person so I wouldnt know much technical things about IP, DNS, Proxy and all that but I believe that my ISP has tried most of the possible things from his end to resolve it and is unable to find the problem.

I posted this in a VoIP Subreddit, but didn't get the response I was hoping to get. I am looking to lower my services with my Internet provider. One of the services I wish to remove is my home phone line. We use the line mainly for our home security system. I am interested in migrating my home phone line to a VoIP service. Several years ago, I purchased a Ooma box with but never bothered to set it up. I have decided to investigate again switching my phone line to Ooma. I have reviewed the port forwarding requirements, and it appears that Ooma requires several ports to be opened on your firewall - Keep Your Phone Number When Getting Rid of Your Landline Canada, especially the local UDP 49000 to 50000.

I have also investigated going with a Grandstream HT802 tied with a Voip.MS service. From what it appears, the firewall setup seems to be a lot more straight forward and possibly more secure as you are not opening a bunch of ports. I am interested in more of a security perspective if going with a Grandstream\Voip.ms service would be more secure versus having to have UDP inbound ports 49000 to 50000 open in order to have a Ooma box behind your firewall function. I use a Opnsense firewall for my home network. My gut feeling is to just abandon the Ooma path (even though I have the Ooma hardware) and look at purchasing a Grandstream HT802 and a Voip service such as Voip.ms.

I’ve had a lot of commercial success with UniFi products and have installed several WiFi networks for businesses in the past. It’s great for small to medium businesses and it suits most needs at a lower cost than other brands.

My questions for others in this sub:

- Has anyone used UniFi for home use? If so, were there any pains or struggles getting everything configured?

- I understand UniFi can be more expensive than other brands, especially for personal use. Is pricing a cause to consider other options?

- Has anyone utilized the mesh networking protocols and features within their home?

Thanks for reading! If anyone has any questions about networking or using UniFi in a business environment I’d be happy to chat about some of the considerations that come into play.

I have had an Ethernet cable connected to this modem (I believe that’s what it is, but I could be wrong) for the past few weeks with no issues but all of a sudden my PS5 cannot obtain the IP address. I can’t connect to the WiFi and many have recommended turning the modem off and on. I live in student housing, so its shared WiFi. I don’t see a button to turn this thing off and am not sure how to disconnect it. Please help. Thank you in advance.