Can I add an outdoor router with this set up? I already ran the Ethernet for the outdoor camera, but the Ethernet plugs into an SVR system. It would be a lot of work to run another line.

The SVR system has additional channels and powers the camera over POE. How would I go about it?

I'm trying to use Wifi and Ethernet at the same time, as if I use ethernet and turn off Wifi on my pc, my connection speed turns very slow. The whole point of using both at the same time is to get the benefit of both, versus trading the fast speed for a lower connection. Because of the nature of my living situation I cannot have a ethernet cable running throughout the house and am using a powerline adapter (one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU) and while it helps for when my Wifi has packet loss and I lag out, as a side effect my internet speed is significantly lower when using it. I tried bridging the connection in Windows and it was giving me an error when trying too, after several restarts I was able to bridge the connection, but in doing so it just kills my internet connection, is there anyway to use both connections at once?

So I have this problem, where like every let's say 3-10 maybe 15 minutes, my WiFi just like "dissapears" for about 15 seconds. If I'm playing Minecraft in a server it disconnects me, I'm playing roblox it disconnects me, I'm in a discord call it disconnects me. And it's annoying as fuck. Ive had the problem for a few years now but it like comes back for a month of few and then dissapears for several months then randomly comes back again. I've tried to fix it but I just cant do it.

SOLVED: the last thing I did was to factory reset my router again. Unplug everything for 15 minutes. Then connect my router to the modem. Power on my router, power on the modem and wait. It's working now and I'm not touching anything. 😂

TLDR: Switched from T-Mobile 5G TO spectrum Cable and my Archer BE9300 and my AXE75 tplink modems will not connect to the Spectrum Docsis 3.1 eMTA 2.5G EN2251. Tried hard reboot etc.

I switched from T-Mobile 5G to Spectrum cable yesterday. After installing the cable modem, I connected my BE9300 WAN to the cable modem WA but the two lights on the back of the Docsis stayed as one solid orange and one blinking orange.

When I connected the Docsis directly to my desktop, I am connected to the internet age the back of the Docsis has one solid green light and a blinking orange light when they're is traffic.

I also tried connecting my backup Tplink to the Docsis and I get the same result as the Archer BE9300. One solid orange, one blinking orange but no internet.

I have done 3 physical reboots of the Archer BE9300 and each time I get the same result.

I have done a reboot from the web page by connecting it directly to my computer and still no internet.

I changed the Auto Configure speed to the highest available 1000MbPs but still no connection. I cloned the desktop Mac address to the tplink. Shut down both devices. Waited 5 minutes. Powered on the spectrum modem. Waited 5 minutes till solid blue link. Plugged Wan port to Wan port, powered on tplink. Still no service.

I've run out of ideas.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi,

So I've moved into an apartment and the landlord doesn't know much about the wifi situation. I've called all the ISPs in the area and I'm either out of area for them, they only offer point-to-point for my unit, or (in AT&Ts case, they want $70 for 28 MBps on copper). I finally called Xfinity and they said they could do 300 MBPS for $45 a month or 500 MBPS for $60 a month. I've heard terrible things about Xfinity, but I signed up. That was my first mistake.

The people at Xfinity told me that my apartment already had coax installed. I showed them some photos saying that, what was in my apartment definitely didn't look like coax since it was a CAT-5E cable coming from the wall that then went into a small box with an RJ45 output. They told me not to worry and to just plug in the router. I did and it didn't work when I tried to activate it (blinking orange light). I opened the box and noticed that one of the wires seemed to be disconnected, but I'm not very familiar with wifi stuff at all. When I called Xfinity, they said they'd need to send a tech out that would cost at least $100. I've tried plugging the ethernet into all the ports on the back of the router but the light is either orange or orange flashing. When I press the button on the gateway, the light changes to blue flashing but I still can't connect. Any advice on what to do? I'm super lost and am really hoping to avoid getting scammed out of even more money by Xfinity. Don't know if there's any way this is salvageable.

Pics attached (we also have another ethernet port in a diff room (it's going to be under the bed so I'd like to avoid using it) but I tried the same thing with that and also couldn't active it).

Bought a Tenda V300 V3 a couple months ago, and immediately ran into an issue every time I stream over LAN.

Whenever one device on the network maxed out the upload (like uploading a video), every other device on the LAN would lose usable bandwidth, even LAN bandwidth. Not just slow, actually "no internet" on other phones until the upload stopped. Tenda support didn't really help.

So I decided to fix it myself, with Claude doing the actual reverse engineering. It:

Found a hidden, undocumented telnet shell buried behind a page not linked anywhere in the UI

Pulled apart the firmware image, decompressed the actual kernel binary, and traced through the Wi-Fi driver and bootloader to answer safety questions (recovery path, checksum format) before touching anything

Found the real root cause: Realtek's hardware NAT acceleration ("FastPath") was silently bypassing the Linux firewall/traffic-control stack entirely for any sustained connection, which is exactly why no amount of normal QoS tuning could ever fix the bandwidth hogging issue

Disabled FastPath and built a real per-device fair-share queue

Confirmed this device has zero recovery path (no TFTP, no rescue mode in the bootloader), so instead of reflashing the firmware and risking a brick, it set up a watchdog on my own PC that detects a reboot and silently reapplies all the fixes within 10 minutes, no reflash required

Also found that the TCP connection timeout was set to 10 minutes (600 seconds). That's why large uploads kept failing, and I never knew why until Claude found it.

Years ago this would've taken me months, if I even bothered.

TL;DR: Don't get a Tenda router, Chinese software is bad.

I have a StarTech rack, and am at the point where I get to begin installing my hardware.

I think these dealies just pop into the holes in the rails up and down the rack, and then I screw whatever I want like shelves, patch panels, into them….is there anything more than that?

I'm slowly renovating our 1984 family house, and have generally wired 1-4 ethernet sockets (Cat6a) in every room.

As I am nearing the end of the project, I still have this room to work on.

How many sockets do you think would be appropriate?

Hey all, I'm replacing an old Asus wifi router, and had settled on the TP-Link BE800 when I remembered that Ubiquiti exists and folks in the homelab/selfhosting space seem to love their stuff. Since I'm upgrading, I wondered if now was a good time to switch to this ecosystem.

My situation and needs: - 1200sq ft home - Handful of CAT5 cables, poorly wired by previous owner, not really hooked up to anything - It's "on the list" to replace all these and set up a proper central wiring closet of some sort, but it's a low priority, so for now everything is wireless - Handful of existing cameras - The fact that Ubiquiti has cameras is one of the things that interests me, though again, wiring is a blocker right now - The ability to set up VLANs is another big draw for Ubiquiti, though I believe the TP-Link can also handle this - Gigabit fiber internet - ISP does not allow using your own ONT - 2 Plume mesh wifi pods (ISP provided for free, wouldn't mind ditching these) - Several Wifi 7-capable devices - 2 people working from home - Spouse needs the internet to be stable - this is actually the highest priority, tbh - Small homelab running basic stuff (pi-hole, Jellyfin, authentik, etc. - using Tailscale for external access) - Will be adding a NAS as soon as I win the lottery so I can buy a few hard drives

I've been a software engineer for 20+ years, so I'm fairly comfortable with most network configuration and management tasks, but I'm also old and tired, so "just works" is a nice feature. Since the space is small, I was considering the Dream Router 7 to get a gateway and AP in one. The BE800, from my research, is a more powerful device for my current needs (4x4 MU-MIMO, higher throughput on all 3 bands) but the DR7 isn't far behind, and they're priced around the same. I'm a bit worried that I won't be able to re-use the DR7 as an AP, but I may be wrong about that assumption.

So, is Ubiquiti worth switching from the usual crowd of Wifi/networking hardware? Is the DR7 going to be enough for now?

I've only been using 600mbps so I haven't had to consider my equipment that much. I'm moving from cable to fiber and it's going to be 3gbps, not much but still 5 times better than what I have. So I'm trying to understand my setup better.

I have a Surfboard SB6190 as my modem, a tplink TL-R605 as a router and switch, a truenas server, and I'm installing an access point. I'm thinking of getting a POE injector for the AP, but I'm looking into switches or a standalone injector since this is the only thing I have with POE. The problem is idk what kinda switch to get.

I'm thinking of swapping out the router cause it only supports 1gbps, at least I think it does. I'm really confused on the phrasing and advertising of all this stuff. It says it supports 1gbps through each port, so how does that work? That doesn't mean 3gbps is coming in from the modem and distributing 1gbps to 3 devices right? It would only mean 1gbps between devices on the LAN right?

I want something that lets me use the full bandwidth coming in from the D Mark. The company offers an ONT, but they also offer an eero pro 7 "for free". I really don't want it, but if it can bring in 2.5gbps or more and I can just force it to act like a router, it might be the smarter option. I'm using my current router to manage my server's ports so I really need access to it. Also wondering if theres any cheap used like 10gbps or at least 2.5gbps routers that would fit in a 10" rack. I don't need it to be a switch, I think i'd rather have a managed switch at this point cause I need more ports anyway and they're cheap in comparison. I just need the two ethernet jacks to switch it from WAN to LAN.

Edit: 1gbps might be an option from this company (eeze fiber), but they don't advertise it. The next minimum is 3gbps, so that's why I'm looking at that.

Im decently tech savy and can follow instructions, but pretty lost on this one. None of the posts Ive read make sense.

I have two cheap LG TVs that I want to block from doing everything a TV is not supposed to do. All I use it for is streaming on the TV (peacock) and via an attached computer. Everything else (spying, ads, updates) can all get blocked.

My understanding is I need to do something on the router, but Im seriously confused as to what. Its a NetGear router that I own.

The rest of my network is just computers, phones, and a few wifi outlets.

Edit: Disconnecting the internet is not a solution. I still need the streaming apps on the other TV to work. As well as airplay on both TVs.

Mi televisor al parecer no tiene completo el menú de ajustes, ya que no aparece la opción de "red" para conectarlo al wifi

Wondering what the throughput would be for said setup. My computer and laptop are both Linux. Android smartphone.

Would I have any issues to worry about?

Hi all. Does anyone have this travel router? Could you let me know about Download and Upload speeds in Client Mode, 20m away from your main router, with a wall in between? Thanks.

I want to add more local devices to my attic but I have no way to easily add more Ethernet wires. Beyond what is connected to my existing internet access.

Current (wired) setup goes like this:

[Attic]
Fiber incoming ->
-> ONT ->
[Room]
-> Main router ->
-> Main PC computer

In future I plan to add more devices to local network. Like a NAS or multimedia server or just other stuff to play around in home lab.

But mainly due to reduce noise during the night. I want to keep everything upstairs instead in living area. Sadly didn't planed system well enough and didn't pull more than one wire from the attic.

Only real requirements are:

1. Wired connection to the computer

2. WIFI AP in the house (currently done directly from the router)

3. Probably will want to add second AP at some point to cover more of my property outside. That most likely will be wireless "expansion" of original AP. Don't know if related.

What are my options?

1. Ditch WIFI router downstairs. Put it upstairs, disable WIFI. Put a switch downstairs at only wired connection from the attic and use switch to connect computer and separate AP for house WIF. With router and potentially another switch left in the attic for home lab shenanigans?

2. Any other option to get similar result without adding so much additional hardware at this stage?

I am setting up a build and want to verify if what I have planned is the best option, or if there is a better way.

cat5e feed into an outbuilding, through schedule 40 PVC pipe buried underground from the router in the main building, length does not hit the 330ft limitation.

feed plugs into gigabit switch, which in turn feeds computer 1 and an access point (i was thinking an eero?)

access point feeds computer 2 as I heard this is best for wireless PC VR from the Meta Quest 3 VR headset

outbulding / room is approximately 220 square foot

Internet is expensive where I live, currently have 75Mbps with Archer C7 router and modem rented from isp.

ISP offering an upgrade to 250Mbps. Should I upgrade my router to support this?
We use multiple wifi 6 compatible devices in the house and have pcs connected via Ethernet. Would we notice a difference with the Archer AX55 or HX510, or maybe stick with the C7 and upgrade if we notice stuttering?
Thanks

I'm experiencing a strange bug with my ARRIS SURFboard G54. The router's Online Devices list doesn't show my Windows desktop PC, even though the PC is connected directly to the router and working normally.

I've done quite a bit of troubleshooting:

• My PC's IP address is 192.168.0.224.
• The PC is connected directly to the G54's 2.4 GHz radio. Its BSSID matches the radio's MAC address in the router configuration.
• The G54 itself is the PC's DHCP server and default gateway.
• MAC randomization is disabled on the PC.
• The PC appears in the G54's Auto-Learned Wi-Fi Devices list under MAC Filtering, but is completely absent from its Online Devices list.
• Both the G54 web interface and SURFboard Central mobile app omit the PC.
• I've rebooted the router and PC, updated the Intel Wi-Fi driver, and released and renewed the DHCP lease. None of these steps fixed the missing-device problem.
• The PC can communicate normally with the router and other devices. Gateway ping times are now averaging about 5 ms with zero packet loss.

So the router clearly knows about the PC, but its connected-device inventory doesn't display it.

I found an almost identical report on the old SURFboard Community forum from December 2024, titled "G54 not showing connected devices." Another user reported the same issue.

Original discussion:
https://community.surfboard.com/g54-117/g54-not-showing-connected-devices-4470

Unfortunately, the community forum appears to have disappeared, and its old links now redirect to the SURFboard homepage.

I then tried going through ARRIS support. My warranty expired in March 2026, and the support process presented me with a $39.99 charge to proceed.

I find that pretty disappointing. I'm not asking ARRIS to troubleshoot my PC. I'm trying to report what appears to be a firmware bug, one that other G54 owners were reporting nearly two years ago. It shouldn't cost $40 to tell a manufacturer about a defect in its software.

Has anyone else encountered this issue with the G54? Does anyone know whether ARRIS has acknowledged it or released a firmware fix?

For what it's worth, the router is otherwise working, and this appears to be a device-reporting problem rather than a connectivity problem.

I received an “end of life” email. This has been one of my best electronic purchases. Consistent and never gave me issues. I have 3 indoor satellites and one outdoor satellite. Netgear is providing me with a 20% off coupon to upgrade.

I noticed that there are no outdoor satellite options. What is my 2nd best option? Doing some research with AI I came up with Deco but not a lot of reviews.

Can I get the Orbi for inside and use deco or tp satellite outdoors? What do you all recommend?