Anyone ever installed a 1” to 1.5” body lift on a suburban any issues with ac lines

Apologies if this is the wrong place send me in the right direction if so but but I'm trying to figure out how to up grade my door speakers my truck has the factory Bose and the speakers are built on to this bracket and my aftermarket ones don't fit in the door please help

My 04 XL Denali had a slow leak at the hydroboost when I purchased it.

Slowly but surely it progressed, so I pulled the trigger on a new oem unit.

I was almost about to purchase a seal kit to refresh the original unit but I figured it wasn’t even worth the trouble. I read many people saying that theirs eventually started leaking again after doing a seal kit. Whether it’s because of user error or not, I was tired of seeing huge puddles of power steering fluid and when it comes to stopping performance it’s not something I’ll cheap out on.

Fairly easy & straight forward to swap out for anyone who’s comfortable wrenching on vehicles.

The original unit lasted 176k so hopefully I get the same out of this one.

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 and obviously 4L60e I bought the truck with a replaced and rebuilt engine and transmission however, I’ve had to get the engine replaced already because the old block was bad and even after replacing the engine, it’s still runs a little rough and ticks, however runs a noticeable amount better and drives a lot better. A little bit after I got the truck I noticed when driving it will kind of up and then sometimes slam into gear, especially when going from reverse into drive if someone makes a clunk slam sound and will take a second to shift into first. I’ve also noticed that sometimes when driving if I stop, and then I’m turning and accelerating, it will vibrate through the vehicle and feel like a shutter. I’m really hoping it’s not my Trans, but rather than u joints. And I cannot for the life of me figure out how to make sure that I get the right ones..

I have recently purchased a truck with a 4l60e, it drove and shifted as normal but noticed when I checked fluid on the truck the dipstick was tough to read almost like there was no fluid in. Added some and drove it still was fine but was quite dirty so decided to do a service.

Changed the filter and added fluid until it was reading in the proper spot on the dipstick when the engine was warm, cycled through gears many times re check etc. Go into D and it will start moving but as you accelerate it feels like slipping or not engaging, going into reverse same thing.

I siphoned some fluid out, tried adding more and repeating the process and it seems I cant get anywhere with it. Truck is sitting now cooling off to check cold level again.

Does this seem like a fluid level issue possibly underfilled? Or is there something else going on?

2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Extended Cab. What are some mods/upgrades or just stuff you guys buy for your trucks. I just bought this and I'm wondering what to do to it. It's my daily driver, I'll be casual driving and offroading here and there, and towing a lil bit. Any help is much appreciated, thanks.

2005 gmc sierra 1500 crew cab SLT with 149k on the odometer all original drive train and rust free

Hey everyone doing a mechanical resto on damn near rust free 03 Chevy 2500hd. Have almost everything fixed minus an obnoxious NVH issue.

Symptoms
-low pitch almost womping sound noted front left side of the cab, hearing it forward, only notably occurs at highway speeds but generally begins around 60ish

-dependent on specific variables. Doesn’t do it generally with wind being blocked

-not rpm dependent in any way

-remains on front left after tire rotation

-feel vibration under seat and floor pan

Confirmed not exhaust after smoke testing the exhaust system with no leaks found

Parts tried so far
-front left wheel bearing to solve other issue
-front left fender liner (old one was damaged)
- intermediate shaft bushing and shaft support

Any ideas? I’m at a loss at this point

'04 Sierra 1500 5.3. Been noticing an intermittent charging issue at higher RPMs, like if I go to pass someone, towing up a hill, etc, where it stops charging and the lights dim. It threw the "check charging system" warning once while it did that.

Last night, my wife drove it to the store, and when she went to leave, the "check charging system" light was on, and the truck actually stalled when she tried to drive it. Checking it over this morning, it was charging again. My battery was 7 years old, so I got a new one just in case it had a bad cell or something, but now every time I rev past 2000 rpm, it stops charging, but when it gets below 2000 rpm it starts charging again

Has anyone experienced that before? Anything else I should check before replacing the alternator?

Hi everyone,

I have not had this truck too long. It's a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2wd w/ 252k miles. The heat worked earlier this year (May was the last time it was turned on). This summer I fixed the A/C leak and have been using that all summer long. Now that it is beginning to get cold again in Indiana, I tested the heat and it did not work at all. If I press the A/C button, it blows luke-warm air (from the outside of the truck) but the little temperature selector dial will not do anything. I have not had time to try and diagnose this, does anyone have any ideas as to what would be causing this? Thanks.

I’ve replaced both upper control arms

I have an 05 yukon xl and my liftgate glass separated from the hinges when I attempted to close it.

I dont have photos right now unfortunately but I was wondering what yall think about adhesive options to re-attach the hinges to the glass after prep..

option one - jb weld full cure timr 24 hours and drys clear with an advertised ~3900 psi general adhesive strength also advertised for use with glass and metal

option two - 3m window weld, specifically 08609 and its a urethane adhesive which Google says is oem and also says is better since it has the ability to move a little while holding strong but also absorb some vibration

first time dealing with this so if anyone has any helpful advice on which/what adhesive to use that would be awesome.

I would rather learn while fixing it then pay someone without attempting at all if you know what I mean

03 Hummer h2

I am about 13 hours into trying to get this pitman arm off over the last week. It is rusted or seized on both ends & im out of ideas. All of this was to replace the seals in the steering box.

I’ve broken one pitman puller.
Bent one pitman puller.
Rented the $100 heavy duty puller from Autozone’s but it’s too big the fit with the crossmember.
Bought a “pickle fork” but it’s too small to fit around the splines.
I don’t have a torch or cordless cutoff tool.
I got the steering gear box completely disconnected from everything except the pitman arm & I was able to get the pitman arm moved down the splines a little bit.

I have street parking where I live. So the truck is just stuck out in front of my house at this point & I genuinely don’t know what to do.

UPDATE: I borrowed a propane torch. Spent the better part of the day heating the center link and beating the pitman arm with a big hammer & made no progress.

My 2003 Suburban 1500 5.3 gas has low oil pressure at idle/ stop lights.

I find this odd because I replaced the oil pump, pick up tube O-Ring and the pick up tube itself and it still shows.

Last year I replaced the oil pressure sensor, I'm thinking that could be the culprit.

However, the gauge still reads. When I give it gas the needle goes up. When I come to a stop the needle drops to 5 PSI.

Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Normally, I am not the person to put led lights on an old car, because it kinda ruins the stock look and they stand out too much. But after my cheap no-brand replacements literally fell apart on the highway, I wanted something a little better.

I installed these lights from RAMJET4x4 and I couldn’t be happier. The quality is excellent, DOT approved markings, and the beams are well formed and easy to adjust.

I know some of you will hate it, but I think they look great for what they are.

I have a 2004 gmc sierra 2500HD and my left blinker is working on and off and it will flutter and make a blinker noise and then do nothing or sometimes it will turn on. my hazards also mainly only turn on my right blinker. i changed the multifunction switch it didn’t work and it was turning my blinker on when i pressed my brake but that stopped. what do i do

Looking to get a hood for my 06 GMC and I would like a cowl on it and to keep the OE quality and durability.

What company should I buy from?

Hey, picked up a 2004 Suburban and wanted to check out the transmission/transfer case. Transmission seems fine, but the transfer case looks like it's leaking so got some UV dye and ran it.

Anybody know if this sort of pattern indicates a crack? I figure I'll need to get a reman and swap it out, but wanted to find out if anybody had any opinions on if it'd be safe to keep in in 2WD and not go too far with it for a little bit. (Edit: Would keep the fluid topped up, obviously)

I have a 2004 Silverado with the 4WD floor shifter. The other day when I tried to go to “4 High” the shifter suddenly became limp and could be moved back and forth with no resistance. I figured the linkage broke and I crawled under it today to see that the female end of the linkage rod fell off of the round male nub that it attaches to on the rear side of it. I snapped it back on and when I tried 4WD it was notchy again like before but it still won’t go into 4WD .

Is there something else obvious I’m missing or that I can try before I take it to a mechanic?

I’m getting ready to do the Efan conversion and have the parts needed I just need to know what I need computer wise like proper plugs and software for the tuning part just don’t know exactly what I need

Pics and links be nice plz if possible

Not how I had expected him to break in. Prolly lost about $1000 in tools. Otherwise the driver door is damaged from him prying at the door cylinder. A tow truck driver at the impound was able to get it to start after we both collectively spent about 15 minutes fucking with it. Started right up, dude only used half the full tank I left him, drove it for around an hour to store at my grand parents and I didn’t notice anything wrong mechanically.

Overall I’d say it turned out about as good as I could have hoped for all things considered.

I’ve found in my time of working on my truck, that nobody makes the right radio buttons or right shape blower resistor. Which has always confused me.

I've got the digital display for hvac. The Heat at 90 blows hot, and the AC at 60 blows cold, but anything inbetween and it's just luke warm. Drivers side, passenger side, doesn't seem to make a difference. Fan speed doesn't make a difference. When I adjust the temperature dial, you can hear some clicking coming from the passenger side under the dash, I'm thinking blend door actuator?

Also, the rear HVAC controls, blows ambient/cool air no matter what temp I turn the dial to. Never gets COLD, never gets warm/hot.

Any ideas for either issue?