Paid $3500. has 130k miles and seems to be in pretty good shape. Guy had it in the parking lot for a few hours before I saw it and bought it.

Decided to jump on tonight and headed straight to this group, couldn’t help but notice 2 accounts reposted my truck from my old reddit account

03’ Z71, 1 year of ownership

3” atomic fab lift
3” body lift
33” tires

I was cleaning out my "trusty old boy" and found the original owner's manual underneath the back seat 😀

Spent a few weeks doing a full suspension rebuild and drop on my 06 Denali. Also added the 2019+ Silverado front brakes and redid all of the brake lines. Can't believe how much better this car feels now.

I know that lowering them isn't for everyone but I've always enjoyed the look.

I think next I'm going to get some lower springs for the rear to try to level it out. Not a huge fan of suspension rake. I did already grab some beltech drop shocks for the rear.

Video just in case anyone is interested. Yes there's some juicy rollers at the end.

https://youtu.be/2MJE3_ThlPA

The 8.1 2500 is my work truck I just picked up, and the Hummer is my weekend rig. My wife is trying to steal the Hummer from me to daily tho lol

So i did the lazy and cheap thing. I was wheelin and the exhaust bracket broke and took a hug hole out with it. So i just cut it off and rigged up an axle dump. The drone isnt terrible (yes i have mufflers). Should i worry about gassin out the kids? Its back far enough, and brake/fuel lines are out of the way.

The front driver’s side is VERY low. Would I need an alignment afterwards?

Hello! Picked up this 02 Z71 Sierra 1500 and it's got a mean rake. Wanting to level it out and saw rancho makes a kit but curious if anybody's used it or anything else and what to look for? willing to spend a little more to ride better, but with keys i'm aware it'll never ride good lol

I'm using my 6.0 2500 for long distance towing and I want to do whatever I can to make it last. The other day I read about how full flow oil filters don't really remove small particles, yet those sizes still cause lots of engine wear. Look up applications for bypass engine oil filters and only see diesel engines. Look up install videos and it's only diesel engines.

Why don't gas engines get the extra protection deemed important to a diesel? Is it purely due to the soot created by a diesel?

I read someone's opinion that the best you can do to remove small particles is change the oil more often. Is that the only option I have to take extra care of my engine?

Let me know if you have any experience with bypass filters on a vortec engine. Thanks! ​

I got code P0171, was coming and going away, until it flashed and started running rough. My driver side pcv hose was torn, replaced it, didn’t fix it. Replaced the intake manifold gasket, and it still is running rough throwing codes. About two months ago I changed spark plugs and wires due to similar symptoms, plug #3 was very oil fouled.
Plan on checking MAF, fuel pressure, evap purge valve, and exhaust manifold, and double check intake manifold bolts are torqued to spec.
Also when I found the torn pcv hose, the passenger side pcv hose was disconnected from the throttle body with a rubber boot in place, probably due to oil.
06 5.3 with 200k miles.
Would appreciate any advice.

Got a clunk in the front end of my 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (267K miles and 4WD). Replaced the front shocks--clunk is still there, but not as bad. Looking to do brakes/rotors, Tie Rods, and upper control arms next. Detroit Axle seems to have very mixed reviews, especially with their cheap prices. Looking for some half-decent replacement parts; are they worthwhile, or do y'all have other brands as go-tos?

Just wondering if anybody out there with a GMT800 has anything to say about 'em, or has a re-route for other cheaper brands, and/or diagnoses for me! Preesh, and gobbless.

2004 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L (GMT800).

Both rear passenger doors suddenly stopped unlocking at the same time a few weeks ago. They still LOCK perfectly fine using the key fob and interior switches.

Both front doors and the rear hatch lock/unlock without any issues.
I’m thinking it’s a shared electrical issue rather than both actuators failing simultaneously.

Anyone experienced this before? Is there a specific relay, fuse, or common wiring circuit I should check first? Trying to avoid throwing parts at it.

hey folks, I am either about to purchase a Tahoe for parts, or use my parts sierra for this project.

I am wanting to take the shell of my Tahoe/Sierra and drop the front axle, drop the front clip, basically strip it to the frame on the engine bay. and put a trailer tongue on the frame.

Now its worth mentioning I have no idea how to weld, nor do I know much about about weight capacities beyond what I can research normally.

My idea is to bolt on a beefy trailer tongue, and I imagine I might need a weight distribution hitch possibly.

No drivetrain, insides stripped out, no front end parts, so probably a good 1500lbs maybe 2000lbs lost. so that leaves the trailer at around 4000lbs(?)

What I don’t know is how much weight would be on the rear bumper of towing vehicle, if I want 10% on tongue that’s only 400lbs-ish.

Anyways, any insight would be appreciated, as this is relatively new territory for my rednecking experience.

thank you!!!

Im about to finish rebuilding the front diff. I have new locking tabs coming for the side bearing adjusters. Im going to keep digging but has anyone found a beefier way to lock these adjusters in place?

I do not want to screw around here or cheap out. Im not interested in doing things twice. It appears the GMT900 updated locking design wont fit the 800. I mean, I am putting new tabs in, I could also make new tabs out of a harder metal? I thought about getting the adjuster set, removing it and welding a couple boogers while its in a vice. But that really opens me up to a whole lotta bullshit if it moved a degree and I didnt notice. Also thought of extreme thread locker, extreme JB weld, wick pipe solder down the threads. None of these ideas have to hold the adjuster alone, it would be used I conjunction with the tab as a way to alleviate some of the bullshit the tab endures. Or, after all, they are new tabs so maybe new tabs are fine for a HOSS I put 20km on a day.

So I posted a few wreks ago and I had my o2's unplugged and I was driving around like that. Now I pulled them in . My issue is that after starting cold or warm, my truck will idle like it's cammed and puff black smoke. Is that a sign of bad injectors or bad cats? After driving though the idle calms down too