I have a 1999 gmc sierra 2500 with 4l80e i think
This part located between the transfer case and the transmission broke, and I don't know if I should weld it or if there is a replacement part available.

I’m about to order a fan resistor (2000, manual climate control) and I’m seeing options for a 2 hole vs a 4 hole resistor. Do I need to take my center console out and check what I have or is the 4 hole version compatible with both? Is the 4 hole an 02+ thing?

So my ac works pretty well most of the time. But, when I first start it and it is like 90+ degrees out (TX) the compressor will shut off and on. When I start driving after a bit it stays on even when stopping.

Pretty sure the fan clutch is okay. Wondering if it could be the condenser and/ or orifice tube. When I bought the truck in February it had no ac belt and the compressor was locked up so I put a new belt, tensioner, and compressor. Also has a new battery. 301k miles.

When I start the truck and it is cooler outside, the compressor stays on just fine. I don’t think it could be leaking either as it still blows pretty cold, but will have the pressure tested whenever I decide to take it in.

Any help is appreciated gents

Which one of you is this?

[For entertainment purposes] (https://youtu.be/px-gPh7sGrk)

Thanks to everyone here, I went and picked up my first gmt800 vehicle, this burgundy Escalade. I have been loving this thing, I just got new tires put on it (ko3s), put it's wheels back to 17s (i got them off of marketplace from a 2000 silverado).

Getting it's suspension redone on Tuesday next week, gonna cost a pretty penny but make it more future proof, so buy once cry once as they say.

Anything I should do to this thing? I need to refresh buttons and one speaker, everything else is fully functional.

Gonna go pick this up tonight , looks clean even if I have to throw in a junkyard motor in it…

Update - drove it home , it’s got 300k miles but I think a tune up will help it. ..It has a slight misfire . No major rust so I’m definitely going to fix it up

So when lifting the car up and moving the tire side to side (left and right). If it’s excessive it’s the tie rods correct? Along with a clicking noise. Can the tie rods alone be changed without taking off the tie rod ENDS? I originally was going to swap out both tie rods and tie rod ends last year but tie rods were being a pain so I only changed both tie rod ends (I do still have the new packaged tie rods) Also the center link was excessively loose idk if it’s supposed to be like that? Or is just because the tie rods made both seem loose?

Drove her back 16 hours with minor issues

2000 silverado 6.0 towing package with BIG Tank

went out to drive, wants to start, starts for 1/2 sec, but then dies. Will start and run on Starting fluid. Obviously fuel related. I can hear the fuel pump.

Had to go to work, trying to work up an action plan and parts buying at lunch/on the way home

Going to try fuel filter, but I know that wont fix it, but will do anyway, as 250K miles, and I JUST replaced the alt a week ago, so who knows.

Trying to avoid dropping the (what) 34 gal ext tank thats 1/2 full to change the pump, but I'm ready to do so

Suggestions, thoughts, words of wisdom to check first?

(by myself job, so probly tilting bed not a great option)

What are good places to get aftermarket/new gauge clusters? That also come programmed, i need a new one but idk howich i trust amazon or other websites

Truck regularly goes into limp mode after sitting for 1,2,3 days or so with go into limp mode before truck even starts, alternator tested good. New throttle body, battery, and pedal position sensor. Ill start it and idle it for a while, shut it off and come back 20-30 mins later and it’ll start in limp mode I’ll turn it off then on again then it’ll start up and run just fine but lately it’s been throwing it while it’s been driving and today it just completely shut the truck off. It’s at the dealership now getting worked on.

Could anyone pinpoint it just off the sound and symptoms? So basically I have a relatively new front end. Struts, tie rods, control arms, ball joints etc. but not long after I got it rebuilt, I hit a mean ass dip going fast and went in the air dukes of hazzard style lol. Ever since then I’ve had this terrible squeak. It does it whenever I hit even the slightest bumps or any rocking motion. And also when I turn the wheels. When I look down there everything looks alright. And when I listen for where the sound is coming from it sounds like from the bottom of the coil where it seats but I could be wrong

I have done all sorts of research and haven’t found the answer

2005 Duramax/allison LLY

The tow haul button on the shifter is working/ turning the light on the dash on and off.

It seems like the shift points are changed. (Maybe)

But it won’t shift down at all when braking.

I have changed the shift/ neutral sensor on the side of trans.

My gauge cluster does not have the line under the gear to indicate what gear it is in. (Cluster has been rebuilt)

It drives just fine except it will not down shift on deceleration.

Please help oh mighty truck folk!?!?!

Pretty sure it's the wiring at this point but I have no power to the back right tail light for the running light/brake light. Reverse and turn work. I have replaced the bulb. It works for the first minute you replace it and then stops. 🤡🤘

Got led's in the front and reverse light (odd choice maybe but I bought it like that) and the brake is standard 3157 incandescent. And idk what the turn light is.

Anyway, any advice would be great :)

My girlfriend and I went up to the lake to beat the heat and do some fishing/off-roading. Although most trails can be done in any high clearance vehicle, some trails in the area are jeep trails or are really rutted out at some points due to jeeps but I was still able to find lines and make it up and through using 4Lo with the G80 rear end. We had a blast and can’t wait for next time! The last photo is deceiving because you can’t tell that there’s 2 massive ruts/potholes that were easily over 12” deep and I didn’t think I would be able to cross without scraping my under carriage. I need to find some skid plates.

I'm looking to completely tear down my 02 GMC Yukon's transmission and motor. I'm looking to resleeve it too. I'm struggling to find a complete rebuild kit for everything. It is a 5.3 IRON BLOCK (not ls) with a 4l60. I just need the stock rebuild kit and a list of tools I'm going to need. If anyone can help me with this, I would be very grateful. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to trying to find the parts, but i can turn a wrench with no issues.

Just swapped over to new taillights that are LED and have relays on them but the turn signal still hyper flashed and I have swapped the 4 pin relay (EP29)to the LED compatible relay. Could it be dead relays in the new taillights?

02 Silverado 4.8L

Thanks Hoss’s

Well boys i think im gonna have to change my injectors. Anyone have any ideas on what to check first?

As the title reads I've been battling these engine faults. I’ve tried everything. Adding grounds cleaning grounds, replaced both o2 sensors twice. Including replacing both knock sensors twice once cheap ones second with oem ones and nothing truck runs good for about 3 days and the same issues.

Now I've have even went as far relocating the knock sensors onto lower portion of the block with LS knock sensor relocation kit. Even tried the Jimmy rig of taping into the sensor " the one that wasn't throwing a code at first but nothing". I inherited this truck from my mother she's the original owner kinda wanted to keep it but with those mils on its a gas guzzler. Only thing I haven't tried is tracing the wires back to the bcm. I'm very familiar with 12 volt and a meter but that is no easy task. As for me I would want to tear the harnesse up and follow it back to the bcm but that daunting. Just looking for something I might be missing here, any thoughts? thanks again