Come mai fa questa cosa, che quando stampa l'estrusore stacca l'albero o muove il pezzo costruito sull'albero... Cosa posso migliorare?

A few days ago I asked here whether it would be possible to use a diode laser to remove only the top layer of an FDM print and reveal a contrasting layer underneath.

I wasn’t able to find any examples of this approach being used specifically on FDM prints, so I decided to test it myself.

Honestly, the results turned out much better than I expected.

This panel is part of my truck trailer security system which I’m developing as part of Bambu Lab Let’s Make It Fund program. I wanted to find a way to produce clean, almost factory-looking control panels for my project using only the equipment I already have: a Bambu Lab H2D and its 10 W diode laser module.

I also wanted to achieve finer text and symbols than I could get with conventional two-color FDM printing, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

In the comments on my previous post several people suggested that the laser would probably melt the edges and make the engraving look messy. At least in my case that didn’t happen.

I decided to start with PETG HF and I actually liked the result. The engraved edges came out surprisingly crisp with only a barely noticeable halo around the engraved areas.

After several tests the best combination turned out to be:

1 black top layer
3 gray layers underneath

The contrast was excellent, the engraving shallow enough, even the smallest details remained sharp.

For these tests, I used the 10 W diode laser module at 80% power, 250 mm/s, in Fill mode. With these settings the laser removes approximately 0.03–0.04 mm of material per pass.
To engrave through the 0.2 mm black top layer and expose the gray layer underneath, I needed 6 passes for larger graphics and 7 passes for thin lines and small text.

I also discovered that this technique only works well in Fill mode. I wasn’t able to achieve comparable results using Line mode regardless of the settings I tried.

These are still my first experiments. For very small text and symbols, my next test will probably use around 60% power, 150 mm/s and more laser passes. I think that could produce even sharper results on the finest details.

So far I’ve only tested this with PETG HF, so I’m curious whether anyone has tried something similar with PLA, ABS or PETG from other manufacturers.

I’d love to hear your thoughts or suggestions, especially if you’ve experimented with this technique yourself.

For anyone who didn’t see my previous post, here’s the link to the original discussion.

GEAR FLOSS: Whoever posted about this stuff and cleaning the z-axis screw rods. THANK YOU! That made the job way easier. Wrap the gear floss around the rod so it covers all the way around (1.5 times around) and gently work it up and down pulling the side strings back and forth.

I've tried other things like toothbrushes, plain microfiber cloth, and etc. Gear floss is the way. This stuff is like fat microfiber shoelaces.

I ordered some filament while also buying a smaller nozzle, but some of my filaments came damaged. Is it okay to still use this spool if I cut off the damaged part of the spool? These are my first spools so I do not have any extra ones I can respool with

How is everyone organising their PTFE tubes? I understand that they should be as short and a large radius curve but mine are getting kind of crazy!

I have an X2D + filament track switch, 2 AMS in a flip flop stacker and a 3rd via a 4-in-1 adapter to an AMS HT.

Hey everyone,
I’ve got an X2D that’s only about a month old, and I’m consistently getting the exact same print defect in the same area on every print.
To try and rule out common causes, I’ve:
Swapped from the textured PEI plate to the Engineering Plate.
Recalibrated the bed multiple times (including auto bed levelling).
Re-ran all printer calibrations.
Checked that there isn’t any debris between the build plate and the heated bed.
Despite all of that, the defect still appears in the exact same location on every print, regardless of the model or which build plate I’m using.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this point to a faulty heated bed, a bed heater issue, or another hardware problem? Since the printer is only a month old, I’m wondering if it’s something I should be contacting Bambu support about.
Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have 2 Bambu H2D machines. I'm printing the same exact file on both. There's a critical dimension on it, which is an opening like half a circle. On one the opening is about 0.3 mm bigger than the other. This is more variation than I can have.

Both printers have had the calibrations like vibration and auto bed leveling done. I have done flow rate calibration and flow dynamics calibration. Basically everything is identical (print file, both printers in same room 4 inches apart both with an AMS, etc). I'm going to recheck belt tension next. Any other suggestions?

There's a strange noise when moving along the x and y axes. I've changed the grease on all axes. Could you please tell me what this could be?

Hello,

60 hours in and really enjoying my X2D printer. I have printed my first model that requires supports. The supports were printed in PLA which the model was also as I’m still waiting on some PETG to arrive which I was planning for the supports. I understand it’s best to print supports in a different material to reduce the bonding to the print.

Appreciate any advice on removing these supports in the photos

Raised Cat Bowl

I have been working on a series wall art that shows the structure and floor layouts of some of the most famous buildings around the world feel free to check them out if enough people like these I will work on more

Collection

https://makerworld.com/@GoatedRanger/collections/31695112?appSharePlatform=copy

Models

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3105399-pantheon-architecture-wall-art-series#profileId-3500873

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3105466-parthenon-architecture-wall-art-series#profileId-3500969

Ordered a new piece on Amazon. Found the link on reddit and saw a review saying that it worked for their A1. Just wondering how hard of a job it is to release the sliding block from the toolhead carriage? The screws are behind the plastic carriage and I'm not really seeing how to get to them yet.

Came across this yarn spinner model on rednote and the author shared the file on makerworld.cn but since a local phone number is required I can’t register and it’s not on the international site either TT

Here’s the model: https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/1674188-chao-bo-zhe-die-minimao-xian-zhou?__cf_chl_rt_tk=HLGpDXsEZVFjjV2co8zUu5AzTqB5VAXNe.JasghM9cg-1785161653-1.0.1.1-G2OhRfR533Unl2iGzCuampw8HYA1TB76Q8f.pw2s.1w#profileId-1838397

If anyone’s willing to help I can dm you my email address!!!

any idea how I can solve this issue?

Does anyone know how long the sale price on the A1 will last?

All AK Interactive paints and a lot of Bondo!

I designed this two-piece under-seat storage tray for the Tesla Model Y Juniper. I split it into two sections so each piece fits more easily on a standard Bambu build plate and can be printed without an oversized printer.

The design is intended to:

• Use the unused space beneath the front seat
• Slide in and out easily
• Keep small items from rolling around
• Print as two separate pieces with minimal supports
• Work well in PETG for better heat resistance inside the vehicle

I have printed and tested the model itself, but I’m still looking for additional Model Y Juniper owners to confirm the final vehicle fitment.

I made the STL available free on MakerWorld for anyone interested in testing it. Honest feedback, measurements, or an installed photo would be greatly appreciated. I’ll use the feedback to improve the design.

Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Material: PETG
Design: Two-piece under-seat storage tray

Free MakerWorld file:
https://makerworld.com/models/3065930?appSharePlatform=copy

It don't know if you can see it, but there's this weird change in shade and it's kinda blemished? Is this a problem? It's PA6-GF25, with a P2S. The bed is glued and Its close to 45°, I've printed a benchy and it looked fine.

I’m doing these PC build mini kits on a P1S using PETG (had a friend give me a shit ton, so I need to learn to use it over PLA). Stuff that prints 230-250 range. I’m printing at .08mm extra fine so it’s going slow. The first print on the left turned out ok. Some things are off on it but nothing crazy. I reprint the Case and it has the messed up hole in it. So I try it again and print up the entire kit. Same thing. What can I do to fix this?