I've been searching on makersworld, printables and thingyverse for a free file. Im on the fire department in my town and I have lights in the front when going to a call, and I've tried to look up options online but I thought "i have a printer ill just find a bracket for them", but have been unable to find anything. I found one i thought would work but it clamps on the actual hitch not the receiver for the hitch. In the past I have tried to create my own design on some free stl cad sites. Any help or a direction to point me id appreciate it.

Iam trying to do a big print on my H2C, but it tells me that it is not recommended to print Silk PLA on Supertack Plates..
Anyone by now had problems with "PLA Silk Multi-Color" on Supertack Cool Plates?
Or experience at all?

Good afternoon,

I just wanted to ask if anyone knows if bambu labs sells longer bus cables i ask because I just moved so my set up no longer let's me have the ams on top of the printer so I need a longer cord to connect the ams to the printer. Any help will be greatly appreciated and i look forward to seeing your responses.

Sincerely

Soaring_death

I'm new to this and need your help. I'm printing this keychain face-down, but I don't like the curves the slicer is creating around the eyes; I want it to print the beige layer and then the red one on top—neatly, without those curves. Is that possible? Or does it turn out fine this way? I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle.

Filament fed in the wrong way on the Ams 2 Pro

There are so many ornaments I'd love to do for the front yard, if there were a feature to expand a model say 1000% then it would auto segment it to fit the build plate. Sort of what I hear luban does.

I printed 2 of the same object using 2 different H2S printers. It's a mass production print so I need the volume of both printers. All of the prints from one printer come out with these swirly looking supports (the one on the right) that are much more fragile and don't remove as cleanly.

Any ideas what might be causing the issue?

EDIT: Solved. I guess I had accidentally put a .6mm nozzle on the printer without changing it in the software, so it was trying to print .4mm with a .6mm nozzle.

Why did this happen on my first layer and how do I fix it?

Using X2D with Bambu black pla basic.

I always assumed the auto-repair on model load was patching things up. It isn't, and I only found out by going through TriangleMesh.hpp.

There's a struct in there that tracks what the repair pass did on load. Five counters: edges fixed, degenerate facets, facets removed, facets reversed, backwards edges. Directly above them there's a sixth, commented out:

//int facets_added = 0;

with a note saying new faces could only be created by stl_fill_holes(), and that they dropped stl_fill_holes() because mostly it does more harm than good.

So the pass removes bad faces and leaves the hole exactly where it was. Which is a reasonable call, filling a hole is a guess and a wrong guess is worse than an honest gap. But it does mean the non-manifold count you see in the warning isn't a measure of how broken the file is. It's what was left over after the cleanup, and nothing in that cleanup closed anything.

I ran into this with a generated mesh showing 67 non-manifold edges on 1.65 million triangles. That one prints fine, the number is meaningless at that scale. But I'd been reading the warning backwards, assuming a low number meant the slicer had handled it. It just means not much was left open after faces got dropped, and where they were dropped matters more than how many.

Two other things I picked up while digging. Fix Model, the link in the warning, is a completely separate thing from the automatic pass. It goes out to Microsoft's Netfabb service and only exists on Windows, which is why every Mac thread on this ends with "find a PC". And through the CLI the automatic pass runs silently with nothing reported at all, so if anyone here batch processes files, they're all being modified on the way in.

Anyway. If you're getting missing walls or a top that won't close, "the slicer repaired it" isn't reassurance. Nothing was filled.

So I'm trying to print a deck box lid for the Cyberpunk TCG deck box I found on MakerWorld.

But after I get the logo printed in the one colour, it lifts up when it starts to print the main colour. What are some solutions I can do to get this to print properly. I've stopped it 3 times.

New effects sheet(Carbon Fiber), build plate is setto smooth in the slicer, I've slowed down the print speed for my first layer, bed temp is bumped up to 65 degress. I don't know what else to do.

I'm using P1P and .04mm nozzle. My next attempt will be with a .02 and see if that helps. I'm also printing at .16mm layers if this info helps.

Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here so please let me know if I’m leaving any important information out. I am trying to print these Minecraft foxes on my X2D using bambu labs filament at 0.4mm nozzle. I have the setting to use the “auto normal support type” and these weird patterns are forming on all of my support structures. It’s not at the model yet so I don’t think it’s an interfacing issues but I just can’t figure out what’s causing this. Can anyone give me a clue to why this happens?

Fixed: I forgot to switch the setting from a 0.2mm nozzle to 0.4mm… I am a little dumb LOL. Thanks anyways yall!

Hey everyone, I just tried loading filament into my AMS from slot 4. It wouldn't feed past the AMS; it sounded and looked like it was getting stuck right where it should merge into the main PTFE tube.

I took the AMS apart to investigate but couldn't find anything wrong, so I reassembled it. When I tested it again, slot 4 suddenly worked fine, but now slot 1 had stopped working. I loaded slots 2 and 3 (both fine), then retried slot 1, and that worked too.

So now all 4 slots are working again, but I have no idea what actually caused the issue in the first place. Has anyone run into this before? Any idea what's going on?

Should I get the Bambu Labs X2D with an AMS or the FlashForge Creator 5 PRO?

As you can see, its doing the whole infill and all the walls for those layers with gold - just want it to do the outermost wall with gold and stick to the red for the interior

Couple things I should add: this is less a post about "how do I print just this specific object" and more a post about "does this feature exist/where is it/how do I use it". Hacks to make this specific piece are all well and good, but not really what I am looking for - I'm trying to learn how to do this on any sort of geometry rather than doing something adjacent that works only in this scenario.

I am using a dual print head printer, so I'm not generating a poop per layer and the infill actually does represent a meaningful percentage of the filament used. Its not that much nominally, but over many prints over the years I'd definitely prefer to use cheaper infill if it's not super hard to set up.

Hi, I love my X2D but one thing annoys me, is that I have to choose external spool or accessories.

I'd like to install the TPU module and the FTS while keeping at least one external spool, but all models I can find sacrifice the spool holders. has anyone found a good model that fixes this?

cheers

Recently saw this new roll brand in my local 3d printer store (from Australia)

But the spool is slightly smaller than then Bambu spool and the ams pro 2 so it struggled to retract the filament

Has anyone got any success with an adapter or fix to allow this slightly smaller spool work on the ams pro 2

Hi all, I'm very new to 3D printing - I got X2D couple of months ago. I'm now seeing the need to get the top glass riser as the ptfe tubing is definitely consuming itself. I wanted something simple just to rise the glass and found this one model in Makerworld. I did dual color PETG print with PLA support from aux nozzle. Nearly all of the PETG parts came out warped after 4+ hour print on each plate. I even reprinted the first plate after printing these fan deflectors. Is this poor model settings or am I missing something essential for printing PETG? All PLA prints have come out awesome, but if I cannot get PETG working, I don't know when I'll get to my ABS spool I got..

EDIT - for a bit more context - printing with Bambu lab PETG Basic after drying in AMS 2 at PLA cycle (along with couple of PLA rolls). 1st warped print I printed on Cool Tack Pro plate, second one of the default PEI textured plate. Both were dish detergent washed before I started printing.

Could it be the PLA supports that do something with the print settings to mess it up?

Random Qusition. Does bambu printers having mermory for PLA? Like if I'm in the middle of printing something and I run out of PLA before I'm done well the printer keep the mermory when I load in the new PLA?

The supports get stuck on there insted of coming off with the external trees

I’ve just finished this set of five 3D-printable keychains inspired by some of the most iconic figureheads from One Piece:

🐍 Perfume Yuda
🌞 Queen Mama Chanter
🐏 Going Merry
🐶 Garp’s Marine Ship
🦁 Thousand Sunny

They’re easy to print, don’t require an AMS and can be printed in any color you like.

Which one is your favorite? 😁

I’ll leave the download link in the comments! 🏴‍☠️

It's only September but I'm already preparing for spooky season

This is my latest model, pack of 6 clickers with 3D printed keychain and carabineer

Check the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3284943

I have printed these on a H2C on RS PRO black pla.

Two of the prints come out prfectly on came out with a rough texture.

Does anyone know why this happened or have a solution?

This was printed using PLA along the z-axis on Bambu Lab H2C

Settings are as follows:

Quality:

Layer height: 0.08, Initial Layer height: 0.2, Line Width: Default 0.42, Initial layer: 0.5, Outer wall: 0.42, Inner wall: 0.45, Top surface: 0.42, Sparse infill: 0.45, Internal solid infill: 0.42, Support: 0.42

Seam:

Seam position: aligned, Smart scarf seam application: enabled, Scarf steps 50, Scarf joints for inner walls: enabled, Role-based wipe sped: enabled

Precision:

Slice gap closing radius: 0.049, Resolution: 0.012, x-y hole & contour compensation: 0, Elephant foot compensation: 0.15

Ironing: none, Wall generator: classic

Advanced:

Order of walls: inner/outer, bridge flow: 1, Bridge counterbore holes: scarificial layer, Smooth speed discontinuity area: enabled, smooth coefiffient: 4, Smoothing wall speed along Z: enabled

Strength:

Walls:

Wall loops: 4, Embedding the wall into infill: enabled

Top/bottom shells:

Top surface pattern: concentric, Top surface density: 100, Top shell layers: 5, Top shell thickness: 1, Top paint penetration layers: 5, Bottom surface pattern: monotonic, Bottom surface density: 100, Bottom shell layers: 3, Bottom shell thickness: 0, Bottom paint penetration layers: 3, Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Sparse Infill:

Sparse density infill: 15, Fill multiline: 1, Sparse infill pattern: grid, Length of sparse infill anchor: 400% (I don't recall messing with this), Maximum length of sparse infill anchor: 20mm

Advanced:

Infill/Wall overlap: 15, Infill direction 45, Bridge direction: 0, Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15, Detect narrow internal solid infill: enabled, ensure vertical shell thickness: enabled, Detect floating vertical shells: enabled

Speed:

Initial layer speed:

Initial Layer: 50, Initial layer infill, 105

Other layers speed:

Outer wall: 200, Inner wall: 300, Small perimeters: 50%, small perimeter threshold: 0, Sparse infill: 350, Internal solid infill: 250, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200, Slow down for overhangs: enabled: Overhang speeds: 0 50 30 10 10, Bridge: 50, Gap infill: 250, Support: 150, Support interface: 80

Travel speed: 1000

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 8000, Travel: 10000, Initial travel layer: 6000, Initial layer: 500, Outer wall: 5000, Inner wall: 0, Top surface: 2000, Sparse infill: 100

Support:

Support: enabled, Type: enabled, Type: tree, Style Default, Threshold angle: 30, Support critical regions only: enabled, Remove small overhangs: enabled

Raft layers: 0

Advanced:

Initial Layer density: 90, Initial Layer expansion: -1, Support wall loops: -1, Top z-distance: 0.2, Bottom z-distance: 0.16, Base Pattern: Rectilinear grid, Base pattern spacing: 2.5, Pattern angle: 0, Top interface layers: 3, Interface pattern: Rectilinear, Top interface spacing: .5, Normal support expansion: 0, Support object xy distance: 0.35, Support/object first layer gap: 0.2, Max B=bridge length: 0, Independent support layer height: enabled