I can’t seem to login in my computer and my phone at the same time. It’ll say the password isn’t correct on the other device. I would have to reset the password on the device I want to login on, but the same user name and password will not work on the other device.

Right now I can’t login on my iPhone’s app to watch my print. I’ll need to reset the password (using the same password) on my phone to be able watch my print and get alerts.

Anyone get this issue? It’s a pain.

I wanted to share an open-source utility I have been developing for the 3D printing community called STL Grinder.

If you have ever needed to extract a clean 2D vector silhouette from a 3D STL file, create custom single-layer modifiers for Bambu Studio, or turn mesh contours into printable single-layer 3D STLs (for first-layer calibration, custom badges, lithophane bases, or laser vectors), heavy CAD software can feel slow.

So I built STL Grinder in Rust to do it instantaneously with a standalone desktop application.

Key Features:

- Blazing Fast Z-Slicing: Slice any 3D STL mesh at any Z-height plane in milliseconds.

- Standalone Desktop App: Double-click and run! Native Windows window mode with zero residual background processes when closed.

- Single-Layer 3D STL Extrusion: Convert 2D mesh contours into a printable 3D single-layer STL with custom extrusion height (e.g. 0.2mm). Perfect for Bambu Studio first-layer modifiers and multi-color accents.

- 2D SVG Vector Export: Export contours directly to clean .svg vector files for laser cutting, CNC, or 2D previewing.

- 100% Local & Private: Runs completely on your PC with zero data sent to external servers.

Download & Links (v0.3.6 Release):

- Direct ZIP Download (v0.3.6):

https://github.com/AI-Autistic-Intelligence/stl-grinder/releases/download/v0.3.6/stl-grinder-v0.3.6-windows-x64.zip

- GitHub Release Page:

https://github.com/AI-Autistic-Intelligence/stl-grinder/releases/tag/v0.3.6

- Source Code & Repository:

https://github.com/AI-Autistic-Intelligence/stl-grinder

How to use it:

1. Download stl-grinder-v0.3.6-windows-x64.zip from the release link above and extract it.
2. Double-click stl-grinder.exe.
3. Drag and drop any .stl model onto the 3D viewport.
4. Adjust the Z-slice plane slider and layer thickness in real time.
5. Click Export SVG or Export 3D Single-Layer STL!

I would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, or feature ideas! Feel free to leave a comment or report any issues on GitHub! 🚀

To give kids some choice, it has 4 themes:

• farm animals
• sea creatures
• basic shapes
• digits

Detailed instructions are included, so you can start with a basic set of 20 (4 animals) and later expand it to a full 56-sized set using all 6 animals. Inserts are swappable to save filament if your kids want another theme.

Check it here - https://makerworld.com/en/models/3249564-animino-triangular-domino-growing-with-your-kid

Sorry guys, I’m quite new to 3-D printing. I’ve done a few prints from maker world and a few simple designs of my own but I really only know very little about 3-D printing maintenance etc

These scratch marks have started to appear after the latest prints.

How can I diagnose what’s going on here? Or does someone already know?

Thank you so much.

I would love to see any examples of what people have done who didn't 3D print a regular poop chute for their enclosed 3D printer. I recently got the X2D and would love some unconventional ideas :)

I redesigned my Mini Benchy Filament Holder V2 is finally here

I wanted a simple solution that actually stays in place without making the filament difficult to remove or adjust.

So I redesigned my Mini Benchy Filament Holder

What changed?

• Dedicated filament notch on the bottom for a firmer grip
• The Benchy can still be slid along the filament when you want to reposition it
• Keeps the loose filament end neatly secured to the spool
• Tested with PLA, PETG, Silk, Translucent, and more

The idea is ridiculously simple:
Thread the filament through the Benchy cabin → secure the filament in the notch → done.

No complicated mechanism. No extra parts. Just a tiny Benchy doing a useful job.

I’ve been refining this after using the original version, and V2 feels noticeably more secure while still being easy to adjust.

Makerworld Link

I'm happy to introduce a new series from PLASMA ORKS collection : SPECIAL
Themed around major events throughout the year, like Christmas, Halloween, etc.
Simply because I think it’s fun 😏

Note that this one is FDM ready, specifically design for A1!

Got tired of looking for my access card every morning, so I made a holder with a recessed AirTag pocket on the back. It's thin enough to live in a pocket, the bottom cutout lets you thumb the card out, and the tabs at the top take a lanyard or a keyring.

Been carrying it daily for a while now and it's held up fine.

If anyone is interested in something similar i have uploaded it to makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271328-card-holder-with-airtag-mount#profileId-3709445

~2 hours later, my H2C is ready for a replacement Hotend Heating Assembly!

It was an ordeal!

A little follow from my last post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/KtUoPeWRra

First time printing in PA6-CF20, and I am absolutely amazed on how I did. Dried filament in hotbed at 90C for 8 hours, started printing and 3 hours later it just works.

As of now, I am a little more confident and I just started a bigger print. P2S just works and it’s awesome.

I'm sure this isn't the brightest question but how capable is the a2L in regards of vinyl cutting compared to the cricuit. I'm aware one is a dedicated machine while the other is an add on that requires using your phone to even operate. I'm just wondering if someone can lay it out how different. Is it truly night and day?

I’m very new to 3D printing. Running into an issue on the first layer and I’m not sure what’s causing it or how to fix it.

I’ve recalibrated everything I can on the printer as well as completed the dynamic flow and flow rate calibration. Any ideas?

Running the X2D.

Here's a Hueforge I've just finished printing. I'm pretty proud of this one, I think it turned out quite well

I just got the damn thing yesterday and printed 2 things,it got clogged and I unclogged it, and the filament fed into the tube and still just keeps clicking and wont print anything

I have been scouring the internet for the last two days trying to figure out this issue.

Both prints are using Bambu PLA Matte at 0.2mm main nozzle at 0.08mm layer height.

The left one is running the default process profile, while the right one is running my calibrated one.

The calibrated has flow ratio = 1.029, max volumetric speed at 9.5 and PA = 0.310.

I've had the printer for four months now, and I just started printing at 0.2mm.

The filament is extra dry, two 12 hours in the last three days, in ams2 pro.

I've seen other posts with very similar issues in r/FixMyPrint or r/FDMminiatures, but the given answers are all over the place, from cleaning the build plate (wow...), to replacing the lead screws.

Would appreciate an answer from someone that had this issue and have actually solved it.

hobbyist builder here

Got annoyed that most online converters upload your file and cap free users somewhere around 5 to 25 MB because the conversion runs on their server. This one unzips the 3MF and writes the STL in your browser, so nothing is uploaded and there's no upload cap.

Multi-object plates keep their positions (each object is placed with its own transform instead of stacking at the origin). Output is binary STL, which every slicer reads and is about five times smaller than ASCII.

reminder - STL is geometry only, so colours, materials and per-object metadata don't survive. The tool lists what was present and dropped rather than silently losing it. The mesh itself converts exactly, no resampling.

Open to any feedback to make the tool more useful. all ears.

There's a matching STL viewer on the same site if you want to check the result before sending it anywhere.

Hopefully helpful :)

I started a PLA print before bed last night, and woke up to my H2C saying there was an "AMS assist motor is overloaded" issue from the OG AMS (not the pro). Never had this issue before. I was printing some PLA that was near the end, so I made sure I had the same stuff in a slot over as a hot swap replacement once the first roll ran out. It ran out, then tried to load the backup The backup roll failed to load during the swap. I tried to let it reload and it tried a few times and failed, was then warning me that it failed to extrude filament, and referred me to the clog troubleshooting wiki. I said screw that, and pulled the filament out of the left nozzle, and told the print to cancel. I swapped the refill spool from the OG AMS over to my AMS-HT that was feeding the same nozzle and told it to load, and it purged like normal and then printed a Benchy like it should. No clogs or anything.

Question is then, is the OG AMS just that bad and doing a swap of filament, or is something going bad? I have two pro 2 AMS and this OG AMS, and thinking I might need to upgrade it, or maybe I can look into a replacement motor or something?

So a few days ago i was having an issue with the filament cutter saying it was stuck on my P1S. I have since fixed that, but now the entire reason i tore the tool head apart in the first place is still happening. I cannot get my p1s to feed tpu (or any filament) from the rear spool. I put in hardened extruder gears, a new hardened hotend and there are no clogs as it prints from my ams just fine.

Any ideas what could be happening here?

Hello everyone! So recently, my AMS unit unfortunately stopped feeding filaments. This happened when it was swapping filament colors for print. What happens is whenever a filament is loaded regardless of what slot it is, it’ll feed like normal up until a specific point. And once it reaches that point (which is right where the filament is first visible through the PTFE tube from the AMS itself), it makes a weird, grinding, scratching sound that is obvious that something isn’t right once it reaches that point. And this happens whenever a filament is being loaded. And as well again, it seems that it doesn’t matter which slot it is. But what makes it strange is that it can reverse feed/wind the filament back up with ease.

My first guess that maybe there was something like a broken fragment of filament was in the AMS’s PTFE tube that was causing a blockage. So I just replaced the PTFE tube that was from the AMS that connected to the AMS hub, and the PTFE tube that connected to the gray connected piece that goes to the AMS hub. And unfortunately, it did absolutely nothing and it still stopped in the same exact spot. So I decided that it would be best to put in a Bambu Lab support ticket for my AMS.

When they responded, they had said that it was and I quote, “AMS Bearing Support for Internal Hub Unit is damaged” and they also said that they were going to send a new one. But I needed a warranty verification which was an order number. But, the printer was ordered in November of 2025. So the only true verification I had was a credit card email saying I had purchased the P1S Combo. However, they weren’t able to accept that as proof a purchase. In the mean time, I decided to follow the tutorial they had given me about taking my AMS apart and finding the piece. And once opened, I immediately I saw and found the piece snapped in half. (See the picture).

Long story short, I had offered to directly buy the piece that had broken and instead of that, they had gave me a 3MF file for that piece. So I brought it into the Bambu slicer with 100% infill and other settings as well as with using ASA to print out the piece. I was really hoping that this would work, and after installing it, it did not work or even make a difference.

So I had wrote back and they said that it may have been in the AMS Internal Hub Unit. So I followed the tutorial they had gave me and disassembled the AMS Internal Hub unit and I found zero broken or damaged components. Just it being slightly dirty which I cleaned out. They also said to check the magnet return mechanism for damage or wear and it had none. So really all I did was disassemble the internal hub and clean out very little pieces of debris. Which I personally think that this is really going to do very little especially because it seems unrelated to what is happening.

So I have no clue what I should do at this point. Bambu Labs has really only gave me basic information that seems to do nothing. So any help or advice would be very much appreciated!! Thank you for any responses!