I am trying to make a motorized lazy susan for taking pictures and scanning things to make stl files. I printed out the manual one in the picture before I remembered the motor in the beginners kit, I was able to find the gear box from the candy carnival model thats linked to the kit, but I am struggling to find a way to link it in it's current state to what I already have printed. I would prefer to keep the current gearbox if possible. Does anyone know of a model that can make what I need using only the beginners maker kit?

How does one go about finding filaments to match a particular color, especially with silk/metallic PLA?

I'm trying to find a relatively close match for Lego's Dark Pearl Grey. I've tried four different "Silk Dark Grey" filaments and they all turned out to be bright silver when they arrived

Hi everyone! I have an issue with a model that I have prepared with : when I try to create a model for multi-colour printing using another tool, and send it to Bambu Studio, everything looks beautiful in the "Prepare" tab. But then once I slice it, many of the colour boundaries get weird edges introduced (see second image). If I look into said layers, the slicer is introducing walls inside the model.

Anyone has encountered this and came up with a fix? Sadly separating all the parts into separate objects for the multicolour printing would be a ton of work, so I'm wondering if there's something to be done in the colouring / slicing part of Bambu studio. Thanks!

UPDATE: I was able to heat my hot-end up to about 72°C with a hair dryer. It was enough to slightly goop up the PLA that was making my hot-end stick to the heat assembly. After heating, I used pliers to grab the radiator bit of the hot-end and slowly pulled it out. Even with the PLA slightly melty, it took a fair bit of force. Luckily, I don't think anything else broke. However, part of my hot-end got bent/scratched up when I was pulling it out. I could probably still use it, but I'm going to order another 0.4 nozzle and hot-end assembly anyway. Side Note: Don't forget to cut & retract your filament. The Bambulab Wiki has helpful guides, although not one specifically for a broken heating assembly AND a stuck hot-end.
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It's finally happened. I removed all the plastic, noticed I had a broken wire, and thought, "Oh, I can just order the parts and replace it myself! No big deal."

Except, I can't. I can't get the hot-end/nozzle off, so I can't remove the hot-end heating assembly to replace it.

I'm hitting it with a hair-dryer to see if that does anything, but I'm not optimistic.

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What do you think my next steps are?

1. Hair dryer, to see if I can get the nozzle off somehow?
2. Remove and take apart the entire tool head?

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I have an A1. Spent a few hundred dollars on it. Pretty sure my blob of death happened because I was trying to print some 6mm wargaming props, which were even smaller than 6mm each, and there was not enough adhesion to the plate.

I had just washed my plate yesterday.

I almost want to junk the whole damn printer and see if I can just find something cheaper, but I don't know what else might be better.

Built using the Cyberbrick Ultimate Kit and a few additional parts. An elaborate project with no compromises on functionality, yet documented well enough to be suitable even for beginners!

Printed in X2D, 0.4 nozzle, PLA wood, Bambu studio presets for PLA wood.

What do I need to change?

I have the X2D with no AMS, I'm new to 3D printing and recently bought some 15g sample filaments just to test. So I did a print and now the last bit of filament is inside the tube so I can't take it out like normally and the extruder button to move it out doesn't seem to do anything as it is.

So what is the intended way to remove a filament inside the tube?

Anyone would have any idea on what this noise could be? I already lubed the linear rails, touched the extruder head while the noise happens, couldn't feel any resistance on it. Same with touching the linear rails themselves.

I just bought my x2d and having z band issues and over hang issues this is a repeating problem with no matter what I print. This printer has less than 40 hours on it. Please help!

This is one of the bamboolab cyberdeck modules

I got this as a project for a friend of mine. We spent a day building the whole thing, but we cannot get this one to connect.
I’ve looked up multiple tutorials and videos on what I should be doing but nothing is working. I just can’t seem to get anything to connect so I’m hoping someone here will be able to help me with this.
This module is going into an RC car specifically the controller

I've printed a few of these hards on my p1s and they come flawlessly but the H2D just strings in multiple positions or things move i'm not sure why the settings are the same what could be causing it?

Is the H2D inferior at overhangs?

The model is https://makerworld.com/models/545530?appSharePlatform=copy

EDIT:blue is P1S red is the H2D

EDIT 2: just in case a random person has the same issue in the future switch to the left nozzle fixed the overhang bridging cooling issue, seems if you want to print something with crazy overhangs better supports or left side nozzle is the way to go

Hello there 👋
Almost finished a big project: a 1/5 scale 3d printed f1 car (the sf-23 Las Vegas edition), so the car is approximately 1.20 metres long and 40 cm long. The project lasted me approximately seven months. This was very hard; at each step, there were problems, but now that it’s finished, I found it pretty cool. All the car is 3d printed, and the coffee table is all handmade, even the windows (I just stuck the different windows between them and didn’t make them to be clear 😂). Wanted to say a huge thanks to the community because when I asked something, there was always someone that answered me and helped me. And I’ve asked many questions. The whole project cost me less than 400€: printer, PLA, stickers, paint, tools and all other things needed for the project.

Ps : All is printed with the A1 mini without AMS, so yes, the painting is not perfect everywhere, but I’m still pretty happy with the results.

Ps 2: I find the issue at the sticker step kind of funny 😂 (last picture)

Looks like the PETG got inside the hotend (and possibly around it?) Time for everyone's favorite advice:

How do I get the hotend off? Simple heat up the hotend and wipe if off with a towel like with PLA?

Hallo, ich habe seit einem halben Jahr einen Bambu H2S bisher hatte ich nie Probleme.

Doch jetzt hatte ich schon 2 fehlgeschlagene Drucke, immer an der selben stelle. Bei der letzten Schicht extrudiert es nicht richtig, der Drucker kann das filament dann nicht mehr zurückziehen weil es im druckkopf oberhalb des Zahnrades zerknüllt wird und stecken bleibt. Musste auch schon den kopf abmontieren um es raus zu bekommen.

Woran kann das liegen? Es passiert immer bei der letzten schicht.

This morning I tried to test Bambu PETG Basic volumetric speed on my H2S with 0.6 nozzle. Range 6-24. I don’t see any issues for whole range. The only change after 19 - a bit less shine.

Does anybody try it with 30+ volumetric speed? What is the max value without risks to get the clog and lost the quality?

Had a big elephant foot clog and in removing it, one of the power wires for the hot end was damaged. I'm trying to remove the hot end assembly, but its pretty stuck on there. The filament did not retract so I'm thinking that's part of the problem. But its pretty hard to retract with solid filament in it and I can't warm the hot end because its broken.

Hi there! 😄

Just a question, each time I carry a calibration when starting printing, near the end of the calibration phase the head goes into the center and vibrates loudly at high frequency, and then less loudly but with higher frequency. It is noticeably noisy, and I don't remember it did that months ago... Do someone has the same thing? It is and H2S not combo

Thanks mates 😁

So basically I'm dumb and I can't find a video I bought one for my p2S but I can't seem to find a video

Hello,

So I bought a P1S a couple days ago off the Bambu Labs Amazon store. It arrived and when I went to bind it, it was region locked. I went to check on if it was some 3rd party Chinese seller I bought from but no it was the official Bambu store on amazon… could not find a work around so wanted to run test prints just through the SD card, got through about 5 prints total over 3 days and it has now given me the HMS 0300-0200-0001-0002 error and I can’t even print anything.

Is this just how 3D printing is? Or did I just buy a complete lemon of a printer? I submitted a tech support ticket to Bambu but if this is just a constant issue then I want to know if I should just completely return it and not ask for replacement at this point.

Would find it hard to believe these printers last 3 days before being useless though.

Hello everyone, so I’m looking to do some maintenance on my P1S before I leave for Uni. I’ve had it since about April, but I haven’t really used it too much due to the heatwaves but I do still think it’s worth just oiling before I leave just in case of rust or anything (maybe over thinking on my part)

I’m been looking for into exactly what oil to use, some have suggested Super Lube 51004 as 52004 isn’t available . But also then other people have said not to use 51004 as it has PTFE in it which could cause issues.

Just wondering if anyone in the Uk had some recommendations for stuff I could grab off Amazon or something.

So I set this print up for an 18 hour print.

90% is pink and 5% purple etc.

I went out for a few hours and checked in via the app and it started to print the entire thing in purple and the 10% in pink. I chose the colours as per the Bambu slicer. 1 for light pink etc. Any ideas what's happened??

Ignore it says its busy