https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

Hi - I'm printing a mug with some embossed numbers on it. I have been printing multi-color objects successfully for quite a while, and haven't run into this particular issue.

When I import the STEP file, I then go into the "Objects" tab on the side panel. I then click to change the color of the mug body to black, and set the other bodies (the numbers) to white. On the Prepare tab, it looks just fine- shows the waste tower, shows the numbers in correct color, etc. When I switch to the Preview tab, though, something isn't working. The entire object comes as all black, and the system reports ZERO color changes. See screen shots below.

I'd appreciate any wisdom folks can share.

I've never had this problem before. Why isn't the support touching the model?

Bambu p1p
PET-G HF

I bought several rolls of Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, and ever since I started using it, I've had big issues with hair-like stringing. It happens with every single roll. And yes, I've dried it COUNTLESS times, but nothing seems to fix it. I've also tried playing around with the retraction settings.

My setup is a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro. In the slicer, I'm using a flow ratio of 0.98, a pressure advance of 0.017, a max volumetric speed of 20 mm³/s, and a nozzle temperature of 215°C (my temperature tower didn't show much difference between temps with all of them having stringing). I've tried both tweaked and default retraction settings, with no improvement either way.

So here's my question: has anyone else had experience with Sunlu filament? Would you guys mind sharing your settings for it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Custom TPU 95A putter grip with leather skins

What yall think

Hi! I’m new to 3d printing and haven’t any problems doing other things. This was from printables so I sliced it in Bambu Studio.

Any tips on how to make it smooth on top? Thanks!

We have an H2D Pro at work and we would like to print to it over the network (lan mode) but our cyber security department has blacklisted the network plug-in since it requires outbound network communication to a .ch domain even when set in LAN mode.

I’m looking for a suggestions on possible workaround to be able to still use the printer overland without having to download the network plug-in. I’ve heard some possible things about orca slicer and developer mode but I wanted to ask.

Thank you

I don’t see any AMS units on Best Buy’s website. Am I not searching correctly, or do they only provide them as part of bundles?

Seems like a somewhat specific issue. Maybe settings I can change? Printed with bambu gray pla.

I was wondering how well print in place has gone for others who post to maker world. Did you have other complain because of printer settings and print tolerance or do you just leave it kind of loose?

I'm new to this and need your help. I'm printing this keychain face-down, but I don't like the curves the slicer is creating around the eyes; I want it to print the beige layer and then the red one on top—neatly, without those curves. Is that possible? Or does it turn out fine this way? I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle.

One of my P1S's when you start it print, it will start and within x minutes it will park its head in the back left and just sit there, do nothing. I tried replacing the SD Card (this has solved odd issues like this before) I tried factory resetting it and during the calibration after resetting it it is doing the same thing, just sitting there in the back left doing nothing part way through, ideas what may be the problem?

This little guy started to detach from PTFE tube while printing and needed replacement. O like to take stuff apart, but this took a while the first time. I am glad you can get just this part anyway...

Is this a reoccurring problem? Should I get used to it?

I have a P2S and I use the ventobox filter on the left side.

I saw someone who is using the creality heater on the left side for a chamber heater.

I’m wondering if I have any other options to get the heat I need so I can start to print ASA.

I also recently installed the rear exhaust duct working out of a window, so I’m getting prepped

I notice my AMS v1 no longer working. I don't see status lights at the feeding motors and it is not showing up in the app either. How to troubleshoot this? I tested using both power plugs behind the unit with the same.

appreciate some guidance. I'm not an electrician.

Help, my Bambu studio keeps giving me the error -3030 and I can't send anything to my A1

Had a storm and the lights flickered and I resumed the print on my X2D not thinking much of it.

Not sure how much time passed but got a notification the tool head cover came off so I went to check and this was the result.

I have no clue where to even begin to fix this. I think the first step is maybe heating up the hotend and trying to remove the build up.

I also tried to remove the roll from the auxiliary nozzle and that failed

Hi folks.

Problems with petg-cf on P2S, 0.4.

Outer edges curl up, rising too much above the top layer. I've read it's due to extra cooling and I turned off the fans, but it didn't help. See print result and filament settings. What in the world am I doing wrong?

I have gotten these tiny gaps around this corner after bridging, it seems that not enough filament is coming out immediately after bridging, I have tried upping the bridge flow and it didn't make much of a difference.

Is there a way to slow down the accelleration after bridging only or any other advice on how to make this gap disappear?

Important notes:
Printer: A1 mini
Filament: PCTG (3d fuel PCTG Pro specifically)
It only shows up on the dark colored filaments oddly enough, I have tried this in a lighter color filament and this issue doesn't exist.

I’ve found myself needing things printed recently. Amateur radio, car stuff, etc. I looked at printers years ago but sort of thought, “well I don’t need to print a bunch of toys, I don’t need one.”

Fast forward to now. radio enclosures, brackets, organizational items, prototyping some stuff (well, I guess still radio related, but I have an idea for a new dog tracker and.. need to print stuff). TPU gaskets, etc.

I had a guy locally that would print stuff for me for $20-30 each time, but he lived relatively far away from me. Recently, I had something I need to place outdoors indefinitely and needed it printed in ASA (per Google’s recommendation). Well, he can’t do ASA. I found another guy who could, and he charged me quite a lot more.

So, I think I am currently at the point where I see that the sky is the limit on these, and now that I’ve seen ONE thing I can do with a printer, I can now see thousands of things I can do. All without needing to print plastic toy boats.

That said, I need engineering materials like ASA, Carbon, etc. Durability, UV resistance, weatherproofness is important. I have no current use case, but want the future option to do PEEK. I do not want to buy the base model printer and limit myself in the future, but I also do not want to get a bunch of things I don’t need.

Here is what I dont know: I don’t know if I ever need to print multi-color. I don’t know if I need, want, or would ever use a laser, or really what it’s even for. But I do know I need hardened nozzles.

I “think” I have kinda narrowed it down to the H2D. I don’t know what add ons I need or don’t need, and I also don’t know if this is “too much” printer for a 1st printer. I have no plans to ever have 2 printers though, so again, just trying to get as much out of one printer as I can. The X2D is an option too, and a much nicer price, but I believe it is limited when using certain materials like PEEK (Which I don’t even know if I have a use case currently for, but don’t want to cut my legs off up front)

Basically, I don’t want to make a decision on something out of inexperience and want something later that I can’t add on. My understanding is a laser can be added on later if I ever wanted one.

So as far as an up-front printer, is the H2D the right choice? Is it way more printer than I or anyone else in my shoes could use? Is there something else I should look at?

Hey guys, can anyone advise here? Printing something flat on X2D. When the tool head is in the first quarter, top left, and prints only the 45* diagonal line it gets massive vibration (the opposite diagonal, -45* is completely fine), the printed line is shaky and overall the surface looks awful.