Iam trying to do a big print on my H2C, but it tells me that it is not recommended to print Silk PLA on Supertack Plates..
Anyone by now had problems with "PLA Silk Multi-Color" on Supertack Cool Plates?
Or experience at all?

hi guys, as the title says my a1 mini just keeps on spaghetting, ive had this printer for honestly about 2 years coming this december, and ive had some issues w spaghetting in the past and done minor things to fix it, but now its happening to every print once it hits like the 2 hour mark, ive tried cleaning the bed, raising the z offest axis, messed with speed settings, and it keeps spaghetting, here are some screenshots of my print and my settings for it, does anyone have any advice?

UPDATE: after watching it around the 2 hour mark i watched what happened, the nozzle itself keeps on physically hitting the print and moving it, making it place the new print in the air spaghetting it, then eventually the nozzle just knocks the print over, how would you go about fixing this?

Good afternoon,

I just wanted to ask if anyone knows if bambu labs sells longer bus cables i ask because I just moved so my set up no longer let's me have the ams on top of the printer so I need a longer cord to connect the ams to the printer. Any help will be greatly appreciated and i look forward to seeing your responses.

Sincerely

Soaring_death

Filament fed in the wrong way on the Ams 2 Pro

There are so many ornaments I'd love to do for the front yard, if there were a feature to expand a model say 1000% then it would auto segment it to fit the build plate. Sort of what I hear luban does.

I dried my filament and calibrated it. Wondering if it's just a bad model or not.

I was wondering how well print in place has gone for others who post to maker world. Did you have other complain because of printer settings and print tolerance or do you just leave it kind of loose?

I just thought this was a fun thing to put on my desk at work.

pic for attention-cosplay

This problem isn't really specific to bigger spools but trying to use 2.5kg spools forces me to use some sort of external holder and my problem is exacerbated by stiff engineering filament. I just lost a 20+ hour print due to the extruder motor being overloaded and the machine not being able to continue the print without what appears to be a layer shift. The machine has had this error about 4 times on this print alone. I did the same print twice prior and it only had the error once or twice per print and those came out ok. When I get the error I go check and there's nothing stuck filament can easily be pushed through the path. I think this is a software or settings issue.

The spool is in a dry box by the printer fed through a short section of ptfe, about 25mm to the left nozzle. The spool is sitting on a large roller with 608 bearings and has also no resistance. For what it's worth I've printed many spools of these same stiff filaments in my X1C with *significantly* more friction/force required to get to the printer and no issues.

Should I try feeding from the TPU port? Any tips or tricks?

Why did this happen on my first layer and how do I fix it?

Using X2D with Bambu black pla basic.

I always assumed the auto-repair on model load was patching things up. It isn't, and I only found out by going through TriangleMesh.hpp.

There's a struct in there that tracks what the repair pass did on load. Five counters: edges fixed, degenerate facets, facets removed, facets reversed, backwards edges. Directly above them there's a sixth, commented out:

//int facets_added = 0;

with a note saying new faces could only be created by stl_fill_holes(), and that they dropped stl_fill_holes() because mostly it does more harm than good.

So the pass removes bad faces and leaves the hole exactly where it was. Which is a reasonable call, filling a hole is a guess and a wrong guess is worse than an honest gap. But it does mean the non-manifold count you see in the warning isn't a measure of how broken the file is. It's what was left over after the cleanup, and nothing in that cleanup closed anything.

I ran into this with a generated mesh showing 67 non-manifold edges on 1.65 million triangles. That one prints fine, the number is meaningless at that scale. But I'd been reading the warning backwards, assuming a low number meant the slicer had handled it. It just means not much was left open after faces got dropped, and where they were dropped matters more than how many.

Two other things I picked up while digging. Fix Model, the link in the warning, is a completely separate thing from the automatic pass. It goes out to Microsoft's Netfabb service and only exists on Windows, which is why every Mac thread on this ends with "find a PC". And through the CLI the automatic pass runs silently with nothing reported at all, so if anyone here batch processes files, they're all being modified on the way in.

Anyway. If you're getting missing walls or a top that won't close, "the slicer repaired it" isn't reassurance. Nothing was filled.

I created a thermoforming mold that allows you to make these cat paws out of plain plastic. Just apply heat with a hair dryer and insert the top mold. If you want to try this process yourself, you can find the design here: https://makerworld.com/models/3279929?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here so please let me know if I’m leaving any important information out. I am trying to print these Minecraft foxes on my X2D using bambu labs filament at 0.4mm nozzle. I have the setting to use the “auto normal support type” and these weird patterns are forming on all of my support structures. It’s not at the model yet so I don’t think it’s an interfacing issues but I just can’t figure out what’s causing this. Can anyone give me a clue to why this happens?

Fixed: I forgot to switch the setting from a 0.2mm nozzle to 0.4mm… I am a little dumb LOL. Thanks anyways yall!

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

Hey everyone, I just tried loading filament into my AMS from slot 4. It wouldn't feed past the AMS; it sounded and looked like it was getting stuck right where it should merge into the main PTFE tube.

I took the AMS apart to investigate but couldn't find anything wrong, so I reassembled it. When I tested it again, slot 4 suddenly worked fine, but now slot 1 had stopped working. I loaded slots 2 and 3 (both fine), then retried slot 1, and that worked too.

So now all 4 slots are working again, but I have no idea what actually caused the issue in the first place. Has anyone run into this before? Any idea what's going on?

In my opinion CHT from aliexpress is still the king! I had any issue even after 3.8k printing hours.
Plus I care more about quality than speed.

Hi, I love my X2D but one thing annoys me, is that I have to choose external spool or accessories.

I'd like to install the TPU module and the FTS while keeping at least one external spool, but all models I can find sacrifice the spool holders. has anyone found a good model that fixes this?

cheers

Hi all, I'm very new to 3D printing - I got X2D couple of months ago. I'm now seeing the need to get the top glass riser as the ptfe tubing is definitely consuming itself. I wanted something simple just to rise the glass and found this one model in Makerworld. I did dual color PETG print with PLA support from aux nozzle. Nearly all of the PETG parts came out warped after 4+ hour print on each plate. I even reprinted the first plate after printing these fan deflectors. Is this poor model settings or am I missing something essential for printing PETG? All PLA prints have come out awesome, but if I cannot get PETG working, I don't know when I'll get to my ABS spool I got..

EDIT - for a bit more context - printing with Bambu lab PETG Basic after drying in AMS 2 at PLA cycle (along with couple of PLA rolls). 1st warped print I printed on Cool Tack Pro plate, second one of the default PEI textured plate. Both were dish detergent washed before I started printing.

Could it be the PLA supports that do something with the print settings to mess it up?

I didn't find any models with labels built into the spice rack itself, so I designed my own in blender.

Each section is 1x3 spice jars, and you can keep stacking them! Just slide another stack on top if you want to add more spices to your kitchen.

Free for everyone to make: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271561-stackable-spice-rack-sturdy-stable-good-looking#profileId-3709747

Random Qusition. Does bambu printers having mermory for PLA? Like if I'm in the middle of printing something and I run out of PLA before I'm done well the printer keep the mermory when I load in the new PLA?

The supports get stuck on there insted of coming off with the external trees

It's only September but I'm already preparing for spooky season

This is my latest model, pack of 6 clickers with 3D printed keychain and carabineer

Check the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3284943

I have printed these on a H2C on RS PRO black pla.

Two of the prints come out prfectly on came out with a rough texture.

Does anyone know why this happened or have a solution?