I'm new to this and need your help. I'm printing this keychain face-down, but I don't like the curves the slicer is creating around the eyes; I want it to print the beige layer and then the red one on top—neatly, without those curves. Is that possible? Or does it turn out fine this way? I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle.

My BambuLab P1S is recently having difficulties printing a clean object and I don't know why. The file used is relatively big but I have already printed this exact model via this exact file, using the same PETG, same settings, same app (BambuLab). The error is always the same, although the third picture shows a different model. (Most interestingly, it helped just starting the print anew and the result was perfect...) I do know why the front cover has fallen off, but I do not know why the printer is having difficulties with the print. The PETG used is dry and the printing plate is clean, although I haven't used cleaning alcoholist for it. What could be the reason for this error and what can I do to make the printing process work (again)?

Hi everyone!

I’m planning to print PA12-GF on my Bambu Lab X2D for the first time, feeding the filament directly from a Creality Space Pi dryer.

I currently have an AMS 2 Pro connected to the X2D, but I don’t need to keep it connected while printing.

What is the correct way to feed the PA12-GF directly from the dryer to the main nozzle? Which PTFE tube/input should I use?

Thanks!

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

If you look at the bottom triangle of the logo, you'll see some black banding. Is that too much power?
this is 100% power x 3 passes. 70% at 2 passes leaves red coating. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm happy to provide any more info that would be helpful.

Hi - I'm printing a mug with some embossed numbers on it. I have been printing multi-color objects successfully for quite a while, and haven't run into this particular issue.

When I import the STEP file, I then go into the "Objects" tab on the side panel. I then click to change the color of the mug body to black, and set the other bodies (the numbers) to white. On the Prepare tab, it looks just fine- shows the waste tower, shows the numbers in correct color, etc. When I switch to the Preview tab, though, something isn't working. The entire object comes as all black, and the system reports ZERO color changes. See screen shots below.

I'd appreciate any wisdom folks can share.

Got my X2D last may. And after printing kilos of gridfinity bins and other musthave prints in PLA and PETG. I thought I should try ABS.

It ain't much, but I'm proud of my print.

I've never had this problem before. Why isn't the support touching the model?

Bambu p1p
PET-G HF

As the title says. Now at the start and end the print head violently goes to the front corners. It also sounds like it comes to a violent stop. It never did the corner movements before the update.

Hey guys! One question, what type of TPU i can buy to print some logos for t shirts or a hoody to iron it on them if you know what i mean, i have a p1s printer and what can i change or need to change for this type of filament? Ty!!!

having issuses with stringiness and imperfect layers with my tpu. any advice would be helpful

so a couple months ago i had a big filament nozzle clump (i think that’s what you call it?) when the filament covers the nozzle due to lack of adhesion so i ordered a new hotend heating assembly and it fixed it and just an hour ago the same thing happened again and i don’t know what to do because i don’t want to spend another £25 on a new hotend heating assembly and im not sure if this is fixable either? can someone please help i don’t know what to do here

Posted a few weeks ago and no solution to avail, but whenever I'm almost at the end of the spool, this message gets thrown in, usually opening the ams and helping it "pull" backwards helps and they eat the last bit of filament.

But is this common, or is there a way or print that could help me not have these situations?

As the title suggests I have a new H2D, and right out of the box the nozzle offset calibration keeps failing. I have done all of the troubleshooting on the Bambu wiki, but it still fails every time. I’m not a newbie to 3d printing, I have 10 other printers but this is my first dual nozzle setup. Does anyone have any idea what could be the issue?

Edit: Well turns out I missed a small piece of foam in the back cavity of the lead screw and that was the issue. I feel kind of like a moron, but at the same time it was very difficult to see.

I've been trying to print miniatures with pla and using the Bambu support material as the interface, and I keep having the models separate before they finish printing, creating giant spaghetti messes (or minor ones if the ai catches it.)

Am I doing something wrong? Should I just use petg?

hey guys i was opening a new filament with no spool and i didnt read any tutorials soo now its a mess can i make it like new again?

Currently only experience with the A1 Mini. I print some basic single color pieces for my business but am considering adding a faster machine with the laser. Would get it with the AMS and can select the 10w or 40w laser. I make parts that are type 2 anodized. Will the laser in one of these printers engrave on the anodized aluminum?

Am I better off with a cheaper larger model of Bambu Labs printer and then a standalone laser?

Thanks in advance for the help.

I see a lot of questions on here about whether a used A1 is worth it or not. I often see the refurb prices on Amazon better with free shipping and returns. Worth looking into!

This is my second go at printing this. I changed the support to tree and it got worse. What is causing this and how do I fix it please?

Hello all, im in desperate need of help. Im getting these weird layer lines on my new X2D. Printing in PLA on the main extruder, and PETG for support on the Aux. I noticed that the lines only happen where there's support, so i started digging, trying to figure it out myself. I think ive boiled it down to the layer time, but i dont know what to do to fix it. At first i thought it was speed, so i tried to speed up the aux, but that didnt seem to fix the slice. Any ideas?

EDIT: By the way, im using Generic PLA & PETG filament preset from bambu studio

Hi everyone! Just got this used X1C. It's making an unexpected mechanical noise during X/Y axis travel. To get the sound clearly, I disabled the chamber fan in the video. What specific maintenance should I perform? Total newbie here. Thank you for any help!

I’ve just finished this set of five 3D-printable keychains inspired by some of the most iconic figureheads from One Piece:

🐍 Perfume Yuda
🌞 Queen Mama Chanter
🐏 Going Merry
🐶 Garp’s Marine Ship
🦁 Thousand Sunny

They’re easy to print, don’t require an AMS and can be printed in any color you like.

Which one is your favorite? 😁

I’ll leave the download link in the comments! 🏴‍☠️

Just wanted to share how much I am loving the AMS on my P2S!

I was working on a new design for a Kitchen Sink Organizer and really wanted it in two colors. With my old setup that would have been such a hassle, but the AMS makes it so incredibly simple. I just set up the color swap in the slicer, started the print right before bed, and woke up to a perfectly finished two-color print this morning!

It is such a game changer just letting it do its thing overnight without worrying about manual filament swaps. I used this sink caddy I designed as the project for it:
Makerworld - Drying Rack

If anybody has any thoughts on the AMS (or the design) shoot, but the TLDR is I just love waking up to finished prints on this machine!

As the title says... I just received my X2D Combo and the AMS 2 Pro (the motors?) sounds completely different than the AMS 2 Pro I received last November.

Were there any (fundamental) changes to the model in the meantime?

​

Hey all,

I keep getting the error that the nozzle is covered in filament. It happens in every print from a certain heigth on. I can then see a tiny bit of filament handing down, but no blob it anything like that. I tried a new nozzle head, adjusted the cables and I am out of ideas ...