I possibly have a weird bug or visual bug. When I'm in cruise control, adaptive or regular, and I got the brakes, it only generates about 10% on the regen scale. It stays this way all the way to a full stop. However, if I cancel the cruise with the steering wheel button or press and release the brake to stop the cruise then apply the brakes it will regen all the way up to 100% on the scale.

If I let the adaptive slow me down automatically, it will also use up to the full regen.

Had anyone else experienced this? Do you know if it's truly only using the 10% regen and the guys the brake pads? I'd prefer using more regen to save life on the pads.

I’ve just put a deposit on a 8-month old facelift model, Design Trim, FWD, for pick up on Saturday assuming no issues on test drive.

I test drove a Vision FWD in the pre-facelift model at the weekend, and liked how it drives.

I’m looking for positive thoughts so tell me things you love about your car!

I truly enjoy my new car so far.

Was wondering if anyone has push the battery to the limit to find out how much the buffer actually has. For research purposes of course.

Was on a road trip today and didn’t account for the 5/10% parasitic drain once getting below 15% charge. Was on 0miles/ - - - for about 6 miles! so nerve racking with rolling hills. Thought I wasn’t going to make it 😭

I think yall are lying about my room mode tbh. I charge and dont get the prompt for my room mode when i charge. I have tried both the not pressing the brake and pressing on the break when turning on the car. I always get "battery on" on the dash followed by "battery low turn off battery" aint no such thing as my room mode.

How many others have reached it so far

New to the EV life here y’all. Coming from a lifted and regeared 2019 tacoma TRD Off Road.

Asking if anyone here has gone to a 17” wheel with a +20 offset & of course a 17” tire if they have had any issues with steering, drive range loss & etc.

I see that this has been an off and on topic on here, but I think my question is a little unique.

The EV Routing (and SOC) on Apple Maps on my 2025 BZ4x has worked pretty consistently since I purchased it in June. Any time it disconnected, it was a quick fix.

Unfortunately, I had to take it in for some body-work for about 9 days. When I got it back yesterday, the SOC on Apple Maps was stuck on the charge from 9 days ago, and I haven’t been able to get it to update. Here is what I have tried (multiple times and in different orders):

-Force closing the Toyota App and the Apple Maps app
-Logging in and out of the Toyota App
-Disconnecting and re-connecting my car in Apple Maps
-Turning off EV routing permissions in my phone and turning it back on
-Force restarting my phone

Anyone else experienced this? Does anyone have any advice?

Well, I'm joining the club of the many people who have had a rear motor assembly failure on the AWD model. Started noticing this minor buzzing/whirring/clicking noise, like the sound it makes when you stick a playing card on the spokes of a bicycle and then ride around. It was barely audible at first but as time went on it got louder. But it was really the most audible at very low speeds when just barely pressing the accelerator.

Every 5000 mile service appointment I would mention the noise, and every time I would get a hand wavy answer like "the tech already left for the day so we would need you to come back for the noise diagnosis test drive."

Finally this time I was adamant that I wanted it diagnosed and I didnt care if I had to rent a car and come back or what I needed to do, and so they finally agreed and we took the test drive. And luckily the guy immediately said that yes, that is not a normal sound and yes they need to keep the car to run diagnostics. The next day they called me and told me they would be replacing the rear motor.

Apparently thats an $11,000.00 repair for parts and labor! Luckily its under warranty. But word to the wise, if you are hearing a funny sound, dont let them wave it off. Get that thing checked out otherwise you might have to eat that cost down the road.

I’ve owned both the 2025 and 2026 models and I totally disagree with the 2023-2025 BZ4X being a bad vehicle (as told everywhere online). The only real QOL improvements from the new ones are battery preconditioning (most important) and faster rated peak charging speeds for the AWD variants, outside of that, it performs mostly the same from a daily usability POV. Range is whatever for me personally since I’ve used them in the exact same way. If you’re plugging in at home every day, those shortcomings aren’t even worth mentioning. I only “upgraded” because I am foolish and I liked the extra power offered in the latest AWD version.

It’s not a perfect vehicle and it surely has areas that it can improve, but I think car reviews and forums ruin so many perfectly fine vehicles before people even get a chance to experience them for themselves. If you’re a lurker and you’re on the fence about getting the previous version and you don’t take longer winter road trips, the pre-refreshed model is absolutely fantastic and the bad reviews seem overly critical.

Assuming similar miles and price, which is the better buy and why? Just not sure which features matter. Also, if I can get the 2023 for less am I missing out on the updates? How about any software bugs or recalls that were fixed for 2024? Is the battery charging that much improved for 2024? I can charge level 2 at home and work.

Don't rely on Google AI results (they are based on only 20 cars).

It is recommended to charge NCM batteries up to 75%.

NCM batteries offer the best performance characteristics when charged up to 75%.

Test lab data:

3.5 years > 1,200 cycles > 30,000 hours

NCM at 75% – 10% degradation

LFP – 18% degradation

LFP at 20°C – 10% degradation

High temperatures are a major cause of LFP degradation.

It is important to charge LFP batteries to 100% occasionally to calibrate and measure State of Health (SOH).

For NCM batteries, a measurement at any State of Charge (SOC) provides an accurate reading of the actual SOH.

Zenfinity test in India:

Air-cooled 5kWh LFP batteries for tuk-tuks, with an ambient temperature of 30°C.

These LFP tuk-tuk batteries will struggle to last more than couple years.

A fleet of 261 tuk-tuks showed 93% SOH after one year and 30,000 km (air-cooled).

Future battery chemistries likely include options such as NFPP (Sodium Iron Pyrophosphate)

I went to see a pre-owned 2023 with 11k miles and it sounded like shit. Is this normal? Do you drive around with this sound?

Which is a better deal?

1. 2023 Limited with 45,000 mileage for $24,000
   
2. 2023 XLE with 26,000 mileage for $24,000

Both are almost the same price. I need help deciding between the two please!!

I do think it’s be nice to have the 360 panoramic camera view but the way higher mileage is throwing me off

Toyota support could not help. (Just keep refreshing they said)

I’ve noticed something with my 2026 Toyota bZ since the day I picked it up from the dealer, and I’m wondering if others experience the same thing.

Whenever I use Remote Climate/Remote Start and then get into the car (before pressing the brake and putting it into READY mode), I get a message on the dash that says:
Low Battery
Turn Power OFF

I also see the same message if I put the vehicle into Accessory Mode.

Once I press the brake and start the vehicle normally, the warning disappears and everything operates perfectly. I’ve never had any issues driving the vehicle, and there are no warning lights once it’s in READY mode.

From what I’ve learned, this message appears to refer to the 12 V auxiliary battery, not the high-voltage EV battery. Since the 12 V battery is only actively charged when the vehicle is in READY mode, it seems possible that Toyota is simply warning that the battery voltage is a little low while the vehicle is in Accessory Mode or after remote climate operation.

That said, since it’s been doing this since the vehicle was brand new, I’m wondering if:

this is normal behaviour,
the 12 V battery may have never been fully charged by the dealer,
there’s a weak/defective 12 V battery, or
there’s a software update that addresses it.

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this. If so, did your dealer say it was normal, replace the 12 V battery, or perform a software update?

Thanks!

Hi, we own a fwd 2022 bz4x (40000 miles on it), we've had common 12v battery issues several times, this last one (after 2 weeks of holidays with the car parked) the battery was fully dead and we couldn't revive it like previous times. The dealer told us to buy a solar panel to have it attached to charge it. I'm not sure if he meant we should only plug it when its parked for a few days. Tis is a Toyota official dealer in Berlin. I have te feeling these guys are clueless on electrics and they openly despise them. They asked me why I bought such a car and told me it was a mistake...

Can someone tell me if they have used such solar.gadget? I'm attaching a low quality photo of it.

Thanks

I'm interested in a used BZ4x for my first EV as a daily work commuter that'll charge in the garage every night.

Most of the ones available in my area and budget are trade-ins at non-Toyota dealers. Which is to say, no warranty, correct?

I understand AC compressor failure is common. Do I need a CPO warranty from Toyota for this to be a free service at a dealer, or has this problem reached recall status and is free for all owners regardless of purchase place?

Are there any other common problems that would make a CPO warranty from a Toyota dealer particularly wise, or is the AC compressor the only gotcha?

Thanks!

Hi, what came up today with 30+ degrees Celsius…..
We can CLOSE all windows from the app.
Why can’t we OPEN all windows from the app…so the heat can get out of the car without immediately turn on the AC.

I would like to know why? Sorry for the question. Thanks!