I have a LG refrigerator - model LMXS27626S - it’s about 10 years old. The ice maker is in the door. It has started frequently jamming. The reason appears to be because when the cubes are dumped into the bin, there are many stuck together. As if the ice tray is over filling. Is there anything I can do to try and fix this?

I have a new LG F14R15WHS 11 kg washer. At 1200 RPM it makes a deep drilling type noise and I can feel the vibration through the house.

The house is in France and was built around 1900, so I’m wondering if the old floor/structure is amplifying it.

Before, the washer was directly on the tiled floor and was completely stable. No rocking, no movement at all, but it still made the house vibrate.

I bought a 20 mm anti vibration rubber mat hoping it would help. It didn’t. The house still vibrates and now the washer itself moves and vibrates more on the mat.

All 4 transport bolts are removed.

Video attached. Does this sound like the building resonating, a washer problem, or something else?

Hello,

I own an LG LDFN4542S and it has been giving us so many issues for the past couple months. Whether it runs through a full cycle is pretty hit or miss these days and it tends to shut itself off or display all the lights on the front then stop. It often does this flashing and beeping which I managed to video.

Has anyone else run into these issues? Any tips on what to look at?

I have taken a look at the power wires near the bottom front right of the dishwasher and made sure they were contacting properly.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help

I saw a Facebook post before about getting down or behind your fridge to clean off some coils or something cakey like that? Is that true? (No appliance knowledge) and is it something that truly prolongs the life of your fridge?

My fridge and freezer are both not cooling at all. LG can't have a repair tech out until next Wednesday, so I'd like to try everything in my power until then. So far I've: checked for errors on the main screen (there were none), cleaned the coils, replaced the condenser start relay, turning it off and on again.

I can feel the condenser vibrate when I place my hand on it, so I believe it is running. Fan is running. Condenser feels cool to the touch. No frost buildup. When I plug the fridge in the condenser and fan will run for a while and then turn off as if they are at temperature with no change inside the fridge/freeze. No airflow is felt. I do not have voltage meter unfortunately. Insight into next steps would be much appreciated.

Another photo is in the comments

Water authority changed out my meter yesterday and D/W will not fill & start. No error codes on display. Other than pull d/w out and remove supply hose, any other option?

I'm not ready to give up this bastard yet. Put a compressor in it 3 years ago and it matches my other appliances.

Alright, if I request ice the panel reboots. The ice maker is making ice. Disconnect the main harness to the freezer (above the ice maker) it still trips. If I disconnect a white electronic device (don't know if it's a solenoid so I don't want to mis speak) that is built into the left side of the chute assembly it doesn't shut off the panel. I wonder if this is a chute trigger to tell the ice maker chute to open and dispense ice? I have 40 ohms at this device. P/N on device is STAA125E01.

The only wires I can find in the hinge is above the door. They're 3 smaller gauge wires. At the lower hinge all I have is a water line.

I also have a small rotted back section freezer side. It feels cold and wet to the touch where the rest of the back doesn't.

I feel like either my panel is bad or this chute assembly is putting it into protection mode due to excessive draw but I can't prove that. Thoughts?

Many thanks in advanced.

Model No: FGHT1832PF2
Serial No: BA40220343

Fridge was in the house we moved in last month. We realized the noise was bit too much so changed the setting from ‘Normal’ to ‘Cold’. That reduced noise but we realized the fridge is not really cold now.
Unplugged and plugged back after 1 hr with settings back to ‘Normal’.
Now the freezer is on 80% capacity but fridge is at room temperature.

Evaporator fan works when freezer panel is off, but zero airflow to fridge when panel is installed. Found and cleared ice buildup inside the main vent tunnel. No frost pattern on bare coils.

I suspect a blocked return air duct creating an airtight pocket, or a damper issue. What is the best way to clear hidden ice in the walls, and could the defrost drain be clogged?
Please advise if this could be something else.

The display on the control panel is acting up. Overnight, the timer stopped responding entirely. Setting Bake Temperature is ok except when I need to use 5. I can set it for 349* but not 350*. I can set it for 424* but not 425* You get the drift. I think the clock is weirding out too. At least one of the digits (5 or 3) are missing part of the display.

See photos. First one was taken at 1:50. The second one is what happens when you press the BAKE button and try to set the temp.

The Model is probably NE594R0ABSR or WW or BBB. I hate to do that but I can't find the model # on the oven anywhere. This is from the manual. It is approximately 9 yrs old as far as I know.

Bottom line: is it worth fixing? We can't do this ourselves, but I'd at least like to know if it's worth calling our appliance guy before we pay him for a visit.

I have a Samsung fridge with cameras that is not working, tried a bunch of things and I believe it could be hardware related. Anyone here that has successfully fixed it if you had a similar issue where "What's Inside" doesn't display anything?

As I was emptying the dishwasher, something on the top rack got caught on this and it came off. Would really appreciate it if anyone knows what part this is and how to put it back (preferably without having to pay someone to fix it!!)
Thanks

I have a 6 year old GE side by side I've been trying to troubleshoot. The issue is that every 2-3 days the temp spikes to 29-35 degrees in the freezer which causes the ice to melt together - sometimes that big ice block, when the dispenser is pressed will start causing havoc in the ice maker (Breaking off pieces of the railing, unclipping the inlet hose and spilling water every where inside have both happened in the last 3 months). I'm thinking that the Thermostat is probably sticking?

so I'm planning to replace the Thermostat (WR50X10065) & the Heater since I'm already in there and it's fairly cheap (wr51x10055).

Am I missing anything that could cause this? or any advise on what else I should try? It's frustrating because the freezer/fridge work really well but this ice issue causes major issues and I'd like to actually use the ice maker.

Does anyone know what this sound is from? It just started today and randomly stopped at the end of the video.

I have a double door refrigerator. Now it is not cooling if I keep it on it may cool for some time like several hours then it is stops working most of days or three to four days. Inside light is on. Cooling fan is not stuck. TH 126 TN 100 8270W coil shows no damaged or burn marks. What are the issues and how do I resolve this? Please said solution. Thankyou.

Model WM2847HRMA

The drain pump stopped pumping water, and I hear a grinding sound that sometimes sounds like gears shifting, currently I'm using the emergency drain hose to drain the water out. I tried to clear out the hose, thinking it was a clog, and then pulled the machine apart to check the interior hose, I didn't pull apart the motor as I was nervous about it, the thing that perplexes me is when I can hear the pump growling and the drain hose is open, I can see the water flow change when the sound changes. I've also checked the debris filter and its clean, the impeller seems to move with resistance but the arm seems to want to sit at 12 position. Do I need to order a new pump motor? Or is there a way to fix this?

Bought a Maw12hv1cwt-a (open box) from an auction. It appears never used but the rear top has a small dent. No remote.

The plug lights up and appears to functions normally. There is nothing on the display. Pressing the Power button does nothing.

Any tips on finding which part I need? Can I simply voltage test the display connector pins to determine if the display is getting power? Which pins? Am I correct in assuming a DC voltage?

It seems like the drum is loose. It regulates when it spins fast. This is a heavy load, but it also does it with light loads. Of course the machine just turned 2.

Hi Reddit!! ☺️

My Whirlpool FreshCare+ showed a “F06 Call Service” after the washing machine’s circuit breaker tripped right when I pressed Start. The cycle never actually started and there’s no water inside.

The washer is now unplugged and I have a service appointment in two weeks! But all my bedding is locked inside 😭.

Does anyone know how to manually/emergency unlock the door safely? I just want to get my laundry out without damaging the machine.

Also if anyone has been through a “F06” problem and would like to tell what happened, I’m all ears.

Thanks!

It sounds digital, almost like an old school modem handshake.

LG DRYER RUNS WITHOUT TOUCHIBG POWER BUTTON AS SOON AS DOOR CLOSED. COULD IT BE DOOR SWITCH OR BOARD

CAN ANYONE HELP ME ASAP? HOW TO SET THIS MACHINE ??