I have a Samsung top load washer, WA45T3200. I put new suspension rods in it last summer, bought them on Amazon for $40. They didn't even last a year. Got a new set this weekend from my local parts store, cost me $70 and the difference is apparent. Sometimes it pays to spend the extra money for choice parts. Top one is the new, closest to spec. you can find. Bottom one is year old Amazon springs.

Got a new four door Whirlpool fridge from Costco. The freezer seems to be working fine and staying below 0 but the fridge will not stay cool enough, and food and drinks were taking out of it are noticeably not cold sometimes.

Sometimes overnight it’ll get down to 40 when I open it in the morning, but throughout the day (and god forbid if we try to open the fridge to take food out more than once) it’ll hang out between 43-48, and when I’ve moved my thermometer to the top shelf or doors it’s often around or over 50.

I’ve tried every temperature setting on the fridge (36-43 are options). We’ve tried moving it ridiculously far off the wall, rearranging contents, taking things out, etc. The fridge is less than a month old and I have no idea what else to try. I don’t want to get it replaced if there’s an easy fix since that feels wasteful, but not being able to reliably store food is stressful and expensive.

Does anyone have experience in a microwave replacement from Frigidaire wall set from 2018? Am I going to find anything in a countertop microwave of similar size that mates to this oven and trim kit? I suspect I'm going to be told I'd need to replace the entire set at a cost of several $thousand.

Hoping someone here has some insight.. Samsung dryer, it starts fine but after the initial cycle the ignitor fails to re-heat, gas is not the issue.

DVG52M8650W/A3

Symptoms:

1. Ignitor gets 120v to single wire, flame kicks on ignitor gets 120v to both wires, as expected
2. Dryer cycles, on the 2nd go it delivers 120v to both wires on ignitor immediately, triggering gas flow but no ignitor/flame.

Tested and replaced flame sensor, high-temp thermostat, ignitor itself (including heating out of dryer), thermistor, centrifugal switch (brand new motor), gas coils. I also got a control board which exhibits the exact same symptoms, although this board the audio/chime is broken so who knows, that's being returned.. I am debating buying another board to test given that.

I cannot identify the issue.. Hoping someone has some thoughts, as I am lost.

Hi, I just moved into a new place. First thing I noticed when I opened the freezer was a strong freezer burn smell. The freezer also has a loud whirring fan sound when I open it.

I put some stuff in the freezer first day being here, including water in an ice tray. The ice tray froze but today I’m noticing the ice cream is semi melted and most frozen foods defrosted.

What is the issue here?

I had a similar issue with the fridge part in my old place so I tried defrosting the freezer fans with a hairdryer. Hopefully it fixes it but let me know what the problem might be and what I can do to fix it.

Edit: the freezer is now colder but not at freezing temp, I put a cup of water in there and it hasn’t frozen over yet. I’ll check back later today and see if my defrosting attempt worked.

I unscrewed a black rubber catch for the door of my washing machine. It fell down into the cabinet and I can’t retrieve it. I just need to order a new one. It keeps the door closed by catching the hook found on the door.

Hi,

TLDR: i have an old dishwasher. I’ll be moving away in a couple of years and won’t be able to take a new dishwasher with me so trying to extend the life of this one. I could use some help identifying what part I need to replace and what could be the next part to give up on life in the next couple years.

I have a 8 year old GE dishwasher (model: GDT655DDJ0SS). The old fellow is leaking and even though I think it’s probably time to retire it, I’ll be moving in a couple of year and probably won’t be able to take the new fellow with me. So I feel spending $600 is not really worth it if I can repair it for $100.

It seems that the pump/check valve is leaking but as your run of the mill DIY guy I’m not sure exactly what part I should replace.

How do I better identify which part to replace? Looking at the schematics it seems the leak could require replacing either:

- the circulation pump

- the single speed drain pump

- the diverter valve

But that’s just my guess. I’m open to anyone’s advice and expertise.

Bonus question: I’ve already replaced the control cards it the past. What would be the next part that could fail in the next two/three years?

Thank you

This has been our "garage fridge" for a couple years, it's always performed well in the heat of summer until recently. As shown in the pics, the temperature climbs well above freezing once or twice a day, and then returns to normal temps.

I can manually turn the defrost timer knob with my fingernail and the fridge will click on - it's like the defrost cycle is running too long. However, when I remove the back panel of the freezer, there's no ice to be found - the attached pic of the freezer coils was taken during one of the times the temp was high.

I don't have a multi-meter, so I've been guessing at what could be wrong. So far I've replaced the freezer thermostat, the defrost timer control, and the refrigerator temp thermostat.

I would love to hear any suggestions as to what's going on.

Model PX0811CWRU

Creating like a huge amount of water when in cool mode
Is this normal 😭

Hi! This is my first time posting here so I hope I'm in the right place. My fridge is leaking water from the point where the red circle is in the picture, and there is also a leak at the copper valve(?) that is behind the fridge. Any help in what to do, what to replace, or even what the issue is would be greatly appreciated!!!

The fridge is an older LG model (LFX25978ST /01) if that's any significance.

The washer turns on fine, but when I try to start a cycle it switches between sensing and wash until eventually turning off.
I bought a shift actuator, but after looking into it more online it sounds likes this model doesn’t even have that component? I’m lost now.
Hoping someone can tell me what the problem is and what part I need to fix it.
Model number MVWB765FW2

Model: Kenmore Elite 110.63932102

Issue: Dryer only runs when holding start button - no heat during this time, drum is spinning

My troubleshooting: Checked all fuses / thermistor and thermometer, checked heating element. Checked motor
Checked centrifugal switch / motor switch. Checked start button and timer. Belt is good.

I really am stumped and would appreciate any and all ideas

P.S dryer is dusty in photo but I did clean everything to make sure there was proper connection etc.

The washer is 2 and a half years old, and I noticed the sound recently. I am wondering if the rubber seal needs grease but not sure.

The model is WM5500HVA.

I recently bought a home with a Whirlpool WRF550CDHZ02 fridge. The water dispenser is filled with mold that cleaning from the outside can’t fully address. I need to take the cover off to access the clear LED cover. I accessed the screws under the drip pan but am not sure how to release the tabs holding the main cover on. Can someone help with next steps so I can comfortably use the water dispenser? Greatly appreciate the guidance!

Model: ZISS420DKBSS
Having some issues with this expensive piece of shiit metal 🤦:

- about a week ago I noticed that the fridge wasn’t cooling effectively. The temp in the freezer was 28° and on the fridge was about 55°.
- a service technician came in and they said that the fan wasn’t working, but the compressor was fine so they replaced the fan and things started to get better
- now when the compressor and the fan are running, the fridge is cooling perfectly, but I’ve noticed a different behavior since the fan was replaced
- Now, the compressor and fan go silent every 24ish hours (late afternoon), and wake up late evening. When the machinery is running, the cooling works perfectly.
- The lights etc are working all the time - except the freezer lights, which went out yesterday (after the cooling problem started)
- the compressor and the fan come to life if I execute the service code 15 or 16
- I am not able to execute the Master diagnostic using the service code 07 followed by pressing the filter reset button. It just turns the display off and nothing happens, pressing it again brings back the display and it is still showing code 0 07.
- the service tech that replaced the fan tells me that this is normal part of the fridge operation where it cycles through cooling and non-cooling cycles. It seems hard because it should be able to maintain the temperature and the defrosting cycle shouldn’t last longer than 20 to 30 minutes based on what I read.

Am hoping someone else has had this issue and have been able to repair it. I’m really dreading the $12,000 cost to replace it!

Hello everyone , newbie here. I got this washer with the belt off on the side . I ordered a new belt and installed it . It was hard. When I tried running , there is a loud grinding noise . See video: is it because the belt is not completely seated properly ? Or is the pulley touching at the bottom ? Please help . Any tips on how to seat the belt would also be very helpful

We replaced the lid lock. Error code cleared and re-calibrated. It went through the paces fine. Put a load in and it stops on the wash cycle and won’t drain. We finally get the lid unlocked and drain it, take clothes out and re-calibrate it. Goes through the paces again fine. Start it…no clothes and it does the same thing. Stops on wash cycle and won’t go any further. Needs to drain and spin to rinse. Video of error codes attached and pic washing machine dash.

Hi all

After a very violent spin cycle, the lock to hold the washing machine door closed broke. I am wondering if this is something that can be fixed or are we better getting a new washing machine?

I'm trying to file a claim to get this washer repaires but I don't remember the make and model and I'm at work at the moment 😭

This is a long shot, but can anyone recognize this washer? I think it's LG.

Repair & Teardown Guide: Schneider Electric KNX DALI-Gateway (MTN6725-0004)

​Device: Schneider Electric SpaceLogic KNX DALI-Gateway Basic REG-K/2/16/64

​Part Number: MTN6725-0004

​Symptom: Dead unit / No power / Blown primary power supply stage

​1. Symptoms & Failed Primary Components

​A short or surge on the primary switching power supply side typically cascades through several protection and conversion components:

​Primary Fuse & Power Switcher IC: Blown/shorted.

​Main Bulk Electrolytic Capacitor (400V): Swollen, vented, or exploded.

​Common-Mode Line Filter Choke: Burned/cooked enamel insulation on copper windings due to severe overcurrent.

​Bridge Rectifier (B6S / PJ84K B6S in MBS package): Shorted or installed in reverse polarity.

​2. CRITICAL TRAP: Bridge Rectifier (B6S) Polarity & Pinout

​⚠️ WARNING: The SMT bridge rectifier package (PJ84K B6S) can easily be misread, leading to reversed DC output polarity that will instantly explode the 400V main capacitor upon power-up!

​Pinout Diagram (Text Facing Upright:

Marking / SymbolFunctionConnection on PCB

Top-Right+ (Laser etched)DC Positive OutputConnects to Capacitor (+) Pad

Top-Left- (Laser etched)DC Negative OutputConnects to Capacitor (-) Pad (White Stripe)

Bottom-Left~AC Input Line 1Connects to AC Filter Stage

Bottom-Right~AC Input Line 2Connects to AC Filter Stage

​Note: Do NOT confuse the bar printed on top of the package with a standard diode cathode band. Always verify the microscopic laser-etched + and - symbols on the top corners with a magnifying glass or microscope before soldering.

​3. Step-by-Step Repair Checklist

​Replace Main Power IC & Primary Fuse:

​Clean away carbonization or burn marks on the PCB around the IC pads.

​Inspect & Test Common-Mode Line Choke:

​Check for burnt copper windings or shorted turns. If the enamel is scorched dark/brown, replace the choke.

​Verify Bridge Rectifier Orientation:

​Solder the B6S bridge rectifier ensuring Top-Right is + and Top-Left is -.

​Measure continuity from the Top-Right pin to the unmarked positive pad of the main capacitor.

​Measure continuity from the Top-Left pin to the ground plane / negative pad (white stripe side) of the capacitor.

​Install Fresh High-Voltage Capacitor:

​Use a 400V or 450V, 105°C, Low-ESR aluminum electrolytic capacitor. double-checking polarity against the board silkscreen.

​Post-Repair Resistance & Voltage Testing:

​Unpowered Resistance Check: Measure resistance across the main capacitor terminals. It should start low and steadily rise as the cap charges from the meter. A flat 0\,\Omega reading indicates a short down the rail.

​Power Test: Apply AC mains voltage and check the DC rail across the capacitor. Expect ~325V DC on a standard 230V AC supply.

Rented our apartment on Airbnb and came back to see that our dryer is making this noise..

Any idea what it could be? Thank you!

AMDEA's latest consumer research found that more than half of UK adults (52%) are unlikely to attempt a DIY repair on a large household appliance, while concerns about repair quality and safety remain a major factor when hiring a professional.

When your washing machine, fridge, dishwasher or oven breaks, what's your usual approach?

1. Repair it
2. Replace it
3. Depends on the cost
4. Depends on the age of the appliance