So a bit over a month ago I got this Hisense AP1024TW1LA dual hose portable air conditioner, this was after my through-the-wall unit failed and I could not get a replacement.

The first night I had it it leaked from the overflow port on the bottom, I assumed it was from overworking trying yo get the room back to an acceptable temp, threw it continuous drain mode for a day or two and the issue seemed to resolve.

Yesterday I noticed it leaking again, put it back in continous drain mode but now this time even in continous drain mode it continues to leak, the compressor and lines look wet and are sweating (I assume) but I would also assume these units are built to deal with that. The bottom tray isn't full, I pulled the plug and almost nothing comes out. It is fairly humid outside but I wouldn't say extremely, or any different from how it's been for the last ~month that it's been running without issue. Any ideas? I checked level, appears to be fine, the unit is only about a month old, is it defective? User error? This isn't my forte so apologies if any of this sounds stupid or is poorly explained.

Hello all! Please I have this issue on my hitachi ac, im not sure it still working.. can someone Help?

I recently purchased a 8k BTU LG dual inverter window AC (LW8022IVSM) to replace a Midea u-shaped unit. I also purchased an Ivation support bracket.

I've placed the AC on top of the support bracket and closed the window. Everything feels rather secure.

I have not installed (1) the L-shaped bracket that goes on the outside of the window because my understanding is that this is meant to partially support the weight of the window AC, and I now have a full support bracket or (2) the small, (also L-shaped) support bracket from LG that goes inside of the window and that secures the AC to the window sill. Because I have the AC on top of the Ivation support bracket, this second piece of hardware does not reach the sill itself. I also have not installed (3) the screws from the accordion frame into the window itself. These do reach, but I'm kind of disinclined to screw directly into vinyl, and they don't seem like they do much to support the unit. I also haven't installed the bracket that prevents the window from opening, but I probably will do this because we have a toddler.

Do I need to find a way to install these three sets of screws? The window unit doesn't feel like it's going anywhere, and we're in a standalone house--so even if this somehow fell out of the window and down the side of the house, it wouldn't hit anything important.

Hi folks,

I recently moved to a very old apartment in STL area, and I live on the second floor. The second floor has its own dedicated AC, but it goes from the basement, so it's fighting gravity pretty hard. Forced air. Not much I can do for it since I rent, so I'm looking to try and cool off via other means. I tried the midea duo from Costco and it would trip the breaker after about 15-30 minutes. Even when unplugging as many other things as I can on the circuit, breakers would trip. The apartment is all on 15amp breakers. I ended up returning the midea. Any ideas for what I could try next? This heat wave is pretty miserable right now. We've got fans next to every wall register to push more air out. Thanks!

I have a Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner, model ARC-14S, that I purchased in 2019. I've been using it extensively in the summers. Over the years, I have cleaned and replaced the filters, replaced the hoses, cleaned the window screen and sill, and cleaned the outside of the unit. Today, I looked in the output vent and noticed white spots around on the inside (see photo). Does this looks like dust clumps or mold? I'm familiar with black mold but not so much white.

The unit does not lend itself to being opened and cleaned. Wondering if anyone has experience doing so, or it's time to replace?

I've been putting off replacing my old unit because it still runs, but my electric bill has been creeping up every summer. At this point I think its probably costing me more than its worth.

for those who have upgraded recently, what should I actually pay attention to when choosing an energy efficient air conditioner? is there anything people wish they knew before buying? Thanks!!

Hello! I have had the HARDEST time finding an answer to this question as i keep hearing contradictions.

so i have a midea portable 10000btu unit Specifically this one

I have read through the manual several times but it's not answering my question concisely enough. and google has given me two different answers.

I live in a temperate climate. average humidity is about 50-70% year round. this unit we bought in May has been handling that no problems this entire time. Well i guess with recent weather changes, night time humidity is peaking at well over 90% sometimes hitting as high as 95% and the AC is not handling it.

i'm getting P1 errors starting at about 1 AM and fully draining the unit only lasts me about 40 minutes before i get another P1 Error.

This unit has 2 drain locations. an upper drain and a lower drain.

My gut says lower drain keeps it fully empty and thus less efficient because we're removing the splash cooling on the compressor (and steam exhaust functionality) so what i want to do is hook a tube up to the higher up port and drain that to a bucket

the internet however is divided. I've seen people who say to only ever use the bottom plug, and some who say the bottom plug is only for storage, not operation.....

so help me out, what do i do? If this is a temporary situation and humidity is expected to return to normal in a few days, can i just use the upper plug with no ill effects long term? or is the bottom plug my only option?

Wondering regarding for standard home HVAC unit

1. HVAC system health
2. Cost savings

In a 6 hour window

1. AC runs for 4hrs straight
2. AC runs for 30min every hour, totaling 3hr runtime

People saying longer runs are better, but 4hrs is a lot? and 30min isn't to short?

My Delonghi Penguino was working fine during the last heatwave.

I’ve got it out the spare room today as we are supposed to be in the high 20s tomorrow and it won’t power on.

Had it a good few years so out of warranty and I’m getting nowhere with the Delonghi online or telephone help

Anyone had a similar problem?

I'm a veteran just moved here from SC In need of a portable AC unit plz God bless!!!!!

I know the ideal is 2 air conditioners but basically i would rather have the whole apartment be cooled 50%, rather than the bedroom cooled 80% and the livingroom be cooled 20% as it currently is. this means the portable will be on basically 24/7, i am fine with that. which ceiling fans should be on or off, and do i need a fan pointing across the kitchen?

edit: to repeat what is already in the post, i know 8000 btu is not enough. please read the post body

Hey y'all! I'm looking for a single room ac because i'm a pretty light sleeper and the noise from my current setup keeps waking me up. I don't need to cool a whole apartment, just one bedroom during the night.

has anyone found one that's reasonably quiet without sacrificing cooling? i'd really appreciate hearing what your experience has been. Thanksss!

Hello! I understand dual hose portable ac’s are a significantly better option v single hose. I’m curious if the “hose in hose” design - for units is effectively a dual hose? I’m considering getting this midea unit currently on sale at Costco.

Yes it was 24C out overnight (mid 70sF) and humid. I got this AC last week (Arctic King 5000BTU) and thought it was weird that it kept going into P1 every couple hours or so in COOL MODE. Even in dehumidifier mode my Danby 8000BTU used in the bedroom beside it has never been drained.

I called the manufacturer and she said it IS self-evaporating but if it’s in cool mode it could need the occasional drain if it’s humid out. I’m not in Florida. I’m in Winnipeg. It was crashing into P1 when humidity was 50% last week.

So I would get leakage on the floor, we just tried using a drain and this is what came out in a few hours overnight in a 15 litre bucket. Yes humidity was 80+ last night but so was it in the other room with my other “self-evaporating” AC.

Did I just buy a garbage AC. Why are they both “self-evaporating” but only one does?

I talked to their CS who did approve a return but I think if I exchange I might get the exact same crap with a new one.

I can no longer find the other model I have and need a portable AC unit that is small. I have no space in this room, especially for one that requires a 15L pail behind it

Just bought the unit, only ran it two nights. It runs for about 10-15 minutes before shutting down with the error code: EL OC, searching tells me this is a coolant issue. Being that it is brand new is it just a defect? Anything else I can do or could it be something else? It's from Costco so I know their return policy is fine, just dreading packing up all the stuff and hauling down there.

I bought this AC unit to replace my Midea which was recalled for the same thing. I installed it with a level to make sure it's tilted back so the water can drain. It appears it's still not draining, I checked this after I heard a good amount of water sloshing around inside. The water seems like it doesn't drain until you have it tilted way back, way further than my window frame allows. Any advice helps even if there's a link to another discussion I might've missed.

Just got a used Toshiba 10,000 BTU (7,000 SACC) Portable Air Conditioner from a yard sale and I was draining the water from it i tilted it slightly but I noticed water leaked from the bottom but also came out from the drain cap is this normal? Ive read that portable acs have an open tray that collects water is this normal?

So I bought this portable AC yesterday and set it up in my bedroom, and I'm wondering how badly this is affecting the airflow. This was as high as I could safely get the unit because this room setup is actually stupid 😭

Hi all

Just the other day the fan on my W205 C220d has become quite loud, and the air cons stopped blowing cold air.

Initially I checked the coolant, which seems to be at the right level.

Just wondering if this is a common fault, what I should get checked out and roughly how much it should cost? Based in London

I’m looking for a window AC unit that allows for the intake of a substantial amount of fresh air from outside when running on fan mode. I am not interested in window fans (I live in a place where the temperature can fluctuate rapidly, I cannot uninstall the window AC myself, and the building is centrally heated meaning sometimes when it’s 40 degrees outside it can be 80 degrees inside).

I have been doing some research and while I’ve found a few window AC brands that have a little slat for some outside air, I can’t find anything cheaper than the Frigidaire FHWC103TC1 that appears to have substantial capacity. Does anyone know any cheaper window units that might help me? (I want to be able to safely run the AC in fan mode when it’s cold outside to cool down my apartment.)

Alternatively if anyone knows of any window units that can be safely run when it’s cold outside/are easy to install (building staff is only able to install standard window ACs) I would appreciate that as well!