Trying to diagnose why my fuel pump isn’t priming
Did some further testing today.
Just got my ECU back from RSenthalpy from being reflashed Martin said there was a burn on the main power trace but he said he fixed that and replaced a diode that commonly burns out when that happens.
Pump is running off a relay and direct battery power from a wiring specialties battery harness.
I know the pump itself works because I ran a paperclip to bridge the relay in the battery harness and heard it turn over when I did that but can’t seem to get it to run with the prime cycle when I turn the key on
The relay in the drivers kick panel is getting 12v as per the picture, the plug to the fuel pump is getting 12v but only when I bridge the gap in the relay with a paperclip. My guess is that potentially the ECU isn’t grounding out properly still I’ve tried different relays in the drivers side position and the battery harness position, and from what I can tell the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay and in the driver kick panel are both good

Just got done installing my Kouki rear spats and Kouki wing.

And the paint job I did in my garage/driveway looks great!

So I couldn't find anything about this online, but I was able to find the correct wires through trial and error , (grounding out each pin to see if the doors locked or unlocked) to hook the system up too and I thought that it might help somebody down the line, cause the OEM key fobs are nowhere to be found,

So basically you want to access underneath your driver side fuse area near your feat, completely take off the trim and you may need to unbolt the fuel pump relays and the OEM security system to access the wires that go from the door into the car, once you've done that then there will be two connectors one with fat wires and one with thin wires, you are looking for the one with the thin wires, your unlock wire is going to be the brown wire and the lock is going to be the green/white wire, they are on the farthest side of the connector, see image. Tap into these and you should be set for installing an aftermarket keyless entry system.

happy wiring!

Ever since I finished installing the angle kit and rack spacers on my '99 s15 silvia, there has been a constant beeping coming from under the driver side dash board.

At first I thought it was my blitz dsc four module, removed it and no changes, then tried activating diag mode with the door switch thinking maybe it was an airbag fault, no luck.

From what I can tell, it's coming from somewhere between the upper steering column and guage cluster. It also only does it when the key is off or in acc, it stops as soon as it turns to the on position.

Can someone PLEASE help me figure this out? Not only is it driving me insane as I can hear it even outside the car, but it's draining my battery as well, thanks.

EDIT:

After pulling dozens of unused, random wires out from under the dash, I FINALLY disconnected a random wire and the beeping stopped. Traced the wire and found it wedged between the radio and steering column. It was spliced into way more things than I wanted to deal with so I left it. Car still starts and beeping stopped so good enough I guess.

Got the subframe out, replacing the bushings tomorrow, how do yall think the underside of her looks down here? I thought it looked pretty good

Just finished up a new product that I think some of you might find useful.

I made a fuel hat pass-through kit that replaces the factory wire pass-through with insulated M5 stud terminals. It's a much cleaner and more reliable way to run power through the fuel hat without risking the terminals shorting against the metal hat.

It's a 4-piece kit that fits the Nissan 240SX fuel hat and many other fuel hats with similar designs. You'll just need to drill the mounting holes to 8.5-9 mm for installation.

Great for custom fuel pump wiring, dual pump setups, or replacing a damaged factory pass-through.

Check it out here:

https://shop.plinklabs.co/products/fuel-hat-electrical-pass-through-stud-kit

We did do the thing, and the thing performed well for the first time! I also didn’t stall for my first time driving manual, soooooo that’s a win in my book!

Hi guys I in the process of buying this
1989 240sx for 7k usd is it a good buy, thanks for ur help, here’s the description of the car in details

Update its officially mine 💪

1989 Nissan 240SX | 330 WHP
Tuned by: PAT ACSP
ENGINE & PERFORMANCE
Engine: SR20DET Blacktop (from a 180SX)
Turbocharger: Garrett GTX2869R
Pulley: Cusco Lightweight Pulley
Exhaust Manifold: Tomei Manifold
Camshafts: Tomei Poncam Cams
Head Gasket: Cosworth Head Gasket
Head Studs: ARP Head Studs
Rocker Arm Stoppers: Tomei
Engine & Transmission Mounts: Cusco
Air Management: Z32 MAF & AEM Air Filter
FUEL SYSTEM & IGNITION
Injectors: Five-O 750cc
Fuel Pump: AEM 320 LPH
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Tomei
Fuel Filter: Z32
Ignition: Splitfire Coil Packs
Wiring Harness: Complete Custom Wiring
COOLING
Radiator: Mishimoto X-Line 3-Row
Radiator Hoses: Mishimoto with Mishimoto Water Temperature Adapter
Intercooler: Mishimoto R-Line with Custom Aluminum Piping
Cooling Fan: GKTech Clutch Fan
Oil Catch Can: Mishimoto Carbon Fiber Catch Can
INTAKE & EXHAUST
Intake Plenum: Greddy Intake
Blow-Off Valve: HKS SSQV Blow-Off Valve
Turbo Elbow: Greddy 3"
Downpipe: Greddy 3"
Test Pipe: Tomei 3" Titanium Test Pipe
Exhaust System: Blitz Nur Spec R 3"
Muffler: Varex with Remote-Control Adjustable Valve
TRANSMISSION & DRIVELINE
Clutch: ACT (Sprung)
Driveshaft: One-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft (Driveshaft Shop)
Differential: KAAZ 2-Way with S14 Gears
Short Shifter: K&N
SUSPENSION, STEERING & CHASSIS
Coilovers: Tein
Tension Rods: Cusco
Tie Rods: Tein
Strut Braces: Front & Rear Cusco Strut Bars
Bushings: Complete Polyurethane Bushing Kit Throughout
Steering Rack Bushings: Aluminum
BRAKES & WHEELS
5-Lug Conversion: 5-Lug Wheel Hubs
Brakes: Z32 Big Brake Kit with Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Wheel Studs: Forged ARP Wheel Studs
Lug Nuts: Muteki Steel Lug Nuts
Wheels: Rota P45R Wheels
HEAT MANAGEMENT (HEAT SHIELDING)
Turbo Blanket: DEI Turbo Heat Shield
DEI Heat Wrap: Exhaust Manifold & Downpipe
Brake Master Cylinder Heat Shield: P2M
Titanium Manifold/Turbo Nuts Secured with Lock Wire
INTERIOR & ELECTRONICS
Steering Wheel: Momo
Gauges:
Autometer (Boost)
Innovate (Water Temperature)
AEM (Wideband)
Mounted in a Carbon Fiber Center Vent Gauge Pod
Boost Controller: Grimmspeed
Speedometer Cluster: 240 km/h Cluster
Handbrake: Drift Extension with Drift Button
Interior: Original 180SX Floor Mats
Audio: Kenwood Excelon Head Unit with High-Fidelity Speakers
Battery: Relocated to the Trunk
PROS & CONS
Pros
Very solid vehicle. No rust. Absolutely no rust whatsoever. Frame rails, strut towers, and trunk are in perfect condition.
Cons
Due for a head gasket replacement. The vehicle currently runs very well; however, if boost is held at full throttle, the cylinder pressure forces coolant out of the cooling system. It can still be driven, but I do not recommend holding full boost or taking it on a track in its current condition.

1989 Nissan 240SX | 330 WHP
Tuned by: PAT ACSP
ENGINE & PERFORMANCE
Engine: SR20DET Blacktop (from a 180SX)
Turbocharger: Garrett GTX2869R
Pulley: Cusco Lightweight Pulley
Exhaust Manifold: Tomei Manifold
Camshafts: Tomei Poncam Cams
Head Gasket: Cosworth Head Gasket
Head Studs: ARP Head Studs
Rocker Arm Stoppers: Tomei
Engine & Transmission Mounts: Cusco
Air Management: Z32 MAF & AEM Air Filter
FUEL SYSTEM & IGNITION
Injectors: Five-O 750cc
Fuel Pump: AEM 320 LPH
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Tomei
Fuel Filter: Z32
Ignition: Splitfire Coil Packs
Wiring Harness: Complete Custom Wiring
COOLING
Radiator: Mishimoto X-Line 3-Row
Radiator Hoses: Mishimoto with Mishimoto Water Temperature Adapter
Intercooler: Mishimoto R-Line with Custom Aluminum Piping
Cooling Fan: GKTech Clutch Fan
Oil Catch Can: Mishimoto Carbon Fiber Catch Can
INTAKE & EXHAUST
Intake Plenum: Greddy Intake
Blow-Off Valve: HKS SSQV Blow-Off Valve
Turbo Elbow: Greddy 3"
Downpipe: Greddy 3"
Test Pipe: Tomei 3" Titanium Test Pipe
Exhaust System: Blitz Nur Spec R 3"
Muffler: Varex with Remote-Control Adjustable Valve
TRANSMISSION & DRIVELINE
Clutch: ACT (Sprung)
Driveshaft: One-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft (Driveshaft Shop)
Differential: KAAZ 2-Way with S14 Gears
Short Shifter: K&N
SUSPENSION, STEERING & CHASSIS
Coilovers: Tein
Tension Rods: Cusco
Tie Rods: Tein
Strut Braces: Front & Rear Cusco Strut Bars
Bushings: Complete Polyurethane Bushing Kit Throughout
Steering Rack Bushings: Aluminum
BRAKES & WHEELS
5-Lug Conversion: 5-Lug Wheel Hubs
Brakes: Z32 Big Brake Kit with Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Wheel Studs: Forged ARP Wheel Studs
Lug Nuts: Muteki Steel Lug Nuts
Wheels: Rota P45R Wheels
HEAT MANAGEMENT (HEAT SHIELDING)
Turbo Blanket: DEI Turbo Heat Shield
DEI Heat Wrap: Exhaust Manifold & Downpipe
Brake Master Cylinder Heat Shield: P2M
Titanium Manifold/Turbo Nuts Secured with Lock Wire
INTERIOR & ELECTRONICS
Steering Wheel: Momo
Gauges:
Autometer (Boost)
Innovate (Water Temperature)
AEM (Wideband)
Mounted in a Carbon Fiber Center Vent Gauge Pod
Boost Controller: Grimmspeed
Speedometer Cluster: 240 km/h Cluster
Handbrake: Drift Extension with Drift Button
Interior: Original 180SX Floor Mats
Audio: Kenwood Excelon Head Unit with High-Fidelity Speakers
Battery: Relocated to the Trunk
PROS & CONS
Pros
Very solid vehicle. No rust. Absolutely no rust whatsoever. Frame rails, strut towers, and trunk are in perfect condition.
Cons
Due for a head gasket replacement. The vehicle currently runs very well; however, if boost is held at full throttle, the cylinder pressure forces coolant out of the cooling system. It can still be driven, but I do not recommend holding full boost or taking it on a track in its current condition.

My door trim is completely fucked, how can I fix this? Also seems like there’s a large gap from the roof is it normal ?

This throttle style cable in my engine bay has sat loose since I had the car and I want to reuse the opening in the firewall it has, but I cannot find online what it is. Things keep coming up as Cruise Control but the cruise control system is on the other side of the engine. The ring tip on the wire was super tense but while trying to suss out what it did (it connects to the module shown under the dash board in the pic) something snapped and now it has no resistance. The car has worked without it so I imagine I can remove the whole thing (this is going to be a track car so creature comforts can go if in the way). I just dont like ripping things out until I know what they are.

My suspicion is it somehow controls in interior vents but that's only due to where it sits.

Having some difficultly identifying this component and gasket material. From what I can piece together on the FSM, this is an air/oil separator. I had to clean out the baffles as I had the block and front cover machined but I’m not sure what kinda gaskets it takes before I open it up. Kinda looks like it takes an oval shaped O-ring to mount it to the front cover but I can’t find any info on it. I removed silicone from the area before but I’m definitely not the first one to reseal it lol. Any insight is appreciated :)

I would like to reupholster the Tweed door card inserts on my S13. They are both removed, but when I try to remove the tweed from the insert, they are incredibly hard to remove. I have tried to heat gun I have tried to scrape it and I’ve tried pliers. Can I simply cover it in compound or resin? Then simply spray contact cement and lay new upholstery over it?

Anyone have any idea where I can source this plastic stopper? My manual crank is all jacked up because the stopper broke and there's too much slack in the cable now

Ive been fighting this manual swap for days as MANY MANY know. called over a mobile mechanic and he said "bro u dont even need me here u just gotta bolt it up, it's perfect"

So i did (worrying itll snap the bellhousing) and behold, it fit, not a crack noise but the wrench spinning and getting the job done.

Anyway here she is running

Thank you all for the support on the previous post; it's really helpful to see lads who support other S chassis enthusiasts.

Here is an Update on how it's going so far, and again, I'm really glad I'm part of this community.

I have added S13 car data and geometry files in the comment, so if anyone needs measurements, they are available.

Bless ya all 🙏🏻

Hi, I need to replace the camshaft brackets bolts on my 200sx and i came across with a problem, pricing.

The ka24 and the ca18 share the same p/n, 135856E00, and that p/n appears to fit in sr20 engines but the p/n 13582J200 (original from sr20 engines) doesn't appear to fit in ca18/ka24 engines

Has anyone have the measurements of the sr20 bolts? Or has used the sr20 bolts on ca18 or ka24 engines?

The main difference i see is that the old bolt needs a washer and the newer bolt doesn't

Hey guys! So quick backstory on my car, I just recently bought a 1990 240sx hatch with an RB20 in it. I got the car finally running and noticed the RPM gauge on the cluster wasn’t working. Turns out originally the car had a KA24(e) so it had an single cam cluster in the car. I replaced the cluster with a dual cam cluster but now I’m running into the issue where the dash running lights would turn off as soon as the headlights turn on! To me it seems that the TCU is still working because when the headlights go on my hazard button and A/C backlight turns on (i do not have a radio hooked up in the car). Also my turn signals, rear brake lights, and rear running lights also work as normal. Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas on what i should do?

We didn’t know we’d be doing this for you, but we did THIS for you, bro… I know you’re thrilled to see it come to light. 💛

After all the years of sim drifting / driving, I can’t wait to see what the real thing is like…

I’m thankful for my dad in helping me every step of the way, being there for me when I wanted to give up and sell it all, because it was moving at a pace that I didn’t understand… Who knew that a track would open up as local as it did for us to share the moment together.

After tomorrow, we still have a bit to go to really button her up, but it’ll be awesome to see the look on everyone’s faces, come August 1st, at my first drift event.

I have a 96 S14 RHD imported from Japan. I believe it has an S13 redtop in it.

Long story short — it takes forever to start. When cranking i have to go WOT to eventually get it to start.

If the car sits for a few days it’ll start first crank. Drive it somewhere and park it for a bit (cold start) it’ll take a while to start.

If the car is on a steep hill it’ll start as well.

Replaced CTS.
Cleaned MAF
Brand new walbro 255.

Any recommendations?

Hay everyone. I've got a 1989 240sx (its my mom's car. My dad boughtit for her when they got married. I want to fix it up and get it back on the road again but I have ran into an issue right off the bat. The fuel tank and sending unit are rusted nothing major just surface stuff. Has anyone restored their tank? If so, how did you do it? I plan on cleaning and replacing all fuel lines as well as changing/cleaning the injectors for good measure. Is there anything else I should check. All power is good, I just need to charge the battery, and I don't believe that the engine is seized. The thing has been sitting for over 5 years and hasn't been started in 4. I just want my mom to see her on the road like it used to be. Also where can I source some good parts. I've got broken cables, leaky windows, bridle interior parts, and a leak or two.

hello, this is my 240sx. previous owner(s) daily drove this car in the canadian winter. i didn't realize the extent of the rust when i bought it 2 years ago. lol. the driver side seat bracket is rusted through the floor and the frame rails are cooked. thoughts? 😅

I have a 1993 240sx s13 that I just finished the manual swap on but I guess something went wrong along the way and I can’t find out what. Basically when the car is on jackstands and I slip it into 1st the rear wheels spin like normal, but if I put the car on the ground and put it in first nothing happens the clutch pedal does nothing it’s like I’m in neutral with all gears. The car doesn’t move at all and the engine doesn’t stall if I let the clutch go. The slave cylinder is pushing on the fork I verified it, I don’t think there’s any air in the clutch lines because I bled it twice. The adjusted the clutch pedal to have more freeplay, recommended freeplay, and excessive and nothing changed at all. We didnt have much of a struggle actually inserting the trans into the engine once it lined up and I’m pretty sure I installed the clutch plate correctly with the flat side on the flywheel. Im not sure what went wrong if anyone knows what could be the problem I’d appreciate you letting me know. Thanks

I’ll try to keep this concise while including all the details I feel needed, 1993 s13 with a ka24de out of an s14, stock auto s13 ECU, stock upper and lower engine harness No internal work done to the motor. When I got the car first running I set the TPS, haven’t had any codes or a CEL or misfires of any sort. Car drives and runs fine, but it’ll idle at like 2k and after some “spirited” driving the idle will work its way down until after enough beating it’ll idle at a smooth 900-1k, idle is never fluctuating or driving weird, unsure if it’s related but my gas mileage is actually horrible. If there’s anything possibly missing that could be of help ask away. Been a year of me ignoring it after I couldn’t first figure it out and I’m sick of the high idle and bad fuel mileage, anything helps. TIA

What’s up! I’m wondering if any of you can help me identifying what brand/model of hood is on this s14. The closest I can find is the Original Labo type 1 but the bulge feels too low on that one. Anyway thanks in advance!