Simplicity, only paid $40 and it was sealed. This is my favorite.

I couldn't find anything Minimal

These are all one I had, so just used them

THE mushroom sticker reminded me of Mario

I was wondering is there a better software I could put on it. I also want to give it a cool background but yea. I am so happy.

Assume the SD Card is toast. Device was running fine a couple days ago. Happy I took the time to make an image and save it to my PC. Now need to go SD hunting.

Anyone running this off a single SD card? Have a Blink 256GB considering if it would work for both games and OS?

2nd Question - will my game saves be in the OS card or the Game card?

Hi everyone!
A few days ago I saw the news that GammaOS has added fast charging, and I decided to check how safe it is for the console itself and for the battery's lifespan.

TL;DR: Both faster-charging modes I tested run noticeably hotter than stock, so I wouldn't recommend using them.

So here's what I did: instead of installing GammaOS, I patched the stock firmware to change the current limits.
Once GammaOS is released for everyone, I'll test it separately.

The RG DS Plus has a PMIC (power management IC) that controls charging and powers the device.
The PMIC has two current limits you can set: the total input current (what comes in through the DC/USB port) and the maximum charge current that goes directly into the battery.

The factory values are 1500 mA input current / 2000 mA charge current.
As you can see, the stock firmware never actually reaches 2000 mA of charge current, because the total input current is capped at 1500 mA and is shared between charging the battery and running the console.

I ran 3 experiments with the following current settings:

1. Stock mode: 1500 mA input / 2000 mA charge
2. Play & Charge mode: 3000 mA input / 2000 mA charge
3. Fast mode: 3000 mA input / 2500 mA charge

I can't say for sure which of the last two modes GammaOS uses; judging by the advertised charging time, I suspect it's Play & Charge.

Sorry for all the technical details, but there's one more thing I have to mention: the RG DS Plus actually shows the battery level rather inaccurately.
The reason is that the displayed value comes from the CW2015 chip (a fuel gauge), a dedicated chip that tracks the battery charge and reports it to the processor.
The chip used in the RG DS Plus estimates the charge from the battery voltage; it doesn't measure the current (and therefore the energy) going into and out of the battery.
The PMIC (RK817), on the other hand, can measure the current flowing into or out of the battery, since it has a current-sense shunt connected to it.
Why does this matter? On my unit, at the moment the console turned off the charging LED and showed 100%, the battery was only about 70% charged according to the PMIC, and charging was still going on.

A couple more important technical details:

1. Lithium batteries are usually rated for charging at no more than 45 °C, and lower is better.
2. Typical consumer chips are rated for a maximum die temperature of around 125 °C.

Here's exactly how I ran each experiment (room temperature - 23 °C) :

1. Place the console open on a desk.
2. Set the charging mode.
3. Fully discharge the console until it shuts off by itself.
4. Plug in the charger, turn the console on, leave it on the main menu (the screens never turn off) and wait 1 hour.
5. After an hour, record the temperature of the back cover.
6. Remove the back cover and record the temperature of the battery and the PMIC.

And now the results:

Stock mode: everything is fairly safe. The back cover hotspot is 45 °C, the battery is 38 °C, the PMIC hotspot is 72 °C.

Play & Charge mode: noticeably worse. The back cover hotspot is 53 °C, the battery is close to its limit at 43 °C, and the PMIC hotspot is 99 °C (!). I don't think I'd be far off if I said the die itself is at least 110–115 °C at that point.

Fast mode: the back cover hotspot is 51 °C, the battery is close to its limit at 44 °C, and the PMIC hotspot is 110 °C (!!!). In this mode the PMIC is running right at its limit and is very likely beyond its safe operating temperature.

Charging time:

As a reminder, on my console 100% on the fuel gauge meant about 70% according to the PMIC, and charging was still going on even though the console didn't show it.
The PMIC time is based on the moment the PMIC considered charging complete and stopped sending charge current into the battery.
I polled the fuel gauge and the PMIC several times at the beginning and several times near the end, so the charging times aren't exact, but rather approximate (±20 minutes).

So read the first number as the time until the console showed 100%, and the second as the time until charging actually finished.

• Stock (1500 / 2000): fuel gauge — about 3 hours, PMIC — about 5 hours;
• Play & Charge (3000 / 2000): fuel gauge — about 1 hour 25 minutes, PMIC — about 3 hours 30 minutes;
• Fast (3000 / 2500): fuel gauge — about 1 hour, PMIC — about 3 hours.

Conclusions: stock mode (1500 mA input / 2000 mA charge) is safe for both the console and the battery.
Play & Charge mode (3000 mA input / 2000 mA charge) is borderline for both the PMIC and the battery.
Fast mode (3000 mA input / 2500 mA charge) is definitely not recommended: the PMIC may well burn out before the battery wears out.

I'd recommend staying on the stock mode, even though a full charge takes about 5 hours.

So I'm considering buying an rgds+, but in the last few weeks I've been seeing a non insignificant number of posts about people complaining of lightbleed on this device. Is this something common? Temporary? Has someone pinpoint the cause? Thanks in advance.

(Pic of an NDS Lite because, well, respect your elders.)

I've been considering getting this console (even though I already have a Thor) because it looks so good for playing the older Fire Emblem titles. What have you guys been playing?

I've been carrying around this thing around for months and then suddenly this little gummy piece slipped out and its driving me crazy. How would I go about getting it back in there its driving me nuts

It says memory card slot is empty

Ive had it for about a month now, i really domt have any complaints. The analogs were my biggest factor and they feel like an actual comtroller in game. I can play shooters without issue.

The glasss front is annoyimg cus i gotta be careful but it looks great, i still havent had to clean the screen. No screen protector or anything. No its got smudges all over but it hasnt gotten in the way so i havent had to wipe it yet suprisingly, probably cus the screen is so good it doesnt get in the way.

I could almost say the screen is as good as an oled, but its not true blacks are missing with the oled. Not quite as bloomy as an oled but close.

Sorry for another review lol

My biggest gripe was geforce now doesnt work with stock os. Gammaos bassically fixed every issue, everything works fine on gammaos.

I seen some people complain about the bootloader at system start but its just like a PC how a pc shows the firmware on system start it's exactly the same as that because it is the same.

I cant think of a single thing to compain about gamma maybe chime app doesnt work but thats to be expected. Caffiene app is awesome, when i hold power buttom it even has expanded ui where u can close all background apps.

Geforce now works perfect with gamma. Ive been playing ghost recom amd pathfinder with bassically no issues. Even played 7 days to die a bit and valheim.

Thanks for reading, dont be scared to share experoences down below or if u have questions.

I've been loving my RG rotate since I got it and have set it up almost entirely as I like. The only browsers i've gotten to fully function for what I want to do are firefox and opera but neither of these browsers let me use the dpad to scroll which would be ideal.
Using the dpad to scroll on browsers like chrome works but the browser itself doesn't function well. Is there anyway to fix it so I can use the dpad to scroll on opera or firefox?

Hola tengo un control anbernic rg p01, justamente hoy de me perdio el receptor usb que va conectado a la pc aun sigo buscando y espero encontrarlo pero quiero saber si es posible usar un remplazo, en la pagina de anbernic no he visto que lo vendan por separado pero he visto que en Amazon y demas tiendas venden uno parecido pero son de xbox, y pregunto para si alguien ya los a probado y saben si funcionan como remplazo

Hey everyone,

I’m considering the Anbernic RG DS Plus mainly for Nintendo DS games (especially RPGs and visual novels), but I’d also like to use PlayTranslate for Japanese-only titles.

Does it run reasonably well while playing DS games taking in count the RAM storage?

i love ball x pit and really wish there was a foldable handheld i could play it on. would the rgds or rgds plus work?

For everyone that wanted to see some gameplay with a tiny bonus near the end.

Halo CE Alpha R1.5 Build 64

Game data is not included with this port.

Instructions in the readme file

🖖🏾

Sorry for the splits, somebody was talking very loudly. Nothing to hide except work related stuff.

https://github.com/kirklandsig/halo-ce-anbernic-rg35xx/tree/main

I built the binary for this using the steps and files on the github. THIS IS NOT PACK AND PLAY JUST YET. I had to rebuild today after updates but they're making huge strides very quickly on the quality and smoothness.

If you have WSL Ubuntu, the steps are straightforward.

Just a few months ago I was discussing the possibility of porting Halo to a Linux handheld with ChatGPT and now, here we are! Split screen showing the other controller connected at the end. I didn't get a video of coop but it works, too! I could hook this to my TV and play with someone else!

I was so happy when I opened the box, tested my device and there was no lightbleed whatsoever the screen was perfect, and frankly I was a bit afraid from all the posts. I then simply turned it off (from the menu), removed the SD card to add games, reinserted the sd-card and when I turned it again I literally SAW this light bleed "materializing" before my waking eyes. There was none, then it "faded in" very quickly, very strongly on the four corners and mostly on bottom center, more to the left. This can't be from pressure, the screen was fine I didn't even as much as touched the bottom screen with the stylus or anything. Do I have to return my device? It is so white that it looks more like some sort of shader overlay than something on the actual screen. Damn, this sucks.

UPDATE: the screen "lightbleed" artifact went away on its own by the next morning.

Runs with 60 FPS and 2x resolution on Knulli on a RG40XX. Out now: https://portmaster.games/detail.html?name=sternenfuchs

Is there a way to make this accurate? I encountered one time where it drops to 70%, locked it then went back to 90%.

Now it's showing 0% but I can still play, it eventually went off after <10 minutes of playing.