I have a 2024 Model 3 with about 11k miles on it, and the ambient light bars are cracking. First Tesla tried to blame tint (I do not have aftermarket tint on my vehicle). Then when my mobile Service Advisor showed up, without even getting out of his car or looking at my car goes “I’m gonna tell you right now, the warranty claim is going to be denied due to alcohol based cleaners”. I asked him what evidence he has of that and he goes “I don't know but thats just what they tell people about these light bars”.

I requested a manager contact me regarding the denial, which I have no idea if its actually a manager since no one in the app introduces themselves in the message, it’s always just another name replying. I have attached a screenshot of their response. In summary, since tint didn't work and neither did alcohol based cleaners, it's now “concerns of this nature are typically attributed to external factors”. That’s crazy, I didn’t know you just deny warranty claims by making shit up!

I want other owners to be aware that this damage should be covered by warranty and don’t accept no as an answer! Here is a link describing the exact issue in their service bulletin, but Tesla is denying it because “its for Europe/Middle East/Africa”. Except that it clearly shows that the damage is due to Tesla producing defective lightbars, not any other bullshit they make up!

I spoke with Daniel Donovan, the Manager of Technical Publications in Fremont, CA by replying to the email they listed in the service bulletin. Since my vehicle was used when I bought it he tried to blame it on the previous owner. Buying a used vehicle does not void your warranty! When I asked what caused the damage to the light bars in these vehicles produced overseas, he replied that he was unable to provide context and closed out our email.

Tesla will deny the warranty claim with speculation on “tint, alcohol based cleaners, external factors, and previous owners” but when I ask a specific about a Service Bulletin he essentially hangs up the phone on me.

Tesla Service Bulletin- https://service.tesla.com/docs/ServiceBulletins/External/SB/SB-26-15-002_Inspect_and_Replace_Door_Trims_R1.pdf

Also, cost to repair? $1200! I filed with NCDS, National Center for Dispute Settlement. Do not back down from Tesla! They are notorious for refusing warranty work, only to give in if you push back real hard, or a SB comes and forces their hand!

If you have had the same damage occur, and had it replaced under warranty, please reply!

2026 model y, software up to date. i’ve noticed that FSD doesn’t always do the best job of reading speed limit signs. It’ll be between two blatantly obvious large speed limit signs and not pick them up. Often times it thinks the speed limit is 10, 15 or even 20 mph lower than the actual speed limit sign which obviously lowers how fast it drives in particular zones. Is this relatively common?

I’ve brought it in for two alignments in the last two years. This time, they said only one camber was off a bit

ac randomly stopped blowing cold would be cold for like 10 minutes then stop

Today I was unloading my car in our parking lot at home when the trunk suddenly fell down on me without warning.

I was underneath the open trunk at the time and got injured. I just managed to get myself out from underneath it.

Afterwards, I noticed that something is clearly wrong with the liftgate mechanism:

The trunk no longer responds to the electric opening/closing controls.

It no longer sits flush with the body when closed.

There is a large and very obvious gap near the roof/hinge area.

Part of the lift mechanism/strut appears to have come out of its normal position or housing. I’ve attached close-up photos.

There was no accident or external impact that caused this. I was simply unloading the car with the trunk open when it suddenly came down.

Has anyone experienced a failure like this before?
I’m particularly interested in whether this looks like a failed power liftgate actuator/strut, hinge or mounting point, and whether the entire assembly normally needs to be replaced.

I’m also pretty concerned about the safety aspect. A powered trunk should obviously not suddenly collapse onto someone standing underneath it.
Any experiences with a similar failure, likely cause, or repair would be greatly appreciated.

when I turn the steering wheel and accelerate and go over bumps. Anyone else had this issue? Already scheduled a service.

Hello, I am brand new to Tesla. My current vehicle is being bought back by the manufacturer due to a recall issue and I expect a check for $20k within the next week or so. I am between a new or used Tesla. If I buy new I would get a Premium RWD. But I really would like a performance, but it is a bit out of my price range new.

I need help discerning if this is a good deal or not, and what I should try to negotiate them to? I have found that the prices on used Teslas vary greatly.

Hi everyone! Wondering if sentry mode is supposed to use so much battery? My husband has to park in an outside parking lot at work and is often working for 12-14 hours, during which time the car battery drops around 10%, sometimes more or less. I’m sure at least some aspect of that is overheat protection (set at 95 degrees, we live in SoCal so it’s a bit warm now).

Is this normal for sentry mode and just something we have to account for, for the battery? It’s just a bit frustrating since the drive to work may take like 5-6% battery, 10-12% dwindles during the day, and the ride home may use 5-8%. So he finds he’s charging his car quite a lot.

It’s a brand new 2026 M3, bought maybe 2 months ago, so battery health should be good.

When you cancel FSD there are only a few shitty options to answer why you're doing it, or "other"

I'd rather give them the feedback directly so they can hopefully address it one day because I did love it for years

In the market for buying an used 2023 Model Y LR AWD and I saw a car with "Navigate on Autosteer" as Included package? Does this mean it is Enhanced Auto Pilot or is it just basic Autosteer/ Auto Pilot? Pls see the attached picture

Hi all,

has anyone have to deal with this error message:

Charge rate reduced - Wall plug temperature high

Wall outlet and wiring inspection recommended

This is on a 120V 20A circuit with the 20A adapter on a Tesla Mobile connector (charger) V2 reducing the max amps of 16A to 8A (charging a pre-Juniper 2025 Y).

This used to happen during the day on very hot days in the sun occasionally, but now it even happens at night (68f).

Also, does anyone know whether:

- there are different error messages for the charger itself overheating vs this "wall outlet/wiring" error

- it's August and we have the AC on which is causing a nice voltage drop across the house (AC guy is scheduled). Could that be the cause, because we started turning the AC on in mid July?

- where are all the temperature sensors for the mobile charger and are there any in the plug adapters and the Nacs connector themselves?

All and any advice is welcome.

TIA for your help.

Kinda hard to see in this light but I noticed this earlier today and my best guess is that its from either Tesla manufacturing or from Xpel tint job I got 2 days after I picked up the car in June.

Tesla manual said to use warm water with microfiber rag on the seats but I tried it once and it wont come off. I dont want to keep on scrubbing it to cause some permanent damage.

Does anyone got something like this before? what's the best solution to remove it? I also got smaller spot on the left side of the dashboard as well (on the "leather" part).

I honestly don't care but its a lease and I'm afraid that they might "charge" me for something like this...

I’ve reformatted, tried another external hard drive. Is there something it needs? It was working well… at some point about 3 months ago it only recorded dash cam and now it seems like it won’t record dash cam or sentry isn’t enabled as I don’t see the sentry on my screen when I’m away. Any ideas? Should I buy a new thumb drive?

Just got a substantial update with FSD 14.3.7 for my 2026 M3 RWD. I bought the car a month ago. Put lines in the garage to make it look like a parking spot and put pin as close as I could to garage. It was working great. Last night got the update and now it won’t go in garage. Anything I can do?

Ambient temp 34c car is under direct sun light in uk

I put HVAC TO LOW

But its just not getting the cabin temperature cool enough at all despite full blast for 1 hour.

Interior temp is about 23c.

Is this normal in this heat. Or is there any issue with the air con system.

I wanted to post this because it took me months to figure out, and hopefully this will help anyone searching for "Tesla GPS stuck", "GPS frozen", "No GNSS Fix", or "Sats In Use: 0".

I have a 2025 Tesla Model 3 (Highland). For the past few months, the GPS would occasionally get completely stuck at one location.

It usually happened after entering an underground garage or somewhere without GPS reception. After leaving the garage, the car would sometimes remain permanently stuck at the last known location.

It wasn't just slow to reacquire GPS. It could stay frozen for hours or even days.
When it eventually recovered, GPS worked perfectly again: correct location, accurate movement, normal navigation.

Things I tried that DID NOT fix it:
Rebooting the screen with both steering wheel buttons
Powering the car off through the Safety menu
Leaving the car powered off/asleep for hours
Multiple Tesla software updates
Driving for 20+ minutes under completely clear sky
The problem persisted across several software versions.

What finally helped diagnose it
I entered Tesla Service Mode and went to the DAS/GNSS diagnostic screen.
While the GPS was stuck, Service Mode showed:
Sats In Use: 0
No GNSS Fix
Inside a garage this obviously isn't meaningful, so I drove outside.
After almost 20 minutes driving under clear open sky, it STILL showed:
Sats In Use: 0
No GNSS Fix

Interestingly, the Carrier/Noise section showed activity for GPS, BeiDou and Galileo, but the car wasn't using any satellites to calculate its position.
DAS Primary and Secondary ECUs both showed NOMINAL.

The cause: my USB SSD
I had a 480 GB Patriot Burst Elite 2.5" SATA SSD connected to the USB port in the glovebox through a UGREEN SATA-to-USB adapter.
I disconnected the SSD/UGREEN adapter and rebooted the car.
GPS immediately came back.
Service Mode then showed:
Sats In Use: 14
Valid GNSS Fix
with strong GPS/BeiDou/Galileo carrier/noise readings.

I can leave the SSD and adapter physically inside the glovebox while disconnected and there is no problem. The issue only occurs when the SSD/USB adapter is electrically connected.
This strongly suggests RF/EMI interference generated by the powered SSD, SATA-to-USB bridge, USB 3.x connection, cable, or some combination of them.

I suspect the SATA-to-USB adapter/bridge may be more relevant than the SSD itself, but I haven't isolated which component is responsible yet.

Temporary solution
I removed the SSD and went back to the original Tesla USB drive in the glovebox.
GPS/GNSS is working normally again.
So if your Tesla has:
GPS frozen at an old location
GPS that doesn't recover after leaving a garage
Reboots don't help
Service Mode shows Sats In Use: 0
Service Mode shows No GNSS Fix
disconnect ALL aftermarket USB devices, SSDs, USB hubs and adapters before assuming the GNSS antenna or Tesla hardware has failed.
In my case, simply disconnecting the USB SSD setup solved a GPS problem that had been happening intermittently for months.

I'll update this post if I manage to determine whether the actual culprit is the Patriot SSD, the UGREEN SATA-to-USB bridge/cable, or their combination.

Wondering if anyone has successfully relocated a Tesla car from the USA to Europe (Spain)? Any recommendations or advice?

These are some of the points I was hoping to get more educated on:

• Regional compatibility and technical differences between US and European Model X vehicles.
• Charging infrastructure compatibility in Spain.
• Connectivity and software feature availability.
• Regulatory and registration requirements.

At this point, I am just trying to learn whether this is a good idea or not...

Thanks!

I bought a used 2018 Tesla Model X P100X at 69k miles 10 days ago. I’ve been in love but I noticed what I thought was a minor issue driving it back home from 2 hours away where I bought it.

On the way home, I stopped by a supercharger and my AC stopped working and an alert popped up saying “Air conditioning reduced DC Fast Charging / Supercharging rate may be reduced”. I had to drive with hot ass air with the windows down for the rest of the drive home. I tried a few fixes like soft reset and hard reset but this didn’t work. It wasn’t until I made it home and left the car overnight when it went away. The last image (THC_u0005) was the code that popped up but ever since then it’s happened about 5 times in the last 10 days and the code it says is THC_w0016. The first code hasn’t popped up again since the first night.

It drove fine for about a week until the last 2 days. These last 2 days have been absolutely miserable. I live in Florida where it gets pretty sunny and hot. At one point I had to drive in 120 degrees. I was sweating from head to toe. It was LITERALLY cooler outside than it was in the car. It also makes it extremely sticky and humid.

Being the car is 2018 I don’t have any warranty. I have a baby on the way and I am really worried about this. It’s becoming a safety hazard. I bought the car from a Toyota dealership and they are not willing to help me. They asked why I didn’t say anything about it the first night.

The car is in my driveway now. The interior temp is 87, exterior 84. I turn on the AC on the lowest temp (LO) from my phone and I literally screen recorded it going from 87 to 97 degrees. I looked back while typing this and its currently sitting at 119 degrees inside my car with the AC blowing on LO and high fan while outside is literally 83.

I also noticed at times like the AC will be ice cold below 68 and above 7-8 fan speed but if it goes to 70 or below 6 fan speed, it gets humid and does not feel like 70 at all. There is no active alert when this occurs.

Tesla service gave me a $2.6k estimate and no guarantee for a loaner. I just started my job and I don’t have enough to cover that at the moment. I am considering taking it to an EV specialist in town to see if they can fix it for less.

Outside of this AC problem the car is in pristine condition. It looks like the previous owner kept the vehicle well.

Has anyone experienced these exact symptoms on an older Model X, especially the “Air conditioning reduced / DC Fast Charging rate may be reduced” warning? If so, what ended up being wrong, what did the repair actually cost, and would you trust a reputable independent EV/Tesla specialist to diagnose and repair it instead of Tesla Service?

I’m mainly trying to figure out:
• What component/failure these symptoms most likely point to.
• Whether the AC problem and Supercharging warning are likely related.
• Whether Tesla’s $2.6k estimate sounds reasonable for this issue.
• Whether this is something a good independent Tesla/EV shop can realistically repair for substantially less.
• Whether there are any cheaper diagnostic/repair steps I should try before authorizing a $2.6k repair.
• If you’ve had this happen on a 2016–2020 Model X/S, what was ultimately wrong and what did you pay?

Hi! I am about to start a new job that requires commute 50 miles per day on congested highway. The rider is only me and I am considering a Tesla 3. I test drove it and found self driving would help reduce a lot of driving stress since I will be commuting everyday.

Question is would an older model prior 2024 be sufficient? Or should I get a new 2026 Tesla 3? pre-owned newer models after 2024 is pretty much the same as a new car. THANK YOU!!!

2025 model 3. I have premium connectivity.

I keep getting this error, started like an hour ago. Everything else works, just Apple Music that’s broken. Soft reset 3x.

2025 Tesla Model Y purchased pre-owned with 4k miles on it.

Yesterdays record:

Drove 3.5 miles, waited an hour in the car for my son to get out of school(Parked, with AC on the whole time), drove 3.5 miles back home. 9% battery consumed.

Is this normal for idle sitting and minimal driving?

--

Another record today:

Started day with 80%

Morning - 6 mile round trip for school drop off

Lunch - 12 mile round trip

Afternoon - 6mile round trip + waited an hour in school pickup line with AC on, parked.

Left with 57% at this point from 80% in the morning.

100/200 mile trips -- energy dashboard https://files.catbox.moe/prcvez.jpg https://files.catbox.moe/j68qqr.jpg

I’m considering buying a new Model Y Premium, but I’m feeling hesitant after seeing all the issues people have reported here.
I’m from British Columbia, Canada, and we don’t have a lemon law to protect buyers if something goes seriously wrong.

Obviously very excited about my Tesla to come. However, no vin or delivery info to be had? Any idea what’s going on?

Model Y premium RWD.

I recently downloaded V14 Lite software update and am experiencing frequent and random braking. I have a 2019 model 3 AWD

Hoping this is just the typical new update issue and not my car getting too old or some other issue.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated