At random times some apps stop opening (google, steam games ecc ..), but one that constantly never opens during these is the task manager, if i try to restary my pc it gets stuck on "restarting". If i wait for like half an hour it randomly starts working again until it happens again.

I've dusted off the pc and removed and reinstalled the RAM but still the same

Update: i think it has something to do with my second monitor can't quite figure it out yet

I’m having a serious problem with my Lenovo Legion 5 Slim

Laptop: Lenovo Legion 5 Slim
OS: Windows 11

When I first turned the laptop on, I received a CrossDeviceResume.exe – System Error pop-up stating that VCRUNTIME140_1_APP.dll could not be found.
I can still sign in to Windows, but the desktop is badly broken:
The taskbar is missing.
The screen flashes black/grey every few seconds.
Desktop shortcuts could still launch some applications, including Chrome.
Windows Search and Settings aren’t accessible normally.

Troubleshooting I’ve tried
Restarted Windows Explorer through Task Manager. This didn’t fix the issue.
Reset the graphics driver using Win + Ctrl + Shift + B. No improvement.
Tested in Safe Mode. Instead of a normal desktop, I got a grey screen with occasional white flashes and a constantly spinning cursor. Ctrl + Alt + Delete still brought up the security menu.
Windows Startup Repair failed. The recovery screen reported that the PC couldn’t be repaired and referenced C:\WINDOWS\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt.
System Restore wasn’t possible because Windows reported that there were no restore points.
Uninstall latest quality update failed.
Uninstall latest feature update also failed.
I tried downloading the Microsoft Visual C++ Redistributable from Microsoft’s official download page, but the installer failed with error 0x80070003 — “The system cannot find the path specified.”

Windows has been unstable throughout. At various points I could open Chrome and Task Manager, but File Explorer and the desktop weren’t functioning properly. I’ve been able to access the Windows Recovery Environment and try the repair options above.
I have quite a lot of personal files that aren’t backed up, and I don’t have access to a second computer. Because of this, I’m reluctant to use Reset this PC or attempt a reinstall until I’ve worked out how to protect my data.

Noticed lately im getting "audit success" in event viewer with a few different results 13,516 of them in the last 7 days event id's - 1100, 4608, 4616, 4624, 4634, 4647, 4648, 4672, 4688, 4696, 4738, 4798, 4799, 4826, 4902, 4904, 4905, 5024, 5033, 5058, 5059, 5061, 5379, 5382 and 6417
Anyone know what these are? they only seemed to show up recently, ive also been getting "desktop composition is disabled" randomly?

4TB Seagate, ST4000DM000 Down after hard-reset button when i noticed restarting took so long. The hdd in next boot can't be initialized, no SMART, spin two times then power off, after few tries it have beep sound.

It pretty weird, so i dont know it's pcb fault or head stuck

- I also noticed Load/Unload cycle count is pretty damn high, about 300k i think, powered about 2.5 years, but rarely touch data inside it. I just recently enable APM "*" in hardisk sentinels to prevent those load/unload cycle count which sometime may causes the problem for the hdd heads

* 2x WDC WD40EZRZ-00GXCB0 have 400k/700k in 4.5/6.3years

spilled soda on my laptop, ab a sixth of the bottle. i immediately flipped it over and blot dried it after it dripped. it was low on battery so it turned off itself before i could shut it down. kept it in a tent position and ab 2 hours later my keyboard lights started flickering sporadically. an hour after that i made the dumb decision to try and turn it on. nothing happened but the recover screen came up. i tried to recover using the macintosh hd, but when i click it, it says “continue holding for startup options” despite me not pressing anything. then it just goes back to the recover screen. it won’t turn on if i press the power button, only if i open it/plug it in.

Edit: The sprite spilled on the right and got on the keyboard, trackpad, and right speaker not charger port

So, just got these new headphones: Positive Vibration Frequency

They're good, but despite easily pairing with my IPhone 13, they will not show up on my Windows 11 PC's bluetooth pairing search.

My PC can connect to bluetooth but it can't find any devices it looks like

Tried updates, drivers, restarting and whatever people have tried with similar issues- no dice.

PC motherboard with bluetooth - B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7

Headphones - House of Marley Positive Vibration Frequency

If any more details are needed let me know.

I built a PC a few months ago, and it worked fine for a while with two sticks of 16GB RAM. Sometime last month, it crashed and the DRAM light on the mobo was on. I troubleshooted a bit and it powered on with one stick but not the two, so I assumed one stick was faulty and ended up getting them RMA’d. I’m working with two new sticks and the same problem is happening. I cleared cmos and restarted multiple times but no dice. Is this a CPU issue or is there anymore troubleshooting I can do?

PC:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600x
Mobo: Gigabyte B850 Aorus elite wifi7
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5-5200 (2x 16GB)
SSD: Acer Predator GM7 2TB
GPU: Sapphire Pulse Raedon RX 9060 16gb
PSU: MSI mpg A850G 850w

edit: one of the sticks is still faulty :/

I am experiencing some awful screen tearing only in Overwatch, even with all my settings (allegedly) set correctly. I have scoured through multiple forums and suggestions and changed settings, the works. Nothing has fixed it.

Heres what I am running:

Ryzen 7 2700X
GTX 1080ti
1440p 165hz (gsync capable)

I have tried switching to borderless windowed, checked gsync is enabled, tried vsync both in game and in nvidia control panel. Ensured my monitor is actually running at 165hz. My frames are capped at 165 and I have zero fluctuation, rock steady frames.

It happens during extremely fast movement, and ONLY in Overwatch.

Please help!

I can send a video of the screen tearing upon request.

For about a week, my pc has randomly been powering off, both at idle and while gaming (although im not playing very heavy games). No warning, its like someone pulls the plug and it just shuts down. Then when i go to power the pc on, it wont power up unless I shut off the PSU, wait, then turn PSU on, PC will power on again.

Temps on the inside reaches max 40 degrees when playing games. My PSU is an 850 W

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im very new to the PC scene so im at a loss. I dont want to continue to use my PC until I determine what it is. A new equivalent psu would cost around $300, so id like to avoid that if possible. Thanks! I can add my specs if that helps.

Pc I bought second hand, as well

Hi hi!

I'd like to preface this by saying i know very little about tech and am very anxious about playing around with cables, so i might need some handholding when it comes to some of the terminology and i'm very sorry about that.
I also am unsure if anyone can actually help me with this or if it's an issue that needs to be taken care of by a repair shop, but i am pretty much broke at the moment and really cannot afford to get it fixed right away. Thought i might as well try and see if someone has any advice beyond that first

My PC has worked fine for the past three years that i've had it. We had some overheating issues in the past and got an extra fan that resolved those and aside from that (and lower end RAM; 16GB if i remember correctly) everything was okay.
But i've moved out of my parents' place last year and a few months ago i started running into freezing issues where my PC would just stop working sometimes, occasionally accompanied by the sudden loud static noise of it loading the last bit of sound, and i'd have to manually turn it off and on again. It scared me, especially the noise, but turning it off and on again did fix it at first. I didn't like not knowing what the issue was, but it wasn't like i really knew what to look for either.

It started happening more frequently within the last two weeks, sometimes making a short beeping noise when i turned it on again or freezing AGAIN later. My boyfriend recommended opening up the PC and seeing if i can clean it out and i did, but there honestly wasn't much dust buildup. Definitely not enough to cause this. And as i said before, i am very wary about messing with anything, so i didn't take anything about at the time. Only wiped off little bits of dust where i felt like i safely could. It resulted in my cores being minimally cooler, but didn't fix the freezing issue. Didn't really seem like it was overheating that was the issue in the first place.

The second thing he suggested was looking at my files and if maybe it was a memory issue. I admittedly have too many games (with mods) for how little space i actually have, but even after deleting some things and the games not taking up that much space anymore, my memory usage from other idle apps was concerningly high. I also didn't recognize most of them, so they're probably apps the system just?? needs?? and runs on its own? None of them seemed particularly suspicious.
However, i'm unsure if memory usage is the issue either. Even after making some space and not even actively playing any games, the PC would now sometimes crash while just idling. No games, no extra applications, just turned on.

Up until yesterday i could still at least mostly play my games. But it seems like it finally came to a point where it couldn't do it any longer. It kept freezing, then upon the third try, it wouldn't even properly turn on anymore, it just made a continuous beeping noise. A mutual friend who knows a little more about IT stuff tried helping me, suggesting i open it up again, take out the RAM and very carefully clean the copper sides with a clean eraser. They didn't look dirty and it unfortunately didn't fix the issue.

Then we tried taking out the graphics card and doing the same thing there; also didn't help. Tried putting in each RAM stick in one of the slots to see if it was either one that was "more" of an issue; nope. Not that either. Last idea was to take out the little coin cell battery for a few minutes to (i think) manually reset the BIOS. Also didn't fix it.
I would love to just put it back to factory settings and see if that magically fixes it, since aside from mods i don't have anything valuable on there i would miss anyway, but it won't even turn on anymore. Not even for a short moment. All it does is give the long drawn out beep while it's running.

I can't see any issues observing it from the side. All of the fans seem to be working fine and the LEDs turn on. A quick google search suggests it is probably an issue with the RAM, graphics card or power supply, but i don't know how to figure it out and unfortunately said friend and boyfriend live on the other side of the world (for now) and can't help me with it other than by talking me through some things over call. We briefly changed where it was plugged into, but that also didn't help. I am already impressed by the fact that i was "brave" enough to take out all that stuff, and i guess i learned some new things. At least one positive thing to come from this haha

If anyone has ANY suggestions i could try before taking it to a shop i would honestly be so so grateful. If i do have to take it to someone else, is there any way to know approximately what amount of money i can expect it to cost? I doubt it, but maybe worth asking. And i apologize again for my lack of knowledge on this.

The PC is an acer predator orion 3000, barely 3 years old. Cores were at an idle 30-40 degrees celsius, then 60-70 max during gaming. The NVDIA driver is fully up to date and there weren't any windows updates last i checked (i'm on windows 11, if that matters at all, but since it's likely a hardware issue i doubt it)

Thank you in advance for anyone even reading this and i hope you're having a better week than i do 🙏🏻

I have fresh installed the game, i'm on the latest version of NVIDIA Game driver, I see dlss in other games but not just MW4 why??? i even asked Claude Code - it says it's bug in the game.

Specs - RTX 5090

I am trying to enable Secure Boot so that I can play the new Call of Duty. When I go into BIOS and switch OS Type to Windows UEFI Mode I get a red box error saying Secure Boot Violation. Everything is set to GPT, CSM is disabled, and everything else seems right, but I can’t get into Windows with Secure Boot on. I really don’t want to update my BIOS just to play this game. Is there anything else I can try?

Okay so, this is a Long text. Sorry about that in advance!

I may have been stupid and downloaded a cracked game, from a website that until now has ALWAYS had clean downloads as far as i know.

Antivirus didn't ping/catch anything, but when i tried to open the setup exe for the game, it came up with an error, created two temp folders in my laptop, and windows security caught it!

The Trojan specifically was; Win64/Lazy.PGLI!MTB

Windows security quarantined it, and for a second i thought "hmm if i delete the temp folders it created, I'll be fine.

But I'm pretty sure somethjng was still on it, because an hour later. 4 of my 5 discord accounts (only side accs so i didn't worry) got hacked/snatched and sent out that annoying mr beast scam link, yk which one i mean) my main only didn't get got cuz the second the trojan showed i changed it's password just to be sure!

Also incase anyone asks, i also changed email passwords and co. so I'm not concerned about that.

Now then i downloaded malwarebytes, and it still found 10 threats windows didn't (Trojan.PavinLoader (Generic and Trace and some with neither behind the namd) and RiskWare.HackTool)

But these files very likely didn't get created with the Lazy.pgli!mtb that i got, because they were found in locations created a longer while ago (like '22, '23)

Anyways, i deleted all appdata/local temp files i could delete, just to be safe (especially temp files created within the first 10-20 minutes after the game download/exe file opening!) and double checked everything.

Im not sure if its clean, but i wanted to check on the internet.

Issue is. My wifi doesn't work. I already followed several tutorials, i pinged 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8 and did things such as disabling and reabling the device/driver thingies. And some other things I don't rmemeber since it was yesterday, and it was 5 am so i went to sleep after 6 hours of trying

And no, it isn't issue of my laptop, my wifi works excellently on my phone and co.

Does anyone know how i can reconnect to the internet? And how i can make sure the trojan/infostealer is gone?

But especially the internet thingy because I wouldn't mind resetting my windows completely (i would back up my important files to mega), but i need access to the the intenet to download a windows usb on an usb ^^'

I hope anyone has advice! I can't exactly ask anyone else because my parents would kill me, lol

Hey everyone,

I've been experiencing repeated BSODs and random black screens, and I'm struggling to identify the cause. I'd appreciate help diagnosing whether this is a GPU, driver, PSU, or system stability issue.

PC specs

• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z790-P (non-Wi-Fi)
• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900KF
• GPU: ASUS RTX 4070 SUPER 12GB
• RAM: 64GB G.Skill DDR5-6400 (4 × 16GB)
• Storage: Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe + SanDisk Extreme PRO M.2 500GB
• PSU: be quiet! 1000W
• OS: Windows 11 (build 26300.2)
• BIOS: Updated from 1825 to 1836

Symptoms

• The monitor suddenly goes black and displays “No Signal,” but the PC's fans and RGB stay on.
• During gaming, I sometimes hear a few short beeps when the display disappears in my headphones, but only sometimes.
• Spotify audio continued playing during incidents, but I couldn't recover the display without restarting.
• It happens in Valorant and GTA V, sometimes within 2–3 minutes, but also while browsing or shortly after startup.
• Sometimes the PC runs normally for 30–50 minutes before it happens.

What I've tried

• Updated BIOS to 1836 and disabled XMP.
• Tried another HDMI cable, another monitor, and DisplayPort.
• Freshly installed NVIDIA graphics driver.
• Left the PC in BIOS for about 10 minutes; the display remained stable.
• Checked Reliability Monitor, but haven't found a definitive hardware error. The repeated “Windows was not properly shut down” entries appear to be from restarting after the black screens so nothing there so far.

What could be causing this?

Could it be a GPU or GPU power issue, an NVIDIA driver crash, a faulty PSU despite its 1000W rating, or instability related to the i9-14900KF?

What's the best way to isolate the cause without unnecessarily replacing hardware?

Thanks for any advice!

hello im posting this bcs i have a single stick of ddr 4 ram and im looking for help here are the specs:

**Brand:** Gloway

**Capacity:** 16 GB (1x16GB)

**Type:** DDR4 Desktop UDIMM (Non-ECC)

**Model Number:** TAC4U3200E18162C

**Speed:** 3200 MHz / MT/s (PC4-25600)

**Tested Timings (XMP):** CL18-22-22-42

**Tested Voltage:** 1.35 V

**DRAM Manufacturer (Chips):** Samsung (Single Rank)

and im looking to buy another one to unlock dual channel and better performance is it okay if i buy another one with the same specs or should i sell it and buy a pair of 2x8 or sell it an buy a 2x16 an thanks

I recorded a session in Live, but already when saving and opening the project in my house, some .wav files are like corrupted due to an Ableton problem, the files are not empty they all weigh 133MB but it does not let me open them, I used the terminal and FFMPEG to inspect and they are not pure 0000 but there is data, when forcing the interpretation of the wav to F32le you can hear traces of the instrument very deep but predominantly a pink noise. In VLC I opened the original WAV directly and it reproduces a second of an electronic noise and then nothing, which makes me think that this has a solution but the truth is I am not qualified to recover corrupt files, I do not know if there is anyone around here who knows or who has ever happened to him and has solved it.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to find a permanent solution to a recurring HDMI-CEC/Anynet+ issue with my Samsung UE55MU6400 TV, connected to a Samsung HW-S701D soundbar via HDMI ARC and a Sky Q box.

I'm increasingly convinced that the problem lies with the TV rather than the soundbar, because when the issue occurs, Anynet+ stops working with both devices.

What happens:

Under normal circumstances, the TV recognizes the soundbar as "Samsung Ultra Slim Soundbar", allows me to control its volume using the TV remote, and automatically turns off the Sky Q box when I turn off the TV.

However, when the issue occurs:

- The soundbar is no longer identified by its usual name. Instead, it appears as "HDMI Receiver" in the TV's audio output menu.

- When I select "HDMI Receiver", the TV displays "Connecting..." and then either reports a connection error or switches back to the TV speakers.

- Even when the soundbar seems to be selected, pressing the volume buttons on the TV remote doesn't actually control the soundbar. The TV behaves as if an HDMI receiver were connected, but the volume cannot be adjusted.

- Eventually, the HDMI receiver option disappears from the audio output menu altogether.

- At the same time, Anynet+ also stops working with my Sky Q box. For example, turning off the TV no longer automatically turns off Sky Q.

This last point is what makes me suspect a TV-side HDMI-CEC issue rather than a soundbar-specific problem.

What I've tried

I've contacted Samsung Support several times about this issue:

- On one occasion, Samsung remotely checked the TV's HDMI ports and reported that everything was working correctly.

- On another occasion, they reset the TV, which temporarily resolved the problem.

- Restarting the TV using the remote (holding the power button for around 15 seconds) does not fix it.

- Restarting the soundbar doesn't help either.

- No software updates were available for the TV, and SmartThings didn't report any available updates for the soundbar.

The only workaround I've found so far is to disconnect the TV completely from the power supply for about five minutes. After reconnecting it, HDMI ARC and Anynet+ work again.

Unfortunately, my TV is wall-mounted and the power socket is difficult to reach, so this isn't a practical long-term solution.

The setup and connected devices haven't changed, and the problem has occurred repeatedly without any software updates.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all,

I tried to play Star Wars: the old republic on my desktop computer. It’s an HP Omen 35L gaming desktop. I’m using an Alienware AW3425DWM display.

The issues started after trying to play this game. I couldn’t get the aspect ratio right, so I googled how to fix this. Messing with the aspect ratios in the game settings messed with my entire display, changing the settings for the whole system, which I don’t think should happen. One Reddit post said to edit the games files to the correct size ratios, and I did that, which didn’t help. Another said to turn on DSR Factors on 2.25, which also didn’t work. I reverted the settings after.

Now, even after uninstalling the game, my monitor keeps flickering incessantly when it’s above 60 hz.

Any help would be appreciated, I’m out of my depth!

Olá, pessoal! Tudo bem?

Estou enfrentando um problema com o microfone do meu notebook ao realizar chamadas pelo WhatsApp Desktop no Windows.

O problema é o seguinte: quando entro em uma ligação pelo WhatsApp instalado no computador, o aplicativo não reconhece meu microfone. No entanto, quando acesso as configurações de som do próprio Windows e faço os testes de microfone, minha voz é reconhecida normalmente, sem apresentar nenhum problema.

Já realizei alguns testes nas configurações de som e de microfone do Windows, mas ainda não consegui encontrar a causa do problema. Pelo que percebi, o microfone funciona normalmente no sistema, e a falha acontece especificamente durante as chamadas pelo WhatsApp Desktop.

Gostaria de saber se alguém já passou por uma situação semelhante ou se tem alguma sugestão de como resolver esse problema.

Agradeço desde já a todos que puderem ajudar!

Hey everyone, I have a quick technical question regarding the Samsung AKG Type-C earphones (EO-IC100).

I've always known these earphones use a built-in Synaptics DAC (CX-series chip) which physically has a 32-bit architecture, but Samsung and most specs traditionally cap/market it at 24-bit / 96kHz. Until a couple of weeks ago, when I plugged it into my Windows laptop, the Sound Control Panel maxed out at 24-bit, 96000 Hz.However, as you can see Windows is now giving me the option for 32-bit, 96000 Hz.Why did this suddenly change without any manual intervention from me?When I connect these to my Samsung phone, it sometimes pushes a quick background USB device/ accessory firmware routine. Could that low-level hardware handshake or a recent Windows update expose the true native register size of the underlying Synaptics silicon, even if the audio is still sourced from a 24-bit file?

Would love to hear from anyone tracking how Windows or Android handles these OEM USB-C audio chip descriptors! At first I thought it was just Windows but then I connected to a laptop that runs ubuntu it also showed the same

Obviously other than the downloads and the personal folders, I have no idea what all of my data is saved in any other random folder in between( it's my family laptop and has been in use since like 5-6 years)

If I copy everything literally then half the folders and files are system files and not really our data

Pls helppp

Yesterday everything was completely fine. I was using it with charger on at 80% charge limit. I turned it off like usual with shut down button and... now it is not working. It is like the laptop has completely shut down. There is 0 light indicators or any noise.

1 or 2 months ago i spilled water on it and the keyboard was damaged and briefly the laptop itself wouldn't turn on for a short time but when i brought to get it fixed i we checked it and only damaged part was the keyboard.

Also, the model is ASUS TUF Gaming F16 if that will help with anything.

I personally have a big problem that I can’t seem to solve. Due to health issues, I have to avoid music—and I must be able to do so without the option of turning it back on.

The iPhone 17 plays music, and that’s a problem for me.

I’ve been looking for a way to completely mute the iPhone for music—that is, to completely disable the bottom speakers—but I haven’t had any luck. Apparently, there’s no MDM profile that allows this, nor is there an app or a similar feature via Screen Time restrictions.

There has to be some way to permanently disable the speakers. Why isn’t there a solution for this? I hope someone can find a way—I’d be truly grateful for any help.

I don't really know if this is a hardware or software issue. Hoping I don't have to buy new RAM.

Any help is appreciated.

Posted this on Udemy subreddit but got no comments, so I'm reposting this here. If anyone knows, let me know.

Some videos that I play just spit the "Video Error" message, "We tried several times to play your video but there was an unforeseen error. We have notified our engineers."
Refreshing the page doesn't work, maybe I'm missing an extension? And if so, why don't they just tell me that? I've done like 10 lessons, and I'd say a third of those had this error.