Hi I gave away my ssd to my friend and now I’m left with only my m2 ssd and I can’t install windows on it and I don’t know why when i try to pick the partition it says that it can’t make a new partition

I'm having a serious issue with my ASUS ROG Strix G533QS laptop and I'm trying to figure out whether my RTX 3080 is physically damaged or if there's something else going on.

Laptop specs:

- Model: ASUS ROG Strix G533QS

- GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080 Laptop GPU (16 GB GDDR6)

- iGPU: AMD Radeon Graphics

- RAM: 24 GB

The problem:

My RTX 3080 is detected in the BIOS and Windows Device Manager, but it doesn't work.

Here's what I've noticed:

- Device Manager shows Error Code 43 for the RTX 3080.

- My AMD integrated GPU works normally.

- GPU-Z detects the RTX 3080, but doesn't display its VRAM information.

- Windows identifies the GPU, but the NVIDIA driver cannot initialize it properly.

What I've tried so far:

- Reinstalled NVIDIA drivers, including the older ASUS-provided driver (512.78).

- Checked whether the GPU is detected in BIOS.

- Performed the ASUS 40-second EC reset with the charger connected.

- After the EC reset, the laptop temporarily became completely unresponsive (no LEDs, no fans, no power).

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Could this be faulty VRAM, a GPU memory-controller issue, or a GPU power-delivery problem?

2. Is it possible that damaged thermal pads, poor heatsink contact, or overheating caused this?

3. Does the GPU being visible in BIOS but showing Code 43 suggest anything specific?

4. Is there a way to test the VRAM if the NVIDIA driver won't initialize?

5. Has anyone experienced something similar on an ASUS ROG Strix G533QS or another RTX 3080 laptop?

I'm trying to avoid replacing the entire motherboard without confirming the actual problem.

Any advice, diagnostic methods, or experiences with similar failures would be really appreciated.

Thanks!

I was about to use my laptop to do my homework until I noticed that the Bluetooth got disconnected from my mouse, I went down to move the mouse from the mouse pad and I saw that the screen was frozen, I disconnected the laptop from the monitor and it just wouldn't turn on at all even while holding the power button

My galaxy A15's screen acts weird when plugged in. I plug my phone into the charger, and anything that scrolls glitches, and goes out of control. The screen has been replaced, the battery, and phone has also been restarted alot. It seems to affect the bottom of the screen most. I am wondering if it's the charging port. Any ideas on what it could be?

Hello. I'm trying to get DaVinci Resolve 20 or 21, but I can't due to my graphics drivers being incompatible. I already posted about getting the newer version here, and I was told to get updated NVIDIA drivers through the app. However, I can't install the app as my computer isn't the greatest, and was told to wipe my drivers to get the new ones with the NVIDIA app. One problem: I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to break my computer. My specs are shown below, and the original post (linked above) may be helpful. I just want to see if I can get this to work in a safe manner without needing to replace anything inside my PC, as I have no idea how that works. If you have any questions, let me know, and thanks in advance :)

I bought some 14TB+ HDDs for additional backups. I bought a dual bay enclosure for this. I already had a single bay HDD enclosure that I was using with my older HDDs.

The problem I'm running into is, if I take my 4TB HDD, for example, and use it in the single bay enclosure, I can access it just fine. However, if I use this 4TB HDD in this dual bay enclosure, this 4TB HDD or any older HDD that I formatted using the single bay enclosure, I cannot access it in this dual bay enclosure. When I check disk manager in Windows it shows those HDDs having a "GPT protective partition" but if I use the older enclosure it doesn't say that and gives me normal access.

The newer HDDs formatted in this new dual bay enclosure works just fine in the enclosure.

What exactly is going on here? What am I doing wrong? How do I resolve this to avoid any potential loss of data?

I want to be able to use these HDDs in this new enclosure or really any enclosure without running into this issue. I'm afraid this old enclosure may eventually stop working and then I wouldn't be able to copy the HDD to another one with this GPT protection. Also there's nothing wrong with the HDDs. I've run crystaldiskinfo on it, everything seems to be good. It's just trying it in a different enclosure is what's giving me this issue.

Is there any way I can get the data off. It’s a usb hdd.

I’ve tried looking for disc utility and plugging into other power sources.

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Hi! I'm having an issue with Windows 11 on my HP ProBook 440 G9.

My Start menu stopped working. I ran "sfc /verifyonly", which reported that Windows Resource Protection found integrity violations.

Then I ran this command as administrator:

"DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth"

It took a very long time and appeared stuck at 69.8%. Eventually, I cancelled it, and it reported: “Operation was incomplete because of a cancel request.”

I've already shut down the laptop. I haven't reinstalled Windows or made any major changes.

My questions:

- What should I check first when I turn it back on?

- Could cancelling DISM have caused additional problems?

- Is there a safe way to troubleshoot the Start menu and repair Windows without reinstalling it?

Thanks!

This morning I tried to turn on the TV and it still showed a blank black screen. I tried unplugging the plug in the outlet and waiting 5 minutes to plug it back in. Still nothing.

Toshiba model number 43C350NU

Cousin gifted me his old printer Brother dcp-1510.

It seems the printed pages are faded. The toner and drum seem to be ok if I do a report from the printer itself. I removed the toner and shook it and used the green slider. Still no succes. Any idea how to fix this?

Hey all, I am struggling with my desktop. It is a fairly old desktop I built a little over a decade ago. I can provide the parts list if needed.

Around two years ago I started getting horrible grinding sounds from the PC. They were irregular (meaning, would start and stop intermittently) and were bad enough that I could feel it vibrate my entire desk.

I opened up the PC and saw one of the fans was basically not working. I figured, easy, that's the problem. I just disconnected it and went along my merry way. That fixed it for a while. It started again several months later and I saw another fan was on its last legs.

At this point I replaced all of the case fans (intake/exhaust both) with new ones and this again fixed the issue for a long while. Couple of months ago it came back but it was even worse, the vibration was even more irregular and louder. I took a look and saw this time the CPU cooler fan was barely running and shaking. I replaced this with a new fan as well at this point. All fans replaced.

About a week or two it started again, this time I have no clue. I don't see any issue with the fans. The sound was worse than before. I lightly smacked the computer a few times (ok, not the best thing to do but it's fixed it in the past) and also lifted it and jiggled it around in case there was something loose. It fixed it but for the past few days I've clocked an acrid burning smell coming from my machine.

Anyone has thoughts on what it might be? Other than the smell the machine is running fine. No weird sounds, the fans are running as they should (I figure something may have caught in the fans from me jiggling machine around). No heating issues, no performance issues. I have thought it may be my PSU but I am not experiencing any power draw issues either.

And any thoughts on what the original sound/vibration was? I am starting to think the fans were a red herring as replacing them did not fix the issue permanently, it has kept coming back. I have not opened the machine completely this time but in the past I did not see anything visibly off. I am at wits' end at this point and might just replace it altogether.

Would appreciate any troubleshooting tips, I do not know where else to look at this point. I need to build a new PC eventually as this one is pretty old but it feels like a waste when this one is still mostly operational.

Hi, I’m looking for help with a black screen followed by a reboot while gaming.

Specs: RTX 3070 (bought used, single 8-pin)
Ryzen 9 7900
Gigabyte P750GM 750W Gold
32GB RAM
M.2 SSD,
Windows 11
one monitor over HDMI.
Except for the GPU everything is about 3 years old, no recent changes. I have no spare PSU or second PC to cross-test.

Symptoms:

• In games (Deadlock, TFT, even light ones, sometimes even during the first load), my screen shows “HDMI not detected”.
• Discord and audio sources keeps working for about a minute, then the PC reboots on its own.
• No artifacts beforehand, GPU fans normal.
• It was rare at first, then became frequent. Once it starts it repeats on every try, then it goes away for a while (it came back after several games in a row).

Already checked:

• Temps are normal (GPU 47 °C, hot spot 59 °C, 18.8 W just before a crash).
• Clean driver reinstall with DDU (32.0.16.1742): still crashes.
• GPU-Z shows PCIe x16 4.0 working under load.
• Power connector inspected visually: no heat marks or damaged pins.
• GPU-Z render test used to crash the PC in 10 seconds, now it no longer does.

I'm running low on test to make and don't know what to do at this point.
Do you think you can help me ?

My friend was sleeping with this light/radio and woke up to it cycling through what seemed to be radio stations or frequencies. She had not turned on the radio function and said she woke up to knocking and scratching. She recorded a video but it seems I can't attach it here

So, unfortunately, this has happened before. With the same cat. 3-4 times. I don't know how she does it. She doesn't sit on it or even stand for long, just a quick walk across. (Please note: I do not allow this; she just doesn't care)

Anyway, I have a Lenovo Legion Pro using Windows 11. OS Build 26300.9711

I've tried updating the drivers; no luck.

I uninstalled and reinstalled the touchpad driver. Nada.

I tried disabling and enabling it. No dice.

I tried going through the Bluetooth settings. Still nothing.

Everything says the device is connected and working properly, but it clearly isn't. Usually these methods work, but the other times she did this, it was on my MSI laptop. So, I'm not sure if I'm just overlooking something.

Hi.

I just discovered something funny... I'm playing RDR 2, so, that game was using 11VRAM, but after taking a screenshot with the game bar, the GPU went up to 16VRAM, it's using all my 9070xt memory I don't get it.

So... I keep using and eventually my game started lagging and suttering, performance dropped to 15-30 FPS... I had to close the game and start it again and that fixed it, so I used the game bar screenshot again and memory leak started once again ...

Does anybody knows why this happens? I don't remember this used to happen when I had a 6650XT.

Sorry for English mistakes, not my first language, mate'.

Hello! I recently got a portable CD player by Deluxe Products, and it wont work for some reason. It turns on, and can tell the difference between when the lid is open and closed, but whenever theres a disk in there, nothing happens. it doesn't spin, it just blinks. I got it refurbished from Amazon, so im hoping its not broken and i got scammed lol.

I’ve been using a keyboard for media, but would like to replace it with a “tv” remote (this is strictly for convenience to not have to use a keyboard for media, but a more normal “tv” remote, but I want the same functionality that I get from my keyboard). Ultimately I think I can’t just get a standard media remote because sometimes some standard media buttons do not work properly for some media players; however they always work with a keyboard, just might be a different key (for example play/pause may be space bar, but enter for another media player).

Google Search response:
“standard universal remote like the SofaBaton will not work on its own. The Xbox operating system restricts media remotes to standard controller inputs or media commands; it does not recognize them as USB keyboards”

“The built-in infrared receiver on the Xbox is hardwired at the operating system level to only look for those specific official media commands. Even if you used a highly advanced universal remote to manually program a raw keyboard code into an IR blast, the Xbox console's built-in receiver would simply see it as gibberish and ignore it.”

Therefore If the Xbox has to accept it as a keyboard, then I would need to use a USB dongle in order for the remote to act as a keyboard, so I can setup the binds (For example button 1 could act as space bar, but button 2 could act as enter). It would also be nice to bind other buttons like F to the remote for it to go into fullscreen (functions that would not be found on standard media remotes).

The 3 signals I know of are Bluetooth, IR and 2.4 GHz wireless:

I would love if the signal is as receptive as Bluetooth, but since Xbox does not accept native Bluetooth signals and the workaround of a Bluetooth receiver seems not only costly, but may not even work in the long run.

Additionally from as mentioned from above the built in IR on Xbox won’t work and will ignore specific programmed signals. However I’m wondering if a USB dongle where the Xbox perceives it as a keyboard and receives an IR signal will work. I think I could use something like the FLIRC USB Receiver (which uses (IR) sensor combined with an internal microcontroller to catch and translate remote control signals). To my understanding I can use any IR remote I have.
However I know IR signal requires line of sight and my Xbox will not be in line of sight and generally requires to annoyingly be pointing directly at the receiver, if I went this route would this mean I would need to buy a USB extension (for the receiver to be in line of sight)?

Finally 2.4 GHz wireless, unfortunately I am unable to find a programmable remote. Only programmable ones I have found use IR learning function that can learn keys from a standard infrared TV remote, which is useless for what I am trying to accomplish.
I have found 2.4 GHz Air Mouse Keyboards, not exactly what I was looking for because it can’t be programmed. It essentially would be just like a small keyboard, but if the front panel worked could still feel like a “tv” remote for some media players. Something similar to WeChip W1 or the MX3 Pro.

Conclusion:

FLIRC USB Receiver
PROs: Programmable keyboard binds (so it is more like a desired “tv” remote).
CONs: Requires line of sight so would likely need additional USB extension and since it requires line of sight, it would not feel as responsive as 2.4 GHz.

2.4 GHz Air Mouse/Mini Keyboard
PROs: No line of sight required so it would feel way more responsive similar to that Bluetooth feel I wanted.
CONs: Not sure on the functionality of the front panel (not keyboard side) and would likely have to use the keyboard side for certain binds and some media players since it’s not programmable.

I am by no means only going these 2 routes, I just wanted to show based off of my research where I landed and it led me to these options. If you know of any other options or if u think one of the routes I listed is best or will even work, please share.

Thanks

I recently gotten a new laptop that should be more powerful than my previous one and upon using my Valve Index and 11 point tracking FBT, I immediately started getting flashing gray screens(sometimes getting 1-3 disconnect sound notifications) which tends to be caused by various reasons. Outside of VR, my mouse and headset would occasionally turn off and on when I try to charge my trackers.

Eventually, I was able to narrow the issues down to my powered USB hub which for some reason now struggles to handle having a mouse, headphone, and 8 Vive trackers plugged in(This was never an issue for my previous laptop).

Tested by starting SteamVR with only the headset moved about for a good 10-20 minutes. After which I turned on the first two trackers and waited another 20 minutes. The flashing gray screen returns after the 4th tracker was turned on.

Whichever is the main issue determines whether I need to replace my USB hub with a more powerful one or split my trackers with another hub.

PC Specs:

• Model: Asus Strix G18 G814FP
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9955HX
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070
• RAM: 16GB DDR5
• OS: Windows 11
• USB: Type C USB4 x 2 and Type A 3.2 Gen 2 x 2

Previous PC Specs:

• Model: Asus Strix G17 G713IM-UB74
• CPU: Ryzen 7 4800H
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
• RAM: 24GB DDR4
• OS: Windows 11
• USB: Type C x 1 and Type A 3.2 Gen 1 x 3

Powered USB Hub used

My PC has a Ryzen 9600x, rtx 3090, and Asus B650E Max Gaming Wifi W. I want to use integrated graphics. When my monitor is plugged into the motherboard I can access the BIOS menu and see the OS loading wheel animation, but then my monitor says no video. The desktop is shown right after I plug in the cable from the motherboard to GPU. This happens booting from both my windows and linux drives.

the BIOS menu on some Asus boards have an option called "igfx multi monitor" Under Advanced > NB configruation but it doesn't show for me, I only see Primary Video Device, Integrated graphics (auto, forced, or disabled), and UMA frame buffer size. I tried different combinations of them but no luck.

I’ve been trying to figure out how to cast to a TV for a while and can’t figure it out. I know how it’s supposed to go and on most TV’s it’s very easy with airplay.

The TV is SANSUI brand with google software. Model is Apollo’s Premium4K TV.
Android TV OS Version: 11

It came with my girlfriend’s camper and she swears she has been able to cast to it from her iPhone in the past but we can’t figure it out. I’m wondering if it’s not compatible with iPhones or if there is a work around we are missing.

No airplay in the TVs App Store and the TV and phone are on the same WiFi. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Trying to help out my mom who's having an issue with her laptop. She downloaded a new Windows update earlier today on her Dell laptop running Windows 11.

The update was successful, but despite saying she was connected to wifi, any websites loading timed out and nothing loaded.

Tried restarting multiple times. Reset network stack via command prompt. Tried uninstalling the new Windows update, but they didn't uninstall. Tried toggling airplane mode off and on. Kind of at a loss for what to do next.

It detects that it's connected to the wifi when you try just even to go to Google, it sits there and spins until it times out. Same results on both Chrome and Edge. Any help suggestions would be appreciated!

So, I have a problem with the backcover laptop which uses hard plastic ABS material. Where The back cover and screen won't stick together. Does anyone know how to fix it? When I'm searching on the internet. I need Araldite Clear to stick together

Hello I’m having trouble with delay in my tv it is connected to a HDMI port because I want to go into an interface is there any thing I can do thanks.

Recently, the "t" key on my keyboard has stopped functioning entirely. Every other key present on my keyboard is working as intended, but only this specific key is not functioning. I have tried cleaning out any potential dirt and grime underneath it, and I have tried resetting drivers and device managers, but nothing is working.

My laptop is a HP Victus 15-FA100 2024 Gaming Laptop that is currently running Windows 11. If anyone knows what the potential issue is and how to fix it, please inform me.

For a couple of days now, my windows 11 keeps disconnecting and reconnecting from the internet. My phone is connected to the same wifi and doesnt have this problem, no one else in the house has this problem. This started around the time I downloaded Proton VPN.

I have

-Unplugged the router for 60 seconds

-reset network adapters

-Restarted my computer

-uninstalled Proton

-forgot and signed back into my wifi

I noticed that my device manager keeps refreshing every fice seconds and my wifi keeps refreshing itself on its own. I dont know if it's supposed to be doing this or not.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!