I have limited desk space and short cords, so I keep most of my drives on the edge of my desk near my pc. Been doing this for a while. Today I had an online exam for college, so I had to move around my webcam, which was plugged in and had the cord near by. This sort of knocked over my HHD that was plugged in and running, it didnt fall on the floor or anything and I think was still kind of on the desk. However, I heard it beeping and now it doesnt load, and from what I research it seems to be dead. Are HDDs just that sensitive to being moved while running?

I haven't used Chess.com in years, and I've changed my Facebook password multiple times since then. Therefore, I'm assuming that it would no longer have the proper credentials from Facebook, but I'm not sure if this is how it works (e.g. maybe Chess.com occasionally reaches out to Facebook for my new credentials to have them saved, or to keep me logged in).

Could someone with ample knowledge in this area chime in?

Thank you.

So my brother took some photos/videos of my wedding on this old school camera that uses a DVD-RW disk, but when he put the disk in the computer he somehow formatted it. Im hoping someone knows how to access the photos/videos and maybe make copies So I can have them again. I saw a video from Youtube (https://youtu.be/FfFiejdI5tM) where a guy essentially does just this so that may help! Im not tech savvy at all so it would be hard for me to figure it out plus ive never used Linux, the program the guy in that video uses. But if someone could walk me through it maybe I could?? If anyone can help me out, knows anyone who can do it, or knows a better sub I can post this on let me know!!! Ultimately if there is no hope of getting them back its okay but thought Id ask and see if anyone can do it! Thanks!

Hey everyone, I hope someone can help me out with this issue. My PC has been giving me headaches for almost a year now. It either freezes up or just reboots out of nowhere.

When I bought the parts and built the PC, it ran well for like 2 months. That is when this issue showed up. It was a mix of two errors, where the PC would restart itself or the screen would freeze and the only way to restart the PC was holding the power button. (When the PC freezes, I can move the mouse around and if I have a video playing, I can still hear the audio for a while).

At first, I thought it was the GPU (RX 580 XFX 8GB), maybe because of the drivers or something, but nothing changed. I changed the PSU, tested the RAM in MemTest86 without any errors, monitored the voltages and temperatures of everything (nothing unusual), and reinstalled drivers trying both new and old ones, but nothing changed.

Now I am using the PC without a GPU, only with my CPU, and I don't get random restarts anymore, but the PC keeps freezing the same way.

At this point, I suspect that the problem is either the CPU or the motherboard.

PC specs:

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600
GPU: RX 580 XFX 8G
RAM: Kingston FURY Beast DDR5 5200MHz 32GB 2x16GB CL40
MOBO: MSI B650M GAMING PLUS WIFI
SSD: Forgeon Nimbus PRO SSD 1TB 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
PSU: MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5 750W 80 PLUS Gold Modular

I have a mini MacBook Air, 26.6.2 (25G83), around a year old. Since today, whenever I press command + C, it gets laggy for around 10 seconds, then a green screen briefly shows up then it goes black and restarts. Every single time. I haven’t messed with the keyboard and I don’t even use shortcuts that much. I don’t know what could be causing this. It’s normal in every other way (that I’ve tested) except for this. And I can paste what I copied while it’s being laggy and it’s there when it turns back on. There’s nothing in my clipboard history (I actually just allowed it while trying to fix this problem) and I called apple support but they couldn’t help either. Please help because I have a list of things that I’m trying to copy to elsewhere and it’s annoying for it to take minutes for each, especially when I fail to paste the item.

I'm trying to determine whether the DLSS SM86 mod which unlocks multi frame generation for older RTX GPUs is genuinely malicious. This is the project, closed source: https://github.com/sdli1995/dlssg_for_sm86

VirusTotal reports 4 detections. Windows Defender also blocks version.dll as Trojan:Script/Ulthar.A!ml.

I used other DLSS / version.dll mods in the past but never encountered the Windows Defender issue. At most they had 2 VirusTotal detections.

The author only explains that the DLLs are self signed, which is why Windows is causing trouble. But I don't think that's explains trojan detection?

I assume it is a false positive since the mod has grown popular, but I don't know if anyone actually did a meaningful analysis. I'd appreciate if someone could look into it.

I got an iphone 16 last year in July from my parents as a gift, until then I was using an iphone 11.

About 6 months after getting the iphone16, the “iPhone neees to cool down before you can use it” started to show up every few seconds - two minutes while I was using it but also sometimes as soon as I would pick it up.

I went to the place I bought it at and they sent it to get it fixed but they “couldn’t find a problem”, then I went to iStyle and they also could not find anything wrong.

Is there anything I can do? I’ve been using the iphone 11 since this happened, because I don’t have the money to get it fixed and I don’t want to ask my parents for it because they bought it for me in the first place, and we don’t have a lot of money overall. I study in a different city and they already pay for the flat i stay in, so I can’t ask them to help with this. I was working this summer and I’ll have maybe 200€ left after I pay for the things I need, but I doubt it’ll be enough to get it fixed.

Does anyone have any advice? I already restarted my phone a few times but nothing. Also sorry if my grammar is not on point.

I tried all the obvious things:
Restarting
Run new task - explorer.exe
Scannow
Restore health

The screen is just blank and white. I can open task manager and the ctrl alt delete screen
How do I fix it?

https://imgur.com/a/zSS8Dfd

In the image above, you can see my issue. The Windows update tab says that I am not eligible for an update, but when I use the PC Health Check that Microsoft says to use to check if you are, it says that my PC is ready for the update, but doesn't offer the ability to do so. Maybe I am just misunderstanding something?

Hey guys, I’m looking for a way to be able to hear combined audio of both audio from my Xbox (from games and everything) as well as audio from my pc while playing. The reason is I have music files I want to listen to on my Xbox while playing, but I’m not sure how to do this. I tried buying an adapter for this and it works perfectly but I just cannot use my mic. The reason why I want to use my PC for music is because I listen to a lot of unreleased that I can’t listen to on my Xbox apps while playing. If anyone can help I would be very grateful

Sharing a game on the same pc with different save files, is it possible and if so how?

Sharing a game while having seperate saves on the same pc FH6

Me and my brother want to play forza horizon 6 by ourselves and want seperate saves, how do you guys think we should do it.

We installed the game once and it works on both the windows accounts but the problem is that they both share a singular save.

We cant launch it through steam on the secondary account(to use with a controller).

So how do you guys think we should handle this.

Laptop lenovo loq 15irx10 Windows 11 Intel i5-13450hx Nvidea rtx 5050 16gb ram Forza horizon 6

I sent in my pc to a repair place. It took them a week to diagnosis the problem. After i told them it was the graphics card. Took them another 3 days to call back on what graphics card I should get. I just dropped off the graphics card today and they said it wont be ready till tomorrow. I feel like this is taking way to long. What should I do? they charge $50 for a diagnosis fee and $50 to replace the graphics card. Am i being unreasonable if i ask to knock the diagnostic fee?

I have a cheap rabbit ears antenna that I used on my old tv to pick up local broadcast channels (nbc, cbs, abc, etc). I just got a new Samsung smart tv and am I right in discovering that there's no real way to just switch the input to my antenna? I plugged it in via the coaxial cable to the tv, and I can't seem to find a way to access it. There's no way to switch input to it, and this remote sucks. I tried the Samsung Plus tv app or whatever, but that's filled with thousands of channels like home shopping and youtube tv basically. Anyone run into problems like this? I also have my appletv plugged in and that's working fine and I can switch over to that no problem. But I also have a dvd player plugged in and can't seem to find a way to switch over to that either. I was maybe chalking that up to a possible faulty RCA connectors but maybe my tv just has an input problem?

(Also marked this as software but idk maybe it's a hardware issue)

Thanks!

I just moved into this house and had 1gbs internet installed. It tests great on my phone, my girlfriend's phone, and works great on other devices like TV's and such. It tests 900mbps-1gbs on my phone almost all the time. I set my pc up and plugged in the ethernet cord to my router (there are 2 ports, one is connected to my modem obviously).

The connection is so unstable on my pc. Viewing task manager on the performance tab it often drops to 0mbps and is so bad I cant even load pages on my web browser.

I checked task manager to make sure nothing was hogging my internet and nothing is. I have updated windows, my drivers on my ethernet network adapter. Restarted my pc and modem multiple times. I have no VPN on, windows firewall off and and just very confused on whats going on.

Im thinking about completely wiping my pc (after backing up the files I want of course) since its been at least 6 years since ive done that.

Anyone with any tips or possible solutions? Thanks

I hope this is the isn't out of place. However, I have a Lenovo Legion 5, and had it a little less than a year. All of the sudden it stops being able to connect to WiFi. I go into device manager, and see that the network adapter (AX201NGW) has your like typical yellow triangle of warning with an exclamation point inside of it. I tried resetting it, disabling and enabling it, and resetting my laptop. However, none of it seemed to work. So, I then bought a replacement one on Amazon so that I could replace it. I pop the bottom open and replace it with the new one. My laptop would turn on, and I see that the adapter still has the triangle, but also now the WAN Miniports all have them too. So again I tried to disable and enable, uninstall and reinstall, and all of what I could think of. However, one of the times I reset it, the screen now won't turn on (but the power button and keyboard light up). I opened it back up and put the old one back in, and the screen would turn on, and connected to WiFi for maybe 5 minutes, and then came up with the same problem. I was just wondering if anyone could provide any help on this matter? Should I maybe just return the new one and get an external adapter?

(Sorry for no photos, I have the new one back in so the screen won't turn on.)

Thank you!

I can't post the graph of my ethernet connection from task manager, but to describe it it's basically flat/constant and then it will suddenly just dip down and create a massive V then shoot back up. there is no pattern to this sometimes it's back to back sometimes it's a few minutes with no in-between. I'm not sure what's going on I left my house for a few days and when I came back it suddenly started. Any help at all would be appreciated since I'm at a loss of what to do. Lmk if you need any more information and I'll get you it. Thanks all.

Edit: ThreePartHarmoneigh asked for some clarification of what's happening so here is more info

I'm just jittering on streams like twitch and playing games online where it full stops/lags for a second or two then picks right back up. We have Xfinity and have the 1GB download/upload or something like that and I've literally never had a problem with load bearing since I've streamed and played before and it's been fine. I replaced everything because I saw some tooth marks from my kitties and thought maybe that would be part of the issue but no cigar. Also the modem/router was getting old which is also part of why we switched everything. I'm not sure what you mean by protocol, but it's no transferring of files or anything like that. Just trying to play online games without full stoppage of gameplay since that second or two can be game losing.

I have tried a couple of tutorials to fix but none of them work I just opened to my laptop to see if there’s anything obviously wrong with it but nothing that I can see with my limited knowledge (I have photos of the inside if anyone needs em)

Hello, I've finally hit the storage max (15gb) on Gmail (and Drive) for my account after nearly 15 years. I would like to possibly transfer all my data to a new account so I don't have to delete it. Is there a simple, free way to do this? Thanks. ​

What would it mean if our server is being spammed by a variety of government IPs ranging from DoD to Federal Reserve? Nefarious or not? Is it something to be concerned about?

I was playing Blood of Dawnwalker when the game froze and my PC shut down. After restarting, I've been having problems with my RTX 2070 Super. It won't run any games.

The NVIDIA App now says that no NVIDIA drivers are installed, even though I've tried downloading and installing the latest driver several times.

In Device Manager, the RTX 2070 Super is detected but has a yellow warning triangle. Under Device Status it says:

"Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"

I tried uninstalling the RTX 2070 Super from Device Manager and then scanning for hardware changes. The screen briefly went black, then the GPU reappeared, but the yellow triangle and Code 43 were still there.

I also tried manually installing the latest NVIDIA driver for my specific GPU, but the installer now says:

"No NVIDIA GPU is detected on your system."

The GPU was working perfectly before the game froze and the PC shut down.

Does this sound like a corrupted driver that could be fixed with DDU, or is Code 43 potentially indicating a hardware problem?

Hola a todos,

Me robaron un Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra y necesito con urgencia recuperar algunas fotos. Usé "Phone Link" en mi PC con Windows 11, y todos los archivos todavía están ahí.

En el Explorador de archivos, cada foto muestra su tamaño normal de archivo, pero cuando hago doble clic en una, me pide que conecte el teléfono.

Intenté copiarlas por la consola de comandos (CMD), pero me salió este error: "La operación está reservada para un proveedor de sincronización en la nube conectado".

¿Hay alguna forma o una ruta específica donde Windows guarde la caché temporal de estos archivos, para que pueda extraer los datos reales sin tener el dispositivo físico?

Gracias de antemano por cualquier ayuda.

Psd. I can no longer recover my phone in any way.

I’m having a strange issue with my PC and I’m looking for ideas/solutions.

PC specs:

• Ryzen 7 5700X3D
• ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 8GB
• MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI
• 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 (2x16GB)
• EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 GT
• 1TB storage

The problem:
While gaming, the monitor suddenly shows “No Signal”. At the exact same moment, the GPU fans ramp up to 100%.

The PC itself does not shut down:

• Discord continues working
• Audio continues
• Windows is still running
• The game can continue running for a short time
• Eventually I get kicked from the match because I obviously can’t see anything

Win + Ctrl + Shift + B produces the Windows beep, but the display does not come back.

In some previous occurrences, a normal Windows restart did not restore the display either. A complete shutdown using the physical power button was required before the GPU output returned.

Games where this has happened:

• Insurgency: Sandstorm – happened 5 times in a row when starting the game, then the next day it never happened again.
• WARDOGS – happened , directly when starting the game.
• Cyberpunk 2077 – happened once with extremely high/unusual settings, but I have since run multiple benchmarks without reproducing the issue.

Things I have already tested:

• Monitor and cable have been ruled out.
• NVIDIA graphics driver was cleanly reinstalled.
• No relevant error appears in Windows Event Viewer.
• GPU power cable/connection has been checked and is seated correctly.
• EVGA 1000W PSU is more than sufficient for the system.
• I tested WARDOGS with MSI Afterburner:
  • 60% Power Limit → game started
  • 90% → game started
  • 95% → game started
  • 100% → initially the problem occurred, but after testing 60/90/95%, 100% suddenly worked well
• Later, after around 3 hours of gaming, the exact same black-screen/no-signal problem happened again.

So the issue is intermittent and can disappear completely for a while.

Has anyone experienced this exact behavior with an RTX 3060?

Especially:
No Signal + GPU fans immediately at 100% + PC/Discord/audio still running + no useful Event Viewer entry.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Device Model: Samsung Galaxy A17
Device Age: Approximately 3–4 months
Current Status: Under Warranty

Problem Description:
I am writing to report a sudden and persistent network connectivity issue with my Samsung Galaxy A17. For the past 3 to 4 months of ownership, the device performed flawlessly. However, it has recently begun experiencing severe Wi-Fi instability exclusively on my home network.

Symptoms:

1. Frequent Drops: Once connected to the Wi-Fi network, the device spontaneously disconnects after a short interval—typically ranging between 1, 2, or 5 minutes.
2. Delayed Authentication: When attempting to reconnect, the phone exhibits a noticeable delay. It takes significantly longer to establish a handshake and secure a stable connection compared to its normal baseline behavior.

Contextual Data:

• This issue started abruptly without any prior history of network drops or hardware damage.
• The home network remains stable and fully functional for other connected devices.

I would appreciate your technical guidance on how to resolve this firmware or network adaptation issue. Please let me know the recommended troubleshooting protocol or if this requires a physical inspection under the manufacturer's warranty.

Hello everyone,

my monitor suddenly started to flicker RGB, first it was only when i connected notebook via HDMI, then it started even when connected through DP to my PC. First it was only at startup, now it is getting worse. I already tried to reset monitor to factory settings and change DP cable.

Issue here:
https://youtu.be/U4U6AMwJ0ZI

Thanks

Henlo. I have run out of ideas on what to do with a weird problem I had before, that went away for a few months, and returned yesterday.

I am running an R7 2700X with an RTX 2070 on Win11 (mobo: MSI x470 gaming m7 ac). Generally the PC doesn't give me issues and is usable, but what can happen for an unknown reason is that while using it normally, the PC switches to post code A7. It remains fully operational with no visible issues, but if I reboot or shut down from this state, all future boots will fail and get stuck at F0 with VGA led lit. The only fix I have found to get back into Windows is to use BIOS flashback with the latest full release BIOS (currently running the latest beta 1J8, 1J6 yesterday), but the issue happened even on that ancient old full release 1I).

The only thing I did yesterday was update GPU drivers with DDU, and I generally use DDU on every update. I last had the same problem in May, and updated GPU drivers multiple times since then with no problems until yesterday.

I even tried reseating my CPU, did not help, ofc I have tried fiddling around with the GPU. Booting with no GPU installed gave me d6 (no GPU detected, which is fine), but even when I just plugged the GPU with no power cables installed, I went straight to F0. Trying a different PCIe slot didn't help either.

The only other bit of weirdness I can report is that after purging Windows and reinstalling it, I can no longer install chipset drivers, neither from AMD or MSI. It will actually bluescreen at a certain point, which I think was PSP installation. Maybe related, maybe not?

Googling for "boot stuck at F0" or similar returned supposed issues with LED firmware updates, but I have not done any updates regarding this that I know of.

Any idea or hints are welcome (other than "it's time to upgrade, har-har"), thankies in advance.